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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Hello everyone We have identified 3 companies we will be Partnering with for our metal finishes for the Firearms Industry. The losing of The Robar Companies inc. did not effect any of our OEM accounts , we still have many companies that have been sending us parts for metal finish, Robar (being in the same building) was the only gunsmith shop that was allowed to do firearms directly with us. We will be letting everyone know soon where they can send their firearms and parts to for all our metal finishes.
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    Glad to see that manual on my G-Drive is of use to people! 😊
  4. 4 points
    “Carrier Loading” (aka Ghost Loading). See page 24 of the USMC M1014 manual LINK to USMC M1014 manual
  5. 3 points
    RPC - Epic story of your loving wife! I like your build but curious about the light and its operation. Looks like an end-cap switch. Have you run the gun with HD loads and manipulated the light as you might in a HD situation? Do you change your thumb position to switch the light then back to more of a standard grip? Just wondering about the ease of operation and if the bezel around the end cap digs into your thumb during recoil. Would a remote tape switch be better? I guess this question would make for a new topic.
  6. 3 points
    I almost died by a bear attack, I live up north where the big ones roam.. I knew a 12ga slug was a great choice for bear protection and carried a Mossberg pump action and practiced with it regularly. At the time I was against a semi-auto shotgun because I had convinced myself that simple was better,.. and who in there right mind would pay $2000 for a shotgun!? 😏 I woke up covered in moss and fresh pungent soil. My breathing was raspy as though I had flim that I couldn't quite cough up. I couldn't see out of my left eye and I could smell and taste that distinctive iodiney smell of blood. My heart pounded back alive with a great rush of adrenaline as I started to recall what had happened to me and where I currently was.... I was buried alive, by a bear. You see, a bear wont usually eat something its killed right away, it will bury it and come back to it later after it has ripened up a bit. This knowledge was flooding through my brain faster than the speed of light as I lay there contemplating my next move. I've told this story over and over again now thousands of times and I've come to realize that we; the bear and I, were playing a chess game of sorts. He made his move by hunting me down and attacking me, I countered his move by a misplaced shotgun slug due to adrenaline followed by a short-stroke of my shotgun leaving me with nothing but a "click" of the trigger when it really needed to count. The bear did what he does best and I assumed the fetal position playing dead until I couldn't stand the pain any longer of him ripping off a but cheek and almost removing my left foot. I blacked out. I didnt realize just how comfortable I was in this makeshift early grave until I decided to move. The pain was unlike anything Id ever experienced before and I let out a grown that didn't even sound like it came from me. Now,..back to the chess part..... This entire time the bear was sitting a few feat away so as I had just got my first breath of "dirt nap" freedom the all to familiar crunching sound of bear teeth on my skull was back again....actually this whole story is made up for your enjoyment...the reason I purchased a m4 is because I got tired of my m3 jamming. have a good day gents. Picture my camera took during the attack ...Im on bottom..
  7. 3 points
    I plan on it. Nothing else to put it on. I liked my MRO on my SBE II so much I put one in my M4 as well.
  8. 3 points
    Funny you should ask, this particular seminal fluid collector was made by our very own resident engineer and horse whisperer. Word has it he's one hell of a Nerf-gun painter too!
  9. 3 points
    CTL seems really promising. They're the ones who were actually doing Robar's plating. So if you like it, you'll like their product. I'm setting up under my FFL to be a processor/dealer for them. I don't think they intend to accept firearms from the general public, but their dealers will be able to act as a middleman. It doesn't seem like they'll have any gunsmithing services for complex disassembly. If this all shakes out, I'll gladly accept shipments as I've done for years and be that middle man who can tear it down and reassemble it properly.
  10. 2 points
    Shoot it, it's made to shoot.
  11. 2 points
    So are you going to pin the stock so it can't telescope? Otherwise, under current California law, you would be manufacturing and possessing an unregistered assault weapon by having a semi auto shotgun with a pistol grip and telescoping stock.
  12. 2 points
    Just checked FFT. Yep, they’re selling them and they have a better picture of the tube. Those notches definitely won’t fit the M4 collapsible stock.
