M4 Rear Sight Pin removal help

[Dkay67]

Is there a special tool needed to remove and replace the pin highlighted in the attached pictures?

I am transferring the sight elevation and windage into a NP3 coated version and my block/pin/hammer isn't cutting it for pressing it out.

@StrangerDanger

Any help from the gunsmiths in the forum to point on right direction or helpful tips?

Thanks

[Doge]

It is staked in place. Easiest route is just to just buy the pin and block. If you remove the pin it will basically be worthless if you sell it.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/70066

[StrangerDanger]

That pin is a bitch, but it is possible to remove. Some are worse than others depending on how overzealous Benelli got when staking around the ends of the pin. Plan on busting punches and definitely wear eye protection since punches are quite energetic when they fragment under hammering.

Another issue is the pin is such a small diameter that you can't really deliver a lot of hammer force to the pin without risking bending the punch. I did buy a set of short punches to get the pin moving. I've still broken these little punches fighting with that pin. I've broken tons of Starrett punches on that bastard. I usually use a 12 ounce brass hammer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H407C1O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've found the best way to drive it out is to clamp the rear sight housing into a padded vice on the sides of the housing. That way the pin is horizontal above the vice jaws and you can hammer on it going against the jaws. If you're hammering in a direction that will allow the housing to pivot in the jaws, you'll never get it out. Once the pin drifts a small amount, you can then switch to a longer punch to finish driving it out.

Getting the pin back in is much easier than getting it out. It will still be retained tightly by the staking present on the housing, so the risk of it falling out is almost non-existent.

[Dkay67]

2 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

That pin is a bitch, but it is possible to remove. Some are worse than others depending on how overzealous Benelli got when staking around the ends of the pin. Plan on busting punches and definitely wear eye protection since punches are quite energetic when they fragment under hammering.

Another issue is the pin is such a small diameter that you can't really deliver a lot of hammer force to the pin without risking bending the punch. I did buy a set of short punches to get the pin moving. I've still broken these little punches fighting with that pin. I've broken tons of Starrett punches on that bastard. I usually use a 12 ounce brass hammer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H407C1O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've found the best way to drive it out is to clamp the rear sight housing into a padded vice on the sides of the housing. That way the pin is horizontal above the vice jaws and you can hammer on it going against the jaws. If you're hammering in a direction that will allow the housing to pivot in the jaws, you'll never get it out. Once the pin drifts a small amount, you can then switch to a longer punch to finish driving it out.

Getting the pin back in is much easier than getting it out. It will still be retained tightly by the staking present on the housing, so the risk of it falling out is almost non-existent.

Thanks @StrangerDanger.

I think I'm going to go the route that Doge suggested above and just buy the loose pin and elevation block from MGW. Less work and physical hassle.

(As well as cost of a vise, hammer, and several punches to destroy in the process)

On the installation of the new block and pin, any suggestion on the staking so that the new NP3 isn't marred too badly on either side being staked, or is there any other suitable way to secure the pin such as a JB weld McGyver hack.

[Dkay67]

3 hours ago, Doge said:

It is staked in place. Easiest route is just to just buy the pin and block. If you remove the pin it will basically be worthless if you sell it.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/70066

Thank you, depending on how/what StrangerDanger says in my follow-up,  I think that this is the path ill take to save on some equipment buys and labor hassle

?✌

[StrangerDanger]

I don't feel its necessary for the staking. It was probably some military requirement that wasn't actually needed from LPA. The pin's fit is tight, so there isn't much risk of it coming out on its own.

If you use a brass hammer or punch, it should prevent you from marring the NP3 finish.

 

It would be safe to say that removal of that pin is my least favorite part of tearing down an M4. Followed closely by the bolt extractor claw's pin.