Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Cleaning the Benelli M4?


Recommended Posts

WD-40 and other such penetrating lubricants are not recommended if you keep a round chambered in your M4. tucker301 has a simple guide to follow. I was going to expand upon it, but I am a lazy guy :) . Bottom line is that you need to understand how the M4 works in order to determine what should be cleaned and when. Follow some of my links for more information. I use the Otis system and Hoppe's Elite to clean and an air compressor to distribute WeaponShield across parts. Three patches and 10 PSI usually does the job :cool: .

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
  • 7 months later...

Being a recent new owner of a Benelli M4 I had questions about assembly and disassembly myself.

Between the Marines M4 training manual which was very helpful and your Benelli owners manual, you should have everything you need.

I put together this handy recap that might be helpful.

 

Field Strip

1. Open Bolt

 

2. Press Cartridge Drop (Locking) Button

 

3. Unscrew Fore-end Cap

 

4. Remove barrel along the Magazine Tube

 

5. Grip plastic forearms and slide forward

 

6. Hold the Bolt Handle firmly and press the Carrier Button

(allowing the bolt to move a little way forward until it stops)

 

7. Twist & pull off the Bolt Handle

 

8. Remove the Bolt Assembly by pulling it forward

 

 

Remove Trigger Group

1. Push out Trigger Pin from the Receiver

 

2. Press and hold in the Carrier Button and extract the trigger group towards the front

 

 

Bolt Disassembly

1. Place finger over Firing Pin and remove Firing Pin Retaining Pin

 

2. Remove firing Pin and Firing Pin Spring

 

3. Lift or shake Cam Pin from Bolt

 

4. Remove Bolt Head from Bolt Carrier

 

Clean

1. Remove choke, clean, oil, replace

 

2. Clean Barrel

 

3. Clean Trigger Group (touch of grease on hammer and sear)

 

4. Clean Bolt Group

 

 

Re-assemby

1. Press Carrier Button and hold in while inserting the Trigger Group.

 

2. Insert Complete Trigger group with cocked hammer on the receiver in a slightly forward position. Then slide it back until it engages into the rear of the receiver. Once it is in place, release the Carrier Button.

 

3. Slide the Trigger Pin back into place.

 

4. Hold the Receiver horizontally and slide the Bolt Assembly in its guide on the Receiver.

 

5. Make sure the Bolt Link slides over the trigger assembly and onto the recoil spring plunger inside the Receiver.

 

6. Insert Bolt Handle

 

7. Open the Bolt

 

8. Press the Cartridge Drop Lever (Bolt Lock)

 

9. Take the Barrel-Breech Unit, place the Barrel on the Magazine Tube and slide it on toward the Receiver.

 

Take the Barrel Extension and insert into the Receiver as you make sure the Magazine Tube enters the Barrel Guide Ring. Once barrel is fully seated, screw on the Cap tightly. Close the Bolt by pressing the Carrier Button.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The M4 was also my first shotgun and I had no idea how to clean it as well! The PDF definitely helped as a definitive guide to the M4, and I really liked this video - youtube.com/watch?v=JJW4j9TcrjM. Not the M4, but the assembly/internal parts are similiar.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good lord.

 

I don't claim to be anything other than an ex-college kid who has shot a shitload of rounds, but take it from me ... all you need to keep your M4 working 100% is adequate lube and removal of carbon buildup whenever it becomes excessive.

 

I literally went around ~7000 round without cleaning ... and when I did clean, all I noticed was some carbon around the bolt face and on the barrel extension.

 

There is literally NO REASON, ever, to make a blunderbuss smooth barreled shotgun white glove clean ... and any guide that recommends WD40 should be taken with a huge grain of salt.

 

The guy that runs box o truth is well respected by people whose opinion I respect ... but in this case, I'd say for sure to skip the tampons and WD40, to buy a bottle of dedicated gun lube, and call it a day.

 

Please, if you take one thing from this forum regarding M4s ... Lube is 10000000x more important that removing all the "evil black stuff" from your gun. Anyone who says otherwise is either brainwashed or retarded. It's like comparing a wax job to an oil change when it comes to keeping your car running. One makes you feeeeeel good, the other actually keeps your machine running.

Edited by Duggan
Link to post
Share on other sites
Good lord.

 

The guy that runs box o truth is well respected by people whose opinion I respect ... but in this case, I'd say for sure to skip the tampons and WD40, to buy a bottle of dedicated gun lube, and call it a day.

 

Please, if you take one thing from this forum regarding M4s ... Lube is 10000000x more important that removing all the "evil black stuff" from your gun. Anyone who says otherwise is either brainwashed or retarded. It's like comparing a wax job to an oil change when it comes to keeping your car running. One makes you feeeeeel good, the other actually keeps your machine running.

 

THIS

 

Now Domonlord you might be a little OCD (like me) and want to get your gun shiny clean each time, but when it comes to cleaning there is a big difference between HAVE TO and WANT TO.

 

As Duggan said you really need a dedicated gun lube, WD-40 is great for a lot of things but I don't think guns is one of them. You can also get a powder solvent for cleaning up the choke tubes and other areas where carbon/powder builds up.

 

Also echoing Duggan, dump the tampons. If you really are looking for something to do the same job but better go with something like these: Bore Mops

 

Otherwise we might see you in the next toughguy fail...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the M4 finish such that it needs a "light coat of oil on all metal parts to prevent rust"? Or is it robust enough for you to use a degreaser (such as Gun Scrubber) and then only lubricate the parts that wear against each other? This is how I clean my GLOCKs but everything else requires that I go back and hit the surfaces with oil (even if they don't wear) in order to prevent rust. Not sure what kind of treatment the M4's metal has.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Is the M4 finish such that it needs a "light coat of oil on all metal parts to prevent rust"? Or is it robust enough for you to use a degreaser (such as Gun Scrubber) and then only lubricate the parts that wear against each other? This is how I clean my GLOCKs but everything else requires that I go back and hit the surfaces with oil (even if they don't wear) in order to prevent rust. Not sure what kind of treatment the M4's metal has.

 

Wipe it down with a silicon cloth or spray/wipe it down with CLP. It's a phosphated corrosion resistant finish but treat it like bluing as an added precaution. This isn't hard to do.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Is the M4 finish such that it needs a "light coat of oil on all metal parts to prevent rust"? Or is it robust enough for you to use a degreaser (such as Gun Scrubber) and then only lubricate the parts that wear against each other? This is how I clean my GLOCKs but everything else requires that I go back and hit the surfaces with oil (even if they don't wear) in order to prevent rust. Not sure what kind of treatment the M4's metal has.

 

Wipe the barrel with some rust preventative from time to time. The aluminum pieces obviously do not need it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...