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rjk

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    Bayonets

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Originally posted by SGTMAJ:

    got the one piece tube already. So any guess on the next step?

    Me too, nice ain't it!! :D

     

    I'd think a bayonet would still be better but re-treading a barrel and putting a breaching thing-a-ma-bob on it would be easier.

     

    Haven't seen one on an M-4, but I saw that Tromix is putting them on other SG's. Not sure abt legality, but now that you can put a flash suppressor on other post-ban weapons, my guess is that it'd be OK.

     

    Rob

    What is different between M1 and M4?

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Originally posted by harrydog:

    That's good to know. Is there is any way to determine which port design without disassembly?

    Also, does the 2 port design function reliably with low recoil loads?

    My M4 doesn't or hasn't gotten to the point where it will reliably feed low recoil rounds. Others have posted that after "break-in" their's shoot pretty much anything. Mine must not be there yet. The other week I got my GF some #7 trap loads to practice with and I had many failure to feed malfunctions.

     

    I'm sure it'll work itself out.

     

    BTW: If you're talking low recoil 00, like the Federal Tac stuff, it'll shoot that all day long, with no problems.

     

    Rob

    Bayonets

    in Benelli

    Posted

    I'm not sure what forces the mag tube would take if you had to stick someone/thing, but I'm guessing you'd probably need to get or make a one piece mag tube.

     

    Rob

    What is different between M1 and M4?

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Harrydog,

     

    That post was because of the 4 port design which Benelli used for a short time. The four port, which was designed for "low recoil" rounds, allowed too much pressure to bleed through on full power rds.

     

    Benelli has since stopped making the 4 port barrels. They should all be 2 port now.

     

    I think...Benelli is switching out the older barrels for the newer one's as they come to their attention.

     

    I think I got that right. There have been a few re-mods that Benelli has done to the M-4 line since the first one's hit the market, and sometimes I get them confused ;)

    What is different between M1 and M4?

    in Benelli

    Posted

    I’ve carried an M-1 almost everyday for the last 13 yrs and shoot thousands of rounds every year in training and competition and the thing is very reliable. I’m not sure what is meant by “tough” either, but the M-1 has served me well under the harshest of conditions. I’ve never had one “break” yet. On one specific gun I have to have at least 15,000 rds through it. Being able to shoot “free” ammo is great ain’t it ;)…anyway…

     

    With that said, I got a personal M-4 a few months back and love it. IMHO, the M-4 is a product improvement over the M-1, with the addition of some functional “bells and whistles”.

     

    The biggest functional difference is obviously the gas system but…

     

    Is the gas system on the M-4 that much more reliable or tough then the recoil operated system in the M-1…I don’t know, but I’ve had the same types of stoppages with both weapons (i.e. less then lethal stuff, some breeching rounds, and other general light loads). I guess time will tell, but I don’t think I’ll ever be able to put in as many rounds with my M-4 as I have with my issued M-1. I think the bottom line is I haven’t been able to successfully shoot one type of round through one SG that the other one won’t fire either (or malfunction).

     

    The rest in general terms are the same. Little improvements here and there, but nothing revolutionary. IMO, for 99% of owners both versions will do the job equally well. I got the M-4 over the M-1 because I thought the collapsible stock and p- rail idea was cool. I also got a great deal for it; otherwise I may not have gotten the M-4. Call me old school, but I’m not 100% sold on the gas system yet. Time will tell if it’s better/more reliable then the older recoil operated system.

     

    Just my 2 cents, Rob

    Just got my M4. Hope I assembled it correcty?

    in Benelli

    Posted

    As for the barrel, if you don't see any silver exposed from the barrel/reciever connection, it should be in correctly. Did you function check to make sure the bolt operates correctly? Sometimes it takes a couple of times to get the barrel to clear the bolt correctly. It's a self correcting problem cause the SG won't function correctly.

     

    You're right abt the way the barrel is held in. Lots of SG are designed that way.

    Caution: titanium charging handle for M4?

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Thanks Lupo,

     

    So does that mean that the handle just pushes in (The M1's work this way) or does it insert with the push and twist like the factory handle?

     

    Good luck with your mod and look forward to seeing the results.

     

    Rob

     

     

    Originally posted by Lupo:

    Hey Rob, I don't own an M1 so I can't compare the lockup of the handle, but it engages the M4 catch just fine from the backside with the bolt removed:

     

    416883.jpg

     

    The catch is just a captive round-headed pin with a spring, held in place with a roll-pin (see left photo). The tip snaps in and holds well; the titanium seems to hold up. I would prefer the triangular groove (as in the factory handle) for resistance to rotation and probably added strength. I'll post pictures of the modified handle after surgery.

     

    Aww shucks, M1014, we were just fooling around, didn't mean any harm... what kid can resist titanium? :eek:

    magazine tube removal

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Yep, just did it the other day on my M-4.

     

    After taking the barrel, bolt and trigger guard off, I first took my GF's hairdryer to it with no affect. It gets hot as **** (reciever and mag tube), but it isn't enough heat to "break" the loctite. I must have heated it for 30min, put an old engine tube (sliced down the middle) to protect the mag tube and used vice grips. Didn't move a mm. Just a waste of time.

     

    I decided to take the hair dryer approach even though it was recommended to use a torch or heat gun. I figured I wanted to use the least amount of heat, so I didn't FUBAR my new toy ;)

     

    So...I tried a butane torch next...the one I use for my crack pipe (kidding). You know the cooking kind. I don't know abt your SG, but mine has a hex nut looking thing that the mag tube screws into...so I heated that area for abt 2-3 min at first, put some gloves on and wedged the reciever between my legs and tuurrrrned...nope, not hot enough yet. Tried again after a few more min. of heat and bingo, it slowly started to unscrew.

     

    I cleaned up the area with a brush (loctite just flakes off), reapplied blue loctite, and put my one piece extended mag tube on.

     

    Hope this helps, Rob

    Caution: titanium charging handle for M4?

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Great post Lupo,

     

    Won't the difference in the tip of the Ti version affect how the pin engages the bolt, even if you lathe the flat part off?

     

    My guess is the reason the tip of the OEM handle is designed the way it is...is so that it'll lock when it's "pushed & twisted" in the bolt, no?

     

    I wonder if w/o that piece it'll push-in similar to the M1 (sort of a friction fit).

     

    Look forward to your future report.

     

    Rob

    cleaning

    in Benelli

    Posted

    It doesn't sound like duckhunt is talking abt lubing his SG's with WD-40, it sounds to me like he's only asking if it's safe (for the camo) to wipe the outside down.

     

    With that said, I'd think WD-40 for camo'ed guns might be too strong of a penetrant and could make the finish peel or prematurely wear.

     

    If I'm wrong duckhunt and you're asking abt lubing the internals...I'd follow the advise you got here. WD-40 is not a lubricant.

     

    Just my 2 cents, Rob

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