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StrangerDanger last won the day on February 28

StrangerDanger had the most liked content!

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About StrangerDanger

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/13/1981

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    The Militant Wing of the Salvation Army

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  1. Cool build! Love those Railscales. Too bad the KOS ones won’t fit that handguard. With the modifications to the bolt, is there any performance gains stated by Agency Arms, or is it just cosmetic?
  2. It'll depend on if you have a NP3 or a Cerakote H20. The NP3 FFT tube will match pretty damn close to a real deal NP3 M4. The match will be in the ballpark if you have a Cerakote model. I think you have a lot better options available than going with the steel FFT tube with the NP3 finish. The NP3 finish is pretty resilient from damage, but you could scuff it if you tried. The main benefit of NP3 is it is a nickel finish with embedded teflon which permanently lubricates the components. If picking a titanium model, I'd go with the muted finish carriercomp model. The carbon fiber ones l
  3. It comes down to the weight you want. The titanium magazine tubes are going to weigh in around 5.5 ounces. The steel tubes are going to be about 8 - 10 ounces. The value of the NP3 on the magazine tube is mostly cosmetic. I haven't noticed much benefit from having a plated magazine tube. Carriercomp has a muted finish that is pretty close to the NP3 finish. Another option is to do the Briley carbon fiber magazine tube that matches quite well. It's also lighter than the titanium tubes.
  4. 60 of them that came with the collapsible stock and a full length magazine tube. After that, Benelli neutered them and sold a bunch that were NP3 plated. Then a few years ago they stopped doing the NP3 presumably because it's insanely expensive, and switched to the Cerakote model. Some of NP3 models had fitting issues from tolerance stacking. Benelli skimped on plating a lot of the parts they should have like the aluminumm trigger frames. The ones I send in to Wright end up having everything steel and aluminum plated except the disconnector pin, bolt handle retainer pin and all the spring
  5. If you have some big money to invest, you could always turn your blue M4 into a real deal NP3 H2O.
  6. They’re better made than oem. Aftermarket trigger kit like FFT will need to be fitting to it. It isn’t hard to do. The kit will likely need to be fitted to an oem frame as well.
  7. The IWC setup is the lightest and it is hard to beat the ergonomics of the oem handguard. Now, if you are set on a rail, I’d use the 13” Briley rail so that you can mount the light as far forward as possible to eliminate the barrel shadowing issue. You’d be stuck using a tape switch which sucks. Most switches are damage prone garbage which have poor tactile control. Even expensive ones like the Taps switches were meh. I am trying a Unity Tactical pad right now which works pretty well. They can be hard to find in stock though. I’m moving into a new realm right now for the M4. I j
  8. This might work for you. These guys sell a riser that you can sandwich between the RMR/SRO and the Sync rail. They have two height options, but realistically you could stack them if you wanted some specific height. You might have to source some extra long screws or trim the long ones to make everything work. https://reptiliacorp.com/product/rof-riser-for-trijicon-rmr/
  9. The Wolff trigger pack springs are the same weight as factory. Wolff makes better springs than the factory sources. They don't take a set as quick as the OEM ones doe. The carriercomp/Wolff magazine spring is the best option out there for the M4 for many of those reasons. The oem magazine spring is hot garbage.
  10. Go in with sugar rather than spite. TTI has been known to tell people TFB. I hate dealing with them. The only thing I buy from them anymore are these handles. Plus my daughter teases me when we watch John Wick that they should have used one of my M4's instead of that TTI edition M4.
  11. Agreed Redneck. The hammer is much easier to keep the file straight on. You want a file with a safe edge so you can hold it against the body of the hammer without doing any damage while you take a few thousandths off the disconnector sear engagement on the hammer. You go slow with the trigger pack assembled so that you can cock the hammer and see how close you are to clearing. Release the hammer and take a few more licks off. It'll move from hanging up all the time to hanging up until you press on the hammer, to passing right by the sear hook unless the trigger is pulled to the rear.
  12. That’s unacceptable. I’d call and get them to replace it. Taran must be busy plowing Instagram models.
  13. For a long time the anodizing had an OD green hue to it. Some Italian running the anodizing tank must not have washed his hands.
  14. Hmmm... What I would do is put the muzzle down on a piece of paper, then trace around the outer diameter of the barrel. Try to keep the muzzle as flush as possible to the paper. Then without moving the shotgun look thru the optic and plot the dot point onto the paper. The position of this dot will depend on where you have the optic sighted. Then I’d find the centerline of the barrel to plot your center, then measure the distance from the center to your plot point of your optic.
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