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Benelli M4 - Building a H2O


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Beautiful.   Definitely an Inspiration piece. Just picked up an H20. I didnt want to bother asking for a letter from my chief (saving that silver bullet for something crazy) so I just got the standard h20 with the 7round tube and pistol grip. May explore getting the stock later on.  You've built a work of art.

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Got another one of these builds finally coming back from Wright Armory. Some bad, they seriously increased their pricing without any forewarning. This current M4 racked up 2200 dollars in costs with t

The forum has been really slow lately, so I figured I'd try to add some content again.   Recently I was contacted by a client to put together the ultimate Benelli M4 with a focus on reliabil

Thanks! Did you get the Np3 plated H2O or the Cerakoted one?

The only way this one would be better is if it were an entry gun platform. And maybe that Briley rail setup I’m working on. 
 

The owner got this shotgun back on Friday or Saturday - he seemed to be quite happy, and he hasn’t even shot it yet!

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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:

Thanks! Did you get the Np3 plated H2O or the Cerakoted one?

The only way this one would be better is if it were an entry gun platform. And maybe that Briley rail setup I’m working on. 
 

The owner got this shotgun back on Friday or Saturday - he seemed to be quite happy, and he hasn’t even shot it yet!

Price tag on the NP3 was much higher than i wanted to fork out so I went with the cerakoted model.   IIRC NP3 models are getting pretty scarce too right?

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  • 2 weeks later...

It was mainly for the 922 compliance since the parts count has been left up to interpretation. So having more than necessary is better than right at the line. I hand filed the fitment so they seat well. Nothing can be done about that weird offset between the halves though. 

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On 8/14/2019 at 2:31 AM, StrangerDanger said:

Got a bunch done today. Broke down the collapsible stock for plating.

 

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The button spring is in the bag. Those springs are coated in grease.

 

SD, did you send in all the metal stock parts?  I would imagine not the spring but pins, tiny washers etc?  I recall you saying that you had to source different size screws for the but pad.

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15 hours ago, Milspec said:

 

SD, did you send in all the metal stock parts?  I would imagine not the spring but pins, tiny washers etc?  I recall you saying that you had to source different size screws for the but pad.

Correct, even the washers. Everything was sent except the spring, buttpad, cheek pad and rubber grip. The longer screws M4 .7 thread pitch x 8mm for the Limbsaver 10403 were sent. I even knocked out the screws from the OEM buttpad. 


 

The IWC QD Mount which isn’t shown was also done. 

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1 hour ago, Milspec said:

Thanks SD.  How did you drive that "center" pin out of the stock.  I'm assuming it retains the button and spring.  Does the hole go clear through to the other side?

Yes it does. I use a transfer punch to tap it out due to its length. Most punches aren't long enough.

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On 5/26/2020 at 3:48 PM, StrangerDanger said:

The longer screws M4 .7 thread pitch x 8mm for the Limbsaver 10403 were sent.

 

SD, just to clarify in a previous post I thing you mentioned 16mm.  It seems 8mm would be a little small.

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I know they are getting rare, but would it have been better to start with a 11711 model. Don't get me wrong, I am not a fan on cars for instance, when someone buys the very top of the line (SS, Shelby, etc) and then changes it so much they might have been fine to start with base model. I watched a tv show one time where a buy brought in an original Chevelle LS6 454 (fastest factory option if I remember right). He pulled that out to put in either a crate engine or LS engine. But, I digress. You probably already know what they look like since you are a gunsmith, but if you need any pics of the original 11711 let me know. Mine is NIB so don't want to take it apart though.

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The 11711 is getting pretty rare and expensive. They’re good for collectors, but probably not the best choice if you’re a shooter. Back when they were initially released, Benelli didn’t do a good job fitting some of the parts together and caused some function issues. 
 

Plus building your own lets you plate a lot more parts and your accessories than a factory one will. 

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Got another one of these builds finally coming back from Wright Armory. Some bad, they seriously increased their pricing without any forewarning. This current M4 racked up 2200 dollars in costs with them for the plating. It used to be around 1150. They really stick it to you on the chemical stripping fees. I’m going to speak to the owner about the drastic increase to see what the deal is. It’s hard to give customers quotes when the pricing varies so much. 

This H2O will have a Trijicon SRO in place along with a set of actual Trijicon iron sights done up by ToolTech. The sight housing was done in NP3 already. Aftermarket will be a full build with a Carriercomp magazine tube, FFT fire control, elevator, spring kit, DMW oversized safety, TTI stainless bolt release, A&S Engineering frame, GG&G oversized bolt release, IWC light and sling mounts, Surefire M600DF weapon light, Scalarworks Sync top rail, stippled FFT forearm, Limbsaver 10403, BlueForceGear sling.

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Parts finally arrived yesterday. Spent a few hours doing reassembly. Quite a bit of fitting is required to get one of these together after everything has been plated and poor fitting aftermarket components. Such as the FFT handguards must be filed down to get the barrel ring to seat correctly. The FFT hammer had to be ground a bit to make the hammer not hang up on the disconnector. The gas pistons have to be fit. What I do with the pistons is I put the pistons in my drill chuck, then hold a section of 400 grit sandpaper. I then finish it up with some 1000 grit paper. You keep test fitting the piston to the barrel to see when enough material has been removed.

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On 3/27/2020 at 12:47 AM, StrangerDanger said:

Parts finally came back from paint today. So I got the M4 put together and took it out to sight it in on my private range here in the forest. This one is a smooth shooter. I can't tell the difference between buckshot and slugs thru it. I went through nearly a 100 rounds of slugs and buckshot to get everything sighted in and to see how the action was performing. Cleaning it when I got home was quick and easy. Everything wipes off with a rag with very little effort.

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Target set at 40 yards.

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Three shot groups of some cheap slugs.

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3 shot groups continued. Dialing in the optic.

 

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First time M4 & Gun owner. I thought my all black out of ht box M4 was the most beautiful thing I have ever seen but..... My level of standards have increased. 

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On 8/11/2019 at 11:39 AM, Milspec said:

Loading port pics, please!  😁  I've been printing out a couple of your previous ones.  My local smith will do the port modification for me.

He said we could draw up a sketch so he could see what I'm looking for.  I figured I'd print some pics and do one better.

I know he is going to start breaking the edges with a ball ended end mill.  Hopefully, he finishes it up by hand.  They always do pretty good work.

 

Quick question on the forearm stippling.  I have thought of getting this done through TTI or something.

I like the look of the Tango stippling.  I'm confused about the selections on their website.

If you purchase from them (forearm) they offer two stippling options, classic and full.  However, when you supply your own parts it seems you get the default stippling (whatever that may be).  Also, it shows forearm and complete forearm.  Is "forearm" one side and "complete" both sides?

 

Hi StrangerDanger, 

This is Greg over at Tango arms. My apologies for the ridiculously late reply as I am just learning about this forum. 

Currently we have 3 options which will be the same for stipple work and for stipple work + forends. They are the classic, full grip, and full stipple. Each version is for the set of forends. 

The Types of stippling:

Classic - The most common version that follows the shape of the forend.  This looks the best in my opinion. 

Full grip - Is the classic that extends the stippling in the center portion all the way up.  By extending the pattern to the upper half of the forend, it provides for a consistent grip. This is most common with people with bigger hands and those who don't the feeling of a partial stippled and partial smooth grip

Complete - This is the entire forend. Most common for people who training in conditions that may require a modified grip. 

The problem you experienced is due to a website error.  If you or anyone else experiences anything like that in the future.  please do not hesitate to email me at [email protected] 

 

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