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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/2018 in all areas

  1. Just want to publicly say thanks to Unobtanium for the trigger group I bought from him in this thread. I received it today and it is perfect and new just as he described it. I knew that it would be from my impression of him during the last several years on this forum, is that he is a person who is very meticulous about his firearms. He also sent it out to me without first receiving the funds I sent him. Thank you, sir!
    9 points
  2. The misinformation with title 2 firearms never ceases to amaze me. It is only a short barreled shotgun when it has a short barrel. Put an 18 on it and it is not a short barreled shotgun. Take it anywhere a shotgun is legal, even sell it with the 18 if you like. NFA would like to know it’s been “converted” back to a title 1, but that isn’t even necessary. Unlike machine guns and NFA’s “once a machine gun always a machine gun” position, an SBS or SBR is only a title 2 when configured as a title 2. You do not give up any rights. .gov can’t come into your home anytime they wish. Still America folks, probable cause and a warrant is necessary to enter your home.
    8 points
  3. A big shout out to this forum for helping me build my Holy Grail M4. I don't normally post pics of my guns but I'm pretty excited for this one. Upgrades: -14" Barrel Assembly(Only 18 days to get my Form 1 approved) -CC Ti 5rd tube(Still waiting for it) -CC mag tube plug/Spring -IWS sling mount -IWS light mount -FFT foregrips Stippled by Suregrips Custom -Limbsaver 10403 pad -GG&G bolt release -DMW safety -KZ charging handle(Might change it) -Benelli collapsable stock -Sync RMR mount -RMR06 type 2 -DMW 2 round extended tube -A&S Trigger guard -TTI AccuGuide Extended Carrier -Surefire Z57 tailcap -Modlite PLV2
    7 points
  4. Yesterday after about two hours of fitting forearms my M4 was completed and finally brought to life. Or, brought back to life I should say! It's been a 10 month process with a lot of ups and downs. These downs ended up having me reassemble the entire M4 essential on my own. NP3 plated in and out and many aftermarket upgrades. I certainly learned a lot and know much more about this platform than I ever did. StrangerDanger and Vertcofiremarms were sounding boards throughout my journey and that was very much appreciated. I want to put out what an awesome individual Stranger Danger is. He took his valuable time on many occasions to answer my countless questions. Always responding with a will to help and a courteous attitude yet he owed me nothing. SD is a tremendous resource and a credit to this forum. I have never interacted with anyone with his level of firearm knowledge that didn't act like they were guarding the launch codes. Thank you for your help, advice and fantastic tutorials. Enough gushing. Now I have to find time to sight this day ruiner in!
    7 points
  5. I figured the H20 would be much harder to match and wondered how it would turn out.......well , he has this on lock and I am super impressed at the quality and finish. If you need a tube get a hold of him.
    7 points
  6. Hey guys! Here is what i got currently. I would add a c stock but I'm in california, no go on the adjustable stock here. I got a fft titanium tube on the way, whenever those come back in stock. Considering maybe the oversized safety or tango forearm stippling. Anyone have those done, and is it worth it? Anything else i could/should do to my shotty? Lastly, how did i do? • FFT Steel 1/2" Charging Handle • FFT/Wolff Hi-Power Mag Spring • FFT Steel 7rd Tube, 922r • FFT Aluminum Follower, 922r • FFT Trigger Kit, 3x 922r • A&S Enhanced Trigger Guard, 922r • Mesa Urbino Stock w/ Limbsaver, 922r • Taran Accuguide Carrier • Noveske QD Sling Mount • GG&G Bolt Release Button • Impact Weapons Scout Light Mount • Modlite PLHv2-18650 WML • Scalarworks SYNC/01 • Trijicon RM06 Type 2 3.25 MOA • Benelli Cylinder, IC, & Mod Chokes
    7 points
  7. Here's mine. Build list: Briley CF extended mag tube Briley Handguard Briley Bolt Release Nordic 1 shot mag extension Benelli Muzzle Brake Benelli Collapsible Stock (California Button Pinned) Limbsaver Stock pad IWC Multi Light Scout Mount IWC Buttstock QD Mount Surefire M600 Ultra Scout light Taccom Premium Stage Saver with Briley Stage Saver Adapter TTI Charging Handle TTI Shell Lifter TTI Safety Carrier Comp Follower Briley Match Trigger A&S Enhanced Trigger Guard Scalarworks Sync Trijicon RMR06 Type 2 Railscales G10 Dragon Scale Railscales Karve Blue Force Gear Sling
    7 points
  8. My M4 looks just like any other right now, but the custom case with a benelli flashlight and a interestingly gripped knife with a matching serial number is pretty unique. The only downside is the case is a bit oversized, and the foam isn’t cut in a way that permits adding an RMR, a light, or a stock with an adjustable length of pull so I might have to buy another pelican case.
