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Everything posted by StrangerDanger

  1. No restrictions for a WTS ad on this forum.
  2. Sling and light. A long gun sucks if you can’t sling it when you need your hands to do other tasks. Having to keep both hands on along gun without a sling is very limiting. I like the BlueForceGear padded two point sling. Sewn in QD sockets are nice. IWC makes a socket for the collapsible stock. Noveske makes one for the fixed oem stocks. I’d look at Modlite offerings for a light. The PLHv2 is very good for the shotgun. Put it on an IWC mount. I’d stick with the oem hand guards or get the FFT reproduction ones if you’re chasing 922 parts. Have them stippled by Tango Industr
  3. Look up A&S Engineering trigger frames. They’re beautifully machined aluminum. The ejector is pretty easy. When the bolt travels rearward with the shell hooked on the extractor claw, the rim of the case makes contact with the ejector which directs it out the ejection port. Being spring loaded reduces wear and tear on the shotgun since it isn’t hitting an unmovable part. The ARGO system sounds more complex than it is. You saw the two ports from the barrel. Each port feeds the gas chamber of the ARGO system for each piston. The piston sits free floating in the system. Wit
  4. Stack seven of them and that 1/16 turns to 7/16, or nearly a half an inch extra.
  5. I’m sure the Wolff spring is the same diameter wire, Carriercomp probably just has an overall length spec. So you should be able to trim as aznwhip stated, just don’t go to far. Shell length is going to vary significantly from manufacturer to manufacturer. I wouldn’t take their stated sizes as gospel.
  6. You can gauge how close you are when trying to insert the 7th round. Feel or look to see how close that round is to seating. If half the shell is sticking out, chances are you cannot safely trim the spring short enough to permit that much more of the shell to compress. A quarter inch is doable. If you trim too much spring, you can end up with a situation where the spring isn’t strong enough to reliably eject shells onto the elevator. Particularly the last round in the magazine tube. The last round will have the weakest spring tension of all the rounds. My favorite spring is
  7. We could always cock the straight one to keep your OCD happy! I could see the canted stock being more comfortable. We teach to cant pistols slightly when shooting one handed or to bias towards a dominant eye.
  8. I’d agree with the quality control issues lately. I can definitely fix that up if you’re sure you don’t want to try a crack at it first.
  9. Agreed. I’d test to see how much slop there is in the extension. Just rock the stock back and forth while it is locked into the fully collapsed position. Note the farthest movement each direction. Normally the stock will rock back and forth around 3 degrees.
  10. StrangerDanger


    Should have a 3 position tube on that model unless someone swapped it out (unlikely.)
  11. I probably wouldn’t put KY inside the stock. It might be hard to get out! Every time you take someone shooting and they shoulder the gun, they’ll say, “Do you smell Astroglide?” and start the judgement.
  12. That model should have the necessary 3 position receiver extension on it. A collapsible stock should drop right in and function.
  13. I have encountered a FFT set that did not ‘drop in’ to the A&S frame recently. The hammer would hang up on the disconnector. It only requires a light amount of filing to get the clearance needed on the hammer/disconnector side of the sear. Dozens of others I’ve done this past year have been perfect and dropped right in. Luck of the draw I suppose.
  14. Best to contact Scalarworks. There should have been three small bags with the mounting hardware marked A,B and C.
  15. Agreed. I had a set come in last week that was hanging up on the disconnector when using the A&S frame and the FFT set. Some careful filing was needed to get the clearance.
  16. You could ask for a photo of the receiver extension. It’ll have the 3 position as long as it hasn’t been tampered with. Another option is to swap out your existing extension for a functional one. A lot cheaper than buying a whole new shotgun.
  17. Glad to help. Yes, the 11794 should have the 3 position receiver extension.
  18. Oh and the seller on gunbroker was a F’ing nightmare. I think he was based in Israel. For some reason he sent two invoices that equaled the final billing. Whatever, I paid it. Two months later I cancelled payment since they hadn’t shown up and the seller wasn’t responding. A few weeks later it arrived. So I told PayPal to go ahead and pay him again. After that he kept sending messages and trying to involve gunbroker stating I didn’t pay. I had to send them copies of the statements for both payment amounts showing that they went thru to him. Gunbroker finally got tired of him and told him to go
  19. I’m not a fan of the way it limits bolt travel rearward. It makes it rather easy to screw up a bolt rack. Never experienced any failures during live fire though. I’m probably going to pull both of mine.
  20. The orange ones look like rust to me. I'd soak a rag in oil and rub the finish. They might come off. You might want to check inside your barrel also. Run a cloth patch down it and see if it comes out gray or brown. Are you in a high humidity area?
  21. I’d like to see the mounting solution. The REIN does look good. Those plated RMR’s are hard to come by these days. Not sure if they ever made any Type II models. Even getting Cerakoted ones lately is difficult.
  22. I never cared for the larger dot size optics. At a 100 yards, a 6 moa dot will cover 6” of the target. Where as a 1 moa will cover 1” of the target. I never found the larger dots to be easier or faster to find particularly on a rifle or shotgun that has an established cheekweld. On optics like the RMR, I can’t really tell the difference between the 1 and the 3.5 moa dot size.
  23. Pictures to follow along with for the sling mount.
  24. The sling plate isn’t threaded at all. So the main bolt that goes thru the sling plate, then thread into that locking plate with the 8 spring washers compressed between the sling plate and the locking plate. The spring washers have to be orientated in a specific way too. Since there is no head on that main bolt to tighten with, you have to use the 13mm nut to tighten it to the locking plate. It doesn’t have to be put in very tight since you need to be able to remove it. The only way to remove it is by adding another 13mm nut to the buttstock side of the main bolt that should be sticking out pa
  25. If you get stuck, hit me up. Hardest part is getting the 13mm nut off of the stock screw with nothing to grab it by.
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