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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    As a certified firearms instructor, I would preface saying that the best firearm you have is the one you’ll actually carry. The shotgun in the house will do little good standing in the driveway. Every time I have needed a firearm, I have never had the luxury of 30 seconds to go retrieve one. I would recommend seeking profession training to ingrain the firearm rules. I’d recommend both you and your wife attend one since knowing your legal rights is as important as picking a gun. I’d do this before spending a bunch of money.
  2. 5 points
    Hello everyone We have identified 3 companies we will be Partnering with for our metal finishes for the Firearms Industry. The losing of The Robar Companies inc. did not effect any of our OEM accounts , we still have many companies that have been sending us parts for metal finish, Robar (being in the same building) was the only gunsmith shop that was allowed to do firearms directly with us. We will be letting everyone know soon where they can send their firearms and parts to for all our metal finishes.
  3. 4 points
    M1014/11701: Limited edition flag model. Comes with a oem collapsible stock that doesn’t function. The receiver extension is neutered to prevent function. Barrel does not have removable chokes. The original release of 1-2500 came with aluminum trigger frames. Current production flag editions outside of this initial release have polymer frames. Original release had a different barrel design that didn’t have the seating ring that mates against the receiver face. Handguards were slightly different as to account for this seat ring. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. 11703: When originally released, this was a 4 port barreled model made for low recoil rounds. Everyone hated it and Benelli would replace the barrel if asked. The shotgun would beat itself to death if standard rounds were used. It also came with the neutered receiver extension. It came with a pistol grip stock. Barrel assembly has removable chokes. Came with an aluminum trigger frame. For some stupid reason, Benelli released this model number again around 2014 with some changes. The barrel is the standard 2 port barrel. It has a regular 3 position receiver extension. It came with a polymer trigger frame. Came with a field stock. Why they didn’t give it its own model number, we will never know. These models are rare to see anymore. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. 11707: This is the gold standard model. Comes with a 3 position receiver extension. Barrel is a 2 port barrel with removable chokes. The barrel have the new seat ring design and some modifications to the barrel extension inside the receiver. Early production models came with aluminum trigger frames where as current production models have the polymer ones. We’ve seen some minor changes in finishes on small parts like the Argo plugs and receiver anodizing over the years. Some Receivers almost have an OD green hue. These models come with a 5 round magazine that has a limiter in place. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. I will note that 60 were released from Benelli with 7 round magazines and functional collapsible stocks until the ATF made them stop. 11710: This M4 essentially the same as a 11707, but it comes with a field stock. 11711: This model has all of the features of the 11707, but the shotgun was plated in Np3 by Robar. These are quite rare and not to be confused with the Cerakote model that is painted silver to copy the look. These true NP3 plated models are arguably considered the best model due to the performance of the Np3 finish. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. 11713: This M4 is a law enforcement model that is 922(R) exempt like the 11721. This model has all of the features of the 11707. The only real difference is it comes with a steel 7 round magazine tube. 11717: This model has all of the features of the 11707, but the shotgun has a three tone desert camo pattern. 922(r) rules apply for modifying the shotgun’s capacity and collapsible stock. 11721: This is a law enforcement model that has all the features of the 11707 but doesn’t have to abide by 922(R) restrictions. It isn’t meant to be sold to civilians, but they often are. They are sold at a premium price. Given that it comes with a collapsible stock, this makes the price more appealing. The shotgun includes a 7 round steel magazine tube. 11723: This is a 14” Entry gun version of the M4 the barrel doesn’t have a removable choke. This would be a NFA firearm. It comes with the field stock. Other features are similar to the 11707/11721. 5 round capacity due to length. 11724: This is a 14” Entry gun version of the M4 the barrel doesn’t have a removable choke. This would be a NFA firearm. It comes with the oem collapsible stock other features are similar to the 11707/11721. 5 round capacity due to length. 11795: This model is similar to the 11707 in features. The only real difference is it is Cerakoted. I have seen both a H2O titanium finish and a dark earth color option. Pistol grip and field stocks can be had under this model. 11796: This is a law enforcement model like the 11713/11724. The only difference is the Cerakote paint options. The firearm is generally sold with the oem collapsible stock and a 7 round magazine tube. There may be other options and models out there. Benelli has a European model with a slightly longer barrel. There is also a redesigned M4A1 that has been floated that uses the Supernova collapsible stock and has a railed handguard assembly from the factory. I don’t think these options have been imported to America yet.