    7 points
  9. Mostly done . I have a Vickers sling on order and may make a few more changes but have a pic of both sides
    6 points
  10. Hey everyone! Long time lurker, first time poster. Been a Benelli/Stoeger fan for a long time and just got into the M4 world. First item, I have to give massive props to @strangerdanger. He is one of the most knowledgable shotgun guys I have ever ran into and is humble and friendly. He is an asset to this forum and to all here who enjoy Benelli guns. So the purpose of this post is to go through what worked for me and what didn’t as I took an out of the box M4 and upgraded it. There might be other lurkers or people wondering or on the fence about stuff, and if I can pay it forward and help them – I am happy to do it. Bought a brand new Benelli M4 (11707) in March. No idea how long it was on the shelf at the shop I bought it from but the receiver is black – no hint of blue. Serial number has an IT marking. Plastic trigger guard housing. Fit and finish looked to be good. No burrs or obvious cut corners that I can see so far. Trigger Guard: Went with an A&S trigger guard – ordered directly from their site. Shipped fast and quality is very good. Main reason for doing this as an upgrade was the fact I like metal trigger guards and had plans to upgrade trigger related items and wanted a more standard Triggerguard instead of the variances people reported with the plastic trigger guard. Transfer of stock parts over to the A&S was easy. Only issue is the safety detent spring that many people discuss here. On the A&S, you need to find a way to hold it down in place – with a pin or punch, or with a tool or you have to be cautious installing the safety roll pin. First time I assembled it, I got the pin in a little too far and had to compress the spring around and under the pin. I would suggest using a fork shaped tool as StrangerDanger suggested in his post on this issue or just a punch to hold it down and drift the pin over it as best you can. The pins are a little tighter to get in on the A&S but the fit is really superb. See pic below. Trigger/Internals: Options were send my trigger unit in to Briley or ShootingSight, or take a chance on Freedom Fighter Tactical (FFT) trigger kit. I decided to give the FFT kit a try first and if that did not pan out, then ShootingSight or Briley. As most folks know, there are reports that the FFT kit needs fitting – almost surely in the plastic trigger housing and it seems half the time or better in an A&S trigger guard. Sadly, I was one of the unlucky ones. On the upside, the FFT hammer worked totally cleanly with my stock trigger and disconnector in the A&S. With all three FFT item though, as others have reported, the FFT hammer was JUST hanging up on the disconnector. After a bunch of research, and talking to knowledgeable folks I decided to VERY carefully work on the hammer where it was hanging up. As others have said, use a file sparingly on the lip where the disconnector would snag it. Because I am paranoid, I only did a tiny bit of file work and then used different grades of sandpaper to finish it out. With maybe 30 mins total work, the back of the hammer not cleanly passes the disconnector and all safeties work perfectly. Trigger pull feels a bit crisper than stock and reset feels a little sharper. If the trigger pull is less, it is not by more than a pound at the most. After shooting 20-40 full power slugs and buck through the gun, in taking it apart, I noticed the hammer was ever so very slightly touching the disconnector on the way down. More fine grit sandpaper and we are clear not touching again. Hoping it is worn in now and will not require more sanding. See pics below - 1 picture shows hammer clearing, 1 picture shows hammer hung up. Safety: With my big mitts, I had issues easily accessing the safety to click it off. Dave’s Metal Works Oversized Safety or the Taran Tactical Safety have completely solved the issue. Both of those safeties stick out enough with that you can easily push it in without having to dramatically break your grip on the gun. It does not stick out far enough to dig into your hand. Solid click to turn it off/on. Others have advised removing a coil off the safety detent spring but I am going to see if/how they wear in over time. Install was easy, as long as you can manage the safety detent spring listed above. Charging Handle: I like handles that lock in and do not spin. If they are gigantic, they could interfere potentially with your operation of your bolt release (or vice versa). I have 2 I am using and can speak to their quality – Dave’s Metal Works and Taran Tactical Innovations. Both provide a better grip for my big mitts over the stock bolt handle. The TTI version is smaller (width) and has once detent in one spot you lock into. I tested over insertion and could not get it to go any further in than the detent area. Dave’s charging handle is wider and has 3 detents on it that you can lock into – much like the stock charging handle. Could also not get any deep depth overinsertion by pushing in on the Dave’s version. Bolt Release: I started with a Dave’s Metal Works Speedbar and for the cost – it is nice! Works as advertised and is super simple. My issue came when trying to get my gun assembled. It was VERY tight to get it in beside the plastic handguards and I am not quite ready to go shaving plastic for something I am not sure I would like long term. Currently I am waiting for my FFT Bolt Release to come in. GG&G would have been an option but the FFT came in stock and I like the option to change to a round button. Will report back when it is here and installed. Carrier: I was stuck between TTI and FFT. Ended up with a TTI since I had an order already going in to them. This seems to be a pretty worthwhile upgrade. I have long/big fingers and did not have any serious issues getting forked by the stock carrier but then I put gloves on and lo and behold – my gloves would snag/pinch on the forks of the stock carrier. Super easy install, fit and finish is really nice. Taran may not have the best reputation as a person but his stuff seems to work. Collapsible Stock: This one hurt. I think I should have done the 2 gun method to get a stock, but alas I found a local guy who had one for sale and I got it for just under the going rate on ebay and gunbroker. Nice upgrade in my opinion. The longest setting is most comfortable for me but middle is not bad. Smallest setting is damn near uncomfortable. Install is easy (as long as you have the proper recoil tube installed). Worth 800-1000 bucks? Not sure yet. Magazine Tube: Once I decided on the M4, I placed a pre-emptive order with Carrier Comp for a 7 round titianium tube. Wait times vary and I was warned on their website and the forum here. Had an order I was putting in to Dave’s Metal Works and his 7 round tubes were in stock, so I snagged one of those as a place holder until the CC tube was ready to be shipped eventually. Dave’s 7 round steel tube is well made and a great color match to the barrel of the gun. Install was harder than I expected but by no means difficult or impossible. I had a heat gun, set it up, had it blowing at the tube inside the receiver. 