  13. 2 points
    Some folks have flush mounted QD sling docks into the stock, accessing the work area via the buttpad cavity. There have also been folks who have installed a QD sling dock plate in place of the existing flat sling loop, however they indicated there was a fair amount of "gunsmithing" type work involved as that part of the firearm is not very service friendly.
  14. 2 points
    Glad you got it worked out op
  15. 2 points
    The money you payed has nothing to do with it! You bought it, you broke it, you have it fixed. That’s the real world...
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    Walked into my local shop over 10 years ago to pick up my M1A, and I’ll never forget the desert camo M4 I saw on the shelf. Big bucks ! Timing wasn’t right for the purchase back then, but I instantly fell in love with it and told myself that I would definitely have one, one day. After all that time, I never forgot about my favorite shotgun and finally was able to pull the trigger on one, earlier this year. Now, thanks to this great forum, I’m doing more modding on this thing than shooting ! An expensive addiction, but only the best for us.
  18. 2 points
    I started reading reviews on Shotguns. I wasn't looking at Auto Loaders at first. But the more I read, the more I kinda wanted an auto if it was reliable enough. Most of the reviews compared everything to Benelli M4 reliability. It took me some time to suck up the buy once cry once deal of getting a Benelli M4. Why buy something "almost" as good as a Benelli? p.s. the bear attack story sucked me in like a MOFO...
  19. 2 points
    The pirate had me going. I thought Ken was going to show up and interject an, “Ackchyually...” and school us on how to fight off a polar bear with his German musk.
  20. 2 points
    You've got a cool wife you lucky dog (so long as that's not a made up story like the bear attack story).
  21. 2 points
    Like SD, I owned a 121M1 beginning in '86 and ultimately owned three of those. Loved that shotgun, however by '09 I decided that due to lack of support (i.e. spare parts) it was time to let someone else enjoy the 121M1 and picked up my first M4. I've always appreciated Benelli autoloaders for their reliability and ease of operation under stressfire. It's extremely easy to short stroke a pump shotgun under stressfire especially if you're in shock due to injury. BTDT r
  22. 2 points
    Growing up in the 90's, I had a M121 Benelli that had a full length magazine tube and a pistol grip. Somehow I got myself signed up for a a mailing list with Benelli. In the propaganda, they started showing photos of the Benelli M4 which was being tested by the Marine Corps at Aberdeen. Obviously it looked awesome and the ARGO system sounded promising. At the time it wasn't released to the public in America. At some point they released the M1014 to the public in its limited 2,500 run with its non-functioning collapsible stock. A while later, the 11703 model was released. This had a ill fated four port barrel and the same neutered receiver extension. This model came with the pistol grip stock and was generally cheaper than the limited edition. In 2004 I cashed out a bunch of vacation time and bought it for 1,350.00 from gunbroker. I promptly broke the shotgun firing high base loads through that horrible 4 port design. Shotgun went back to Benelli for repairs. I then broke it again since that barrel battered the bolt carrier to the point that it was peening the face of the bolt carrier from the pistons. Back to Benelli again where they replace the bolt carrier, the barrel with a 2 port design and the handguards. I then figured out how to replace the receiver extension with a 11707 models and added a collapsible stock. So I pretty much took the longest road possible to making a 11707.
  23. 2 points
    I didn't especially like the idea of bear defense with a bolt action rifle or pump shotgun. Did some research and decided the m4 seemed like the most reliable system for the loads I would be using... and the rest (and another m4 and an m3) is history
  24. 2 points
    Thought you all might get a kick out of this. I'm making an M4 charging handle (well, likely several varieties). Stem will be case-hard steel for wear, while the handle will be aluminum for weight savings. Here is a video of the threads being cut (I love my CNC lathe), as well as some 'nearly complete' parts. Picture Video 2019-12-06 17.49.13.mov
  25. 2 points
    Welcome! Hide your wallet.
  26. 2 points
    I was on leave for a while and hadn't paid much attention to this forum. HOWEVER, I got caught up today and was laughing at his arrogance, kind demeanor, communication skills and overall superior intellect! Of course I noticed this when he first joined and could only say, WOW?! It looks like the herd finally turned on him and your clever and humorous responses had me giggling. I only have one regret, I wanted to buy some butt-ugly hand painted glossy cammo stocks for my next build. I already have a leather codpiece, thank you. Oh the sheer sorrow. Or is it shear? Or Cher? Oh, ROFL, ROFL!! Should I really hit send...?
