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Benelli factory thread locking


Vertigofirearms

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Good info to have. Thanks. Makes sense since it's an Italian company. All of the units I've disassembled have also come with the light green threadlocker on the receiver extension. I recall seeing a redish colored threadlocker on a newer production 11707's magazine tube. The adhesion of the threadlocker to the steel magazine tube or the stainless steel receiver extension has been much better than to the anodized aluminum receiver. In all cases, none of the threadlocker was bonded to the receiver. The receiver extension and magazine tube had to be chipped away and was extremely difficult to remove.

 

You can see the threadlocker bonded to the threads on the bottom receiver extension.

RecoilTube.jpg

 

On the magazine tube.

006-1.jpg

 

The receiver extension certainly is much harder to remove than the magazine tubes. Seems I got lucky with removal of my receiver extension with a heat gun years ago. All others I've done have required a MAPP torch. On one newer production 11707, I cooked the locknut for literally two hours with my 1000 watt heatgun, and it wouldn't budge.

 

The MAPP torch doesn't screw around and gets it done quick with no discoloring of the black Benelli's. I'd be concerned about using the MAPP torch on one of the water screen transferred finishes.

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From Loxeals website regarding 83-55:

 

"High strength anaerobic adhesive for locking and sealing of studs, nuts, bolts and threaded fasteners not requiring dismantling. It can be used on all metals either on free or forced matings. It provides high resistance to heat, corrosion, vibrations, water, gases, oils and many chemicals."

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And here is my evidence; (you can clearly see them install it on a magazine tube through rigorous twisting)

 

http://youtu.be/XCj0PCGGxtA?t=54s

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2375[/ATTACH]

 

EDIT: Ignore the fact that the video is rather old. It is highly unlikely that Benelli would have switched to a different brand because they prefer Domestic resources.

Edited by Vertigofirearms
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When installing my FFT replacement magazine tube, should I also use a thread locker? If so, which one do you guys recommend and how much of it should be used? Lastly, what torque specs is recommended (I have a torque wrench handy)? Thanks in advance, and I apologize if this is a thread hijack in any way but it looks like many of you would be able to answer this given the rest of the thread's contents.

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should I also use a thread locker?

 

I have never used threadlocker on numerous shotgun tubes, Benelli and otherwise. I oil mine. Never had one back out.

 

Having said that it is not a bad idea to use threadlocker on your new tube, particularly if you do not plan on removing it. I recommend common Blue (medium) or even Purple (low). Do not use Red threadlocker unless you want to pull out your heat gun all over again.

 

No need to worry about torque specs. These tubes have a large shoulder; simply turn until said shoulder is flush against the receiver.

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Locktite 243 is the recommended locktite for the magazine tube. You should also use the Locktite primer before the application. I personally do not locktite the magazine tube in place. There is little chance of the tube backing out when the magazine cap is in place. Disassembly of the weapon for cleaning is easier when you can remove the magazine tube.

 

I'm not sure of a torque spec. It would be difficult to attach a torque wrench to the magazine tube anyway. I tighten it by hand as hard I can with both hands. Never had an issue.

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I have never used threadlocker on numerous shotgun tubes, Benelli and otherwise. I oil mine. Never had one back out.

 

Having said that it is not a bad idea to use threadlocker on your new tube, particularly if you do not plan on removing it. I recommend common Blue (medium) or even Purple (low). Do not use Red threadlocker unless you want to pull out your heat gun all over again.

 

No need to worry about torque specs. These tubes have a large shoulder; simply turn until said shoulder is flush against the receiver.

 

Had one back off when using nothing, and when using 242. I used 243, which formed a MUCH better bond, and that stopped it. Loctite correctly.

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