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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hopefully you have a padded vice block or you can use a thick rag. You need to stage the receiver so that you aren’t lighting your rag on fire or the rubber blocks. Email me at [email protected] I’ll give you my number and we can text if that helps.
  2. 2 points
    Just saw this. You want to take the internal parts out of the installed receiver extension so you aren’t heating the spring and lubricant inside. When I put the receiver in the vice, I have the shotgun upside down with the trigger guard up. I clamp on beneath the rear sight and be sure not to smash the trigger group pin. You want the receiver stripped of all parts. Stock and barrel should be out. Youll be applying heat for about 45 seconds at a time. Then slip the 27mm wrench over the lock nut and give it a try. Don’t put a lot of torque on it. You want the heat to do its job. When it doesn’t budge, put more heat on it mainly focusing on the base of the old receiver extension. Then try the wrench again. You’ll see the nut turn a few degrees then get stuck. Apply more heat and try again until it has been removed. Once the nut is free, focus on the receiver extension. Apply more heat and use a 18 or 19mm wrench on the flats of the receiver extension down at the bottom of the extension. You need to keep track of how many full rotations it takes to remove the extension so that you can install the new one at the same depth.
  3. 2 points
    Just make sure you don't remove much material. If you make it too loose, the stock will be able to tighten and untighten to the extent of how much you've opened up the notch. You want it to be tight. Extra care should be taken timing the stock. Even being slightly out of alignment can cause interference.
  4. 2 points
    The color match is better on the carriercomp tubes. Carriercomp tunes are cheaper. FFT often has wait times lately too.
  5. 2 points
    The M4 is pretty drop safe. I was concerned about the design years ago. So I unloaded it and repeatedly bounced the gun on the carpet in various angles to try to get the hammer to fall. It never happened. You’d need to throw it hard enough for the trigger to be pulled in order for the hammer to drop I don’t think you could shock the hammer to get past the trigger hook or the disconnector if it rebounded enough. What I use the safety. Round in the chamber, magazine topped off. I don’t mess with ghost loading since I’ve seen it cause malfunctions. I use a larger DMW safety that I can feel poke my trigger finger when the safety is engaged. It’s instant feedback to know its condition. I also trim 1.5 coils from the spring so that I can press the safety without breaking my firing grip. It’s still firm to press, but not factory straining firm. As a certified firearms instructor, I should add some comments about safe storage. I’d urge everyone to store their firearms in some kind of safe even if you don’t have children. A cousin of mine when he was 3-4 went to someone’s house who didn’t have children and they had the shotgun leaned against the back of a door. No one thought of the gun and he went and grabbed it being young and not knowing any better. He pressed the trigger and the shotgun discharged thru the roof right next to his head. He was fine, but it could have easily not been. The only victim that day was the sheet rock in that guy’s trailer along with his pride. There are a bunch of cool high speed locking systems out there now with biometrics and back up PIN numbers. They have them for rifle and shotgun storage now, not just pistols. They’re not meant to protect against theft, they’re meant to keep the firearm out of unauthorized users’ hands and keep them accessible to you if needed. From a training perspective, if the firearm has been out of your immediate control for any length of time, should you trust that it is still in the condition you left it in? No one wants to spend a couple hundred bucks on a lock box. Most of them suck anyway, but what if you got one that presented the pistol grip to you so you could draw it easily with the trigger guard covered? Sweeping a loaded pistol off a night stand in the dark can be a safety issue. Did the cat jump on it and move the way you position it? Depending where you live can add another layer of culpability if an unauthorized user gets ahold of one of your firearms. Even if they’re a burglar. Having at least this second layer of protection will help keep you out of trouble when LaShawn steals your gun and smokes the cashier at the Stop & Rob.
  6. 2 points
    I haven't had good luck with a heatgun on any of the newer M4's. I tried for two hours on one once and got nowhere. The MAPP torch is the way to go. It only takes about 3 - 4 minutes to break the factory thread locker down. You can use the existing locknut which is 27mm on the new receiver extension.
  7. 2 points
    Would be glad to help. If you want to tackle it yourself, it is something that you could be walked through. It will require heat to get the existing receiver extension off. I use a MAPP torch which is pretty inexpensive and safe to use.
  8. 2 points
    Glad to see that manual on my G-Drive is of use to people! 😊
  9. 2 points
    “Carrier Loading” (aka Ghost Loading). See page 24 of the USMC M1014 manual LINK to USMC M1014 manual
  10. 2 points
    I contacted Briley a month or so ago and they were hoping to have them in a month or so... hopefully soon I did as about 922r and was told this "Yes, All the materials used: steel, titanium, aluminum extrusions, aluminum bar stock, carbon and all machining is USA made. " They are also planning a full length carbon fiber magazine tube... not sure how I feel about that
  11. 2 points
    The M4 is not "drop safe". When the safety is engaged, it merely blocks the trigger from being pulled. The sear or the hammer for that matter, is not captured in any way to prevent the hammer from falling should the gun receive a violent blow. I never keep a round chambered, I maintain a full magazine and one on the shell carrier when in home defense mode.