  4. 4 points
    My Background The M4 is my first shotgun, and I have never taken a formal training class with it. My M4 haD less than 200 rounds through it before this class. My Equipment The Shotgun M4 with a steel 7 round tube, C-stock in the middle position, and the following mods: Surefire Dual Fuel Light on an IWC QD Mount GG&G Bolt Release TTI Shell Lifter Aimpoint T2 on ADM Low Mount FFT Trigger Set and A&S Housing IWC QD Rear Mount VTAC 2 Point Sling Tactical Gear SOE 12 GA Micro Rig The Class This was a “Basic Tactical Shotgun” run by a well-regarded local outfit that I’ve trained with before. It’s the first of a three class progression. This class focused heavily on a handful of items: Understanding how the shotgun patterns and functions at different distances and with different loads. We ran a variety of 00 Buck, #4 Buck, and slug loads at 7, 15, 25, and 50 yards. We then ran the slugs all the way out to 100. This was done from standing, supported kneeling, and even prone position. Learning how to do combat and speed reloads. This was a major emphasis of the training and one that was eye-opening for me. Dynamically loading while engaging multiple reactive targets was fun. Doing “slug select” drills to dynamically change out the round that you have. Concluded with a “shoot house” engaging paper targets The temperature hovered in the low to mid 90s for most of the training, requiring us to build in plenty of water and cooling breaks. Lessons Learned Know what ammo your gun likes: I can say with confidence that I’m never using Fiocchi #4 Buck again. Had multiple, repeated failures to eject/extract that led to a lot of (unexpected, but valuable) experience in failure clearance drills. This was not an issue with either my Federal Tactical slugs or PMC 00 Buck. Malfunction drills require a lot more thinking than an AR or a handgun: It’s not as easy as “tap, rack, bang” with an M4. For example, FTEs because of an extended crimp are not as simple as cycling the bolt and smacking the receiver. Getting a live round back into the chamber once you clear also requires practiced discipline with the manual of arms. You feel every ounce of weight you drop off of this platform: The M4 is a heavy beast, especially when you’re using it for several hours during a 90 degree day. Dropping the Mesa side saddle helped, but I’m looking forward to replacing my steel tube with a titanium one. I may even SBS this thing and drop down to 14” barrel. This is an impressively accurate gun: With a 2 MOA red dot and Truball slugs, I was making consistent spine box hits at 75 yards, and was hitting “minute of man” at 100. I was not truthfully not expecting that out of this gun. For my fellow lefties, you have to work on modifying manual of arms: While the safety can be swapped and things like combat reloads might be easier because of visibility into the bolt, other drills are not. For example, grabbing a round off of a chest rig to do a slug select can be tricky. You have to rotate the gun, tuck it into your armpit, use your left hand to current round and hold it open long enough to drop in the new slug. Anyway, it was a very eye opening experience for me. I’m still sore (birdshot didnt come in in time, so ran the entire course with buck and slugs) and a touch dehydrated, but well worth the time and energy.
  5. 4 points
    The SRO was developed by Trijicon to provide a purpose-built pistol red dot for competition, which the RMR is not. That’s why the SRO has a broader FOV and, most importantly for pistol users, the ability to change the battery without removing the entire optic (something you have to do with the RMR). However, Trijicon’s own reps have gone on record to say that the SRO isn’t built to the same durability standards as the RMR, since the taller glass is more prone to breakage. Before you make the call on an optic and mount, I would encourage you think about what your preferred sight picture is. I have a collapsible stock on my M4, and I find that with it set to my preferred LOP, the factory irons (which I believe the Sync can co-witness with) are actually too low for my taste. This is why I have an Aimpoint T2 on an ADM low mount using the factory pic rail. I find that that gives me the perfect sight picture. YMMV.