  27. 2 points
    Wright Armory seemed like they would do simple stuff and had some gunsmithing service options. I'm not sure if they'd be willing to disassemble the M4 since a few areas are a specialty area. Areas like removing the receiver extension from the receiver. I sent a bunch of titanium parts in, so hopefully they just do it like they have in the past. That's my hope is that they just don't warranty the work. I was quoted 2-5 weeks, which is significantly faster than Robar was at 12-16 weeks. We'll see if that's legit.
  28. 2 points
    Since there was a few that didn't like the choice of optic I had on my M4 I upgraded it to a new one.Hope this is better.
  29. 2 points
    😂 love karma posts like this.
  30. 2 points
    This is my favorite setup for a right handed user. Note the connector on the stock is on the ejection port side. Rear Sling Mount: https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-rotation-limited-buttstock-sling-mount-n-slot/ Front Sling Mount: https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/multi-light-benelli-m4-mount-scout/ Sling: https://www.blueforcegear.com/slings/custom-sling-builders Since the Ava Tactical weapon Light mount isn't available anymore as shown in the picture, I'd recommend using the IWC light/sling mount. It will work just as well. I like the BlueForceGear padded QD sling with sewn in connectors. They have lots of color options to pick from. I recommend mounting the rear connector on the ejection port side if you're right handed. Having the sling loop to the outside will help control roll. It'll keep the sling from bunching up when shouldering the shotgun. Having the connector on the inside would poke me when I'd have the shotgun slung on my back. Previously I would have issues where the sling would prevent me from getting the stock in to the pocket of my shoulder. With it wrapped to the outside, this isn't an issue anymore. I started slinging my rifles the same way now.
  31. 2 points
    You wouldn't change your position no matter what amount of evidence was given, so why bother? Telling you about the M4s' with 10,000 rounds of high base through them with EOTech 552's would be a waste of time. Or the 100+ Benelli M4's that have come thru my shop for work in various configurations. So why argue? You can do as you like.
  32. 2 points
    If you put that made in Italy Benelli magazine extension on your M4 you will need at least three 'Made in the USA' parts added otherwise you'll be in violation of 922(r) (if you have a C stock instead of a fixed stock you will need a total of four 'Made in the USA' parts) - i.e. unless you're not the least bit concerned about 922(r) compliance. FYI, that Benelli magazine extension is steel, just like the OEM magazine tube and Dave's Metal Works full length magazine tube so you'd be spending an additional $50 just to have the Benelli name (which is nowhere to be seen on the extension itself) AND it will appear pieced together rather than the way a M4 should look. Why pay an additional $50 for that?? A M4 looks so much better with a full length mag tube instead of a pieced together mag tube.
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    Im sorry if no one has gotten back to you yet. Please email me at [email protected] with your contact information and i will add you to the email list.
  35. 2 points
    I have completed the first batch of 922(r) compliant hammers for the M4 (though I think that also fits the M1, M2, M3). These are rolled plate tool steel, wire EDM cut, and NiB coated for smoothness. laser engraved to identify them as US made. Price is $85 with free delivery. These are not 'exact' copies of the factory. There were two issues I saw with OEM that I addressed: 1. When cocked with my finger off the trigger, the hammer could hang up on the trigger body before the sears came fully into contact. I'll make a video, but it meant there was a click when you touched the trigger, as the hammer popped fully into position. I fixed that. 2. When dry cycling, I got the hammer to drop as it was resetting. It only happened once or twice, but I added a little meat to the sear to make the handoff more reliable. As mentioned above, I added NiB coating, which smooths pull and might reduce pull weight slightly - though I have not measured how much. Also, I've come up with a version that makes it into a 2-stage trigger. At this stage, pull weight is slightly higher, though this is a work in progress as I explore if there is a demand, and how custom springs can remedy it. 2-stage is typically not sought after in shotgun. I don't think it will reduce effectiveness, but it might not be a benefit, so we'll see.
  36. 2 points
    Here is a 1911 done in Slick Shot that I found. The guy that had it done said that he has firearms done in NP3 as well. It's his opinion that it's little more gray and NP3 is a little more silver. However, he feels that they are both similar in durability and lubricity.
