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Stupid Question about the M4


notrabmas
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Lift the elevator and place your thumb on the inside of the shell stop. This is the part that actually holds the rounds in the magazine. Press the front of the shell stop inward. You may also need to press the shell into he mag tube to relieve tension. As the shell stop pushes in, the shell will eject, pushing your thumb out of the receiver and the round will fall into the palm of your hand. On some weapons, this is harder to do than on others.

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Lift the elevator and place your thumb on the inside of the shell stop. This is the part that actually holds the rounds in the magazine. Press the front of the shell stop inward. You may also need to press the shell into he mag tube to relieve tension. As the shell stop pushes in, the shell will eject, pushing your thumb out of the receiver and the round will fall into the palm of your hand. On some weapons, this is harder to do than on others.

 

This^ is the recommended method to unload the weapon.

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Huh, that makes sense. One more question that's unrelated, you can't pull back the bolt if the safety is on, right?

 

Lift the elevator and place your thumb on the inside of the shell stop. This is the part that actually holds the rounds in the magazine. Press the front of the shell stop inward. You may also need to press the shell into he mag tube to relieve tension. As the shell stop pushes in, the shell will eject, pushing your thumb out of the receiver and the round will fall into the palm of your hand. On some weapons, this is harder to do than on others.
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You sure you're not comparing when the hammer is cocked vs. hammer forward? The safety should have no effect on the bolt.

 

If not, your trigger group could use some lubrication. Mainly around the hammer pivot point and on the trigger. Lubricate around the trigger and disconnector too.

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Umm, I guess I'm trying to say when I pull back the bolt to load a shell (the hammer is foreard) and the safety is on, it's slightly stiff when the bolt reaches the hammer. When the safety is off, I can pull the bolt back (with the hammer forward) with no resistance. I just lubricated the gun yesterday too.

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I found out the reason mine is stiff is because when the safety is on, the thing that hold the hammer when it's cocked doesn't allow any movement since the trigger can't be pulled. When the safety is off though, it allows it to move so that the hammer can be cocked. I hope this doesn't mean mine has a problem.

 

Umm, I guess I'm trying to say when I pull back the bolt to load a shell (the hammer is foreard) and the safety is on, it's slightly stiff when the bolt reaches the hammer. When the safety is off, I can pull the bolt back (with the hammer forward) with no resistance. I just lubricated the gun yesterday too.
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Try creating this problem with the trigger group pulled out of the weapon. Cock the hammer with your thumb in safe and fire. Try pulling the trigger in fire, pull and hold the trigger to the rear, and recock the hammer. This will engage the disconnector until you release the trigger.

 

If the disconnector is what is causing the hang up, try some oil on it. Sometimes a new gun just needs broken in. I recently worked on a new 11707 that was really stiff in the trigger group area even after I swapped the fire control out for a FFT set. After oiling and working the action for a while, it smoothed out significantly.

 

Oh yeah, don't let the hammer drop when the trigger group is out of the receiver. You can hold the hammer with your thumb to allow it to move forward.

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I found out about it when I took the trigger group out. That makes a lot of sense on why it is stiff; the gun is pretty much brand new and has had about 15 rounds through it. Besides oil, will shooting the gun loosen up the disconnector? What about cocking the bolt back while the safety is on to loosen it up?

 

Try creating this problem with the trigger group pulled out of the weapon. Cock the hammer with your thumb in safe and fire. Try pulling the trigger in fire, pull and hold the trigger to the rear, and recock the hammer. This will engage the disconnector until you release the trigger.

 

If the disconnector is what is causing the hang up, try some oil on it. Sometimes a new gun just needs broken in. I recently worked on a new 11707 that was really stiff in the trigger group area even after I swapped the fire control out for a FFT set. After oiling and working the action for a while, it smoothed out significantly.

 

Oh yeah, don't let the hammer drop when the trigger group is out of the receiver. You can hold the hammer with your thumb to allow it to move forward.

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Yes, it will break in with use. Lubricant helps a lot.

 

014-1.jpg

 

in this shot, it shows the hammer hook engaged on the trigger sear. To the left is the disconnector. When the hammer is cocked, and the trigger is held to the rear, the hammer hook is forced against the disconnector until the spring loaded disconnector pushes to the rear and captures the hammer hook. The hammer remains on the disconnector until he trigger is released. You'll hear an audible click when it disengages the disconnector and engages the trigger sear.

 

Apply oil on the disconnector where the hammer hook makes contact.

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So should I put lube just there? Or all over it?

 

Yes, it will break in with use. Lubricant helps a lot.

 

014-1.jpg

 

in this shot, it shows the hammer hook engaged on the trigger sear. To the left is the disconnector. When the hammer is cocked, and the trigger is held to the rear, the hammer hook is forced against the disconnector until the spring loaded disconnector pushes to the rear and captures the hammer hook. The hammer remains on the disconnector until he trigger is released. You'll hear an audible click when it disengages the disconnector and engages the trigger sear.

 

Apply oil on the disconnector where the hammer hook makes contact.

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Lube both hammer hooks, and the part of the hammer that presses against the disconnector. Make sure the plunger behind the disconnector is also lubed. Some lube along the front of the hammer where the bolt carrier makes contact is a good idea.

 

Grease stays better than regular oil for these sear contact points.

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