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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Glad to see that manual on my G-Drive is of use to people! 😊
  2. 3 points
    “Carrier Loading” (aka Ghost Loading). See page 24 of the USMC M1014 manual LINK to USMC M1014 manual
  3. 2 points
    Like SD, I owned a 121M1 beginning in '86 and ultimately owned three of those. Loved that shotgun, however by '09 I decided that due to lack of support (i.e. spare parts) it was time to let someone else enjoy the 121M1 and picked up my first M4. I've always appreciated Benelli autoloaders for their reliability and ease of operation under stressfire. It's extremely easy to short stroke a pump shotgun under stressfire especially if you're in shock due to injury. BTDT r
  4. 2 points
    Since there was a few that didn't like the choice of optic I had on my M4 I upgraded it to a new one.Hope this is better.
  5. 2 points
    I have completed the first batch of 922(r) compliant hammers for the M4 (though I think that also fits the M1, M2, M3). These are rolled plate tool steel, wire EDM cut, and NiB coated for smoothness. laser engraved to identify them as US made. Price is $85 with free delivery. These are not 'exact' copies of the factory. There were two issues I saw with OEM that I addressed: 1. When cocked with my finger off the trigger, the hammer could hang up on the trigger body before the sears came fully into contact. I'll make a video, but it meant there was a click when you touched the trigger, as the hammer popped fully into position. I fixed that. 2. When dry cycling, I got the hammer to drop as it was resetting. It only happened once or twice, but I added a little meat to the sear to make the handoff more reliable. As mentioned above, I added NiB coating, which smooths pull and might reduce pull weight slightly - though I have not measured how much. Also, I've come up with a version that makes it into a 2-stage trigger. At this stage, pull weight is slightly higher, though this is a work in progress as I explore if there is a demand, and how custom springs can remedy it. 2-stage is typically not sought after in shotgun. I don't think it will reduce effectiveness, but it might not be a benefit, so we'll see.
  6. 2 points
    https://www.j-kenny.com/installation/ also here is the install video. Might help
  7. 2 points
    NiB is much better for triggers than NP3. Teflon will not stand up to the high pressures generated on sear edges. NiB is upwards of 70Rc hardness. That said, DLC is even lower friction, so I've been curious to experiment - maybe this is the project. Not sure about charging handles, I know how to make good triggers, and it seems everyone and his brother is making charging handles because it does not take much skill. What is your definition of 'badass' when it comes to charging handles? Is there something that other options do not offer>
  8. 2 points
    There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads sufficiently to break the thread locker. Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following: Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process. To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heatgun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is common thread. The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent wrench. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the locktite's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the recoil tube. Now time for the hard part. Continue to apply heat to the recoil tube threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the recoil tube to apply torque. These are also common thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heatgun to break the locktite compounds hold. Note the depth that the recoil tube is screwed into the receiver. Also be aware that this item must be timed to index the stock in an appropriate direction. Once the recoil tube unscrews, clean up the threads with acetone or another solvent. A wirebrush will help. To reassemble, screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. Thread the locknut over the recoil tube assembly and screw it flush with the receiver. Add the collapsible stock to the tail to act as an index to help time the recoil tube assembly. Once you've indexed it to where you want it, tighten the locknut. What I recommend is installing the collapsible stock at this time, and collapsing it fully. Use the cheek weld piece of the collapsible stock as an index point. Point the cheek weld so it points to the middle of the rear iron sight housing. Once you have it where you want, tighten the locknut. I highly recommend reapplying locktite to the recoil tube and the locknut. Even if you simply use the blue type. The recoil tube extension is pretty easy to screw in. You can do it by hand. Reinstall the internals of the recoil tube. Drop the plunger in, followed by the spring. Press the spring in and retain it with a punch or screwdriver. Screw in the spring plug. Reinstall the snap ring. Install your stock. Hopefully this tutorial is clear. The times needed to run the heatgun are accurate. Prop the weapon up so you can leave the heat on it and just sit by and watch.
  9. 1 point
    I read about it in a magazine article. The article was specifically talking about how it was the choice of the Marines as a battle shotgun. At the time I was trying to decide whether I wanted a pump home defense shotgun or a semi-auto. I think it was a combination of the M4 reputation and also the fact that not everyone owns one. I guess I like to buy something other than the commonly owned guns. Since my purchase, I've replaced the mag tube with a titanium 7 rounder and made the necessary replacements to keep it 922r compliant. I've patterned it with #00 buck and #4 buckshot out to 20 yards. I've also shot offhand slug groups at 25 yards and I'm extremely satisfied with my purchase. Now, I have 7+1 rounds of Federal 34 pellet #4 buckshot loads for intruder discouragement.
