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I have this set and they’re worth every cent. All of the various benefits SD mentions, haven’t yet found a use that this kit didn’t meet.

https://www.j-kenny.com/installation/ also here is the install video. Might help

The forum has been really slow lately, so I figured I'd try to add some content again. Recently I was contacted by a client to put together the ultimate Benelli M4 with a focus on reliability, and reduced perceived recoil. Cost is not a concern. The main goal was to have a shotgun built for home defense. So, with that said, here is the roughed out plan. The M4 is a 11707 model. It's an older version that has an aluminum trigger frame. The shotgun itself is brand new and never appears to have been fired. This is an 18.5" barreled model. Receiver Upgrades - Loading Port Modifications - GG&G Oversized Bolt Release - TTI Stainless Bolt Handle - FFT Reproduction Handguards Stippled by Tango Arms Stock Upgrades - Benelli M4 OEM Collapsible Stock - IWC MOE QD Sling Mount - Limbsaver 11011 Custom Fit with Noveski Adapter Plate Magazine Tube Assembly - Carriercomp Titanium Full Length Magazine Tube, internals polished - Carriercomp Magazine Follower (Old style with the red plastic indicator) - Carriercomp/Wolff Magazine Spring Trigger Pack - A&S Engineering Trigger Frame - FFT Trigger/Hammer/Disconnector Kit - FFT Shell Elevator - DMW Oversized Safety - Wolff Trigger Pack Spring Kit Sights and Optics - Scalarworks Sync Rail - Trijicon RMR Type 2, RM09 - 1moa dot size - Meprolight Night Sights Weapon Light Package - Surefire M600DF 1500 lumen output. - Impact Weapon Components Benelli M4 Light/Sling Mount - Surefire tailcap modified to remove the shroud Sling - BlueForceGear Padded QD Sling Refinish All parts are to be refinished in NP3 by Robar. Plastics will remain black. Items such as the lamp head on the weapon light will be painted to match the NP3 finish. The Trijicon RMR will be left alone. I received the shotgun on August 6, 2019. By August 7, 2019, the shotgun had been fully disassembled down to the smallest parts. Threaded parts were cleaned up chemically and with a wire wheel to remove any thread locker compound. Cleaning the parts up eats up a lot of time when done right. Even the bolt head is disassembled which is nearly an impossible task without some specialized tools. Getting that roll pin that holds the extractor claw out is almost an impossible task. You need a tiny curved punch in order to tap it out successfully. I disassembled his pistol grip stock so that the sling hardware and the installation screw inside the stock will all be plated in NP3 as well. As expected, the two screws that hold the rear sight in place are destroyed upon removal (the tip of the screw almost always breaks off.) I believe LPA stakes the top of the screw and creates that cupped shape. The nut that holds the front sight in place is a one time use item and will be replaced upon reassembly. This nut cannot be NP3 plated since it has a nylock insert. Small springs are bagged and tagged for reassembly. Some of them are confusing to know the difference by just looking at them. Springs like the one that holds the bolt handle detent and the extractor claw spring can be easily confused with ones from the trigger pack. I'll begin the loading port modifications once the A&S trigger frame arrives. I plan to go high, on the port, but not as high as Briley. I also plan to open the mouth more than Briley typically does. The entire loading port will be dehorned and there will not be a single sharp edge inside the mouth. Mine are all done by hand, so it is a little tedious. The owner supplied the carriercomp components, and the shipment from FFT arrived already. The handguards from FFT were mailed out to Tango Arms this morning. Will update with more as we move forward.

On the stippling, the difference is the classic leaves the thumb shelf area and inside the gills of the handguard unmolested. The complete does everything. I prefer the classic style myself. Tango Arms does a great job and you don’t have any of the plastic coming off in your hand like sand paper. I did note that the stippling is rather sharp when you first get it back, but it seems to soften or the edges get knocked off quickly. I’d send your own set in since their pricing is pretty high to buy a set from them. Kiss the FFT ones for the 922 compliance part. They’re not the best fit compared to the OEM, but I can make it work. I haven’t seen a complete stippling job done on one. The pictures are of the classic. Having a ball mill will speed things up! The limit is the shell stop. It almost looks like Briley trims the pin when they go really deep with this porting. I use a dremel with a pen attachment system so it’s like holding a pencil. Dremel makes an abrasive polishing wheel bit that is excellent for removing aluminum and breaking corners. It’s slow so you don’t loose control. I’ll try to take some progression shots as I go.