10 mins, 15 mins, 20 mins – checking every 5 mins. I started to get concerned – saw no smoke, no smell, nothing to indicate the Loctite was breaking. I went back to my heat gun box and found a more directed nozzle that would put heat right on that piece of receiver metal where the tube meets it. I also turned up my heat gun to about ¾ power. Tried that for another 5 mins with no movement. Turned heat gun fan up to high and let it go another 5 mins. Saw a tiny whisp of smoke coming out. Tried to turn the tube off again and it moved a tiny bit – jackpot. Back into the heat for a couple mins, turned a bit more, and repeated the process until it came out totally. None of the Loctite stayed in the receiver – it was all in the threads of the tube. Let it all cool down and then tried to clean the threads of the receiver but they were spotless. Every single thread from end to about 2-3 threads from the main tube body was coated entire way around in a red Loctite and it was still solid in the grooves of the tube. Cleaned the threads of Dave’s tube and it installed perfectly and smoothly. I ended up not putting any Loctite on the new tube going in. I just check to make sure it is tight when I put the gun back together and the end cap really does hold it all together well – no issues. FFT and others even recommend not using Loctite on new tube installs, so I will run it and see what happens. Side Saddle: I am a big believer in the Velcro style side saddles. I buy the industrial Velcro at Walmart or from Amazon. Use alcohol to wipe down the side of the receiver and let it dry to make sure it is clean. Dry fit the Velcro and cut to fit the entire side of the receiver with a square notch cut from the bottom for the takedown screw pop out. Buy lots of Esstac or Vang comp shotgun cards. Works like a dream. Optics/Rail: I have a cart saved with a Scalarworks in it, but for the time being I am pretty content with my Holosun 503CU Green on an American Defense Low Mount. Easy on and off so I can use the irons if I want to. I am a big Holosun fan, it is fast for me to get on target with the Eotech style reticle. Was concerned about the C-stock and how it would work. With the farthest extension, the optic sits a little too high, but it is not impossible for me to use at all, just my head is up a hair from the nose on the stock. Middle setting is pretty solid, maybe a smidge high but not bad. Closest setting is just too danged short to even shoot but I think it is the right height lol. Sling/Light Mounts: Options are pretty limited, especially with the C-stock. I went with Impact Weapons Components mounts in the front and back. Install was easy on both and they lock the sling swivels in place. The IWC front has mounting points on either side for a scout light or you can pay extra and get a small piece of picatinny rail that mounts in the scout light holes. I went this route. I am a TLR-HL fan and am used to operating them on other weapons, so I mounted the pic rail section on the RIGHT side of the gun. Might seem odd, but on other shotguns, I have had sling issues with lights on the left side, so I mount the light on the right side and turn it on and off my left-hand fingers. Has worked on previous shotguns and I don’t see it being a problem here. Choke: I snagged one of the Benelli 2 piece chokes/muzzle brake and several Trulock chokes to try with the gun. The Benelli chokes SEEMS to provide a reduction in muzzle flip over the flush chokes I tried. Whether this is real or perceived, only time will tell. Range Report – First Shots: Took it out and ran full powered slugs and buckshot and then some reduced recoil buck through it. Slugs were Remington Sluggers, 1oz. Full power buck was S&B 9 pellet and some Fiocchi. Reduced power buck was Nobelsport (NSI). No malfunctions at all. The NSI reduced buck though, it was obvious the bolt was cycling slower but the gun operated just fine. Accuracy was surprising with slugs. Had the Holosun dialed in within 5 rounds. Took it off and shot irons, irons were perfect left to right but 6 inches high at 50 yards out of the box. Took it down a bit and we are in business. Buckshot was a little less exciting. Seemed to open up at 15-25 – running but the Benelli 2 piece choke and a Trulock IC. Federal Flight Control might be back in stock sometime in 2047, so it will be crappy buckshot for a while.
    6 points
  11. Latest evolution of my M1014: Carrier Comp Ti mag tube ceracoated midnight bronze (they coated the 3 position recoil tube as well). Briley match trigger and loading port work TTI lifter GG&G Charging Handle GG&G Bolt Release Scalarworks Mount Trijicon SRO Daves metalworks safety IWC light/sling mounts Stippeled fore grips by Tango BF vickers sling
    6 points
  12. I’m retiring from the military soon and figured I would reward myself. I was finally able to locate a M4/11707 last week and now the project begins. BTW > StrangerDanger - your wheelhouse of knowledge has been greatly appreciated and so have a few others. I’ve been ranking my priorities for upgrades 1. ORDERED - CC Ti 7+1 tube/follower/wolf spring: awaiting backlog like everyone else. The wait won’t kill me... 2. ORDERED- Muzzle this really wasn’t a priority but saw they were in stock. Ordered from benelliparts and it shipped the same day. I love that! 3. I am going to order the A&S trigger guard. This will probably sound crazy but I want use the Benelliparts trigger kit. I don’t want to remove any parts from the OEM trigger guard. Rather have a second housing option. I did see FFT has an enthusiast’s spare parts kit. Honestly I don’t know why my brain is running that way but Undecided at this time - I realize this is a costly route and I’m still debating it. 4. C-stock I have reached the end of the internet multiple times searching for this. Patience and luck is all that is required. This forum has been a gold mine of knowledge and appreciate the contributions. I may just go pick up a another gun until I can finish up the M4! 😅
    6 points
  13. Looks nice! Here's one I put together using a 1911 extended mag release button. Just had to drill and tap for a 5-40 screw to fit. All for about $25
    6 points
  14. Got another one of these builds finally coming back from Wright Armory. Some bad, they seriously increased their pricing without any forewarning. This current M4 racked up 2200 dollars in costs with them for the plating. It used to be around 1150. They really stick it to you on the chemical stripping fees. I’m going to speak to the owner about the drastic increase to see what the deal is. It’s hard to give customers quotes when the pricing varies so much. This H2O will have a Trijicon SRO in place along with a set of actual Trijicon iron sights done up by ToolTech. The sight housing was done in NP3 already. Aftermarket will be a full build with a Carriercomp magazine tube, FFT fire control, elevator, spring kit, DMW oversized safety, TTI stainless bolt release, A&S Engineering frame, GG&G oversized bolt release, IWC light and sling mounts, Surefire M600DF weapon light, Scalarworks Sync top rail, stippled FFT forearm, Limbsaver 10403, BlueForceGear sling.
