unreliable cycling of M2 in cold weather

[ricks]

I have been using a LH M2 since June of 2005. The gun works fine above 70 degrees. Below that, the gun doesnt consistantly lock the bolt. I also notice the bolt stops siding shut as fast after 20 shells and the inside is pretty dirty. I disassemble it after each Sporting Clay shoot and clean every component with Hoppes 9 and oil it with the Benelli Oil(one drop on each slide.

 

I shoot AA Super Sport shells, and have shot about 10 cases to this point. Any ideas would be great. I am about ready to go back to the Citori.

 

Thanks

Rick

[tucker301]

Clean & lube the recoil tube and spring (inside the stock).

[dagrizz]

Originally posted by ricks:

I have been using a LH M2 since June of 2005. The gun works fine above 70 degrees. Below that, the gun doesnt consistantly lock the bolt. I also notice the bolt stops siding shut as fast after 20 shells and the inside is pretty dirty. I disassemble it after each Sporting Clay shoot and clean every component with Hoppes 9 and oil it with the Benelli Oil(one drop on each slide.

 

I shoot AA Super Sport shells, and have shot about 10 cases to this point. Any ideas would be great. I am about ready to go back to the Citori.

 

Thanks

Rick

I would have to agree with Tucker on this one. I have about 12K rounds through my M2 and never noticed that. I have shot trap and 5 stand in 15 to 20 degree weather with no problems. The Win AA's should not be a problem but I know that the AA's also come in a feather lite recoil that wont even cycle in my M2. The one thing is that my M2 wont cycle anything less than 2.75 Dram Eq and 1 Ounce loads.

 

After about a years use I cleaned the recoil spring and noticed it was fairly dirty in there. But I still had no cycling issues.

 

So give the recoil spring a good cleaning.

 

Mike

[remarkable]

Benelli M1, SBE, and Montefeltro Recoil Spring & Maintained tips.

 

 

My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova.

 

I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun.

 

Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite, this processed should be performed annually anyway.

Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps.

When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions.

 

I am hopeful this summary may be helpful. Performing complete and well timed maintenance will go a long way towards keeping your Benelli in great operating condition. Nothing is worse than a semi autoloading shotgun that becomes a single shot. I wish I would have had this information when I purchased my first Benelli.

[ricks]

Thank you for the help. I am going to try cleaning the recoil spring and see what happens. You are correct, that part has never been touched to this point. I have 3 sporting clay shoots in April so this will be a good test.

 

Thanks for the quick response and help.

 

Rick

[tucker301]

One footnote to the otherwise excellent advice given by remarkable.

Your M2 should be a newer model that has a nylon retaining washer in the nut on the recoil tube.

There is no loctite, and heat may damage the washer.

This will be clearly illustrated in your owner's manual.

[dagrizz]

Originally posted by tucker301:

One footnote to the otherwise excellent advice given by remarkable.

Your M2 should be a newer model that has a nylon retaining washer in the nut on the recoil tube.

There is no loctite, and heat may damage the washer.

This will be clearly illustrated in your owner's manual.

I may have missed it in the prior post, but the BUT PLATE/Recoil pad on the M2's is a slip in. There are no screws that hold it in. Very similar to the SBE II.

 

Mike