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IronWaffle changed their profile photo
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IronWaffle joined the community
- Yesterday
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If I could find an M4 LE at those prices, I would be seriously tempted to get one. However, all I found were the Non-LE models for ~$2K or more. Add the normal mods and they get seriously more expensive. In terms of Mil and LE status, I am neither so, while a LE/MIL shotgun has some benefits for austere and harsh environments, those are highly unlikely for myself.
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You could literally buy a couple full trigger guard FCG's and have them on standby to drop in for the price of the single hammer lol.
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How did the rifle turn out? I too am looking at a new r1 in 30-06 and am curious to see if a lot of the bad reviews were just problems with some of the older production rifles.
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Did the groups ever get any better?
- 2 replies
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- 300 winmag
- accuracy
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(and 1 more)
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Hello all, I am really considering getting a r1 in 30-06 at some point. I see a lot of comments on older threads talking about poor accuracy. I am very curious to see if anyone has any experience with the newer production r1 rifles and if so, does the reputation of poor accuracy hold true or is it more a thing of the past.
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Do you resell 26 barrels? Why don't you keep using it? Quick Draw
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polinkuer12 joined the community
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On The Hunt started following AVA Tactical Benelli M4 Mounting System
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If any one has one to sell. I'm looking for this mount to purchase. Payment Ready!
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On The Hunt joined the community
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Thank you Steve, your work is impressive. I have a few things I need to send your way before too long. I appreciate the response.
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I have stippled the stock (grip area) and the forearm on a few Nova guns. All those “ribs” you see got the usual wood burning tool treatment. If you've done a Glock you can do this.
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Well....they supposedly are better in that the face of the hammer doesn't get peened from FP strikes and the bolt carrier. Maybe better, closer tolerances? Better, more abrasive resistant heat treat? Don't know. I do have one in my M4 but, I bought it years ago for like $50.00 or something like that, when you could still get what I think was probably the last run of them from Midway or Brownells....wherever I got it, I don't remember. As for paying hundreds of dollars for one.....I think that is totally insane and a huge waste of money. The expenditure of that kind of money does not warrant any potential benefits from it as a part in the trigger group IMO.
- Last week
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I have stippled a ton of Glocks over the years to give them more grip. Has anyone here stippled their Nova or SuperNova? I can't see how the plastic would react any differently to heat. I am going to chop down my Nova's stock and use the scrap from the stock as a test sample but I wanted to see if anyone here has already taken the plunge? Any lessons learned? I am working on a Nova pawn shop find I am converting to a SBS. Its project "cheap-scape" I bought the gun for $200 at a local pawn shop and I'll add a $200 stamp and pretty much be done. Here is a cheesy rendering.
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What’s the deal with these hammers? Why are they needed vs OEM?
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$400 wont happen.Last new ones a sold for $750 and that probably was lite
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Ken G joined the community
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Lucky! I wish Geissele would make the whole FCG!
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HobbitShotgunner joined the community
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SBE II Crio Barrel: How do you remove the scope mount studs?
HobbitShotgunner replied to Dukdude's topic in Benelli
Posting here because I came across this issue mounting a Scalarworks SYNC01 mount and RMR06. TLDR - March 2024 installed above combination including removal of the plastic plugs via basic stripping of the firearm by which the channels in which these plugs sit are accessible internally. There are no tools required to reach these internal plug surfaces. Mine did not come out under hand pressure with a punch but with light taps on the punch with a hammer. I could then proceed with the installation. To generalized posterity within gun forum communities - If you feel the need to express what an "experienced" gun owner should readily be able to discern with no manual or instructions, please appreciate the following. Responding to a genuine request for knowledge from an actual human being with the results of a self-generated litmus test is, generally, unproductive and in nascent learners incredibly discouraging. Instead, I would encourage you to either share your knowledge freely, enthusiastically and without judgment, or simply refrain from posting. Also, there is, in fact, a hill in the sun between treating defensive firearms like museum pieces and taping an experimental nambu to the bottom of the truck because your local Cerakote shop should stand behind their work. Come join me there, there may yet be room for more than one of us. -
Good! Strange that they don’t provide instructions because once you start it’s an irreversible procedure. And you can’t get it flush without significant impact with that rubber mallet.
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Thanks very much for the reply. I finally got someone on the phone at Benelli USA and their answer was 'that's a very good question', and outlined a very similar method of installing the heel cap. Nowhere near the detail you provided.
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I need to get around to my project solution similar to this. I am trying to get a Tri-Rail attachment 3D printed to fit snug to the OEM handguard, it will be screwed down similar to yours. Think of the Tri-Rail attachment on Benelli MR1 or Beretta CX4, basically that. Has anyone ever tried to "weld" the 2 L/R handguard pieces together? Kind of thinking of doing that as well.
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I just used this tool for the first time to regrease my gas plug springs & gas plug caps. What a difference! Let this be a lesson for posterity: always use the right tool for the job. Thanks again benelliwerkes! I'm very happy with the purchase. Stranger Danger, thanks for the intel, it's appreciated. PS: from your username I can deduce you are a fan of the Austin Powers movies. They're hilarious! Have a great weekend
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You can mount a rail to the OEM handguards....did it many years ago when the forum old guard were spitballing solutions. T-nuts work.
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I asked that same question from Benelli and eventually got a response from Italy. Just take the screw out and remove the red insert. Then place the silver oval in place. You can use a drop of glue to bond it. I used a tiny bit of gorilla glue on the underside of the medallion and a drop on the serrations on the insert post. Tap on the medallion with a rubber mallet. I used a gunsmith hard rubber mallet (you can by that for cheap on Amazon). Be careful because once you drive that medallion in you cannot remove it. I had to pound on the medallion pretty hard to get the sides to be reasonably flush with the wood. Don't use anything harder than hard rubber or you will marr the wood. Don't start the installation until you have the proper type of mallet. It worked pretty well and looks good. I found an engraver in Denver that beautifully hand engraved my initials in the medallion with some scroll border work. He did an awesome job and his charge for the work was reasonable. If you want more details about that and a photo PM me and let me know.
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Sold to @REZARF2
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I love my Midwest Industries M4 rail too. Might as well toss that one into the mix. It is a great rail, very solid and looks great in my opinion.
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Hey @truegunnut I will take this. I'm sending a message now.