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New trigger guard swap info


Sigfla

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How tough is it to swap the parts? My oversized trigger group is subconsciously annoying me but I am scared to invest in a new one bc of the parts swap. I am fairly handy with my guns and do a little home gunsmithing but I am nervous about breaking/losing parts. Are the metal trigger guards easier than the polymer? I read a thread on here about an out of spec one that made me nervous. I would let my local gunsmith do it but it would just take forever and I want my gun. 

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41 minutes ago, Sigfla said:

 I read a thread on here about an out of spec one that made me nervous.

Sigfla -

That might have been me talking about an A&S trigger guard where the hammer bushing was too tight.  I think the anodizing was the culprit that caused the hole to be too small, but A&S waived that off.  Having said that, A&S was very happy to replace the trigger guard and asked if I would send my defective TG back so they could take a look at it.  I have not heard anything back from them but that's okay -- they made it right.  ALSO, I think I'm the only one that has had a problem with their TG; everyone on this forum, including me, like their product.  Just so happened that my experience was the hiccup.

On my OEM TG I had previously swapped out the OEM trigger components with USA made FFT parts for 922r compliance.  Also swapped out the trigger spring to a lighter version.  So, I had experience stripping all the components of the TG.  You Tube was a great tutorial as is Stranger's tutorial http://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/32332-Benelli-M4-Complete-Trigger-Group-Assembly-Guide and Benelliwerks most awesome homemade manual.  It's not hard.  There will be a time when you wish you had 3 hands but it's not difficult.  No springs under great tension or any other parts to go a flying into the land of never to be found.

As I'm sure you know, it's always good to tear things apart to see how they work and to learn your gun.

ATB, Birdog

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I recently replaced the 4 springs in my stock plastic trigger assembly with Wolff from FFT. It wasn't hard at all. Just take your time and pay attention to how things come apart. A small punch, hammer (might not need it) and a pick is all that's needed to disassemble and reassemble the parts to the trigger housing.

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I went ahead and ordered a new guard. I have all the tools necessary to swap out the components. I certainly have the time to do it now anyway. My concern in the old guard was with it being off spec I felt it might cause some unwanted resistance in the action. It’s not bad by any stretch but it’s definitely tight. 

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10 hours ago, Evolution said:

Yeah, what they said.:) Only specialty tool needed is the snap ring pliers. The plastic gunsmith's block is very helpful also. 

The A&S trigger housing or frame (if you prefer) is a very nice part. 

Thanks Evolution... I forgot to mention the snap ring pliers. You do need those for the hammer. I always use gunsmith block, but a couple of blocks of wood could be used instead.

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Honestly, the most difficult part in the trigger pack is that stupid safety design. It easy to take out, but getting it back in is difficult to do without damaging the spring. You have to compress the spring while tapping the pin in place. 
 

What A&S should do is machine a hole in the rear portion of the trigger frame to allow you to insert and compress the spring, then insert a pin or tool to keep the spring compressed while you drive the retention pin in place. Pull out the spring retainer and enjoy. I think I’ll send them an email about it. 
 

The rest of it is pretty easy if you follow my or others’ guides. 

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Thanks Stranger. I read through your tutorial. I am used to working on my CZ's (which are all roll pin) and my 1911's. I'll take on a small project as long as their is a good tutorial or youtube video out there. Doesn't look too bad except for that safety issue. Perhaps I'll get the wife to provide a second pair of hands for that part. Do you think adding a tiny radius to the roll pin might help it float over the spring as its being inserted? Does the pin already have one? 

Edited by Sigfla
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I was just thinking about how the parts in the trigger frame interact with one another and Something came to my mind.

When I was a young kid there was a game/toy called "Mousetrap"   LOL.

Anyone old enough to remember it?

Edited by Evolution
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2 hours ago, Evolution said:

I was just thinking about how the parts in the trigger frame interact with one another and Something came to my mind.

When I was a young kid there was a game/toy called "Mousetrap"   LOL.

Anyone old enough to remember it?

Uh, yeah.  Unfortunately.  ?

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On 4/22/2020 at 11:07 AM, StrangerDanger said:

Honestly, the most difficult part in the trigger pack is that stupid safety design. It easy to take out, but getting it back in is difficult to do without damaging the spring. You have to compress the spring while tapping the pin in place. 
 

What A&S should do is machine a hole in the rear portion of the trigger frame to allow you to insert and compress the spring, then insert a pin or tool to keep the spring compressed while you drive the retention pin in place. Pull out the spring retainer and enjoy. I think I’ll send them an email about it. 
 

The rest of it is pretty easy if you follow my or others’ guides. 

Yeah, and that pin is a stupid tight fit as well.  Great trigger guard/frame though.

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So my new guard came in today. It took me around 30 mins to swap everything over. The hardest part was stripping the factory guard. I had some pins that were tight that were supposed to be loose, etc.. Assembling the new A&S guard was very easy. The safety spring portion took a bit of fiddling but it was not difficult. A good set of roll pin punches are highly recommended as well as a good pair of Snap Ring pliers. I have a good set but couldn't find the correct set of tips so I struggled a tiny bit. Anyway it all went together great and now my guard slides right in and out of the gun no problem. 

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