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Everything posted by StrangerDanger

  1. Different strokes for different folks. It looks better outdoors.
  2. With Numrich out of stock, that’s probably your only option.
  3. It’s just an A&S Engineering frame they resell.
  4. Interested as well. The oem shell latch sucks for speed loading on the M4.
  5. Realistically it will be a rather minimal enhancement. I doubt you'd notice anything outright. In theory there would be a reduced friction coefficient.
  6. Sorry that Benelli hoodwinked you with their naming system of the H20, it's a pretty common problem. The anodizing is beneath the cerakote model M4's. My guess is they roughed it up a bit either with a bead blaster before painting. Their Cerakote doesn't seem to adhere as well as other cerakote paints I've encountered. Example, the carriercomp titanium tube's cerakote process is bomb proof. The NP3 parts have the benefit of having a reduced friction coefficient. The parts can be difficult to hold onto when oiled since they're so slippery. I work over big rubber mats to keep from dropping them on the floor. With certain areas of the M4 or other firearms plated, the firearm operates smoother and uses less of its recoil energy to cycle the action. Fully plated M4's will cycle lower recoil shells more reliably as a result. Having the parts plated yourself is costly, takes forever and sometimes requires some fitting to get them to function properly again. Tolerances are quite tight in areas like the gas pistons, so you may have to remove some of the finish to get them to fit back into the barrel housing. This is pretty easy to do, but just expect such work. I've never seen a M4 rusting, so the surface layer protection is a little moot. Maybe if you're exposed to extremely high humidity or salt water environments it may be of benefit.
  7. The trigger spring is probably fine. My guess is most of those people are using them on the M2 for competition action.
  8. You deduced the issue correctly. It’s the TTI hammer spring causing you grief. Go back to oem and your issues should go away. I’ve never known anyone who’s M4 would work with those pieces of crap in the pack.
  9. I think so. I haven’t used one yet though. At a certain point, you might as well just stick with the traditional top rail and pick a height rail you think would work. The 10mm riser works great for the middle position. The middle position is a little small for me personally, so I felt scrunched up behind it. Fully extended fits my body type better. For sizing the screws, I run the screw all the way thru a thread checker plate. Then I use a belt sander to grind the screw down to the desired length. The plate gives you something to hold onto and keep yourself from burning your fingers.
  10. This is actually a H2O, just externally painted in FDE Cerakote. This M4 is set up for a leftie. Only the visible areas of the bolt carrier are painted in FDE, everything else is Np3 plated. One cool feature is the RMR spacer that is a 10mm spacer. This raises the RMR up enough to use the optic in the middle position of the collapsible stock comfortably. The spacers come from Reptillia in a few different heights. I had to grind the screws down to make them the correct length to fit the Scalarworks Sync mount.
  11. It won’t crack. That kind of steel deforms first. It shouldn’t have any effect on the piston. If you shoot it enough, you’ll end up with all sorts of gouges and scrapes inside the action and the ejection port will begin to have the sharp edges knocked off from all the shell extractions.
  12. I'd go muted for a H2O gun either NP3 or Cerakote. Both finishes are a matte finish. That brushed polish would be more like chrome.
  13. I don't think it'll hurt anything, you just have to avoid looking at it!
  14. Is this your NP3 carrier? Is the gouge deep enough to feel with your nail? I take it there are no signs of damage on the piston? Have you had any malfunctions where the bolt closed on a shell stove piped in the chamber? It might have mashed the rim of the shell between the carrier and the barrel. I had a carrier get beat up by an old 4 port barreled M4 that the pistons beat the carrier to the point that both contact areas for the pistons were swelled up from the beatings. This caused the carrier to bind in the receiver when pulling the bolt to the rear. Benelli replaced everything and upgraded me to a 2 port barrel to keep that from happening anymore.
  15. He’s got his set up quite well. He didn’t slap a heavy ass MLOK rail on it for no reason. You’ll live with a regular tailcap from a Scout, but it does suck when firing heavy loads and using the momentary feature. I tend to ride the button with my thumb and avoid using the constant on feature. I have bounced my thumb off the bezel a bunch of times… That new bezel Unobtanium posted looks really good. I like the rolled edges on it to minimize sharp edges. I’m going to give one a try soon.
  16. I’m not super familiar with that model, but I would pull the firing pin out and make sure it isn’t broken. If fine, pull out the trigger pack and perform a safety inspection of the pack. It seems like your disconnector isn’t performing correctly. I’d look to see if the hammer is slipping past the disconnector hook once pressure is taken off of the hammer (simulated cocking). I’d inspect the two ejected casing and see if the primer strikes look about the same. After the second round fires, can you fire a third? Or has the hammer fallen or rode the bolt carrier forward?
  17. I’d like to see if the cell fails during training so I know how it’ll perform in the field. I have a few 18650’s that haven’t given me any trouble or signs of getting damaged during live fire. So it may just be a KeepPower issue on 12 gauge recoil.
  18. Near the end where the battery’s positive terminal is smashed in presumably from recoil. I only saw the issue with one battery. So I’m not sure if it’s a fluke or not yet.
  19. Actually I have encountered that with the KeepPower batteries once. Mine looked just like theirs. I don’t know if the battery just wasn’t made right or if I didn’t have the end cap or headlamp tightened fully which allows the battery to slosh around and damage the positive terminal.
  20. That’s the proper way to install the Velcro backing onto the receiver.
  21. Glad to help. The light looks good! Stay away from the Modlite website!
  22. How many rounds thru it since it was last cleaned?
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