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I am planning to buy an M4, but have a few questions before I do.

 

How does one clean the recoil spring in the stock? How does the stock remove? (the reason I ask is I fondled an M4 the other day and saw only 2 SMALL holes in the rear of the stock and have heard of nightmares removing the recoil tube assy. I assume that the spring is easto remove? Please explain? I want to be able to clean the thing top-to-bottom. Is this easy, or do you have to remove this recoil tube assy to replace/clean the recoil spring?

 

How many rounds is good to replace the spring by? With handguns it seems to be 3-5K depending on caliber, is a Benelli the same way?

 

Another item:

 

The Numrich 6 round magazine from e-gunparts.

 

I also wish to purchase this. How hard is it to install? I assume that a heat-gun is required and some elbow grease. Is this an in-stock item? I see posts saying it was out of stock and never coming back in '06 or something, but then I see VERY recent posts from people who "just bought one". Then again, we have a guy on here selling the same thing for $200. I am confused, is something amiss here?

 

Any other questions I should be asking that I am not?

 

Also, what choke tube(s) come with the Benelli M4? Is the REAL M4 a fixed or interchangeable system like the commercial version? Does it take regular Benelli tubes or are the specific to the M4?

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You don't clean the recoil spring, it doesn't need it. I haven't heard of anyone needing to replace their recoil spring either, but I've been AWOL for awhile.

 

There is no reason to remove the recoil tube, unless you want to get it machined/replace for some reason. I believe it is attached with some permanent adhesive, loctite red or somewhat. I've never tried, so I could be wrong.

 

The stock twists off the receiver once you remove the trigger group. Leave the 2 small holes in the end of the stock alone. This is a common mistake.

 

If you want to replace the standard tube with a full length tube, a heat gun and some twisting will get the stock tube off.

 

There are quite a few options for full length tubes now, much more than when I bought my full length tube years ago.

 

A m4 should come with 3-4 chokes, but many dealers neglect to give them to customers it seems. If the dealer won't give you them, benelli corporate will.

 

I don't know what REAL m4 you're talking about ... are you suggesting that there is a fake one?

 

I believe the early m1014s had a fixed modified choke, but all recent models have an interchangeable system.

 

and someone more up to date than myself will surely be along soon to help you.

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You don't clean the recoil spring, it doesn't need it. I haven't heard of anyone needing to replace their recoil spring either, but I've been AWOL for awhile.

 

There is no reason to remove the recoil tube, unless you want to get it machined/replace for some reason. I believe it is attached with some permanent adhesive, loctite red or somewhat. I've never tried, so I could be wrong.

 

The stock twists off the receiver once you remove the trigger group. Leave the 2 small holes in the end of the stock alone. This is a common mistake.

 

If you want to replace the standard tube with a full length tube, a heat gun and some twisting will get the stock tube off.

 

There are quite a few options for full length tubes now, much more than when I bought my full length tube years ago.

 

A m4 should come with 3-4 chokes, but many dealers neglect to give them to customers it seems. If the dealer won't give you them, benelli corporate will.

 

I don't know what REAL m4 you're talking about ... are you suggesting that there is a fake one?

 

I believe the early m1014s had a fixed modified choke, but all recent models have an interchangeable system.

 

and someone more up to date than myself will surely be along soon to help you.

 

 

What are my options for a full-length tube. All I know of is the one I posted and the one that the guy on this forum is selling.

 

How does the recoil spring remove, just out of curiosity? Up through the reciever after the bolt/linkage are out?

 

Is the trigger-group metal or polymer like the regular M2?

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Unobtanium,

 

I bought a SocomGuy tube and a Numrich tube and I'm keeping the Numrich one. Numrich sells two tubes, one is not available for civilian purchase. That may have been the one you saw posted about in '06. The civilian-available replacement tube I bought just a few months ago and I'm pretty sure they still have them. Also, the Numrich tube I got was a 7 round one, not 6.

 

Your other options for a magazine tube include Dave's Metal Works and probably one other one that I can't remember.

 

Removing the recoil spring is not hard, you just need a pair of snap-ring pliers. You remove the stock, then use the snap-ring pliers on the snap ring at the base of the recoil tube. Then you unscrew the cap inside the tube and the spring comes out. Be careful, the cap is under pressure from the recoil spring, so you don't want that injuring you.

 

The trigger guard is metal.

 

If the real M4 you are referring to is the M1014, then the M1014 has a fixed choke, while the civilian M4 Super 90 has the interchangeable ones.

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Unobtanium,

 

I bought a SocomGuy tube and a Numrich tube and I'm keeping the Numrich one. Numrich sells two tubes, one is not available for civilian purchase. That may have been the one you saw posted about in '06. The civilian-available replacement tube I bought just a few months ago and I'm pretty sure they still have them. Also, the Numrich tube I got was a 7 round one, not 6.

 

Your other options for a magazine tube include Dave's Metal Works and probably one other one that I can't remember.

 

Removing the recoil spring is not hard, you just need a pair of snap-ring pliers. You remove the stock, then use the snap-ring pliers on the snap ring at the base of the recoil tube. Then you unscrew the cap inside the tube and the spring comes out. Be careful, the cap is under pressure from the recoil spring, so you don't want that injuring you.

