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HELP...M1 Super 90 wont cycle low brass game loads


97ramsst

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I have a M1 Super 90 I bought last weekend at a gun show (used but in perfect shape with ghost sites, tube extention and pistol grip stock) and finaly got to shoot it today. I was test firing it using low brass game load shells and the gun would not cycle the amunition. It will spit the shell out but doesnt seem to blow the bolt back far enough to insert the next shell. I would think a higher brass shell would cycle through but I am not sure because I didnt have any with me. I know on my Browning A5 it can be adjusted to operate using light loads...can the M1? Any ideas would be apprecaited....I really like playing around with these light (and very cheap) loads.

 

[ 06-19-2005, 09:39 PM: Message edited by: 97ramsst ]

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97ramsst, don't know about the M1, ask tucker or mudhen. The Browning A5 does have a light/heavy load setting. Take the forearm and barrel off. on the magazine tube, there is a brass friction ring, a recoil spring and a small steel ring, flat on one side beveled on the other.

Light load, small steel ring on mag tube first, flat side up, recoil spring, brass friction ring, barrel, forearm,etc..

Heavy load, Recoil spring, small steel ring beveled side up, brass friction ring, barrel, forearm, etc

Some of the older guns had the installation sequence on a paper diagram on the inside of the forearm. Reluctantly, any prolonged use of the gun usually rendered this unreadable.

Hope this helps...........

Light loads with the Browning A5 usually was 3 1/4 dr of powder and 1 1/4 oz shot.

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Originally posted by cherok9878:

97ramsst, don't know about the M1, ask tucker or mudhen. The Browning A5 does have a light/heavy load setting. Take the forearm and barrel off. on the magazine tube, there is a brass friction ring, a recoil spring and a small steel ring, flat on one side beveled on the other.

Light load, small steel ring on mag tube first, flat side up, recoil spring, brass friction ring, barrel, forearm,etc..

Heavy load, Recoil spring, small steel ring beveled side up, brass friction ring, barrel, forearm, etc

Some of the older guns had the installation sequence on a paper diagram on the inside of the forearm. Reluctantly, any prolonged use of the gun usually rendered this unreadable.

Hope this helps...........

Light loads with the Browning A5 usually was 3 1/4 dr of powder and 1 1/4 oz shot.

Your exactly right..I ment to say in my post that the A5 CAN be adjusted....not CANT be. I was hoping something simular could be down with the M1 but the more I read the more it looks like it wont be that easy.
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Benellis are not supposed to cycle light loads.

 

Many do. All of mine do, but all were broken in with turkey loads.

 

I would start with a new recoil spring from Wolffe springs. I recall they have light to heavy springs.

 

You may have to try www.surecycle.com aafter that.

 

Or just use a heavier light loads - maybe Gold Medal? or something heavier.

 

I'd ask Drundel...

 

mudhen - CA

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Originally posted by 97ramsst:

I have a M1 Super 90 I bought last weekend at a gun show (used but in perfect shape with ghost sites, tube extention and pistol grip stock) and finaly got to shoot it today. I was test firing it using low brass game load shells and the gun would not cycle the amunition. ...

I have an M1 Super 90 in left hand camo. It now cycles all loads well. At first it had trouble with some "low recoil" loads. They even state that in the manual.

 

The trick is to shoot some heavy loads through it to help break it in. Also, I found that the "Recoil Reducer" they sell for it adds weight. I took that out once I got used to the kick. I think that helps to not have it in for light loads. That attaches on the inside of the stock. Take off the pad to see if there is one.

 

I've also had that gun completly apart since I went swimming with it after falling through the ice on the South Platte. As I put it back together I cleaned every piece of course. I used some Rem Dry Lube on all the moving parts. That stuff works great becuse it reduces friction, yet isn't wet; therefore, doesn't attact dirt. I found out Gunk makes a dry lube as well that costs less.

 

So, try shooting a box of turkey or goose loads through it, and clean all the oil off and use dry lube. Tell me if it won't cycle low dram loads after that.

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