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StrangerDanger

Benelli M4 - Tango Arms Stippling Work

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I sent in some Freedom Fighter Tactical OEM reproduction handguards to Tango Arms for stippling work. OEM ones can also be done, but I wanted the US made part. I put one of the sets on my burnt bronze Benelli M4 that has 15,000 rounds through it.

 

https://www.tangoarms.com/products/benelli-m4-stippling

 

I marked the handguards discreetly to ensure that the actual handguards sent in were the ones coming back. The turn around time was amazing at about ten days with cross country shipping via USPS Priority mail.

 

The handguards are aggressive. Like skateboard tape without the abrasive sand media coming off on your hands. If you want a better purchase on the handguard, this will certainly do it. If you have soft hands, you probably aren't going to like them.

 

Cosmetically, the stippling is done very well. Here are a few pictures to give you a better sense of what you'll get back.

 

Ng5AWq4.jpg

Edited by StrangerDanger

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Beautiful gun! I'm another very satisfied customer of Tango Arms. Is that one of your modified tailcaps? It looks slightly different than a Surfire Scout cap.

 

Also a fan of the tiny Trijicon as well. Superb job! But you've got the light mounted on the wrong side!:D

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Thanks. I can’t remember if it was a cap from an Outdoorsman or if it was one I machined from a Scout Light. I like mine better than the Old Outdoorsman since there is more of a bevel on the cap. I’d love to have the light mounted on the right, but I like the activation button ahead of my support hand thumb.

 

If I could build a solid tape switch embedded in to the forearm, I’d probably swap it. I don’t care for the Surefire pads. The newer scout Light pad is better than the old inner tube feeling ones. I tried to adapt a TNVC Taps pad in to the grip, but they have too much going on. The cheaper non programmable pad was useless. I never bothered to buy the expensive one to try.

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So I ordered a TNVC Taps Pro pad to give the bedded switch a try. Sadly it’s back ordered for eight weeks. Lame.

 

Rough concept goal is to cut a recess in to the forearm in to the smooth area of the forearm where my thumb instinctively rests. Route the wire through the inside of the handguard over to the right side. Notch the handguard to allow the wire to exit next to the barrel and connect with the Surefire in the Ava Tactical mount. Excess wire will then be pushed inside the handguard. I want to use the mLOK mount and notch the back side of the handguards to give the mount a purchase.

 

There are a few things to try with the switch. I want to see if I can make it work without the base plate. Just screw it in to the handguard itself. Might chop the laser wire off and program the switch to be momentnary and constant on.

 

I’ll drop a mLOK QD sling mount on to the Ava Tactical mLOK Mount to keep my sling option working.

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Sounds good in theory but I'm not so sure of the efficacy of mounting one of those units to the OEM hand guards. The length of the switch is about exactly the length of the flats on the guards and somewhat wider than the flats are at the top of the ribs.

 

Those things are a lot bulkier than I'd like them to be. Guess it doesn't matter when you're mounting on a railed/slotted Pringles can.:D

 

So the switch would fit lengthwise taking up all the length of the flat space, and the width of it being a little wider than the flat, would cheat over the barrel and/or down over the ribbed portion of the guard, depending where you attached it on the flat- high, low, or right in the middle?

 

Or, you're thinking of using the MLOK slot on the AVA mount for a portion of the switch and attaching a portion of it to the guard?

 

I just picked mine up and put my support hand on the fore end and used my strong hand on the PG and just rolled the gun over and back in my support hand and it's when you realize just how small the hand guards are, not much room for anything if you want to be able to maneuver your hand around on them.

 

I dunno, maybe I'm way off base and my feeble brain can't comprehend. Wouldn't be the first time.:D If anyone can figure out a way to make it work though, it's you.

Edited by Evolution

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very awesome set up,I haven't forgot about the telescopic stock limb saver pad set up you offer,gotta get one.

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The Limbsaver is a model 10111. It isn’t a direct fit. You’ll need a Noveske adapter plate. To make the collapsible stock functional in the fully collapsed position, you’ll need to modify the pad and the adapter plate. You’ll need to drill a hole in to the buttpad where the receiver extension passes through the stock and into the pad. If I recall it’s like a 3/4” or 7/8” hole. The adapter plate needs a section cut out of it to permit the receiver extension to pass through as well. I just hacksaw the section out and shape the pieces on the grinder. Each piece is held in place by one screw. When you screw the stock in to place, it bridges the parts and keeps them solidly together.

 

Youll need to source some 8mm long screws for the Noveske adapter. I get them from my local hardware store. The screws supplied will fit for the buttpad to screw in to the adapter plates.

 

You can can count on a realistic reduction in perceived recoil of about 40%. Harder the load, the better it performs. No issues with lighter loads either.

