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Sigfla

Magpul surefire switch mount on forearm

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I did a search but couldn’t find anything. Has anyone tried to screw on a Magpul Surefire switch mount to the stock forearm? I want to use a switch but have no desire to change anything else on the gun. I have already dumped a ton into it and anything that adds $$ or weight is not happening. Any issues I need to be aware of if I try to mount the Magpul panel to the forearm? I figured I would grind the bottom flat and screw it down with the mlok nuts as backers. I have 2 sets of firearms so I could even glue a bit on one and just use it as a dedicated switch forearm. 

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Just got my Arisaka and after install it looks like a screwed in plate is likely not gonna work. I really hate going in another direction bc I already have the IWC but if I end up using an Agency forearm I might as well use it to mount the light and switch. My finger still hits the QD cup and that would fix everything. Ughh, I used to love experimenting but back then I wasn’t married and had more $$. This thing is becoming a money pit, lol! For now it’s gonna be the end cap switch till I decide to get stupid and buy the Agency. 

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Do you need the QD socket? They could always be cut off if unneeded. 
 

Mounting to the OEM forearm is tricky with screws. You have to be careful of what’s on the inside. Milling our a recess for a tape switch is doable. Stick some Velcro with an adhesive back inside the hole to offer a flush mount for the switch. 

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Yeah I need it on that side unless I can find a mag cap that has a QD attachment. Then I am left with cutting and refinishing the part. I might as well buy the Agency part and be done with it. For now I am using the cap switch. I have 2 shotgun classes coming up and we will see how I like no remote. I know the Agency is where I will end up I am just not happy about how I got there. 

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2 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

Do you need the QD socket? They could always be cut off if unneeded. 
 

Mounting to the OEM forearm is tricky with screws. You have to be careful of what’s on the inside. Milling our a recess for a tape switch is doable. Stick some Velcro with an adhesive back inside the hole to offer a flush mount for the switch. 

How difficult is it to mill the forearm?

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5 minutes ago, ClackClackBAM said:

How difficult is it to mill the forearm?

Not super hard. I have done a few with a Dremel with a pen attachment tool so you’re using it like a pencil. You’d mark out the spot with masking tape so you have a guide to follow. The goal then is to mill out that spot to a depth that seat the switch flush if the plastic is deep enough. The ones I did were up where your thumb rests on the forearm if you do the thumbs forward hold. You then have momentary control of the light with your support hand thumb. 
 

Grinding off that QD socket would be pretty easy. Cut off wheel to a rough shape then sanding drums to shape. Polish out as desired. Then hit the area with Alumablack. Even surface prepped rattle can black will hold up pretty well. If you have the Agency Arms rail, you might be able to attach your sling point to it. Or get one of those picatinny IWC rail sections and mount your sling point to it. 

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3 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said:

Not super hard. I have done a few with a Dremel with a pen attachment tool so you’re using it like a pencil. You’d mark out the spot with masking tape so you have a guide to follow. The goal then is to mill out that spot to a depth that seat the switch flush if the plastic is deep enough. The ones I did were up where your thumb rests on the forearm if you do the thumbs forward hold. You then have momentary control of the light with your support hand thumb. 

Hmm.. I think I know my next project. I have a trl-1 hl that needs a new home.

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Posted (edited)

A few years ago I mounted a variety of picatinny rail mounts to the OEM two piece polymer rails. The simplest and secure manner I found was to use thru T-nuts, the hole has to be drilled precisely to fit the shaft of the T-nut to prevent any wobble, which could be corrected with 2-part epoxy if you need to. The Magpul switch mount could be installed likewise.

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Edited by benelliwerkes

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Posted (edited)

I recently converted a 14" Mossberg Shockwave to a BATFE registered AOW (any other weapon) with a lot of modifications to have a little varmint gun. There was no mounting options available for the OEM forearm with a curved surface to install a light, so I milled a flat and used 2 part epoxy & screws to mount a picatinny rail at 6 o'clock position. The four holes seen were mounting points for the OEM "strap"; these were filled with same JB Weld black epoxy and can barely be seen in finished photos.

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Edited by benelliwerkes

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The offset light mount attached to the picatinny rail was not as ergonomically clever as I hoped, so a simple application of electric cable wraps being employed for installation worked great for this particular light.  This should be considered for the OP's project for it's simplicity.  I used a simple backing plate tapped and threaded for desired fastener or again use T-nut, for the mount. The Streamlight is $40! and can be cross decked to pistols etc.

 

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my Magpul switch plate is still backordered. I am for sure using it on my beretta but I am not 100% if I want to go the T-nut route yet on the benelli. The use of T nuts does negate my concerns with obstructing anything though. Thanks for the input everyone. 

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