 

The trigger guard is metal.

 

If the real M4 you are referring to is the M1014, then the M1014 has a fixed choke, while the civilian M4 Super 90 has the interchangeable ones.

 

Is the M1014 a 6 or 7-shot equipped weapon? I want as close to the M1014 as I can get without forking over $$$ for the telescping stock.

 

Also, is the recoil spring assy stainless? Is it designed in such a way that gun-scrubber and spray-CLP can be used to clean and maintain it without removing it from the weapon?

 

A pic of the snapring would be great, or will that be covered in the manual the weapon comes with?

 

I assume I just buy the full-length spring from Numrich and it should feed reliably? I would also like to add a metal follower, or is that necessary? What does the M1014 come with?

 

Does the Numrich 7-shot tube look identical to the pictures I have seen of the M1014 in action across the pond? Basically I want to avoid the tube passing the muzzle or anything.

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My M1014 had a 5 round tube, but with a 1 round limiter inside the tube. Again, the snap-ring pliers will get the magazine spring cap out and you can easily remove the red plastic limited found there.

 

If you're asking if the Marine M1014 is 6 or 7 rounds... I'm pretty sure it's 7. All of the after market tubes will hold 7 shells of the correct length. Some people found out that different 2 3/4 shells are actually slightly different length.

 

I too am going for an authentic gun so that's why I prefer the Numrich tube. The finish matches the gun perfectly. I've got some pictures I plan to add later.

 

I have no idea what the recoil tube assembly is made of. If you really, really wanted to clean it out, I think you'd have to remove the spring to get to the inside of the tube. It's pretty well sealed off by the bolt cup or whatever and the recoil spring cap.

 

The snap-ring is covered in the exploded parts diagram of the manual, but it's removal isn't because that's really not part of normal maintenance. It's really self explanatory when you see it. The snap-ring just keeps the recoil spring cap from ever backing completely out.

 

I have no reason to doubt the functionality of the Numrich tube. I haven't shot thousands of rounds in field conditions, so I can't guarantee your life on it, but it's a pretty simple part that looks exactly like the factory part.

 

I don't know of any after market tubes that are longer than the barrel. The way the assembly of the gun works, it would be pretty difficult if not impossible to make a longer magazine tube fit properly onto the gun.

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My M1014 had a 5 round tube, but with a 1 round limiter inside the tube. Again, the snap-ring pliers will get the magazine spring cap out and you can easily remove the red plastic limited found there.

 

If you're asking if the Marine M1014 is 6 or 7 rounds... I'm pretty sure it's 7. All of the after market tubes will hold 7 shells of the correct length. Some people found out that different 2 3/4 shells are actually slightly different length.

 

I too am going for an authentic gun so that's why I prefer the Numrich tube. The finish matches the gun perfectly. I've got some pictures I plan to add later.

 

I have no idea what the recoil tube assembly is made of. If you really, really wanted to clean it out, I think you'd have to remove the spring to get to the inside of the tube. It's pretty well sealed off by the bolt cup or whatever and the recoil spring cap.

 

The snap-ring is covered in the exploded parts diagram of the manual, but it's removal isn't because that's really not part of normal maintenance. It's really self explanatory when you see it. The snap-ring just keeps the recoil spring cap from ever backing completely out.

 

I have no reason to doubt the functionality of the Numrich tube. I haven't shot thousands of rounds in field conditions, so I can't guarantee your life on it, but it's a pretty simple part that looks exactly like the factory part.

 

I don't know of any after market tubes that are longer than the barrel. The way the assembly of the gun works, it would be pretty difficult if not impossible to make a longer magazine tube fit properly onto the gun.

 

Could CLP/Gun Scrubber be blasted into the recoil-spring tube? Or is it completely sealed off?

 

Can these "snap-ring pliars" be procured at Home Depot?

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Could CLP/Gun Scrubber be blasted into the recoil-spring tube? Or is it completely sealed off?

 

Can these "snap-ring pliars" be procured at Home Depot?

 

 

If you remove the recoil spring, then the tube is left unobstructed, so yes, you could spray gun scrubber in there.

 

Home Depot is where I got my pliers.

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Sounds good, I have just 2 more questions that I can think of right now. Both rather noob, sorry.

 

The M4 I can get will have a removable choke tube. All of my shotguns now are fixed (older Wingmaster and Winchester 1500). I have heard that choke-tubes can get stuck/frozen up, and on the flip side that they back out often and must be checked every 10-20 rounds.

 

What is the truth here? My method is going to be to apply CLP to the threads and then crank it down with the wrench tightly (not rediculous, but not finger-tight either. What is a good tightness? Like I would tighten an oil filter-finger tight+1/4 turn--or like I would tighten an oil-pan bolt---or what?)

 

Also...how much should I pay for this M4? I see them online for $15xx+FFL fee. I would like to buy local though, would $1600 (MSRP) INCLUDING tax be a fair deal for me as well as my dealer, or is that not workable due to Benelli's profit margins?

