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Shepherd

Handloads

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Hello gentlemen (and Ladies ) . I know several of you are into hand loading. What specific rounds, In your experience, would be the best 30-06 handload for the Benelli R1 ????

 

 

Here are the different scenarios:

 

100 yard shots or less Whitetail deer

 

200-300 yard shots deer or Elk

Also , where can I get them. I don't hand load myself...

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Looks solid in the middle, what are the other shots, random or quick fire or just off? I'm new to shooting so if that sounds stupid apoligize I

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Full Rewind:

 

Handloading is most advantageous for those who do it themselves.

In order to achieve maximum benefit, the handloader typically spends considerable time and effort working up the ultimate pet load.

I prefer to fire-form cases using factory ammo expended during barrel break-in.

Fire-forming expands the exterior dimensions of the brass so that the case more uniformly fits your chamber.

For competitions, back in the day, I would even index the cases so that they would be chambered exactly the same way each time they were fired. This insured that any imperfections in the chamber always re-aligned with the expanded case.

 

After fire-forming, the handloader begins looking for that sweet spot that every barrel (at least in theory) has. It's where the harmonics created by the round passing through the barrel are at a repeatable minimum, so that every shot has an equal optimal chance of striking the target at the same spot - provided that the shooter does his part.

 

Using an OAL gauge, the handloader can determine the proper depth at which to seat the bullets into the case. Typically, most agree that it's best to seat about 10-20 thousandths off the lands, but some rifles shoot well with the bullet just touching the lands.

Most factory loads are seated well of the lands and then crimped. This allows them to feed properly and safely into every manufacturer's chamber without jamming. The crimping keeps the seated bullet in place through rough handling and rapid feeding in semi-autos.

Most handloaders only crimp if loading for semi-autos. Otherwise, it's not needed.

Deep seating allows the bullet to "jump" out of the case when fired. Jump occurs when the bullet travels a few thousandths without being engaged by the rifling.

This free space allows each bullet to misalign itself slightly as it enters the rifling, and accuracy suffers.

 

Now, using the fire-formed cases, the handloader begins finding the right combination of powder and bullet that make this rifle shoot well.

This involves a lot of trial and error as loads are tested throughout the range of min. to max. from the manuals.

A "hot" load is useless if it will not hit the intended target. Some of my best shooters have been just above the published minimums.

 

Having some else handload for you, and doing it right, could be VERY expensive.

It's very labor intensive when done correctly.

If you don't want to load your own, I'd suggest trying different factory loads until you find one that works well in your rifle.

 

If you want to take elk at 300 yards, then you must practice shooting vital zone sized targets at that range until you are confident in your ability to repeatedly hit the target.

 

Balloons make great practice targets at long ranges.

 

[ 02-18-2006, 10:30 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

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Tucker,

perhaps this is Rookie question but I am under the impression that fire formed cases cannot be used in a semi-auto like the R1. Have you had good experience with fire formed cases in the R1?

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