    6 points
  15. My Background The M4 is my first shotgun, and I have never taken a formal training class with it. My M4 haD less than 200 rounds through it before this class. My Equipment The Shotgun M4 with a steel 7 round tube, C-stock in the middle position, and the following mods: Surefire Dual Fuel Light on an IWC QD Mount GG&G Bolt Release TTI Shell Lifter Aimpoint T2 on ADM Low Mount FFT Trigger Set and A&S Housing IWC QD Rear Mount VTAC 2 Point Sling Tactical Gear SOE 12 GA Micro Rig The Class This was a “Basic Tactical Shotgun” run by a well-regarded local outfit that I’ve trained with before. It’s the first of a three class progression. This class focused heavily on a handful of items: Understanding how the shotgun patterns and functions at different distances and with different loads. We ran a variety of 00 Buck, #4 Buck, and slug loads at 7, 15, 25, and 50 yards. We then ran the slugs all the way out to 100. This was done from standing, supported kneeling, and even prone position. Learning how to do combat and speed reloads. This was a major emphasis of the training and one that was eye-opening for me. Dynamically loading while engaging multiple reactive targets was fun. Doing “slug select” drills to dynamically change out the round that you have. Concluded with a “shoot house” engaging paper targets The temperature hovered in the low to mid 90s for most of the training, requiring us to build in plenty of water and cooling breaks. Lessons Learned Know what ammo your gun likes: I can say with confidence that I’m never using Fiocchi #4 Buck again. Had multiple, repeated failures to eject/extract that led to a lot of (unexpected, but valuable) experience in failure clearance drills. This was not an issue with either my Federal Tactical slugs or PMC 00 Buck. Malfunction drills require a lot more thinking than an AR or a handgun: It’s not as easy as “tap, rack, bang” with an M4. For example, FTEs because of an extended crimp are not as simple as cycling the bolt and smacking the receiver. Getting a live round back into the chamber once you clear also requires practiced discipline with the manual of arms. You feel every ounce of weight you drop off of this platform: The M4 is a heavy beast, especially when you’re using it for several hours during a 90 degree day. Dropping the Mesa side saddle helped, but I’m looking forward to replacing my steel tube with a titanium one. I may even SBS this thing and drop down to 14” barrel. This is an impressively accurate gun: With a 2 MOA red dot and Truball slugs, I was making consistent spine box hits at 75 yards, and was hitting “minute of man” at 100. I was not truthfully not expecting that out of this gun. For my fellow lefties, you have to work on modifying manual of arms: While the safety can be swapped and things like combat reloads might be easier because of visibility into the bolt, other drills are not. For example, grabbing a round off of a chest rig to do a slug select can be tricky. You have to rotate the gun, tuck it into your armpit, use your left hand to current round and hold it open long enough to drop in the new slug. Anyway, it was a very eye opening experience for me. I’m still sore (birdshot didnt come in in time, so ran the entire course with buck and slugs) and a touch dehydrated, but well worth the time and energy.