  12. 1 point
    You could also grind down the wings. My 870 ghost ring doesn’t have the wings and you do have a much better field of view. I may go ahead and do it myself.
  13. 1 point
    Thought about this thread when you said that.. https://forums.benelliusa.com/topic/21634-enhanced-bolt-release-options-for-m1014/?tab=comments#comment-146250
  14. 1 point
    Yep, got it done! Well, I haven’t installed the new one yet but I got the existing one off and the receiver all cleaned up. Thank you everyone for all your feedback and help!! I think this was the fist time I actually got great help using a forum before. So glad I asked. You guys rock 🔥🤘🏼🔥
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Yep! Both of my M4’s are plated along with all their sub components. Everything is butter smooth and required zero fitting unlike my adventures in nickel boron.
  17. 1 point
    I really liked Daves Metal works. I think he is only asking 90 bucks for a 7 rnd tube. Its metal, but strong.
  18. 1 point
    In my own personnel experience, the thread locking agent begins to smoke just a bit before its ready to be overcome. I too was very afraid of overheating my parts, but found this common sign to be pretty universal when dealing with there loctite. I've molested 6 M4's now... mag tubes and recoil tubes.
  19. 1 point
    The cerakote carriercomp applies does extremely well. I've never seen any scuffs or de-lamination. I'd go with the carriercomp hands down over any other option. Keep the spring as a spare as Scout stated.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    The front sling plate looseness is normal... at least for the ones I've handled. I've taken it off as I use a flashlight mount that has a qdc option for a sling
  22. 1 point
    The brand choke I use is benelli.
  23. 1 point
    I mainly use Sellier & Bellot 2 3/4 00buck 9 pellots with mine and have zero issues. You can find it on sale all the time for 89.00 for 250 rounds. I just finished my first box and they all went bang and had zero issues. I also have found that Winshester rifled slugs group pretty well at 25 yards. I did change my choke from modified to improved 4 notches just because i'm doing what you want to do. Mainly buckshot and every now and then some slugs. Hope this helps.
  24. 1 point
    WRT ammo, even within the same model shotguns vary in terms of how they pattern different ammo. I'd been using basic remington 00 Buck; but saw a profound difference in pattern (i.e. tighter) going to Winchester Super-X 00 Buck. Make sure to throw some into the mix if testing ammo with the stock choke.
  25. 1 point
    It should be the same nut that's on there. No need for a new one unless you don't want to deal with clean up on the one you remove...
  26. 1 point
    That would make it a telescoping stock and that sort of thing cannot be sold to us lowly civilians thanks to the gungrabbers and their skewed way of looking at guns, especially the black ones. (the fixed stock M4 does have the 3 notch receiver extension) The good news is that it's fixable. Forum member Stranger Danger specializes in swapping out the receiver extension so you can then have it configured like you want. I suggest you contact Stranger Danger via the forum PM.
  27. 1 point
    Oh... well the commercial tube at midwest gun works is the original 5rd one. I'm not familiar with a benelli commercial 7rd tube...
  28. 1 point
    The LE mag tube (Benelli OEM) is steel and parkerized (???). Some commercial options (with carrier comp being highly recommended) use titanium so you save weight and have fewer corrosion concerns. There are other good commercial steel and titanium options too... I'm just not sure which ones are currently being made
  29. 1 point
    That's more in the clay / bird hunting /sporting side of things... but here's another forum's take on the topic https://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=210620
  30. 1 point
    1. First time I installed it, it did move while practicing dummy loading. It was because I had only slightly tightened it. After that I tightened it down well and it hasn’t budged after many life fire training sessions and a match. I’m easily over 1000 rounds with it on. Make sure you tighten down the magazine tube cap first, and check that barrel is seated properly against receiver, before tightening set screws. Otherwise the front set screws will sit on the edge of the front mounting location. 2. They have not moved. They do leave a small “dimple” in the finish of the front set screws. Doesn’t bother me but it could bother some. I actually went and made a small recess with the Dremel, so that the set screws have a fixed location to grab. 3. I used blue loctite and it has worked well. Hasn’t loosened, and wasn’t an issue removing forend. I have removed it several times and haven’t had to reapply loctite yet. Like many, I agree that it’s not a great setup with the set screws, but I do like the feel of the grip and Mlok feature. Until something better comes out, this has been doing the job well, despite having to use tools to strip down the shotgun.