  6. 4 points
  7. 3 points
    Finally an easier solution for adding a Limbsaver to the Benelli M4 is available. This is significantly easier and requires fewer parts in the past assemblies of the 10111 model that required the Noveske adapter plate that is no longer sold. For this assembly we'll be using the Limbsaver 10403. This model has a raised lip on the inside of the buttpad that helps center the pad on the stock. First step is to remove the collapsible stock from your shotgun. You will then need to remove the factory buttpad by using a philips screw driver and inserting it in to the two small holes on the factory buttpad. Use a little oil or spit on the driver to help push it in. Push the driver in firmly as you unscrew the fasteners. Pull the buttpad away from the stock as you unscrew it. The screws will remain captive inside of the buttpad. Not the large hole roughly in the center of the stock. This is where the receiver extension passes thru the stock and in to the buttpad when the stock is in the fully collapsed position. The next step is to fit your buttpad to the stock. I had to purchase screws from the hardware store to make this buttpad work for this application. I used M4 machine screws, 0.7 thread pitch, 16mm in length. You will need two of them. The ones I bought use a 2.5mm allen head driver. Press the screws in to the Limbsaver buttpad through the two holes in the rubber. Use your driver to press since it will have to push past the rubber. They will snap in to place once seated. You'll see the threads sticking out of the bottom of the buttpad. Screw the buttpad on to the stock. Note the two holes top and bottom for accessing the screws. Now we need to make a hole in the plastic base of the buttpad for the receiver extension to pass in to. Now that you have the pad attached to the stock, you'll want to get a Sharpie marker with the cap off and drop it down the hole of the collapsible stock where the receiver extension goes. I use a silver one since it makes it easier to see the marks. I shake the stock around a little to get the marker to give me a witness mark as to where I am going to drill. Now remove the buttpad from the stock and check your witness marks. You should have something like this. You now know roughly where you need to drill your 7/8" hole. Rather than trying to bore that big of a hole in one pass, you'll have better luck starting small and moving up. I start with a 1/4" Forester bit and drill it out on a drill press. You do not want to drill all the way through the buttpad. You only want to drill through the plastic back which will open up to a void inside the buttpad. I suppose you could drill this out with a electric drill, but your quality of work is likely going to suffer. First hole is drilled. Take the pad and offer it back up to the stock. Look down the hole where the receiver extension goes down with a flash light and see how close to center your hole is to the hole you're looking down. I see that I'm a little off center to the right of the screen. No problem. Move to the next size up bit 3/8" and try to correct for the alignment. Continue through the 1/2, 5/8 and finally the 7/8 bit. Here is the end results. Clean out all the plastic debris from inside the buttpad and clean up the edges. I use a deburring tool but you don't have to get that fancy. Offer the buttpad up to the stock again and check to see if you can see the sides of the buttpad through the hole. You should be looking straight in to the hole drilled. If an edge is present, it will liely contact the receiver extension and prevent it from collapsing. You can hog out the hole slightly with no ill effects on performance. Finally offer up the stock with the buttpad screwed in place to the shotgun and see if the stock fully collapses. If it hangs up, you need to remove the offending area. If it fits, finalize the installation by applying some blue Loctite 243 to the screws then snug them up. No retard strength is needed. These threaded holes will strip easily if you muscle it. Use your fingers to hole the buttpad in alignment to the stock as you tighten it. There is a small amount of wiggle room in the pad that will allow you to even out the alignment. Make sure everything still fits after you've tightened the screws. The rubber of the Limbsaver will often times have a dried out look to it. You can rub some lubricant on the rubber with a rag and it will return it to a deep black finish. Limbsaver claims you'll see a 70% reduction in perceived recoil with these pads. That figure is a little optimistic. Realistically I'd say you'll see a 40% reduction.
  8. 3 points
    Or you could go lower profile: And a big advantage in that it already has a mounting solution.
  9. 3 points
    For the opposite side of the weapons light.