    6 points
  16. One of the kids. Duck to water on the m4. I couldn’t keep the rounds flowing fast enough.
    6 points
  17. So I added another Italian chick to the stable 😍
    5 points
  18. The forum has been really slow lately, so I figured I'd try to add some content again. Recently I was contacted by a client to put together the ultimate Benelli M4 with a focus on reliability, and reduced perceived recoil. Cost is not a concern. The main goal was to have a shotgun built for home defense. So, with that said, here is the roughed out plan. The M4 is a 11707 model. It's an older version that has an aluminum trigger frame. The shotgun itself is brand new and never appears to have been fired. This is an 18.5" barreled model. Receiver Upgrades - Loading Port Modifications - GG&G Oversized Bolt Release - TTI Stainless Bolt Handle - FFT Reproduction Handguards Stippled by Tango Arms Stock Upgrades - Benelli M4 OEM Collapsible Stock - IWC MOE QD Sling Mount - Limbsaver 11011 Custom Fit with Noveski Adapter Plate Magazine Tube Assembly - Carriercomp Titanium Full Length Magazine Tube, internals polished - Carriercomp Magazine Follower (Old style with the red plastic indicator) - Carriercomp/Wolff Magazine Spring Trigger Pack - A&S Engineering Trigger Frame - FFT Trigger/Hammer/Disconnector Kit - FFT Shell Elevator - DMW Oversized Safety - Wolff Trigger Pack Spring Kit Sights and Optics - Scalarworks Sync Rail - Trijicon RMR Type 2, RM09 - 1moa dot size - Meprolight Night Sights Weapon Light Package - Surefire M600DF 1500 lumen output. - Impact Weapon Components Benelli M4 Light/Sling Mount - Surefire tailcap modified to remove the shroud Sling - BlueForceGear Padded QD Sling Refinish All parts are to be refinished in NP3 by Robar. Plastics will remain black. Items such as the lamp head on the weapon light will be painted to match the NP3 finish. The Trijicon RMR will be left alone. I received the shotgun on August 6, 2019. By August 7, 2019, the shotgun had been fully disassembled down to the smallest parts. Threaded parts were cleaned up chemically and with a wire wheel to remove any thread locker compound. Cleaning the parts up eats up a lot of time when done right. Even the bolt head is disassembled which is nearly an impossible task without some specialized tools. Getting that roll pin that holds the extractor claw out is almost an impossible task. You need a tiny curved punch in order to tap it out successfully. I disassembled his pistol grip stock so that the sling hardware and the installation screw inside the stock will all be plated in NP3 as well. As expected, the two screws that hold the rear sight in place are destroyed upon removal (the tip of the screw almost always breaks off.) I believe LPA stakes the top of the screw and creates that cupped shape. The nut that holds the front sight in place is a one time use item and will be replaced upon reassembly. This nut cannot be NP3 plated since it has a nylock insert. Small springs are bagged and tagged for reassembly. Some of them are confusing to know the difference by just looking at them. Springs like the one that holds the bolt handle detent and the extractor claw spring can be easily confused with ones from the trigger pack. I'll begin the loading port modifications once the A&S trigger frame arrives. I plan to go high, on the port, but not as high as Briley. I also plan to open the mouth more than Briley typically does. The entire loading port will be dehorned and there will not be a single sharp edge inside the mouth. Mine are all done by hand, so it is a little tedious. The owner supplied the carriercomp components, and the shipment from FFT arrived already. The handguards from FFT were mailed out to Tango Arms this morning. Will update with more as we move forward.
    5 points
  19. Yep just the barrel, and the E-Form 1 is SUPER easy, I got the barrel off GunBroker, seemed to be the best price.
    5 points
  20. Bought a second Benelli just to get the stock for my SBS. Form 1 took 25 days. Excuse the dog hair lol.
    5 points
  21. Finally an easier solution for adding a Limbsaver to the Benelli M4 is available. This is significantly easier and requires fewer parts in the past assemblies of the 10111 model that required the Noveske adapter plate that is no longer sold. For this assembly we'll be using the Limbsaver 10403. This model has a raised lip on the inside of the buttpad that helps center the pad on the stock. First step is to remove the collapsible stock from your shotgun. You will then need to remove the factory buttpad by using a philips screw driver and inserting it in to the two small holes on the factory buttpad. Use a little oil or spit on the driver to help push it in. Push the driver in firmly as you unscrew the fasteners. Pull the buttpad away from the stock as you unscrew it. The screws will remain captive inside of the buttpad. Not the large hole roughly in the center of the stock. This is where the receiver extension passes thru the stock and in to the buttpad when the stock is in the fully collapsed position. The next step is to fit your buttpad to the stock. I had to purchase screws from the hardware store to make this buttpad work for this application. I used M4 machine screws, 0.7 thread pitch, 16mm in length. You will need two of them. The ones I bought use a 2.5mm allen head driver. Press the screws in to the Limbsaver buttpad through the two holes in the rubber. Use your driver to press since it will have to push past the rubber. They will snap in to place once seated. You'll see the threads sticking out of the bottom of the buttpad. Screw the buttpad on to the stock. Note the two holes top and bottom for accessing the screws. Now we need to make a hole in the plastic base of the buttpad for the receiver extension to pass in to. Now that you have the pad attached to the stock, you'll want to get a Sharpie marker with the cap off and drop it down the hole of the collapsible stock where the receiver extension goes. I use a silver one since it makes it easier to see the marks. I shake the stock around a little to get the marker to give me a witness mark as to where I am going to drill. Now remove the buttpad from the stock and check your witness marks. You should have something like this. You now know roughly where you need to drill your 7/8" hole. Rather than trying to bore that big of a hole in one pass, you'll have better luck starting small and moving up. I start with a 1/4" Forester bit and drill it out on a drill press. You do not want to drill all the way through the buttpad. You only want to drill through the plastic back which will open up to a void inside the buttpad. I suppose you could drill this out with a electric drill, but your quality of work is likely going to suffer. First hole is drilled. Take the pad and offer it back up to the stock. Look down the hole where the receiver extension goes down with a flash light and see how close to center your hole is to the hole you're looking down. I see that I'm a little off center to the right of the screen. No problem. Move to the next size up bit 3/8" and try to correct for the alignment. Continue through the 1/2, 5/8 and finally the 7/8 bit. Here is the end results. Clean out all the plastic debris from inside the buttpad and clean up the edges. I use a deburring tool but you don't have to get that fancy. Offer the buttpad up to the stock again and check to see if you can see the sides of the buttpad through the hole. You should be looking straight in to the hole drilled. If an edge is present, it will liely contact the receiver extension and prevent it from collapsing. You can hog out the hole slightly with no ill effects on performance. Finally offer up the stock with the buttpad screwed in place to the shotgun and see if the stock fully collapses. If it hangs up, you need to remove the offending area. If it fits, finalize the installation by applying some blue Loctite 243 to the screws then snug them up. No retard strength is needed. These threaded holes will strip easily if you muscle it. Use your fingers to hole the buttpad in alignment to the stock as you tighten it. There is a small amount of wiggle room in the pad that will allow you to even out the alignment. Make sure everything still fits after you've tightened the screws. The rubber of the Limbsaver will often times have a dried out look to it. You can rub some lubricant on the rubber with a rag and it will return it to a deep black finish. Limbsaver claims you'll see a 70% reduction in perceived recoil with these pads. That figure is a little optimistic. Realistically I'd say you'll see a 40% reduction.
