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New Product Announcement - Benelli M4 Mount from AVATactical.com - Discount Available

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Bottom line is, this is the best weapon light mounting setup out there for the Benelli M4. This design could probably adapted to other platforms successfully and provide a superior product than what is currently out there. The main benefits are the tool free disassembly of the M4 is retained. The mount is fixed to the barrel, so any laser type devices installed should hold a zero during maintenance.

 

The mount itself is extremely lightweight. Think around two ounces for the mount, plus the weight of your light. This eliminates all the bulky rail options that are prevalent.

 

The unit itself is beautifully machined. Attention to detail is obvious. The way the unit blends into the curves of the M4 are obvious and shows a fluid design intent by its creator. The use of torx T15 fasteners is a nice touch. The added strength of the fasteners is apparent. The install is very straight forward and simple. There are only two different types of fasteners. All use the T15 torx bit. All have the same 0.6 metric thread pitch. I'll post some pictures to go along with the units installation below.

 

It should also be mentioned that the unit is reversible. If you're a lefty, just flip it and you can mount the light or rail side on whichever side you like. Yes, a Surefire X300 Ultra will fit on the railed section. So if you're right handed, and want a Surefire X200/X300/X300 Ultra/X400/X400 Ultra mounted to the left side, it is an option. You also have the option of using a XT07 tape switch if you so choose. I tried it here:

DSC00033_zps1d53dfb8.jpg

 

Light options should be cleared up in the near future. Sadly you can't use a Surefire Scout, but as AVA Tactical mentioned, there were complications. Sourcing an E body light and using the Surefire M600C head is an option. I'm using it myself along with a different momentary activation button.

 

 

 

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Here you can see the two different sizes of fasteners. The smaller 0.330" long T15 Torx fasteners hold the upper portion of the flashlight ring to the body of the mount.

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DSC00014_zps19b7b51a.jpg

These are quality fasteners. They don't strip out easily. 20 INCH Pounds has been specified.

 

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I still recommend Locktite 242 for the fasteners to prevent loosening.

Edited by StrangerDanger

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I like overkill, so I treat all my fasteners and threads with Locktite 7471 Primer.

DSC00019_zps12204b14.jpg

 

Install the flash light first before mounting the unit to the barrel. That way if you screw up putting the fasteners where they go, there is no risk of protruding thru the body of the mount and marring your finish. I would also recommend just starting the fasteners, then tighten them as you would the lug nuts on your car. These type of ring clamps bend and conform to the fasteners as you tighten them and squeeze the flashlight's tail cap assembly. So what I do is start all the fasteners, then remove one at a time and apply Locktite primer and 242. Then snug them down. Tighten the fasteners to 20 INCH Pounds.

 

DSC00022_zps6e5ec232.jpg

Here, the right side of the mount is acting as a cradle around the barrel assembly. The barrel is just resting in it's approximate mounting position.

Edited by StrangerDanger

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DSC00024_zps0821eb73.jpg

Make certain that none of your fasteners are protruding from the threading on the inner side of the light mount side.

 

DSC00026_zpsa3c06398.jpg

 

The left side of the mount and light are then set over the barrel assembly. Note that no fasteners are present that hold the two halves of the mount together.

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DSC00032_zps523e3d38.jpg

 

Here, all four bracket mounting fasteners are installed. Tighten them like you would the lug nuts on your car as well. Locktite is recommended. All four of these fasteners should be the longer 0.455" units.

 

At this point, you're done. Reassemble and function test. I'm a big fan of the front limited rotation QD sling mount. You can still use your existing sling ring if you like. With my collapsible stock, I opted for a IWC MOE stock QD Sling mount and fed it through the existing sling loop mount. I mount the mount on the right side of the weapon so that the sling doesn't interfere with me shouldering the weapon.

DSC00038_zpsf7d0c5a2.jpg

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Amazing pictures, instruction, etc. StrangerDanger has been very helpful throughout this providing invaluable feedback. Cannot overstate my gratitude.

 

When I shipped Mr. Danger his production unit, the very first one in the mail - in fact I ran to the post office as soon as I got the railed part back from the Laser Etchers - I did not have the instructions ready yet so I sent them without.

 

Instructions are up on the AVATactical.com website now in PDF format - Link here:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxhdmF0YWN0aWNhbGNvbXxneDozYWUwY2IxOTdlNjI5YmRh

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Torque Spec is 20 inch pounds. Thread lock is a requirement.

 

I did torque one out, but my inch pounds torque unit only goes up to 60 inch pounds and that was absolutely no issue at all. I am going to try a foot pounds wrench in the coming days and will report back where the threshold is.