 

You may may be right about the Taps switch. It is rather big and thick. I don’t have an issue with where the buttons would be. The momentary button would be beneath my thumb, and the secondary button would be set to a constant on toggle within reach of my thumb. The issue is attaching it in a functional manner. You can’t cut the handguard too deep since the piston housing is there.

 

Mid I can get by without using their bottom plate, my job will be much easier. If mounting to that Strike rail, the mLOK would fit well. I’m just not sure if I can tolerate all that cheese grater machining.

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You may may be right about the Taps switch. It is rather big and thick. I don’t have an issue with where the buttons would be. The momentary button would be beneath my thumb, and the secondary button would be set to a constant on toggle within reach of my thumb. The issue is attaching it in a functional manner. You can’t cut the handguard too deep since the piston housing is there.

 

Mid I can get by without using their bottom plate, my job will be much easier. If mounting to that Strike rail, the mLOK would fit well. I’m just not sure if I can tolerate all that cheese grater machining.

 

If you were going to delete the laser wire anyway, why not just use the Surefire remote switch, it's much smaller and attaches with velcro. I know it's not programmable but, do you really need that?

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The Surefire pressure switches aren’t that great. There are lots of dead spots in the switches. The newer ones aren’t as bad, but the SR07 and older style that look like rubber inner tube are unusable in my opinion. The Taps units are top shelf for tactile response.

 

I tried using one one of the standard Taps earlier this year. The lack of programming meant you couldn’t dedicate specific buttons to a task. It was like button one does momentary output to lead 1 and button 2 does momentary output to lead 2.

 

With the pro model, you can set the switches to whatever lead or both leads. Then toggle if the button is momentary or constant on.

 

If I decide I can’t mount the switch block on the Benelli, I’ll throw it on my AR on the key of rail and move my light to the right side.

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Ok, I wasn't aware of the issue with the SF remotes. I'm with you on the insistence of top quality. I did watch the TNVC video showing their product at the shot show from this year, and yeah they are nice appear high quality, too bad they are not about half the size, huh?:)

 

Well, I guess the quest continues for the perfect replacement hand guards for the M4.

 

I'd love to see one that maintained as close as possible, the same profile and size, circumference-wise, as the OEM with MLOK slots running along only at the top portion above the ribs.

 

That might provoke even me to get something like that.:D Meanwhile, I'm saving my pennies for Trij. RMR.

Edited by Evolution

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It's really surprising that there aren't more pressure switch options that are of high quality. Or, better yet a revison from Surefire. The design of their plug for the tape switches isn't the best either. Example, I'd make it so that the end use could install a screw locking the plug in to the cap to prevent it being ripped out. I'd also make it angled inward towards the weapon. The pad itself needs work.

 

I did make a grip activated weapon light for the Benelli M4 on the pistol grip. I had a 40" Surefire tape switch and I removed the rubberized grip and cut a channel in to the grip for the tape switch to seat. The wire then loomed inside the stock and came out near the top and routed forward along the top rail to the weapon light. I used a SideArmor top rail at the time which allowed for routing the cable easily.

 

The rubberized grip then slid over the grip with the activation pad in it. So you had momentary control over the weapon light from the grip kind of like a set of CTC laser grips. It was okay, but it was prone to accidental light discharges when slung.

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It's really surprising that there aren't more pressure switch options that are of high quality. Or, better yet a revison from Surefire. The design of their plug for the tape switches isn't the best either. Example, I'd make it so that the end use could install a screw locking the plug in to the cap to prevent it being ripped out. I'd also make it angled inward towards the weapon. The pad itself needs work.

 

I did make a grip activated weapon light for the Benelli M4 on the pistol grip. I had a 40" Surefire tape switch and I removed the rubberized grip and cut a channel in to the grip for the tape switch to seat. The wire then loomed inside the stock and came out near the top and routed forward along the top rail to the weapon light. I used a SideArmor top rail at the time which allowed for routing the cable easily.

 

The rubberized grip then slid over the grip with the activation pad in it. So you had momentary control over the weapon light from the grip kind of like a set of CTC laser grips. It was okay, but it was prone to accidental light discharges when slung.

 

 

I've got some Elzetta lights, have you tried any of them?

 

https://www.elzetta.com/product/tape-switch-5/

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The stippling looks great. I'm going to have to try that. Even with my sissy hands.

 

Sad thing is, before I even scrolled down, I knew they were TTI from the mismatch fit... I am just neurotic about it though and have been dealing with collector MGs too long.. starting to care more about fitment and finish.. hahhha

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The stippling looks great. I'm going to have to try that. Even with my sissy hands.

 

Sad thing is, before I even scrolled down, I knew they were TTI from the mismatch fit... I am just neurotic about it though and have been dealing with collector MGs too long.. starting to care more about fitment and finish.. hahhha

 

They're FFT.....

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