    5 points
  22. Been waiting since the beginning of March for my PVS14 night vision monocular in white phosporous. That finally came in about two weeks ago. Ordered an MTEK vented carbon fiber helmet in April and that came in about a week ago. Bought a MAWL in April along with some of the Wilcox G24 mount for the helmet, those came in pretty much immediately. So now I've been planning out night hikes around the mountain most nights with my chocolate Labrador. We creep with zero light output and stalk some mule deer for fun. Moonless nights are really fun. The Milkyway is amazing under night vision. It's fun to see who has surveillance cameras since they stick out like a sore thumb under IR. Photos thru the monocular with my cellphone are crap compared to how it really looks in person. All that grainy looking detail is gone in person. I've done 2 hour hikes with it on and it has been quite comfortable. No neck pain issues from having the helmet on which is surprising, since hardhats at work bother me.
    5 points
  23. It came into my FFL on the 9th, but I couldn't pick it up till today cause he was in the hospital. The receiver is Black Black, and the manufacture year is 21. Need to tweak the foam in my 3gun case for that insane LOP on the stock. Was strange that it comes only in cardboard unassembled, when far cheaper guns come with a cheap plastic case. not whining, just caught off guard.
    5 points
  24. I found a NIB M4 early last year and sent it out to California for the Agency Arms build. Details Include: Agency Arms octagonal Extension Tube Kit (Increases TOTAL capacity to 7+1, 9 if ghostloading), Barrel Porting, Agency Arms Extended Carrier, Agency Arms Extended Bolt Release, Agency Arms Extended Charging Handle, Modified Bolt Carrier, Receiver Loading Port Machining, Agency Arms MLOK® handguard/rail, Gunsmith trigger job, texturing of the stock (on select models) and installation of an oversized dome safety. Extended Carrier and Bolt Carrier are polished and refinished in a PVD coating. I added the Scalarworks Sync with 6MOA RMR, a few RailScales, Agency RMR matching screws and thats a wrap. I ordered a tritium ghost ring and front post but will stick with the factory sights for now. It's really a different feeling gun now in a good way. I have a preban HK M1a and an M2 but the M4 is night and day to the other guns.
    5 points
  25. my M4 build, 11707 model (purchased august 2020): mesa tactical urbino stock with limbsaver carriercomp titanium extended mag tube with spring and follower trijicon rmr on scalarworks mount freedom fighters tactical 1/2" steel charging handle IWC light and sling mount streamlight TLR-1 HL blue force gear vickers sling grovtech QD swivel chokes: C, IC, plus the M supplied with the gun thanks to several here (especially stranger danger) for the inspiration and instructions.
    5 points
  26. I thought I would show the finished product. Now I have my original trigger with no modifications and my new trigger with all the upgrades I mentioned at the beginning of this post. Thanks to Stranger Danger for the help. Some side by side pictures below.
    5 points
  27. I'll throw in my two cents here, which are worth what you pay for them. I had to make a leap, of faith to trust an autoloading shotgun for a defensive weapon. I just didn't trust them. Then I got an interest in them and started looking with the Mossberg 930. Not reliable enough for me. Looked at the Beretta, Remington and others. Didn't know much about shotgun's when I started, nothing about Benellis. The cost of the guns went up as I continued looking. I noticed everything was being compared to the M-4. That was the benchmark everyone was trying to achieve. Light went on in my head after some time, just buck up and get a Benelli and be done with it. That's what I did. I'm confused why anyone would consider a Benelli knockoff that had videos like these that show function issues. I certainly get why someone would want a Benelli at one third the cost. But that's not what you have here. You have Turkish knockoffs with obvious issues that affect functioning. I don't understand wasting time and money on junk. After watching the videos near the beginning of the AR15 thread, I would consider that gun junk, and I can't even put into words what my thinking on the metallurgy of those guns is. I can't reconcile the idea that if you have $500-$600 to throw away on junk, that you wouldn't have $1800 to put down on something good. Because it is the throwing away of $600 part that I am not getting. I understand that $1800 or so is a lot of money. It's tossing $600 down a rathole I don't understand The whole premise of these clones is that Benelli is WAY overcharging for their weapons. WAY overcharging. That Benelli is selling a $600 gun for $1800. If that were true, someone would have knocked off Benelli a long time ago. I know most Forums don't like you to try to sell stuff in someone else's thread but I have a really nice Porsha GToo Arr Esss that I am putting up for sale. Made in Shenzhen, works just like the real deal. Only asking 80,000 for it. Yen that is... Call me at BR-549 BR-549
    5 points
  28. All of the M4’s I have bought and received as a FFL have come disassembled? The boxes interior is set up for them to come in pieces. You would not want them to be fully assembled. Things like the bolt handle will punch thru the side of the box and do damage when the boxes are smashed in shipment.