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I bought my m4 for 1150 a few years ago. No idea what they are going for now. As I recall I got a **** of a deal though.

 

Do NOT crank your choke tube down with a wrench. A slight tightening is all you need, only slightly more than finger tight if anything. I've never had my choke come loose during use, and this is shooting 200+ rounds at a time sometimes.

 

As you shoot, carbon from the rounds will build up in/on/around the choke and threads, kind of sealing it in place. This is a good thing, as it further acts to hold the choke in place ... just take the choke out whenever you are cleaning your gun, clean them the same as the rest of your gun, and replace.

 

You shouldn't have any issues.

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I bought my m4 for 1150 a few years ago. No idea what they are going for now. As I recall I got a **** of a deal though.

 

Do NOT crank your choke tube down with a wrench. A slight tightening is all you need, only slightly more than finger tight if anything. I've never had my choke come loose during use, and this is shooting 200+ rounds at a time sometimes.

 

As you shoot, carbon from the rounds will build up in/on/around the choke and threads, kind of sealing it in place. This is a good thing, as it further acts to hold the choke in place ... just take the choke out whenever you are cleaning your gun, clean them the same as the rest of your gun, and replace.

 

You shouldn't have any issues.

 

Remove with wrench, clean, CLP, finger-tight, snug down a tad with the wrench (like you would an oil-filter on a car), and done.

 

Gotcha : )

 

How hard is it to remove the stock mag tube? I have read of several methods, which do you recommend?

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Removing the stock magazine tube is pretty easy. You just need a heat gun and maybe 10 minutes.

 

Heat the receiver near the magazine and it doesn't take a lot to break the thread-locker compound. If you have a device to take temperatures, you're looking for, tops, 200 F on the receiver. The magazine tube came off by hand, no strap wrench needed.

 

Gloves are a good idea, but mostly in case you forget and touch right on where you're heating. The rest of the tube didn't get that hot.

 

The real pain is removing the recoil tube, at which I have yet to succeed.

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10-15 ft-lbs. ought to do it for the choke tube. Typically less. I prefer thicker choke grease over CLP as it provides for anti-seize properties and seals the choke entry seat, helps prevent wadding from accumulating in the recesses. At least for the initial rounds of your session. Please do disassemble the recoil spring tube assembly. No better way to learn about the M4 than to take it apart and put it back together again. The spring is of carbon steel. Small, needle-nose pliers are great for removing the stock retaining ring. The stock retaining screw unthreads clockwise when facing the barrel. IIRC, the screw is about 1/2" in height, be awary as the spring will eject with fair force as the screw reaches the last thread. I treated the spring and the tube with MILITEC-1 and lubricated with Weapon Shield before reassembly. Compressing the spring back into the tube is perhaps the most difficult part of the process in terms of the amount of physical force required, but nothing outstanding. I prefer to set the spring to the factory default tension, you may opt to increase the tension (for faster medium to heavy load cycling with reduced reliability for lighter loads) by threading the retaining screw further down. $1600.00 including tax is a good price for an 11707, at least in CA.

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+1 on getting some choke tube grease. Just tighten your choke tube like you would a spark plug. The first Benelli's didn't even have a way to remove the recoil spring. All you have to do is take off your stock and your trigger group. Then take the bolt and push it about 2" or so into the receiver. The tail of the bolt will allow you to spray gunscrubber (synthetic safe formula) into the recoil tube. You will see the crap start to blow out. Pump the bolt till all the gunscrubber is out then spray some CLP EEZOX is good but whatever down there. give it about a solid two second spray. Then, pump the bolt to get the lube working and distributed in your recoil tube. A dirty recoil tube is the Achilles Heel of the Benelli system; however, I haven't noticed that the ARGO system is as sensitive to needed the recoil tube as clean as a regular Benelli with the pure inertia system. Of course, you don't normally take your 11707 out and put 500-1000k through it on a dove hunt either.

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+1 on getting some choke tube grease. Just tighten your choke tube like you would a spark plug. The first Benelli's didn't even have a way to remove the recoil spring. All you have to do is take off your stock and your trigger group. Then take the bolt and push it about 2" or so into the receiver. The tail of the bolt will allow you to spray gunscrubber (synthetic safe formula) into the recoil tube. You will see the crap start to blow out. Pump the bolt till all the gunscrubber is out then spray some CLP EEZOX is good but whatever down there. give it about a solid two second spray. Then, pump the bolt to get the lube working and distributed in your recoil tube. A dirty recoil tube is the Achilles Heel of the Benelli system; however, I haven't noticed that the ARGO system is as sensitive to needed the recoil tube as clean as a regular Benelli with the pure inertia system. Of course, you don't normally take your 11707 out and put 500-1000k through it on a dove hunt either.

 

 

How often should this spring be replaced?

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  • 2 weeks later...
How often should this spring be replaced?

 

I have a 20ga Montefeltro from 1994 that has a truly unbelievable amount of rds. through it and it has never had the recoil spring replaced. All you need to do is clean the recoil tube once every 1k or so depending on humidity levels and the quality of the ammo (powder/wad).

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