  10. 3 points
    The forum has been really slow lately, so I figured I'd try to add some content again. Recently I was contacted by a client to put together the ultimate Benelli M4 with a focus on reliability, and reduced perceived recoil. Cost is not a concern. The main goal was to have a shotgun built for home defense. So, with that said, here is the roughed out plan. The M4 is a 11707 model. It's an older version that has an aluminum trigger frame. The shotgun itself is brand new and never appears to have been fired. This is an 18.5" barreled model. Receiver Upgrades - Loading Port Modifications - GG&G Oversized Bolt Release - TTI Stainless Bolt Handle - FFT Reproduction Handguards Stippled by Tango Arms Stock Upgrades - Benelli M4 OEM Collapsible Stock - IWC MOE QD Sling Mount - Limbsaver 11011 Custom Fit with Noveski Adapter Plate Magazine Tube Assembly - Carriercomp Titanium Full Length Magazine Tube, internals polished - Carriercomp Magazine Follower (Old style with the red plastic indicator) - Carriercomp/Wolff Magazine Spring Trigger Pack - A&S Engineering Trigger Frame - FFT Trigger/Hammer/Disconnector Kit - FFT Shell Elevator - DMW Oversized Safety - Wolff Trigger Pack Spring Kit Sights and Optics - Scalarworks Sync Rail - Trijicon RMR Type 2, RM09 - 1moa dot size - Meprolight Night Sights Weapon Light Package - Surefire M600DF 1500 lumen output. - Impact Weapon Components Benelli M4 Light/Sling Mount - Surefire tailcap modified to remove the shroud Sling - BlueForceGear Padded QD Sling Refinish All parts are to be refinished in NP3 by Robar. Plastics will remain black. Items such as the lamp head on the weapon light will be painted to match the NP3 finish. The Trijicon RMR will be left alone. I received the shotgun on August 6, 2019. By August 7, 2019, the shotgun had been fully disassembled down to the smallest parts. Threaded parts were cleaned up chemically and with a wire wheel to remove any thread locker compound. Cleaning the parts up eats up a lot of time when done right. Even the bolt head is disassembled which is nearly an impossible task without some specialized tools. Getting that roll pin that holds the extractor claw out is almost an impossible task. You need a tiny curved punch in order to tap it out successfully. I disassembled his pistol grip stock so that the sling hardware and the installation screw inside the stock will all be plated in NP3 as well. As expected, the two screws that hold the rear sight in place are destroyed upon removal (the tip of the screw almost always breaks off.) I believe LPA stakes the top of the screw and creates that cupped shape. The nut that holds the front sight in place is a one time use item and will be replaced upon reassembly. This nut cannot be NP3 plated since it has a nylock insert. Small springs are bagged and tagged for reassembly. Some of them are confusing to know the difference by just looking at them. Springs like the one that holds the bolt handle detent and the extractor claw spring can be easily confused with ones from the trigger pack. I'll begin the loading port modifications once the A&S trigger frame arrives. I plan to go high, on the port, but not as high as Briley. I also plan to open the mouth more than Briley typically does. The entire loading port will be dehorned and there will not be a single sharp edge inside the mouth. Mine are all done by hand, so it is a little tedious. The owner supplied the carriercomp components, and the shipment from FFT arrived already. The handguards from FFT were mailed out to Tango Arms this morning. Will update with more as we move forward.
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    Had this happen on a 20ga. M2. Yeah, I tried the alcohol wipe-down. No joy. You could take a fingernail and bite into the plastic. I figured an improper mix/cure process on the material. Called Benelli. They sent me a new stock.