    5 points
  29. The MC M4 manual. Benelli M4 (USMC Manual).pdf
    5 points
  30. I'm going to take a minute to address what Shekkie said in his last paragraph and set a slightly different course: Shekkie said, "The biggest thing I’d stress is training. The best firearm/ammo does no good if you are fumbling and unsure of how the weapon functions. Getting to the point where everything is automatic is the goal." Break-in the gun with more powerful loads and break yourself in as well. I'd buy a box of dry fire Snap Caps to practice manual of arms. I purchased a box containing 9 rounds from "B's". One thing I don't like about them is they're about an 1/8" shorter than regular live rounds, but this doesn't pose a significant problem. Nine is a good quantity because you can have 1 chambered and 7 in the tube and another ready for a tactical reload. While boring, I'd read the manual thoroughly to learn the mechanics of the gun. If you can get a copy of the USMC M4 Operator's Manual, do it. OPERATOR'S MANUAL FOR THE SHOTGUN, COMBAT 12 GAUGE, SEMI-AUTOMATIC M1014 (1005-01-472-3147). Things you'll learn: a) You just can't rack a round from the mag tube unless you depress the shell release lever first to put a shell on the carrier. b) With a bolt locked back and empty chamber, you can insert a shell through the ejection port and momentarily press down on the round then remove your fingers. The bolt will run the shell home as soon as you release the pressure without snapping your fingers and you don't need to use the bolt release button. c) How to unload the gun without repeated racking and cycling each round through the chamber then ejecting. You can't just do that like Chuck Connors (The Rifleman) did to unload the gun, you have to hit the shell release lever every time before racking (see a) above). d) How to Ghost Load a round on the shell carrier. e) How to change-out a chambered round for a better option, e.g. changing out buckshot for a slug. f) And a whole lot more. I'd also look at some 3-Gun videos on Youtube to checkout their reload techniques. They rarely (if ever) use M4s, but some techniques translate well. I've been around guns for most of my life and thought I knew a thing or two about a thing or two, but you need to understand your Benelli M4 manual or arms. I learned the hard way after fumbling and bumbling. Of note: This forum is awesome for sharing lots of great info for maximizing the utility of the M4, but techniques for manual of arms is somewhat lacking. Maybe most members think that we all know our shit when it comes to running and gunning but I am witness to the fact that this is not always true! Best of luck. Sorry so long!
    5 points
  31. Oh, and since you took the time to view this, here is me playing in my yard with the one I currently have. Maybe it will entertain you.
    5 points
  32. Thanks guys. Always happy to help. Now where are the pictures!
    5 points
  33. It’s about that cold here too. Not much snow unfortunately so far. Sharp looking Ranger! I had to rebuild the front end on my 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro after I hit a mule deer recently. No mechanical damage, just a bunch of plastic and sheet metal parts.
    5 points
  34. I haven't installed one nor had sufficient intellectual curiosity just to knock it out for the heck of it BUT if I did this would be my plan. Call factory for replacement support collar; then whack away. But I believe you would have to have the proper support collar for the plunger which I envision as a small externally splined cylinder that allows the spring powered plunger head to traverse thru it. I believe the plunger spring assembly is removed by inserting a 1.5 mm punch thru the access port on the back side of the assembly which would fit thru the spring to greet the back side of the plunger. Installation would be the reverse, probably use a roll pin starter punch ? or a proper sized pin punch to compress the head of the plunger while tapping in what appears to be a support collar that is press fit into the cylindrical recess.
    5 points
  35. Many thanks for all the knowledge sharing on the this forum which helped me personalize my M4. Upgrades: Collapsable stock, Limbsaver pad, FFT bolt handle, Briley CF mag tube with Nordic extended follower, GG&G bolt release, FFT trigger pack with A&S Trigger guard, TTI extended safety, TTI extended carrier, Carlson breach choke, Tango Arms stippled forearm, and Meprolight night sights.
