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StrangerDanger

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StrangerDanger last won the day on June 25

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About StrangerDanger

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/13/1981

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    Arizona
  • Occupation
    The Militant Wing of the Salvation Army

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  1. Looks cool at least! I’d like to see what they weigh compared to titanium.
  2. Mine never free spun. Sure you can rotate them when in the socket, just like every other handle. I’ve never seen a picture of a snapped off one. Biggest complaint I hear is the handle can be over inserted which can scratch parts up while it cycles. I never had an issue with it.
  3. That’s one of the reasons I like the TTI stainless handle. I wish the left left hand side charging handle mod was possible on the M4.
  4. At that price point, you’re better off buying a m1014 and taking the collapsible stock from it then selling that shotgun back off with the regular pistol grip stock on it. I haven’t seen any stock’s lately. It’s been a dry spell for most of this year. I usually buy mine straight from Benelliparts. I wasn’t real thrilled with Benelli switching the H2O to Cerakote. While Cerakote is a nice finish, it’s a big disingenuous to call it an H2O. They should have gave it a different naming scheme. I had a few clients have me remove the finish and send it to Robar for the real thing. It takes forever and isn’t cheap though.
  5. I had issues with the FFT titanium charging handles and the old Design Concepts titanium charging handles. The tip of the charging handle would deform from being inserted over and over into the bolt carrier. Over time it would get loose and fall out too easily. The titanium was too soft to work against the steel detent inside the carrier. This is why the carriercomp model was so nice, the tips were tool steel. If I was going to get another FTT handle, I’d get the steel model.
  6. Figgy - I’ve heard that Briley is making a carbon fiber mag tube. No weight specs have been released yet. You won’t find a magazine tube that is titanium and Np3 plated. Your H2O isn’t likely Np3 plated. Only the original H2O’s were and they are very expensive now. The current production models are cerakoted to appear silver. You can get a muted finish carriercomp Titanium tube that will match pretty well. I’ve had those NP3 plated in the past and the finish will adhere to the tube. Robar won’t warranty it however. Real NP3 won’t be a perfect match for Cerakote NP3 if that makes sense. Lately the collapsible stock’s have been hard to find which has caused the price to climb. Benelli doesn’t sell these to the public. The main source for these comes from the Benelliparts owner. I guess he has an Italian uncle or something to get them in bulk. No one knows how or where his source is.
  7. I prefer the GG&G bolt release too. They prevent the pad from turning by machining some notches in the button that index with the button pad. You might be able to enhance these TTI buttons by filing the face of the button to create a slight angle for the pad to install at. This isn't ideal though. FFT sells a decent spring kit for the trigger pack. These are made by Wolff and aren't meant to lighten anything. No experience with the benelliparts trigger packs. Simply plating a part doesn't make it US produced. Benelli got in trouble trying this with the original H2O. The ATF shut that down real quick.
  8. Great for slug sighting in jobs! That RMR is a type 2 RM06 which is a 3.5moa dot. They have a better one now the RM09 which has a 1moa dot size. It's come a long way since 2004, and has around 18,000 rounds thru it. It's a mix of nickel boron and NP3+ parts with a burnt bronze Cerakote exterior.
  9. A 1000 bucks and the one I have would be for sale!
  10. I like some of their products, but others are poorly conceived in my opinion. The TTI shell elevators These are great. I can't tell a difference between the TTI and the FFT unit. They do work well for loading quicker and less pickle fork thumb bite. The TTI Stainless Bolt Handle Many people hate these, but I've never had an issue with them? Others have claimed they have been able to over insert the bolt handle into the carrier. I've never experienced this. The TTI lightened spring kit This caused nothing but light firing pin strikes when I installed them. The TTI oversized bolt release I didn't really like this product. The pad bolts to the outer face of the factory bolt release. Since the bolt release actually pivots to function, you'll notice the forward part of the pad is sticking out pretty far from the receiver. You just added a snag hazard. Drilling and tapping is beyond the skill level of the average owner, making it difficult to install. The TTI oversized safety These were okay, but I prefer the DMW design. The TTI custom package No experience with this. Never heard of anyone with one either. I'd like to try one of the lightened bolt carriers, but not at the package price point.
  11. Yep! Both of my M4’s are plated along with all their sub components. Everything is butter smooth and required zero fitting unlike my adventures in nickel boron.
  12. Hopefully you have a padded vice block or you can use a thick rag. You need to stage the receiver so that you aren’t lighting your rag on fire or the rubber blocks. Email me at [email protected] I’ll give you my number and we can text if that helps.
  13. Just saw this. You want to take the internal parts out of the installed receiver extension so you aren’t heating the spring and lubricant inside. When I put the receiver in the vice, I have the shotgun upside down with the trigger guard up. I clamp on beneath the rear sight and be sure not to smash the trigger group pin. You want the receiver stripped of all parts. Stock and barrel should be out. Youll be applying heat for about 45 seconds at a time. Then slip the 27mm wrench over the lock nut and give it a try. Don’t put a lot of torque on it. You want the heat to do its job. When it doesn’t budge, put more heat on it mainly focusing on the base of the old receiver extension. Then try the wrench again. You’ll see the nut turn a few degrees then get stuck. Apply more heat and try again until it has been removed. Once the nut is free, focus on the receiver extension. Apply more heat and use a 18 or 19mm wrench on the flats of the receiver extension down at the bottom of the extension. You need to keep track of how many full rotations it takes to remove the extension so that you can install the new one at the same depth.
  14. The OEM aluminum frames remind me of old Colt AR15 receivers. They’re rough, loads of flashing that was never filed off. Pitting everywhere from impurities in the aluminum. I have ave never seen any issues with a polymer trigger frame. They’re a little lighter than the aluminum model too. I personally carry polymer framed guns on duty and for concealed carry. They’re striker fired evil too! Fewer problems with them in my experience than hammer guns. Fewer wait a minutes. Having said that, the A&S frames are the best. I don’t use the ramp either. I just want a smooth functioning trigger platform that can be plated.
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