 

One other trick I mention in the instructions is to torque the two shorter screws down before you put your flashlight on. The reason I do this is because they are shorter screws and I like to have as much thread contact as possible. The other two screws are much longer and will always have more thread contact than the shorter ones.

Edited by AVATactical.com

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Further, you want to use a primer like SD, or you want to use Loctite 243. Anodized aluminum is not very reactive, and Loctite 242 without a primer will not do nearly so well. 20 inch-pounds, on a screw with a finer pitched thread, will be roundly 1.5 "hours" on a clock face of a turn. I would hand-tighten and then go 1.5 "hours" using the long handle for leverage...but not more.

 

Of course, AVA can fine-tune that recommendation, based on thread-pitch used.

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If I still had a Surefire M80, I'd put it on a ban saw. If you have a requisite for a weapon light, this is the way to go. You're not left making a Sophie's Choice on function. I'll take better outdoor pictures when I have a chance.

 

Buy one. You won't be sorry.

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AVA Tactical, Would you measure your mount to check if a Surefire P3X Fury with a bezel dia. 1.37" will fit. I have a big problem with feral hogs destroying my property here in Central Florida. I believe this combo (1000 lumen) would make my life a lot easier. Thanks.

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AVA Tactical, Would you measure your mount to check if a Surefire P3X Fury with a bezel dia. 1.37" will fit. I have a big problem with feral hogs destroying my property here in Central Florida. I believe this combo (1000 lumen) would make my life a lot easier. Thanks.

 

Looking at the setup, the light would have to be removed from the mount every time the batteries are changed. This makes the E-series setup much more appealing to me, although you may not care, as the E-series batteries are changed via removing the head. The 500 lumen TIR optics in the E-series will also put out serious light. The P3X is only 1000 lumens for a few seconds, and then nose-dives HARD over about 3 minutes to the 6-700 lumen mark. Just an FYI of full disclosure in case that matters to you before you spend the coin on that light.

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P3X / P2X dimensions appear to work in CAD. I have a few that have ordered already going to try this the first thing when they get it. The bezel on the P2X/P3X has flats on it, and they may need to be indexed to barrel for proper clearance. I hope to have more definitive information soon.

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Further, you want to use a primer like SD, or you want to use Loctite 243. Anodized aluminum is not very reactive, and Loctite 242 without a primer will not do nearly so well. 20 inch-pounds, on a screw with a finer pitched thread, will be roundly 1.5 "hours" on a clock face of a turn. I would hand-tighten and then go 1.5 "hours" using the long handle for leverage...but not more.

 

Of course, AVA can fine-tune that recommendation, based on thread-pitch used.

 

Really good information. Thank You.

 

All threaded as 8-40 so a bit finer thread than standard threading. All fasteners are oxide blackened steel. I am not sure if that provides the proper ionization for the thread lock process or not. All input welcome.

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Really good information. Thank You.

 

All threaded as 8-40 so a bit finer thread than standard threading. All fasteners are oxide blackened steel. I am not sure if that provides the proper ionization for the thread lock process or not. All input welcome.

 

The loctite will bond well to the oxided steel, if it is properly cleaned first. Very good bond. The IIIA anodizing, not really. It is very non-reactive. What will occur is the loctite will harden normally, and bond very well to the fasteners, but for a weak bond to the aluminum.

 

Loctite 243, or a primer, is needed for it to adhere properly to the anodized aluminum. I went through this with a Ti magazine tube. It bonded VERY POORLY with the Ti (very VERY non-reactive), and only bonded to the aluminum of my upper very slightly, in areas that had been nicked, etc. or were rough and afforded a physical purchase (vs. chemical).

 

This can be seen when removing the OEM magazine tube from the M1014/M4. Most, if not all, of the factory loctite type adhesive is bonded to the tube itself, and much less, much weaker, to the aluminum receiver. This is my experience with almost half a dozen of them, anyway.

 

I am not 100% sure what amount of rotation equates to 20 inch-pounds with your thread pitch, but between 1 and 2 "hours" should be pretty close. Close enough to work, if correct thread-locker is used, and not enough to strip anything. I tend to tighten things "by feel", and will likely exceed this spec on my own, personally, by a small margin.

 

Please see this resource for more information on Loctite and material compatibility: http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/using-a-loctite-threadlocker-14064.htm

 

Right now, I am busy trying to figure out what I want to put in that mount an "lego" it together.

Edited by Unobtanium

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I just ordered one for my 14"...gunna run a SF P2X Fury with the single mode head (i.e.the Pat Rogers version). Will post pics ASAP, but will be a while as my 14" is still in "NFA jail".

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