    5 points
  36. M1014/11701: Limited edition flag model. Comes with a oem collapsible stock that doesn’t function. The receiver extension is neutered to prevent function. Barrel does not have removable chokes. The original release of 1-2500 came with aluminum trigger frames. Current production flag editions outside of this initial release have polymer frames. Original release had a different barrel design that didn’t have the seating ring that mates against the receiver face. Handguards were slightly different as to account for this seat ring. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. 11703: When originally released, this was a 4 port barreled model made for low recoil rounds. Everyone hated it and Benelli would replace the barrel if asked. The shotgun would beat itself to death if standard rounds were used. It also came with the neutered receiver extension. It came with a pistol grip stock. Barrel assembly has removable chokes. Came with an aluminum trigger frame. For some stupid reason, Benelli released this model number again around 2014 with some changes. The barrel is the standard 2 port barrel. It has a regular 3 position receiver extension. It came with a polymer trigger frame. Came with a field stock. Why they didn’t give it its own model number, we will never know. These models are rare to see anymore. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. 11707: This is the gold standard model. Comes with a 3 position receiver extension. Barrel is a 2 port barrel with removable chokes. The barrel have the new seat ring design and some modifications to the barrel extension inside the receiver. Early production models came with aluminum trigger frames where as current production models have the polymer ones. We’ve seen some minor changes in finishes on small parts like the Argo plugs and receiver anodizing over the years. Some Receivers almost have an OD green hue. These models come with a 5 round magazine that has a limiter in place. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. I will note that 60 were released from Benelli with 7 round magazines and functional collapsible stocks until the ATF made them stop. 11710: This M4 essentially the same as a 11707, but it comes with a field stock. 11711: This model has all of the features of the 11707, but the shotgun was plated in Np3 by Robar. These are quite rare and not to be confused with the Cerakote model that is painted silver to copy the look. These true NP3 plated models are arguably considered the best model due to the performance of the Np3 finish. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. 11713: This M4 is a law enforcement model that is 922(R) exempt like the 11721. This model has all of the features of the 11707. The only real difference is it comes with a steel 7 round magazine tube. 11717: This model has all of the features of the 11707, but the shotgun has a three tone desert camo pattern. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. 11721: This is a law enforcement model that has all the features of the 11707 but doesn’t have to abide by 922(R) restrictions. It isn’t meant to be sold to civilians, but they often are. They are sold at a premium price. Given that it comes with a collapsible stock, this makes the price more appealing. The shotgun includes a 7 round steel magazine tube. 11723: This is a 14” Entry gun version of the M4 the barrel doesn’t have a removable choke. This would be a NFA firearm. It comes with the field stock. Other features are similar to the 11707/11721. 5 round capacity due to length. 11724: This is a 14” Entry gun version of the M4 the barrel doesn’t have a removable choke. This would be a NFA firearm. It comes with the oem collapsible stock other features are similar to the 11707/11721. 5 round capacity due to length. 11795: This model is similar to the 11707 in features. The only real difference is it is Cerakoted. I have seen both a H2O titanium finish and a dark earth color option. Pistol grip and field stocks can be had under this model. 11796: This is a law enforcement model like the 11713/11724. The only difference is the Cerakote paint options. The firearm is generally sold with the oem collapsible stock and a 7 round magazine tube. There may be other options and models out there. Benelli has a European model with a slightly longer barrel. There is also a redesigned M4A1 that has been floated that uses the Supernova collapsible stock and has a railed handguard assembly from the factory. I don’t think these options have been imported to America yet.
    5 points
  37. As a certified firearms instructor, I would preface saying that the best firearm you have is the one you’ll actually carry. The shotgun in the house will do little good standing in the driveway. Every time I have needed a firearm, I have never had the luxury of 30 seconds to go retrieve one. I would recommend seeking profession training to ingrain the firearm rules. I’d recommend both you and your wife attend one since knowing your legal rights is as important as picking a gun. I’d do this before spending a bunch of money.
    5 points
  38. Hello everyone We have identified 3 companies we will be Partnering with for our metal finishes for the Firearms Industry. The losing of The Robar Companies inc. did not effect any of our OEM accounts , we still have many companies that have been sending us parts for metal finish, Robar (being in the same building) was the only gunsmith shop that was allowed to do firearms directly with us. We will be letting everyone know soon where they can send their firearms and parts to for all our metal finishes.
    5 points
  39. “Carrier Loading” (aka Ghost Loading). See page 24 of the USMC M1014 manual LINK to USMC M1014 manual
    5 points
  40. Oh no! Look what arrived via UPS this evening. Do I start drinking before or after the attempted swap-out? It's hard to tell from the photo, but it is a Noveski.
    4 points
  41. There is a lot of extremely good comments and advice here, IMO. Deciding to arm yourself at home or concealed carry away from home is really a lifestyle change. That can sound overwhelming but it shouldn't deter you from taking the first step on the journey. Other than parroting what others have already said, my best advice is for you and your wife to do it together if you can; this should be easier because it will be new to the both of you and you won't have the typical scenario of the know-it-all husband telling the little wifey what she needs and how to do it. Do some research on gun shops and training in your local area and talk to people and co-workers. One word of caution though, don't buy a gun because someone told you it is what you or your wife needs. Rent guns at a local range and get training on how to use them. There are many examples of people thinking that a particular weapon is right for them only to try a few others that they like better because of fit, weight, caliber, recoil, operating system, etc. I am a member of US Concealed Carry Association (USCCA). They provide insurance for their members that are involved in a self defense shooting but they also have a great magazine and training to help you on this journey. I would definitely heed what Evolution said regarding what is a justified shoot. USCCA discusses this aspect of self-defense often. Obviously you've done a bit of research already as you know the M4 and are on this site. Nine .32 caliber pellets hitting a target at 1200+ feet per second is very lethal and the reason my M4 sits behind my bedroom door loaded with buck. But, I also have pistols stashed around the house and garage and another on my hip. Not to insult you here, but it is a common misperception that a shotgun doesn't need to be aimed and can be used effectively when shot form the hip. A shotgun is NOT a street sweeper unless your watching a movie with Doc Holiday in it. It HAS TO BE AIMED like any other long gun as the pattern of pellets will not spread like the movies would lead you to believe. 00 buckshot will pattern around the size of a baseball at 30' and roughly 12" at 75'. These numbers can and will vary but not enough to argue about when considering the topic. Do a little You-Tube/Googling on shotgun patterns to get a better feel for it. As it sounds like budget is not a huge obstacle for you, you might consider his and her weapons whether they be shotguns, handguns or a combination of both. As a matter of reference, I don't consider myself anything of an expert on guns. I'm not a big burly and bearded guy with punisher tattoos on my arms and I don't do sweaty black and white photo shoots for Guns & Ammo magazine. I'm just a firearms enthusiast and a student of self defense. I hope you and your wife start the journey and really enjoy the ride -- it can be very fun and addicting!
    4 points
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