  13. 3 points
    There is a lot of extremely good comments and advice here, IMO. Deciding to arm yourself at home or concealed carry away from home is really a lifestyle change. That can sound overwhelming but it shouldn't deter you from taking the first step on the journey. Other than parroting what others have already said, my best advice is for you and your wife to do it together if you can; this should be easier because it will be new to the both of you and you won't have the typical scenario of the know-it-all husband telling the little wifey what she needs and how to do it. Do some research on gun shops and training in your local area and talk to people and co-workers. One word of caution though, don't buy a gun because someone told you it is what you or your wife needs. Rent guns at a local range and get training on how to use them. There are many examples of people thinking that a particular weapon is right for them only to try a few others that they like better because of fit, weight, caliber, recoil, operating system, etc. I am a member of US Concealed Carry Association (USCCA). They provide insurance for their members that are involved in a self defense shooting but they also have a great magazine and training to help you on this journey. I would definitely heed what Evolution said regarding what is a justified shoot. USCCA discusses this aspect of self-defense often. Obviously you've done a bit of research already as you know the M4 and are on this site. Nine .32 caliber pellets hitting a target at 1200+ feet per second is very lethal and the reason my M4 sits behind my bedroom door loaded with buck. But, I also have pistols stashed around the house and garage and another on my hip. Not to insult you here, but it is a common misperception that a shotgun doesn't need to be aimed and can be used effectively when shot form the hip. A shotgun is NOT a street sweeper unless your watching a movie with Doc Holiday in it. It HAS TO BE AIMED like any other long gun as the pattern of pellets will not spread like the movies would lead you to believe. 00 buckshot will pattern around the size of a baseball at 30' and roughly 12" at 75'. These numbers can and will vary but not enough to argue about when considering the topic. Do a little You-Tube/Googling on shotgun patterns to get a better feel for it. As it sounds like budget is not a huge obstacle for you, you might consider his and her weapons whether they be shotguns, handguns or a combination of both. As a matter of reference, I don't consider myself anything of an expert on guns. I'm not a big burly and bearded guy with punisher tattoos on my arms and I don't do sweaty black and white photo shoots for Guns & Ammo magazine. I'm just a firearms enthusiast and a student of self defense. I hope you and your wife start the journey and really enjoy the ride -- it can be very fun and addicting!
  14. 3 points
    I will agree that training is very important. Both you and your wife should pursue that. The M4 is an excellent choice for a home defense shotgun. It's probably a better choice than a pump because of inexperienced people short stroking the pump action and not feeding the next round in a rush. A semi auto would be more reliable when shooting quickly. As Stranger and Nails have said. Consider a handgun as well. The M4 is only good if you have it with you which is not very likely all the time as you move around your property. A handgun is easier to be carried always. There are many small 9mm semi autos to choose from. Spend time at a range where they also sell and you can try different models with your wife. Select what feels right and seems intuitive to shoot. I would suggest looking at the Sig P365 MS (manual safety) which is small and easy to carry around,. Another good choice is the Glock 19, though it's larger. It just depends on what you like and what she likes. Regardless of what you decide, training and understanding Situational Awareness (like Don said) is very important. You do not want a weapon to become a liability instead of an asset.
  15. 3 points
    Check your local community for firearms courses of instruction on "home defense". Many shooting ranges/academies/centers provide classes covering protecting your family and home. Your spouse can attend to learn, as well. Most "Home Defense" courses of instruction will cover firearm types, techniques and tactics, as well as, safe room setup, surveillance, and the most important item being maintaining Situational Awareness.
  16. 3 points
    The M4 will fire that crappy Walmart valuepack 2 3/4 birdshot all day long if you want. Gun store commando trying to sell you what he has on hand.
  17. 3 points
    My M4 looks just like any other right now, but the custom case with a benelli flashlight and a interestingly gripped knife with a matching serial number is pretty unique. The only downside is the case is a bit oversized, and the foam isn’t cut in a way that permits adding an RMR, a light, or a stock with an adjustable length of pull so I might have to buy another pelican case.
  18. 3 points
    Benelli would be happy to sell you a model with all the evil features. Unfortunately too many people vote Democrat and they threw a bunch of feel good useless laws in the way. Then you have a bunch of cuck Republicans that go along with their crap. Don’t think too much about having to buy parts just to get the features you want. Think more along the lines that you’re upgrading your bad ass shotgun. If my M4 came with a full length OEM steel mag tube, I’d be buying a Carriercomp anyway for the other benefits.
  19. 3 points
    15,000 rounds later and a mix of Nickel Boron and NP3 plated parts with a surface layer of burnt bronze Cerakote. Due to the ongoing crisis, I decided it would be a good time to clean the M4. I have just been shooting more oil in to the M4 for the past two years or so. It's ate about 2,500 rounds in that period of time without any failures. I decided to delete the iron sights from my M4 since they obstruct the view of the optic. My Intellibeam weapon light is off being painted for the past month or so, so I'm roughing it with my 500 lumen M600C head that was painted previously. The bolt carrier group and trigger group is all NP3.