  10. 1 point
    A M4 was issued to me while in the US Navy and attached to 5th Fleet in 2002; best shotgun I had ever used - reliable, accurate, good trigger, and well balanced. I bought my civilian M4 in 2012 and by 2013 had completed several 922r compliant upgrades.
  11. 1 point
    This might help locate where it goes. 106 sounds about right? Probably a plug for the magazine tube.
  12. 1 point
    You have the stock group in 108? If so, it removes the same way as the pistol grip stock. Remove the trigger pack and unscrew it. It can be tight. You shouldn’t have to remove the buttpad.
  13. 1 point
    Hello and thanks for letting me in. After a 423 day wait I finally got approval for my Silencerco Salvo. Couldn't think of anything I wanted more for a suppressor host than a Benelli. Found an awesome M2 Tactical on Armslist, ordered my choke adapter, and got her all set up. Thinking of going with Taran Tactical for my charging handle, bolt release, and safety but also really like the GG&G stuff as well. Big fan of the knurling. Want to also change the tube out for a GG&G or Nordic. Also thinking of adding a Surefire DSF-M1/M2 but not sure how the light will flood below and behind the suppressor. Wondering if a barrel clamp with a rail would be better? Anyway please give me insight at your leisure and here is a pics of my new thunder stick
  14. 1 point
    I liked the Scalarworks but did not like the Trijicon (and they do not have one for Vortex). So, I removed the factory rail and iron sight and 1) rotated the factory rail to extend back over the spot where the iron sight had sat, 2) used a rotary tool to cut and shape the factory rail to fit the new position, 3) painted the modified rail, and 4) used locktite to bolt it into the new position. This has taken off more weight than the Vortex Razor added. I scratched off the paint from the Right side to show my tooling. NOTE: I also removed the front sight blade.
  15. 1 point
    I don't have pictures, but I have a couple of those LaRue pistol bags and a duty gear bag that has a hard plastic liner. It's great for muffs and some basic tools. The LaRue bags are set up for my pistol caliber magazines. I have a staple gun and painters tape in with it for serving targets. Generally I tape over the holes to get hundreds of rounds out of a paper target. I also have room for the Labradar and inserts for the Ransom Rest.
  16. 1 point
    I dont normally like the CF look but that is Bad A$%. Great project! More pics as it comes along please!
  17. 1 point
    When I first install the spring retainer, I leave it poking out the end of the magazine tube about 1/3 its height. When you tighten the magazine tube cap on the first time, it will push the retainer in to the proper depth. If the magazine spring is weak, it will fail to feed the last round in the tube onto the elevator. So load one in the chamber and one in the magazine tube. Fire and see if it loads correctly. Weaker loads are more likely to fail, so you can test this with some low dram valuepack ammunition.
  18. 1 point
    I like that carbon fiber look! Looks like one of the older Sports minus the nickel plating.
  19. 1 point
    The EOTech's were more popular 15 years ago on the Benelli. So I don't see many of them anymore. There are better, smaller options available now. The most popular ones are the Triicon RMR and Aimpoint T1. The Trijicon SRO's are starting to pick up. Sometimes we see an Aimpoint M4 or M5 come thru. One I have had a verified 10,000 rounds of buckshot and slugs thru it. Zero issues with it. We would have a lot more complaints here on this forum and others if it was an issue. Picking a couple complaints out of the internet is a fallacy since we do not know if it was installed correctly. Or if it was one of the Mesa Tactical mounts with the incorrect screws. The main complaint would be with the heavy shell carriers like Mesa Tactical which weigh significantly more than an EOTech. I don't recommend these heavier optics or shell carriers; but the platform will certainly handle them when installed correctly.
  20. 1 point
    I reached out to CTL and never got any kind of response. Sucks that Suarez wasn't willing to just plate parts with zero need for reassembly.
  21. 1 point
    Update: I shot a 3-gun match today and the upgrades worked perfectly. The auto lifter saved so much time when the shotgun ran dry (not having to deal with putting one in the chamber and closing prior to reloading the tube). Also, the A&S trigger guard guided the second round of a double stack reload right into alignment with the port. I strongly recommend both products.
