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Gun won't fire second round


ClackClackBAM

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9 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

I'd modify the polymer housing before changing the hammer geometry. Your local smith would probably be willing to open it up more for you. I'd gladly do it for the cost of return shipping. If you want the A&S, I'd gladly swap the parts for you for the same deal. The A&S is the ideal route to go to be rid of that polymer crap.

That would be awesome!! If you can message me your address I'll get it out to you today. Let's go with modifying the OEM housing for now. If that doesn't work, I'll buy the A&S then have it shipped directly to you.

 

3 hours ago, Steve Rose said:

Are you sure the width of the hammer is the issue? A hammer disconnector hook that is too tall can hold the hammer back like the picture you posted – but you will NOT be able to pull the hammer back up the correct position after cocking the hammer.

If you CAN pull the hammer up into the correct “cocked” position then the “too wide” diagnosis is probably the right one. Coat the hammer with a black or blue Sharpie marker then install it. Functioning the hammer a few cycles will wear the marker color and show you where any contact is occurring.

I"m pretty positive, yes. I replaced the FFT hammer with the factory version but didn't change anything. Once it was put back together I was not able to replicate the problem no matter what I did.

That said, it's still possible the gunsmith I went to didn't install everything correctly. I'm shipping it to Stranger though, so I'm sure that once I get it back, everything will be installed correctly.

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