  20. 3 points
    I'm a fan of the velcro systems over the hard mounted ones. The velcro ones weigh less and crush flat when not in use. I didn't care for how stiff it was to pull the shells from the Mesa one either.
  21. 3 points
    RPC - Epic story of your loving wife! I like your build but curious about the light and its operation. Looks like an end-cap switch. Have you run the gun with HD loads and manipulated the light as you might in a HD situation? Do you change your thumb position to switch the light then back to more of a standard grip? Just wondering about the ease of operation and if the bezel around the end cap digs into your thumb during recoil. Would a remote tape switch be better? I guess this question would make for a new topic.
  22. 3 points
    I almost died by a bear attack, I live up north where the big ones roam.. I knew a 12ga slug was a great choice for bear protection and carried a Mossberg pump action and practiced with it regularly. At the time I was against a semi-auto shotgun because I had convinced myself that simple was better,.. and who in there right mind would pay $2000 for a shotgun!? 😏 I woke up covered in moss and fresh pungent soil. My breathing was raspy as though I had flim that I couldn't quite cough up. I couldn't see out of my left eye and I could smell and taste that distinctive iodiney smell of blood. My heart pounded back alive with a great rush of adrenaline as I started to recall what had happened to me and where I currently was.... I was buried alive, by a bear. You see, a bear wont usually eat something its killed right away, it will bury it and come back to it later after it has ripened up a bit. This knowledge was flooding through my brain faster than the speed of light as I lay there contemplating my next move. I've told this story over and over again now thousands of times and I've come to realize that we; the bear and I, were playing a chess game of sorts. He made his move by hunting me down and attacking me, I countered his move by a misplaced shotgun slug due to adrenaline followed by a short-stroke of my shotgun leaving me with nothing but a "click" of the trigger when it really needed to count. The bear did what he does best and I assumed the fetal position playing dead until I couldn't stand the pain any longer of him ripping off a but cheek and almost removing my left foot. I blacked out. I didnt realize just how comfortable I was in this makeshift early grave until I decided to move. The pain was unlike anything Id ever experienced before and I let out a grown that didn't even sound like it came from me. Now,..back to the chess part..... This entire time the bear was sitting a few feat away so as I had just got my first breath of "dirt nap" freedom the all to familiar crunching sound of bear teeth on my skull was back again....actually this whole story is made up for your enjoyment...the reason I purchased a m4 is because I got tired of my m3 jamming. have a good day gents. Picture my camera took during the attack ...Im on bottom..
  23. 3 points
    I plan on it. Nothing else to put it on. I liked my MRO on my SBE II so much I put one in my M4 as well.
  24. 3 points
    Funny you should ask, this particular seminal fluid collector was made by our very own resident engineer and horse whisperer. Word has it he's one hell of a Nerf-gun painter too!
  25. 3 points
    CTL seems really promising. They're the ones who were actually doing Robar's plating. So if you like it, you'll like their product. I'm setting up under my FFL to be a processor/dealer for them. I don't think they intend to accept firearms from the general public, but their dealers will be able to act as a middleman. It doesn't seem like they'll have any gunsmithing services for complex disassembly. If this all shakes out, I'll gladly accept shipments as I've done for years and be that middle man who can tear it down and reassemble it properly.
  26. 2 points
    ordered my tube from cc june 3, got a email from kip yesterday saying should be ready end of august or first week of sept. their finishing up a group of orders and i'm in the next group of orders. don't mind the wait, just hoping there isn't another shut down that might delay it.
  27. 2 points
    Sorry you didn't get what you apparently ordered but those slugs are my preference over the 1600FPS stuff. I have some of the 1600 FPS stuff on hand but, for general shooting purposes and HD, the 1300 FPS stuff is the ticket. You can shoot those all day long. The 1600's are hard kicking, even in an M4.
  28. 2 points
    The parts that have broken on me and that I now carry spares for are: Carrier Latch and Bolt Handle.