  22. 1 point
    Ha! I'm glad to hear that. I got up to prototype #7. I thought I did a decent job mirroring the factory design, but I noticed I could get it to follow occasionally. I assumed I had screwed up, because no way would factory hammers follow .... So this vindicates me. Yes, I fixed the following issue. I also fixed that sometimes if you cock it with your finger off the trigger, the hammer would sometimes stick on the trigger without fully engaging the sear, so you had to touch the trigger to get it to pop into proper engagement.
  23. 1 point
    Josh is sending me a new lifter. I went a little over-board with my tuning. It was completely my fault but he is replacing it for free.
  24. 1 point
    Yup, you would be in the "Wolff Spring Club" as Carrier Comp's titanium mag tubes come with a wolff spring and a US made follower. Follow the suggestions from DC and Jolly and DON'T be afraid to cut your spring a little shorter to gain full capacity. As has been mentioned before on this forum, Benelli ships a spring meant for the full 7-round mag tube even though it also ships with the 5-round limiter mag tube, so straight out of the box it will be a little too long and may inhibit 5-round capacity with certain shells. As for the mag tube seal ring, I don't have mine installed. When I unscrew the mag tube nut the spring is not captured, but I know this and am ready to keep the spring from flying across the room. Yes, safety glasses! Trim your springs!
  25. 1 point
    It’s hard to say exactly where your problem lies without having replacement parts on hand to test. It could actually be the trigger frame itself, the trigger, hammer or disconnector. Pull the trigger pack out and cock the hammer with your thumb while pulling the trigger. See if you can get the hammer to slip past the disconnector. Then try to pull the hammer to the rear without your finger pulling the trigger and see if it slips past the trigger seer. It’s almost certainly one of those 4 components. You could buy aftermarket replacements such as the A&S trigger frame, and maybe a FFT trigger/disconnector/hammer set and swap out the parts to correct the issue. Maybe a slight chance the trigger pin bushing is bent or out of spec. My guess is Benelli would take care of you even out of warranty since the firearm isn’t safe. If not, I’d gladly take a look at the trigger pack for you - just pay return shipping. I think we could walk you thru everything yourself though.
  26. 1 point
    Without a good pair of snap ring pliers, they’ll make you question god and the meaning of the universe. The one under the trigger group pin that retains it in to the receiver is a real son of a bitch to get out.
  27. 1 point
    The front sight and rear sight from Meprolights will remain black since you can't plate the sights with their tritium lamps installed. There is a work around for this, but it is costly. You'd have to NP3 plate the OEM sights, then send those out to Tooltech to have Trijicon lamps installed. I think they charge a ridiculous amount, like 250 dollars. The hood of the front sight and the rear sight housing are going to be plated on this one. It will end up looking like this one I did a while back, but the Trijicon RMR's that are nickel boron plated aren't readily available anymore.
  28. 1 point
    Hi from UK. I have a j Kenny lifter installed in my m2. It works very well. It's two piece design and one additional spring. (similar to MOA but in different location. I also have an moa precision lifer that doesn't cycle rounds at all.
  29. 1 point
    The normal functions of the gun remain. You can still load the tube and leave the chamber empty, and you can open the bolt and remove the chambered round without emptying the magazine. If the bolt is closed (regardless of the chamber being empty or loaded) you can load round into the mag tube as in normal operation. The auto load feature allows you to have the gun completely empty (including the mag tube) and the bolt locked open, but now shells can still be inserted into the mag tube.. When you insert the first rounds into the mag tube the first round will then eject into the action and get chambered. This was all developed for competition guns so when the gun is shot dry only one loading technique is needed – just stuff shells into t mag tube and keep going– no need to insert a round into the action, close the bolt, then fill the tube. Whether the “modification” holds up under heavy use / high round count remains to be seen. I have a couple thousand rounds in on my M2 with the MOA Precision parts – so far so good.
  30. 1 point
    As an FYI, ShootingSight should be releasing a tool steel hammer for the M4 in a couple of months. If you are interested, please email [email protected], and we will get in touch as soon as they are available. These will be CNC machined Rolled Plate S7 Tool Steel, so the highest grade you can get. Price TBD - under $100. It will be 100% US made, so 922R compliant. Art Neergaard ShootingSight llc www.shootingsight.com
  31. 1 point
    Could this help? https://freedomfightertactical.com/products/the-freedom-fighter-tactical-forend-washers-for-the-benelli-m2
  32. 1 point
    Heat shrink tubing also holds up well. I did some AK parts like that and have held up well. I even multi-layered it on the charging handle to add more diameter.