  31. 1 point
    I like modified for that... though some might suggest improved cylinder if you'll be shooting slugs more often. In the beginning avoid cheap birdshot until you've broken in the springs for a bit. I generally shoot federal buckshot and slugs... but I can't think of any horrendous ammo. Lately I've carried brenneke and ddupleks slugs due to bear concerns. I prefer a single tube... though you'll have to remove that pesky red loctite to get the original one out. If that's a concern the extensions work fine. There's a lot of info on the website... some images might be down from the older posts but that's usually not too big of an issue to deal with. Enjoy your new boomstick
  32. 1 point
    Installed the Limbsaver 10403 on my M1014 today using zinc-plated M4 x 16mm hardware from HD. Fit and finish of the recoil pad was excellent- slightly larger than mating surface of c-stock but I was able to get the overhang uniform all the way around. This M1014 came with the factory fixed c-stock so modifying the recoil pad to accommodate the stock tube when collapsed is unnecessary at this point. I’ll do that when I get around to modifying the stock to make collapsible. Job was a breeze thanks to the information found here.
  33. 1 point
    I talked to Briley today to pay for my barrel threading and I asked about the forend and they said its not ready and to just keep checking.
  34. 1 point
    Nice setup! I have a similar setup but I'm constantly swapping parts to see what I like the most.....such a great gun.
  35. 1 point
    I think I saw that gun on a video game once....
  36. 1 point
    https://www.benelliusa.com/customer-service/faq#question_1394 It specifically says it is not safe to "shoot slugs through chokes tighter than those listed here. 4 notches = improved cylinder 5 notches = cylinder
  37. 1 point
    I bought the Imp Cylinder and Cylinder chokes as well, It is clear that the slugs are squeezing through the one that came with the gun. Also I have heard (not experimented) that the buckshot pattern is better when you use the federal premium flight control wad if you use an IC or C because the modified strips the wad prior to its intended purpose. At 15 yards my spread was about the size of a widely spread hand. one of the others was the size of a fist and he had the cylinder choke in. I did buy them, but haven't switched them out and experimented.
  38. 1 point
    Dont forget to clean the whole thing after your done. 😉
  39. 1 point
    ADHESIVE SANDPAPER (fine grit) Cut a small 1inch X 2inch piece and stick it to a dummy round. Thumb it in and out, dont press it all the way in as to let it go past the shell stop. Doing this will create a polished indention on the shell stop lip. Stop sanding when your satiated.😀 and dont sand all the way through it...lol! Smooth as butter when your done!
  40. 1 point
    Same here. I bought imp cylinder and cylinder chokes but it was probably a waste of money
  41. 1 point
    I've shot many slugs out of my Benelli M4 using the stock modified choke that was installed. No problems.
  42. 1 point
    I would try the improved cylinder first.
  43. 1 point
    Generally recommended no tighter than modified I believe... I've read all sort of things on accuracy with suggestions from cylinder to modified. It most likely comes down to the slug maker and the specifics of your barrel. I've seen regular soft lead foster slugs go through a full choke without problem but when you start looking into more hardened varieties or something like the DDupleks steel slugs I'd contact the maker.
  44. 1 point
    Can’t say how or why, but this absolutely works. Thanks to both you Sigma, and whoever shared it with you!
  45. 1 point
    Nice, I’ll try it today and report back. Thanks Sigma!
  46. 1 point
    The idea of price gouging nearly makes me sick. Pricing an item over 5x what it sold for is freaking nuts. I guess it just isnt in my nature to profit off of others on a gun board.
  47. 1 point
    I don't have any interest in your item. You failed to see the sarcasm. Please tell me how things work then. According to you. Is it supposed to stay in it's wrapper and forever to remain unused as a "collector's piece"? Some rare piece of art work, to be put into a plexiglass box in it's wrapper so you can gaze at it admiringly? Or, is this simply a gun part to be taken out of the package and used? Put into a gun to enhance longevity, durability, possibly reliability, and therefore, hold value because it is a superior part? Tell us honestly how much you paid for it. I bet that you won't because you don't want anyone to know how badly you are trying to take someone. I never could stomach people who come onto gun boards with rare or hard to find parts and try to hawk them for outrageous prices. There is fair price and profit and there is gouging. I never have believed in or operated in the latter. Take your overpriced **** to ebay or gunbroker. If you owned a store, you'd probably be one of those people in a natural disaster who would sell foodstuffs and water for 5 times the price.
  48. 1 point
    A rare, and out of production, piece,.....but over five times the original cost?
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    You resurrect a thread in which the last post was nearly 5 years ago and wonder if the "problem" has been addressed. I submit to you that under those circumstances there is no problem. But let me try another approach. I have 3 Benellis that have the sling attachment to which you refer. Each one gets plenty of use in the field but one in particular has had particularly hard use in hunting using a sling and the attachment, while it does come in contact with the barrel, does not do so in a way that causes damage to the finish of the barrel. Here's a pic of the area in question. This gun is over 20 years old. If you get a magnifying glass you might be able to see where the sling mount is coming into contact with the barrel. Like I said. It's not an issue.
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