  29. 2 points
    www.ammoseek.com is your friend. Showing a handful of vendors with Federal Truball slugs.
  30. 2 points
    Are you sure the width of the hammer is the issue? A hammer disconnector hook that is too tall can hold the hammer back like the picture you posted – but you will NOT be able to pull the hammer back up the correct position after cocking the hammer. If you CAN pull the hammer up into the correct “cocked” position then the “too wide” diagnosis is probably the right one. Coat the hammer with a black or blue Sharpie marker then install it. Functioning the hammer a few cycles will wear the marker color and show you where any contact is occurring.
  31. 2 points
    There goes the NP3 plating.
  32. 2 points
    That's kinda where I'm at now. I figure $45 isn't a lot compared to how much I've already spent on this gun haha
  33. 2 points
    I know it sounds odd but that's what I used. I didn't actually cut, it was more of a scraping. I gently wore down the flash line from the casting along the 2 long edges of the sling slot. Very little needed to be removed for the clearance I needed. At first I was going to use a very small flat file but I was concerned that it would be too aggressive and leave marks.
  34. 2 points
    Shout out to Carrier Comp for their communication and quality! Nice work matching the midnight bronze. Removal of the stock mag tube was easy as there was only a small amount of red thread locker applied at the factory.
  35. 2 points
    DFWSFO, Just wanted to offer my sincerest thanks for your help and taking the time to post on this subject and offer an alternative. I appreciate your willingness to spend some time and trying to help me resolve my concern. Thank you. I decided to go with the ScalerWorks mount and the RMO6. My M4’s primary role is home defense and although I don’t like the co-witness view it just seemed to make more sense given my desire to have the iron sights readily and immediately accessible In the event of an (albeit rare) optic failure.
  36. 2 points
    Yes buy with confidence. I purchase a lot from them after I bought a thermal unit from a guy that works there. I currently have a couple of backorders there now.
  37. 2 points
    thanks, have had a 870 tactical for a few years, got my m4 6 months ago ,it's just a joy to shoot and i'm 66 years old.. and have a range in my backyard.. live in the woods of northern wisconsin.
  38. 2 points
    I don't consider myself qualified to recommend a particular weapon to anyone for self defense but, I will mention one thing though. Not implying anything here, but trespassing, or theft, or breaking into cars are not grounds for shooting a person, EVER. I only mention it because it seems from your post that those are the things that have got you thinking about purchasing a weapon. StrangerDanger's posts in this thread is the best advice.
  39. 2 points
  40. 2 points
    Drill/tap a blind hole about .250” deep. (Don't drill all the way through – that can weaken the attachment of the stud to the shell latch.)
  41. 2 points
    I have a M300 on my 590 and a M600 scout on my M4. Honestly, the M600 does not seem to have twice the lumen output @ 1000 vs 500 for the M300. It's brighter but, not twice as much. Anyway, I think the scout line are fantastic lights, bombproof.
  42. 2 points
    I forgot to mention, Democrats get to pay double the listed price in order to pay their fair share.
  43. 2 points
    Glad you got it worked out op
  44. 2 points
    I recently got an m4/mag upgrade and dealt with the 6 rounds problem. I could only fit 7 with target loads, 6 with everything else. I'm spamming the top googled threads with this reply because got sick of being told it's about shell length and unfixable, or I have to cut my spring to fix it. I could never find a thread that just gave me a clear answer about an easy spring swap or anything else that worked. I'm blown away by how hard it was to find a clear answer on this simple topic. The fix? I replaced the factory spring with a wolff m4 spring from freedom fighter tactical and it went from being a half inch away from holding 7, to holding 7 of anything 2 3/4" long. It's tight, but mine holds 7 of everything now. This isn't meant to be an ad for wolff, as there may be others out there that would fix the problem, but it worked for me and should for you. Non-target-load 2 3/4in shells are longer and that's a fact, but assuming your m4 parts are the same dimensions as mine which they should be, your M4 WILL hold 7+2 if you get the spring replaced. I hope I can bring a few people's blood pressure down if you are dealing with the same problem and as frustrated as me with the threads full of non answers out there.