  33. 1 point
    It appears that brownells still has them in stock... https://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/shotgun-shell-holders/detachable-side-ammo-carrier-prod31882.aspx Just scroll down
  34. 1 point
    Art makes great quality products. He has a very loyal following on another forum.
  35. 1 point
    OK, so it looks like ShootingSight will be making these hammers. S7 Rolled Plate Steel, NiB coating. Give me a couple of months and I'll have them out. Art ShootingSight llc www.shootingsight.com
  36. 1 point
    The m4 receiver is anodized aluminum so there shouldn't be any concerns about pulling it off or rusting. My preferred side saddle are the vangcomp spare carriers... to me they have the best elastic retention / release of any that I've tried. I just use velcro brand self-adhesive loop with a notch cut out for the trigger group take down pin on my receiver.
  37. 1 point
    The front sling plate looseness is normal... at least for the ones I've handled. I've taken it off as I use a flashlight mount that has a qdc option for a sling
  38. 1 point
    I picked my M1014 up on June 19th (pistol owner but was my first shotgun), this forum has been most helpful to Scout’s point. If you search and don’t find what you’re looking for, just start a new thread with your question. As maybe the newest member to the M4 Club myself, welcome (and I hope you’ve set a budget for modifications that you’ll stick to). -Rex
  39. 1 point
    I like modified for that... though some might suggest improved cylinder if you'll be shooting slugs more often. In the beginning avoid cheap birdshot until you've broken in the springs for a bit. I generally shoot federal buckshot and slugs... but I can't think of any horrendous ammo. Lately I've carried brenneke and ddupleks slugs due to bear concerns. I prefer a single tube... though you'll have to remove that pesky red loctite to get the original one out. If that's a concern the extensions work fine. There's a lot of info on the website... some images might be down from the older posts but that's usually not too big of an issue to deal with. Enjoy your new boomstick
  40. 1 point
    Same here. I bought imp cylinder and cylinder chokes but it was probably a waste of money
  41. 1 point
    Yes, and do not be applying ANY lube to the gas pistons, they are designed to run dry..
  42. 1 point
    Correct. However, it is possible to replace the receiver extension with an appropriate one that will make the stock function as it should.
  43. 1 point
    I don't have any interest in your item. You failed to see the sarcasm. Please tell me how things work then. According to you. Is it supposed to stay in it's wrapper and forever to remain unused as a "collector's piece"? Some rare piece of art work, to be put into a plexiglass box in it's wrapper so you can gaze at it admiringly? Or, is this simply a gun part to be taken out of the package and used? Put into a gun to enhance longevity, durability, possibly reliability, and therefore, hold value because it is a superior part? Tell us honestly how much you paid for it. I bet that you won't because you don't want anyone to know how badly you are trying to take someone. I never could stomach people who come onto gun boards with rare or hard to find parts and try to hawk them for outrageous prices. There is fair price and profit and there is gouging. I never have believed in or operated in the latter. Take your overpriced **** to ebay or gunbroker. If you owned a store, you'd probably be one of those people in a natural disaster who would sell foodstuffs and water for 5 times the price.
  44. 1 point
    Dude, I think it's been made clear here that there aren't guys field stripping M4's at gun ranges to determine 922r compliance. It's an addon FELONY. Did you hear the word FELONY? Could be a misdemeaner, but I'll bet when it's compounded with whatever else, it would be a FELONY. So when the Gubment is nailing your hide to the wall for the primary offence, they can get bonus points for an illegal gun charge. SCORE! They put Freakin' Martha Stewart in prison for God's sake. Who are you? You want to play with BATF? That's your business and ya takes ya chances. But if I was gonna play that game? I wouldn't be shooting my mouth off about it on the Internet... That's just bad playin' technique in my opinion.
  45. 1 point
    Well, assuming you put it right back where you found it at the end of the mag tube on the gun, there's your problem. Pull that spring retainer out. It's a tight fit in the end of the magazine tube and it's designed to keep the spring from shooting your eye out when you take the magazine cap off. If you re-install it in the end of the magazine tube you haven't changed the tube capacity and it doesn't have the ability to move forward into the additional capacity of the extension. Take the retainer out, put your spring back in the tube, screw the Nordic extension back on and you'll be good to go. Unless, that is, you cut the spring too short when you were making your adjustments. Cross that bridge when you come to it.
