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skydiverman

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Posts posted by skydiverman

  1. Just my two cents for anyone else that might have encountered this situation. I bought a CrapStar +2 extension and couldn't get 7 in so first thing I thought was, well must be the spring. Started hacking away. Still nothing. The lesson I learned is when you attach a +2 take the spring out and just leave the follower in and try to get your 7 shells in. When I did this it wasn't possible to get them all in. Some extensions have a tapered/stepped end that won't let the follower get the extra 1/4" (or less) needed to seat the 7th shell. So before you start hacking, start stacking and can confirm it works and if it doesn't you still have the opportunity to return the product w/ a full length spring : )

     

    good info.. my +2 is a factory Benelli tube so I didnt even consider that as a possibility.

  2. Carriercomp spring arrived.. it still wont hold 7, last shell is maybe 5mm short of insertion. Is therefore should i cut 5mm compressed length of spring off right?

     

    Success!

     

    Trimmed about 5 coils off and now able to just seat the 7th round! Woot!

  3. I'd order up a carriercomp spring and follower if you already don't have a US made one. It's designed to be trimmed if needed. They're pretty cheap too.

     

    Carriercomp spring arrived.. it still wont hold 7, last shell is maybe 5mm short of insertion. Is therefore should i cut 5mm compressed length of spring off right?

  4. I think I found my answer : in the manual it is stated as 6 round capacity for both 3" and 2.75" shells (the manual provided with the m1014 refers to the mil/le version despite the obvious civ changes shipped, e.g. it refers to how to collapse the stock, and to the full length magazine) whereas the internet widely claims 7. Is there a difference between the 11701 and later versions in this regard?

  5. Take off the spring retainer or push it out just a hair .

     

    I took the spring retainet out completely and tried running it with the cap only but it continues to be short and in fact only saved me a milimter or so. The shortened spring looks like the only viable option.

     

    Will try some federal premium 00 buck also as that was suggested.

     

    Thanks

  6. I'll start with this - I was never able to get 5 rounds in to the thing before it had the +2, so the plus 2 is plus 2, but it is SOOO tantalizingly close - if there is something I have setup wrong or can fix i'd be interested to hear about it.

     

    I compared every kind of round I have and found the shortest - "military 00 buck" sold in carboard 5 round packs at big 5, headstamp reads "winchester 12 GA" side says "9 PEL 00 Buck" in black on the OD green hull. seem like it might be actual made to mil spec 00 buck, which if true would be the exact right ammo for the gun right? it is taper crimped and almost exactly 6 CM in height (aka 2.36") - makes sense since the mil is on the metric system.

     

    6 go in fine, #7 is ALmost there and is about 3-5mm from going in when it stops hard. I actually pulled the cap off to see what was going on inside the tube when I fed it, and I watched the follower approach the spring retainer, and the spring basically coiled togehter until the coils had no space between then and it literally couldnt compress any further and so between the follower and the cap the sprint was fully compressed and it was about 3-5mm short.

     

    Am I missing something or does benelli have some shorter ammo they are spec'ing the gun with?

  7. Did you use a torch or a heatgun to break the locktite? I recently purchased a MAPP torch for some of these jobs the heatgun won't cut.

     

    Actually a small butane torch I bought some time ago for making creme brulee..

     

    98877creme_brulee.jpg

     

    It was slow going but worked fine with patience.. I had a propane torch also but it seemed like too much for the job. about 10 minutes in I was able to turn the big 1 1/16" nut, and as it turned it the recoil tube started to turn also so I knew it was ready - cut the heat and used a 3/4 on the tube to work on the nut, and then the 3/4" to get the tube out. easy sqeezy from there.

  8. Glad I could help. I know there was minimal information available when I needed to do my 11703. Everyone pretty much said it was impossible to do without destroying the receiver.

     

    Did you use a drill press with a vice to make your relief cut?

     

    actually I put the recoil buffer tube in the vice at a steep angle and used a hand held drill to make the cut. the channel held the bit in place so there was no issue there. I was wishing I had a dremel to make the channel cut, but having minimal power tools went with the drill - initially planning to drill through the donor tube and then push the ring out from teh outside, but once I made VERY slow progress (that is some tough metal) I realized the divit I made was sufficient to attack the ring from the side.

  9. Also there is another way to free 183J :-) using a drill slightly larger than the diameter of the slot for 183J drill directly at an angle down into the slot so as to remove some material and widen a section. then rotate the clip so it is partially in that drilled spot and stick a small eyeglass type flat head screwdriver into the drilled section and you can get under the clip and push it directly into the center until can be grabbed by needle nose pliers. similar to the dremmel channel technique, but no dremel required.

  10. your write-ups on the removal and re-install of the recoil tube have been helpful beyond anything I can describe. especially in the darkest moments (like when discovering the true horror of part 183J), there was a post here somewhere that you posted with all the info I needed. Just wanted to say a big thank you, I couldnt have done the re-install without your threads.

  11. same thing happened to me numerous times with my m1014.. I moved to different shells and made sure not to do the shotgun equivalent of a "limp wrist" and it is working aok now. pablo has it right on, the bolt isnt actually going all the way into battery.

    I'm exactly sure what my issue was, but it may have been the use of moly-paste lubricant on the rails. I switched back to a more traditional gun oil so as to not slow the action of the bolt carrier, and made sure the bolt face indents in the breech were free of all debris.

     

    -mb

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