  37. 2 points
    I have this set and they’re worth every cent. All of the various benefits SD mentions, haven’t yet found a use that this kit didn’t meet.
  38. 2 points
    The Browning A5 is factory designed to auto load. If you saw a Benelli or Stoeger with the auto load feature here in the USA the gun probably had the modification done by MOA Precision, they've had the parts available since early this year (2019). I have one on my RAS Benelli M2. The auto load feature allows you to shoot the gun to empty/bolt locked back, then you can insert shell(s) into the magazine tube and the first shell will automatically exit the mag tube and the action closes and “auto loads” the shell into the chamber. Here is a video demonstrating with my Benelli M2. Benelli Auto Load with MOA Precision parts
  39. 2 points
    NiB is much better for triggers than NP3. Teflon will not stand up to the high pressures generated on sear edges. NiB is upwards of 70Rc hardness. That said, DLC is even lower friction, so I've been curious to experiment - maybe this is the project. Not sure about charging handles, I know how to make good triggers, and it seems everyone and his brother is making charging handles because it does not take much skill. What is your definition of 'badass' when it comes to charging handles? Is there something that other options do not offer>
  40. 2 points
    "Not sure why anyone would need a ghost ring on a shotgun anyway, but I'm sure someone on this forum will explain it to me!" OK, I'll try. A ghost ring is designed for a quick acquisition accurate shot at longer ranges than normal shotgun shot ranges such as turkey hunting and taking out dirtbags beyond grenade-throw ranges. The eye tends to automatically line up the front sight in the middle of the rear ring, making for a quicker shot. At least, that's the theory. While a ghost ring set obviously isn't optimal for clays shooting (you won't find pics of Kim Rhode shooting a GR-equipped O/U in the olympics), I've pounded thousands of orange discs over the years with my older M1 with GR sights. Since you're supposed to be looking at the bird with both eyes open and not the sights, I've never found the rear sight interfering with my ability to track the target. But hey, that's just me.
  41. 2 points
    Hopefully you have a padded vice block or you can use a thick rag. You need to stage the receiver so that you aren’t lighting your rag on fire or the rubber blocks. Email me at [email protected] I’ll give you my number and we can text if that helps.
  42. 2 points
    Just saw this. You want to take the internal parts out of the installed receiver extension so you aren’t heating the spring and lubricant inside. When I put the receiver in the vice, I have the shotgun upside down with the trigger guard up. I clamp on beneath the rear sight and be sure not to smash the trigger group pin. You want the receiver stripped of all parts. Stock and barrel should be out. Youll be applying heat for about 45 seconds at a time. Then slip the 27mm wrench over the lock nut and give it a try. Don’t put a lot of torque on it. You want the heat to do its job. When it doesn’t budge, put more heat on it mainly focusing on the base of the old receiver extension. Then try the wrench again. You’ll see the nut turn a few degrees then get stuck. Apply more heat and try again until it has been removed. Once the nut is free, focus on the receiver extension. Apply more heat and use a 18 or 19mm wrench on the flats of the receiver extension down at the bottom of the extension. You need to keep track of how many full rotations it takes to remove the extension so that you can install the new one at the same depth.
  43. 2 points
    Just make sure you don't remove much material. If you make it too loose, the stock will be able to tighten and untighten to the extent of how much you've opened up the notch. You want it to be tight. Extra care should be taken timing the stock. Even being slightly out of alignment can cause interference.
  44. 2 points
    The color match is better on the carriercomp tubes. Carriercomp tunes are cheaper. FFT often has wait times lately too.