After plating the magazine tubes inside and out, I run a jig I made through the inside of the tube. It’ll attach to a drill or to a lathe chuck. It’s sized to spin a bunch of fine steel wool to polish the inside of the magazine tube. Even the spring sounds different when inserting shells. Bunch of parts came in yesterday. Got the Brownells order with the bolt release from GG&G, the IWC light mount and rear sling mount. The collapsible stock showed up from Benelliparts. The Trijicon RMR arrived too. Brownells only had 1 of the 2 rear sight screws in stock. Removal damaged both of the original ones. No ETA on the others arrival. I want to send two to Robar so they’re plated. I have enough of the parts to begin the loading port modifications probably tomorrow. I’ll see about taking some pictures in stages. I do all of mine by hand, so it takes 4-5 hours.

Robar will plate titanium, they just won’t warranty the work. Never had an issue with the plating on any titanium parts.

No problem. Benelli added that washer to the weak sides of the polymer trigger pack. Or perhaps to keep the breech latch pin from wallowing the hole out.

The channelock brand is pretty good. The jaws are rigid so they don’t try to twist on you. They have like 5 different size tips that you can put in them. Angled and different sizes. They flip from inside to outside spawning with the flip of a switch.

Without a good pair of snap ring pliers, they’ll make you question god and the meaning of the universe. The one under the trigger group pin that retains it in to the receiver is a real son of a bitch to get out.

Received the one I ordered on Wednesday today. From Minnesota to Arizona. No need for the washer from the plastic frame.

I've had good luck with them shipping immediately in the past. I ordered one last night for the build, and haven't received a shipping notification yet.

The front sight and rear sight from Meprolights will remain black since you can't plate the sights with their tritium lamps installed. There is a work around for this, but it is costly. You'd have to NP3 plate the OEM sights, then send those out to Tooltech to have Trijicon lamps installed. I think they charge a ridiculous amount, like 250 dollars. The hood of the front sight and the rear sight housing are going to be plated on this one. It will end up looking like this one I did a while back, but the Trijicon RMR's that are nickel boron plated aren't readily available anymore.

I've had good luck with the 8 pellet 00 buck rounds. Might be work getting a box and seeing if that works for you. At least you'll have lots of training rounds to use...

The lifter is a little longer than a standard but not extended like a Taran/C-rums for example. Most of the time that is only done because the loading port isn't opened correctly and people catch thumbs because of technique. The lifter is plated so it has a smooth surface finish to load on

Hi from UK. I have a j Kenny lifter installed in my m2. It works very well. It's two piece design and one additional spring. (similar to MOA but in different location. I also have an moa precision lifer that doesn't cycle rounds at all.

I don't have that, but I can make this work. Thanks.

I can still ghost load* my M2 with the MOA Precision auto load parts. Since the J-Kenny parts use similar design mechanisms I suspect you can still ghost load, but I have no first hand experience with those parts. * My M2 bolt has the usual modification that allows ghost loading

Just goes to show how much ignorance surrounds us even in a time of such catastrophic events. Oh well. I guess I should have PM'd Rasyad. I'm learning... Blessings...

Here the Stock Retaining Ring is fully seated. I tap on the Stock Retaining Ring with a large flat punch and a small hammer to make sure it is seated fully. 12. Reassemble the weapon Perform a function test of the weapon to ensure that it is functioning properly. Ensure that you properly lubricate the Receiver after degreasing the action. You'll notice a difference when you pull the bolt to the rear if you haven't re-lubricated the weapon. I would recommend testing the safety, trigger and disconnector. That concludes the tutorial on how to disassemble and reassemble the Receiver Extension on the Benelli M4. Hopefully it was clear and will be of use to some users in the future. I will leave the photographs up as long as photobucket remains free. The way the M4 was meant to be.