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Jmoser

Benelli Trigger work done :)

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Last night I worked on my 3 Benellis: SBE1, Montefeltro, and M2.

 

I put in Wolff reduced power hammer springs and carefully honed the hammer hook with a fine diamond file.

 

On all 3 guns I was able to get pull in the 4 lb range using a spring trigger scale.

 

The geometry of the hammer makes it very difficult to work on; my small flat diamond file was the only option [~1/4" wide; ~1 mm thick.]

 

The M2 was NIB and it was easy to see where the high spots were polished off inside the hook engagement area.

 

Next up was the SBE; this clearly already had a beveled hammer surface from the factory [just the edge was angled down slightly.]

 

After seeing the SBE hammer I worked a similar small angle on the Montefeltro hammer with good results.

 

[i must say here that I have a lot of experience working on a lot of different gun actions so this is not recommended for first timers.]

 

I also applied some graphite GunSlick lube to the engagement surfaces after reassembly.

 

NOTE: I noticed a BIG difference in pull weight depending on location and angle of the scale arm; I tried to get average readings dead center and straight back on the trigger.

 

The Benelli mechanism is never going to give a crisp clean break due to the trigger / sear / hammer linkages but its a shotgun not a rifle and I am very happy with the feel of these now.

 

Should just get better with a lot of use as well !

 

Hope this helps some of you looking for better triggers.

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My concern about polishing sears is the chance that the user is removing the hardened surface. This can expose softer metal that may deform easily and lead to potentially unsafe weapons. Not saying this will be the case for you, just something people should be aware of before they begin modifying parts.

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My concern about polishing sears is the chance that the user is removing the hardened surface. This can expose softer metal that may deform easily and lead to potentially unsafe weapons. Not saying this will be the case for you, just something people should be aware of before they begin modifying parts.

This is why you don't file on ar fcgs.

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This is why you buy Geissele triggers.....perfection

 

No Geissele trigger setup available for the Benelli, just the hammer.

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No more material was removed than you would on a 1911 sear but yes - not a job for rookies as I noted in my original post.

 

Hardest part is having a tool that fits inside the hammer hook. Nonetheless an easy and very worthwhile mod for those in-the-know.

 

As for 'not a rifle' this sure does help with accurate slug and longer range buckshot shooting.

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No more material was removed than you would on a 1911 sear but yes - not a job for rookies as I noted in my original post.

 

Hardest part is having a tool that fits inside the hammer hook. Nonetheless an easy and very worthwhile mod for those in-the-know.

 

As for 'not a rifle' this sure does help with accurate slug and longer range buckshot shooting.

 

I honestly don't think it matters except regarding "feel" and personal pride. What helps the most with things like shotguns is controlling recoil. Consider how important follow-through is with birdshot. It is leaving the barrel at the same velocity as a slug. Follow-through is very important. By lightening the springs, you have created the potential for misfire/failure to fire. This is a MUCH MORE LIKELY scenario than making a meaningful difference in precision with what is at best a 2-4MOA weapon (the best I have pulled out of my M4s is around 2MOA, give or take, out to 50 yards.)

 

Even the front sight makes precision a moot point. Needs optics.

 

Honestly, I just don't see a functional advantage to your modifications, while I do see functional disadvantages, even if you did not alter geometry or hardness of the hammer and trigger surfaces.

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This is why you buy Geissele triggers.....perfection

 

I was referencing the post above with respect to AR triggers....forgot to Quote....

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