  45. 2 points
    The M4 is pretty drop safe. I was concerned about the design years ago. So I unloaded it and repeatedly bounced the gun on the carpet in various angles to try to get the hammer to fall. It never happened. You’d need to throw it hard enough for the trigger to be pulled in order for the hammer to drop I don’t think you could shock the hammer to get past the trigger hook or the disconnector if it rebounded enough. What I use the safety. Round in the chamber, magazine topped off. I don’t mess with ghost loading since I’ve seen it cause malfunctions. I use a larger DMW safety that I can feel poke my trigger finger when the safety is engaged. It’s instant feedback to know its condition. I also trim 1.5 coils from the spring so that I can press the safety without breaking my firing grip. It’s still firm to press, but not factory straining firm. As a certified firearms instructor, I should add some comments about safe storage. I’d urge everyone to store their firearms in some kind of safe even if you don’t have children. A cousin of mine when he was 3-4 went to someone’s house who didn’t have children and they had the shotgun leaned against the back of a door. No one thought of the gun and he went and grabbed it being young and not knowing any better. He pressed the trigger and the shotgun discharged thru the roof right next to his head. He was fine, but it could have easily not been. The only victim that day was the sheet rock in that guy’s trailer along with his pride. There are a bunch of cool high speed locking systems out there now with biometrics and back up PIN numbers. They have them for rifle and shotgun storage now, not just pistols. They’re not meant to protect against theft, they’re meant to keep the firearm out of unauthorized users’ hands and keep them accessible to you if needed. From a training perspective, if the firearm has been out of your immediate control for any length of time, should you trust that it is still in the condition you left it in? No one wants to spend a couple hundred bucks on a lock box. Most of them suck anyway, but what if you got one that presented the pistol grip to you so you could draw it easily with the trigger guard covered? Sweeping a loaded pistol off a night stand in the dark can be a safety issue. Did the cat jump on it and move the way you position it? Depending where you live can add another layer of culpability if an unauthorized user gets ahold of one of your firearms. Even if they’re a burglar. Having at least this second layer of protection will help keep you out of trouble when LaShawn steals your gun and smokes the cashier at the Stop & Rob.
  46. 2 points
    I haven't had good luck with a heatgun on any of the newer M4's. I tried for two hours on one once and got nowhere. The MAPP torch is the way to go. It only takes about 3 - 4 minutes to break the factory thread locker down. You can use the existing locknut which is 27mm on the new receiver extension.
  47. 2 points
    Would be glad to help. If you want to tackle it yourself, it is something that you could be walked through. It will require heat to get the existing receiver extension off. I use a MAPP torch which is pretty inexpensive and safe to use.
  48. 2 points
    I contacted Briley a month or so ago and they were hoping to have them in a month or so... hopefully soon I did as about 922r and was told this "Yes, All the materials used: steel, titanium, aluminum extrusions, aluminum bar stock, carbon and all machining is USA made. " They are also planning a full length carbon fiber magazine tube... not sure how I feel about that
  49. 2 points
    The M4 is not "drop safe". When the safety is engaged, it merely blocks the trigger from being pulled. The sear or the hammer for that matter, is not captured in any way to prevent the hammer from falling should the gun receive a violent blow. I never keep a round chambered, I maintain a full magazine and one on the shell carrier when in home defense mode.
  50. 2 points
    There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads sufficiently to break the thread locker. Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following: Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process. To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heatgun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is common thread. The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent wrench. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the locktite's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the recoil tube. Now time for the hard part. Continue to apply heat to the recoil tube threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the recoil tube to apply torque. These are also common thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heatgun to break the locktite compounds hold. Note the depth that the recoil tube is screwed into the receiver. Also be aware that this item must be timed to index the stock in an appropriate direction. Once the recoil tube unscrews, clean up the threads with acetone or another solvent. A wirebrush will help. To reassemble, screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. Thread the locknut over the recoil tube assembly and screw it flush with the receiver. Add the collapsible stock to the tail to act as an index to help time the recoil tube assembly. Once you've indexed it to where you want it, tighten the locknut. What I recommend is installing the collapsible stock at this time, and collapsing it fully. Use the cheek weld piece of the collapsible stock as an index point. Point the cheek weld so it points to the middle of the rear iron sight housing. Once you have it where you want, tighten the locknut. I highly recommend reapplying locktite to the recoil tube and the locknut. Even if you simply use the blue type. The recoil tube extension is pretty easy to screw in. You can do it by hand. Reinstall the internals of the recoil tube. Drop the plunger in, followed by the spring. Press the spring in and retain it with a punch or screwdriver. Screw in the spring plug. Reinstall the snap ring. Install your stock. Hopefully this tutorial is clear. The times needed to run the heatgun are accurate. Prop the weapon up so you can leave the heat on it and just sit by and watch.
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