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StrangerDanger

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StrangerDanger last won the day on August 15

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About StrangerDanger

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/13/1981

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    Arizona
  • Occupation
    The Militant Wing of the Salvation Army

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  1. BlueForceGear sling and the handguards returned from Tango Arms for the stippling. Nice work as always. I have a painter who has color matched the NP3 finish quite well. He is going to do the lamp head and the plastic ring that holds the rubber button of the flashlight’s tailcap in place. These parts can’t be plated in NP3 since the electronics cannot be removed and that ring is plastic.
  2. Welcome. You're almost there. I sold out of those extensions a long time ago. Now the price is too high for me to hold on to them. Benelli isn't very receptive to working with home based FFL dealers even though there isn't a real dealer for a hundred miles of me. Numrich arms used to be a good source for the extensions, but then they started sticking people with two position tubes instead of three. I usually buy from Benelli Parts myself.
  3. Thanks! Those tutorials were fun to do. I'm amazed that photobucket started working again.
  4. A good substitute is the Impact Weapon Components light mount. It's actually a simpler design. Cosmetically I prefer the Ava Tactical model, but it is what it is. Not sure what happened to Joel, but I hope all is well with him.
  5. Nice build. I've swapped out about two dozen of these receiver extensions. The part you listed is all you will need to make the collapsible stock function. Here is my tutorial thread from a few years back explaining the process.
  6. Thanks! I ran into that same problem when ordering a sling for this M4, they only had black kryptek for the front portion of the sling. So for this one, I bought an all black one with gray plastic triglides. I might have put a gray pull tab on it, but I can't remember. The sling is still inbound. Notice we can post more than two pictures to a post finally!
  7. Can't hurt. I have never seen any followers that did anything special besides be special colors.
  8. After the polishing out was done, I took the flat areas down to 1000 grit to be sure tooling marks were gone. I didn't go any further than that because NP3 won't have that mirror finish anyway. What I do I wrap the end of the sand paper around a flat file. Then I work over the flat areas to be sure all the hit spots are removed. Usually you'll see deep scratches or tooling marks that are deeper. It can take a bit of effort to sand those imperfections away. Once done though, it's amazing how beveled those corners become. The factory receiver is full of 90 degree angles inside there that can cut your fingers when you're loading fast.
  9. Got a bunch done today. Broke down the collapsible stock for plating. The button spring is in the bag. Those springs are coated in grease. Tore down all the other accessories that have come in. Still waiting on a few small parts. A few small OEM parts are back ordered, so that will slow some of this down. I also knocked out the loading port job tonight. It's my least favorite part of doing one of these builds. No matter how many you've done, putting a file to someone else's 1800 dollar shotgun is always scary. The first step of one of these port jobs is to use painters tape to give yourself some guidelines on what you want to do. Take into account the bolt release, the profile of the trigger pack and how aggressive you want to open up the area around the magazine. I used one of my complete trigger packs to plot my cuts. My Wilton vise has been getting a lot of love this year. Mounted to the top of my Milwaukee work benches has been a huge improvement. The top of the work benches (I have 4 of them) are covered in rubber mats. I put the mat beneath the vise so that I have a nice work surface that doesn't mar anything. I put painters tape on the sides of the receiver and used padded vise jaws. Be sure to check your side profiles. The point of no return. Once you've broke the anodizing, there is no turning back. A few minutes in. The initial cut is to profile the shape. Using a large flat file, you can keep both sides uniform. Deeper, and making a lot of chips now. Continue checking your side profile to see how much material has been removed and if each side is uniform with the other. If that's the goal at least. My favorite bits with the Dremel. Having the pen attachment makes things a lot easier. This bit breaks the corners with ease and removes the tooling marks. After I cut my profile, I removed material from the inside to enlarge the mouth.
  10. The GG&G bolt release is excellent. I have done some of the drill and tap ones like the TTI unit, I didn't care for it. It stuck out from the receiver too much and would likely get hung up on things. I didn't care for the GG&G bolt handle though. It weighed over twice what the factory bolt handle does an could cause the action to operate sluggishly. Mostly a problem with anemic loads.
  11. Of the aftermarket safeties, I prefer the size of the Dave's Metal Works unit the best. Not too big or too small. Nice machining. I'd personally stick with the OEM handguards. Nothing is more comfortable than them. The stippling is an improvement over stock. I send them to Tango Arms for the work. Quad rails on the handguard are a poor design. I tried the AFG on a rail to see if it was any better. It was not. It made it much more difficult for the standard push/pull method of bracing a shotgun. I hated having my hand locked in to one position. Depending on my stance, I prefer to have my hand in slightly different positions. Having anything hanging under the handguard slowed my hand to load the firearm and get my hand back on the forearm. All these items simply added weight and no real benefit that I could utilize.
  12. On the stippling, the difference is the classic leaves the thumb shelf area and inside the gills of the handguard unmolested. The complete does everything. I prefer the classic style myself. Tango Arms does a great job and you don’t have any of the plastic coming off in your hand like sand paper. I did note that the stippling is rather sharp when you first get it back, but it seems to soften or the edges get knocked off quickly. I’d send your own set in since their pricing is pretty high to buy a set from them. Kiss the FFT ones for the 922 compliance part. They’re not the best fit compared to the OEM, but I can make it work. I haven’t seen a complete stippling job done on one. The pictures are of the classic. Having a ball mill will speed things up! The limit is the shell stop. It almost looks like Briley trims the pin when they go really deep with this porting. I use a dremel with a pen attachment system so it’s like holding a pencil. Dremel makes an abrasive polishing wheel bit that is excellent for removing aluminum and breaking corners. It’s slow so you don’t loose control. I’ll try to take some progression shots as I go.
  13. For a polishing jig, I use a large shotgun cleaning rod that is pretty thick in diameter. I’d guess at least half inch. I then wrap the steel wool around a brush head. I smear grinding compound over the steel wool. Usually the 1000 grit stuff. Same stuff I use for trying up AR upper receivers. Doing this is in the lathe is best since the knob handle on my rod doesn’t come off. So I just stick it through the oversized port of the lathe and only stick about 24” out of the chuck. I hold the mag tube by hand and work it back and forth thru the interior. Then wipe it all out. It’ll look like a polished mirror in short order. You could do it with hand drill, you might need to cut off the knob handle if it doesn’t come off.
  14. After plating the magazine tubes inside and out, I run a jig I made through the inside of the tube. It’ll attach to a drill or to a lathe chuck. It’s sized to spin a bunch of fine steel wool to polish the inside of the magazine tube. Even the spring sounds different when inserting shells. Bunch of parts came in yesterday. Got the Brownells order with the bolt release from GG&G, the IWC light mount and rear sling mount. The collapsible stock showed up from Benelliparts. The Trijicon RMR arrived too. Brownells only had 1 of the 2 rear sight screws in stock. Removal damaged both of the original ones. No ETA on the others arrival. I want to send two to Robar so they’re plated. I have enough of the parts to begin the loading port modifications probably tomorrow. I’ll see about taking some pictures in stages. I do all of mine by hand, so it takes 4-5 hours.
  15. Robar will plate titanium, they just won’t warranty the work. Never had an issue with the plating on any titanium parts.
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