  45. 2 points
    Glad I could help! I’m surprised there aren’t more tutorial based threads on forums. The ones I do find skip over the pain in the ass parts and leave you to assume how to get from point B to C to D. I end up looking at my own posts to remember how I did certain things in the past. I never liked the YouTube based tutorials since I found them to be too fast and hard to navigate. Plus I’d had to sit there and talk thru the video. If we can keep the photo hosting up, there should be no real issues in keeping these active for years to come.
  46. 2 points
    Hi Benelli lover Here my benelli m4 project really love how it’s look really stocked just recently received after a long wait Lots of love in this project Big thanks to Casey at Tactical Ordonance for the awesome work lets the pics talk still missing my sling ,follower ,light
  47. 2 points
    If you put that made in Italy Benelli magazine extension on your M4 you will need at least three 'Made in the USA' parts added otherwise you'll be in violation of 922(r) (if you have a C stock instead of a fixed stock you will need a total of four 'Made in the USA' parts) - i.e. unless you're not the least bit concerned about 922(r) compliance. FYI, that Benelli magazine extension is steel, just like the OEM magazine tube and Dave's Metal Works full length magazine tube so you'd be spending an additional $50 just to have the Benelli name (which is nowhere to be seen on the extension itself) AND it will appear pieced together rather than the way a M4 should look. Why pay an additional $50 for that?? A M4 looks so much better with a full length mag tube instead of a pieced together mag tube.
  48. 2 points
    I have completed the first batch of 922(r) compliant hammers for the M4 (though I think that also fits the M1, M2, M3). These are rolled plate tool steel, wire EDM cut, and NiB coated for smoothness. laser engraved to identify them as US made. Price is $85 with free delivery. These are not 'exact' copies of the factory. There were two issues I saw with OEM that I addressed: 1. When cocked with my finger off the trigger, the hammer could hang up on the trigger body before the sears came fully into contact. I'll make a video, but it meant there was a click when you touched the trigger, as the hammer popped fully into position. I fixed that. 2. When dry cycling, I got the hammer to drop as it was resetting. It only happened once or twice, but I added a little meat to the sear to make the handoff more reliable. As mentioned above, I added NiB coating, which smooths pull and might reduce pull weight slightly - though I have not measured how much. Also, I've come up with a version that makes it into a 2-stage trigger. At this stage, pull weight is slightly higher, though this is a work in progress as I explore if there is a demand, and how custom springs can remedy it. 2-stage is typically not sought after in shotgun. I don't think it will reduce effectiveness, but it might not be a benefit, so we'll see.
  49. 2 points
    https://www.j-kenny.com/installation/ also here is the install video. Might help
  50. 2 points
    There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads sufficiently to break the thread locker. Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following: Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process. To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heatgun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is common thread. The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent wrench. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the locktite's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the recoil tube. Now time for the hard part. Continue to apply heat to the recoil tube threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the recoil tube to apply torque. These are also common thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heatgun to break the locktite compounds hold. Note the depth that the recoil tube is screwed into the receiver. Also be aware that this item must be timed to index the stock in an appropriate direction. Once the recoil tube unscrews, clean up the threads with acetone or another solvent. A wirebrush will help. To reassemble, screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. Thread the locknut over the recoil tube assembly and screw it flush with the receiver. Add the collapsible stock to the tail to act as an index to help time the recoil tube assembly. Once you've indexed it to where you want it, tighten the locknut. What I recommend is installing the collapsible stock at this time, and collapsing it fully. Use the cheek weld piece of the collapsible stock as an index point. Point the cheek weld so it points to the middle of the rear iron sight housing. Once you have it where you want, tighten the locknut. I highly recommend reapplying locktite to the recoil tube and the locknut. Even if you simply use the blue type. The recoil tube extension is pretty easy to screw in. You can do it by hand. Reinstall the internals of the recoil tube. Drop the plunger in, followed by the spring. Press the spring in and retain it with a punch or screwdriver. Screw in the spring plug. Reinstall the snap ring. Install your stock. Hopefully this tutorial is clear. The times needed to run the heatgun are accurate. Prop the weapon up so you can leave the heat on it and just sit by and watch.
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