  46. 1 point
    Hello there:) I`m not a US citizen..I live in a country where gunowners can buy a original 100% imported Benelli M4 with a full length magazine tube and a telescoping stock directly from Italy. It must be devastating for all of you to go around with american made aftermarked swap parts on this gun, just to make it like the real M4... It does not make sense at all to ban a M4 just for being fully Italian, when the same weapon feature legally can be owned, but just if some american aftermarket parts are attached on it. I cannot see the logic of this law. Is this gun evil and dangerous for civilian persons just for having "Italy" only stamped on the receiver? What must other laws be like?
  47. -1 points
    Im sorry you dont listen or read full statements, but i said: ".ive never seen a military M4 up close. " Further i said: It is an INSERT CHOKE,.....at least it is on all CIVILIAN M4.......... I own 3 BENELLI M4.... and seen 100s of civilian M4......they ALL HAVE CHOKE inserts. FURTHER STILL, Benellis instructions in the link above are ALL BENELLIS, not just M4 or for Marines M4 /1014 etc etc...... suggest you READ next time before commenting
  48. -1 points
    its called a SHEERING MASS. Benelli will flat out tell you not to mount an absurd mass like that on top of a Benelli. Are you a gunsmith? I am.
  49. -1 points
    not really, theyre both laser or laser from beam-splitter projections on semi-mirrored glass
  50. -2 points
    This is about TACTICAL USE / BUILD of a Benelli………NOT skeet, not birds from a blind! etc Typical accurate but 100% IGNORANT statement ::: “Again, go shoot skeet with an optic and see how good you do and how fast you are.”. TRUE, but skeet / birds is NOT a tactical setup for a Benelli M2 / M4 !! 99% of which is SLUGS and 00 BUCK for CQB use……Iron sights are wonderful for countless reasons, but a holographic display is best in most instances for accuracy in use of CQB, Eotech is the best holographic display, but an insanely ignorant, obnoxious horrific idea to put on a ANY BENELLI , ever. ….. I love EOTECHs and own 7 of them, but NONE OF THEM are mounted on any of my Benellis for what should be a totally obvious set of reasons >>>>>Option #1 below: Eotech are the best HWS (holographic weapons sight) but they’re HUGE and not for shotgun use, ever PERIOD… (I own 7 of them! I love eotechs)….They are the WORST IDEA imaginable to mount on any Benelli, the mass of same will SHEER the screws (seen it happen 2 times to others) holding the pic rail to the frame, also too, it will splay / enlarge the threaded screw holes on the frame……not only is this absurd, its like a elephant riding on a horse……Its both sketch and cringe worthy to see one mounted on a Benelli….. I love the heck out of EOTECHs!,…..but that is NEVER going on a Benelli for countless reasons! Ughhhh!. >>>>Option #2 below: (now we are talking!!!!) Either Vortex Razor Red dot (what I use on my Benellis) or the Trijicon are the ACTUAL HWS (holographic weapons sight) that should be used on a Benelli!! Incredible FOV for CQB or dropping a slug ACCURATELY on a subject at 50+ yards (if needed). ……….Option #2 (most logical in my conclusion , see option #3 below) does NOT co-witness with the iron sights and that is 100% exactly what I want, I do not want the busy &$%((^(#!!! Mess of iron sights in the window of my HWS (holographic weapons sight) !!. https://vortexoptics.com/vortex-razor-red-dot.html?vortex_reticle=942 >>>>Option #3 below: Sleek, low profile, the “sexy” option…..a Trijicon on the sclarworks……PROBLEM???? See picture below…..i tried this setup on a buddies gun and its HORRIFIC, I hated it, I do NOT NOT NOT want iron sights sticking its ‘butt’ in my face occluding my HWS (holographic weapons sight) WINDOW!! Of course this is subjective, but I hate to Hades and back of having my HWS (holographic weapons sight) occluded by anything, …….i laugh every time someone praises the co-witnessing of iron sights with optics…….Ughhhh! https://scalarworks.com/shop/optic-mounts/sync-trijicon-rmr-mount/ >>>>Option #4 below: Or something like this where an Elephant is riding on the back of a pony ……. (rolls eyes)…… Seen several Benellis have something like this The Benelli frame is ALUMINUM, the shock and sheer force from such a mass will , given time, SHEER the bolts from the frame, but will with 100% certainly splay / enlarge the holes on the frame….. this is NOT a STEEL FRAMED Remington 870 !! Top heavy disaster / mess,…….. you just do NOT put optics like this on a Benelli, …….. EVERRRRRRRRRRRRR.
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