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Agency Arms MLock handguards available


Dkay67

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The coveted and hard to get agency arms handguards for the M4 are in stock at Omaha Outdoors.

 

Getem quick because they won't last long.

 

Oh, and bang that green arrow ⬆️ up if you bought one or appreciate the update. ?

https://www.omahaoutdoors.com/agency-arms-benelli-m4-m-lok-handguard-rail/

Screenshot_20210504-181252_Brave.jpg

Edited by Dkay67
Add photo of in stock
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  • 5 weeks later...

I get that AA looks cool,  but is there a practical purpose to the AA design.? I am new to all of this and would like the opinions of people who have been doing it for a while.

 

By chance I came across the AA handguard when it was in stock and took a pass.  Is it just me or does that look like a bear to clean?  One of the things I appreciated about the M4 was the elegance of simplicity and I have a personal preference for the minimalist approach.  I get that it's fun to trick out a sweet gun, but some of the things I've seen seem over the top and remind me of a 4 cylinder front wheel drive fart-can coupe with a huge plastic spoiler on the rear.  No offense! ?

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6 hours ago, Unobtanium said:

My issue is that the handguards must be removed to field strip, it then takes tools, etc. So you aren't going to RTZ any lasers, and it's an extra pain to deal with. No and no thanks.

The only thing it prevents you from getting to is the pistons.... And when are you ever going to need to strip the pistons? Everything else is strippable.

6 hours ago, pi314 said:

I get that AA looks cool,  but is there a practical purpose to the AA design.? I am new to all of this and would like the opinions of people who have been doing it for a while.

 

By chance I came across the AA handguard when it was in stock and took a pass.  Is it just me or does that look like a bear to clean?  One of the things I appreciated about the M4 was the elegance of simplicity and I have a personal preference for the minimalist approach.  I get that it's fun to trick out a sweet gun, but some of the things I've seen seem over the top and remind me of a 4 cylinder front wheel drive fart-can coupe with a huge plastic spoiler on the rear.  No offense! ?

Additional mlok rail I'd say is a practical purpose. Allows for mounting light, buttons, indexer, hand stop, single shot reload, sling mount, etc.

Edited by aznwhip
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17 hours ago, Evolution said:

Yep. IMO, nothing beats OEM guards stippled by Tango Arms.

You might not have seen Railscales G10 hand guards then, because they are probably the best grip available for any playform... ARs, M-lock, and keymod

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2 hours ago, Dkay67 said:

You might not have seen Railscales G10 hand guards then, because they are probably the best grip available for any playform... ARs, M-lock, and keymod

Nothing is going to beat stippling except some of the gucci grit impregnated stipple jobs. This stuff feels like each ridge of your prints is tightly shaking hands. I wasnt really super into it even looking at it, but install them and hold the weapon? Its like a lightbulb coming on.

Edited by Unobtanium
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Agreed on the stippled oem handguard. Rail systems are notoriously bad for ergonomics.   The Surefire M80 was a Pringles can with picatinny rails on it. The Strike Industries MLOK rail was relatively comfortable, but has a horrendous mounting solution. The Briley rail runs into the weight and ergonomics issue as well as the Agency arms rail. 
 

They all add a bunch of weight and don’t serve a lot of purpose that can’t be met with a lighter solution like the IWC mount. Most of the rail slots are essentially useless. Their only benefit is they reduce overall weight by having a MLOK hole instead of material. 
 

It’s not about being weak and not being able to handle the heft. The lighter the front of the shotgun, the faster it is to swing target to target and get your shots on target faster. So if you’re shooting clays, birds, bears or communists; the faster you are the better. You’ve probably felt it when you swing the barrel from one target to the next, and you overshoot your target from the barrels momentum. All that extra weight is just burning up time for you to get sights or optic on target. Side by sides and over and unders are fast due to this low weight up front design. Do some drills just from low ready and snap the shotgun up to sight picture with varying weight on board. Try the rail. Try the oem grips. Try it loaded and unloaded. Swing target to target at shotgun ranges to see how it handles for you. 
 

Never understood the bottom angled hand stops on the forend of a shotgun. They’re slowing you down on the reload since you can’t just slip up or down the handguard. You now have a hump to move your hand around. So what are we mounting? Lights and sling mounts? The only one that interested me was the 13” Briley rail so you could eliminate barrel shadow by moving your light nearly flush with an 18.5” barrel. In the end, the barrel shadowing wasn’t worth the weight/ergonomic penalty.

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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:

Agreed on the stippled oem handguard. Rail systems are notoriously bad for ergonomics.   The Surefire M80 was a Pringles can with picatinny rails on it. The Strike Industries MLOK rail was relatively comfortable, but has a horrendous mounting solution. The Briley rail runs into the weight and ergonomics issue as well as the Agency arms rail. 
 

They all add a bunch of weight and don’t serve a lot of purpose that can’t be met with a lighter solution like the IWC mount. Most of the rail slots are essentially useless. Their only benefit is they reduce overall weight by having a MLOK hole instead of material. 
 

It’s not about being weak and not being able to handle the heft. The lighter the front of the shotgun, the faster it is to swing target to target and get your shots on target faster. So if you’re shooting clays, birds, bears or communists; the faster you are the better. You’ve probably felt it when you swing the barrel from one target to the next, and you overshoot your target from the barrels momentum. All that extra weight is just burning up time for you to get sights or optic on target. Side by sides and over and unders are fast due to this low weight up front design. Do some drills just from low ready and snap the shotgun up to sight picture with varying weight on board. Try the rail. Try the oem grips. Try it loaded and unloaded. Swing target to target at shotgun ranges to see how it handles for you. 
 

Never understood the bottom angled hand stops on the forend of a shotgun. They’re slowing you down on the reload since you can’t just slip up or down the handguard. You now have a hump to move your hand around. So what are we mounting? Lights and sling mounts? The only one that interested me was the 13” Briley rail so you could eliminate barrel shadow by moving your light nearly flush with an 18.5” barrel. In the end, the barrel shadowing wasn’t worth the weight/ergonomic penalty.

I am getting around barrel shadow with a 14" barrel and the M600V. It has ever so SLIGHT a shadow, but shouldn't mess with my i2 any.

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16 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

Never understood the bottom angled hand stops on the forend of a shotgun. They’re slowing you down on the reload since you can’t just slip up or down the handguard. You now have a hump to move your hand around. 

I agree with this part. I ran hand stops for a bit and ended up hating it for the reason you mentioned. Switched it up for an indexer which I like much better as I can still easily slide up and down to reload by simply lifting a finger and faster back on target as I don't need to fumble with ideal grip location with the physical index point. Also when quad loading, it provides a beneficial physical stop to quickly get second load in if my hand overshoots.

PXL_20210607_164141018~2.jpg

 

Real question though... For those with OEM guard... How do you handle light activation? I see lots of people just running a straight light with rear light activation button, but constant on isn't always ideal right? Even mounted on the left side, you'd have to compromise your grip to turn on and off. I guessed you could drill into the guard to mount a remote.

Edited by aznwhip
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1 hour ago, Unobtanium said:

I have no issues with constant on. I turn it on. I shoot what needs shot. I turn it off. If I want to be more stealthy than that, I just eliminate all signature and use i2.

So lights on shotguns are primarily for HD situations right? Last training course I got specifically addressed signature reduction with having lights on like that. Shouldn't leave it on for adversary to be able to see you or see you coming from a different room. The preferred method is operate with momentary on/off without grip compromise.

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4 hours ago, aznwhip said:

 

PXL_20210607_164141018~2.jpg

 

Real question though... For those with OEM guard... How do you handle light activation? I see lots of people just running a straight light with rear light activation button, but constant on isn't always ideal right? Even mounted on the left side, you'd have to compromise your grip to turn on and off. I guessed you could drill into the guard to mount a remote.

I have a SF Scout M600 with the standard shrouded tail cap mounted on an IWC mount. I have long arms, big hands and long fingers.

I don't find that activating the light button either for momentary or on/off, has any affect on my grip that I would say compromises it.

Maybe someone with different anatomical structure would have issues but I don't. I think the standard OEM hand guards are one of the things Benelli got right with the gun, altho stippling greatly improves them.

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1 hour ago, aznwhip said:

So lights on shotguns are primarily for HD situations right? Last training course I got specifically addressed signature reduction with having lights on like that. Shouldn't leave it on for adversary to be able to see you or see you coming from a different room. The preferred method is operate with momentary on/off without grip compromise.

Ive had training that emphasizes both. Once you begin the engagement,  however,  none of the training Inhave received emphasizes losing track of your target: light stays on. 

 

Moving, you can modulate the switch fine, without compromising grip, at 10:30 in an IWC. Under the stress of firing both psychological and physical in the form of recoil, the light just needs to be left on. Again,  once you engage, you do not willingly lose sight of the target.

 

If i need to be super stealthy for some reason,  I'll be using i2 and nevermind viz signatures. 

Edited by Unobtanium
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