shogun94
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Posts posted by shogun94
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hhmm,tricky,ask Benelli USA,pm some of these more knowledgeable guys on here,find a bad ass gunsmith,etc,theres a ton of trap and skeet forums too,best to ya
I found the answer. The supersport is done by Briley. They want about $85 for the same job they do on the "performance shop" version and about $275 for a match trigger. With the match trigger they replace some parts and not just modify them. I was kind of hoping I could just buy a trigger group with the work done from them but they don't sell them. I have been looking around to see if I could buy a used trigger group to have done but I haven't found one yet. I shoot in all the time and wanted to avoid done time.
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It is my understanding that the performance shop SuperSport has lighter trigger pull than the normal SuperSport. I have a stock SuperSport that I would like a lighter trigger pull for shooting trap. Is there any way I can buy a trigger group for a performance shop SuperSport to use in my SuperSport? ? If I buy a different group, I would not have any downtime and I could switch back if I don't like it.
Thanks,
Doug
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It did seem like there was a burr on the barrel where the extractor hits it and I didn't want to try to fix that so I sent it back to the factory without filing anything. I think I let an qualified expert look at it.
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It didn't rust, when I took it apart and removed the bolt that holds the spring in, part of the threaded tube broke off. I don't know why or how it broke but I decided to send it back with a letter that explained everything.
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I think I would prefer to replace my part with a factory part since I have had good luck cycling anything I shoot. (light factory loads for trap). The SureCycle looks like an upgrade but seem risky since it would void the warranty and it may not cycle the light loads. It's too bad the factory tube doesn't have holes in it near the receiver to put a tool through it to remove and reinstall the tubes. I wonder how the factory does it.
Thanks for the information.
Shogun94
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If I need to replace the Recoil Spring Tube on my supersport, what is the recommened way to do this? Do you use a strap wrench to unscrew it from the gun body and a strap wrench to put the new one on?
Thanks,
Shogun94
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One more question, does the bolt need to be filed some to remove the flatspot the “locking head pin” gets hang up on preventing the bolt head from rotating and closing correctly?
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Well with that many rounds it probably wouldn't hurt. As always, cleaning and oiling is imperative. The Benelli click I have found is mostly unrelated to a used recoil spring. Many times it's actually a battered extractor cut on the barrel. Many people get too wrapped up in whiz bang springs and accoutrements while overcomplicating the obvious. Often this little radius is overlooked. It gets pounded every time the bolt slams shut by the extractor. With time a burr can build up and when the bolt tries to close the extractor can get stopped or delayed by this burr. This keeps the bolt from getting to complete battery and thus misfiring creating the Benelli click. Judicious use of regular or diamond needle files on this radius can go a long way to curing this problem. Just make sure the radius and curvature of the cut is kept.
Thanks for the info. Where is a good place to order a stock replacement spring and how do I know I get the right part number. The manual doesn't have part numbers and the online places offer Benelli parts with a S/N break but my S/N doesn't look like it matches when I look on 3rd party web pages.
I do keep the gun clean and oiled so maybe it just use that cause a flat spot.
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PM sent
I have a Supersport and the S/N starts with F297.... If I shoot almost only trap with low brass light loads, what recoil spring should I use? Should I stay with a Benelli exact replacement or get a Wolff?
The gun is completely stock but probably has fired at least 30,000 shots. I assume I need to replace the spring from time to time to keep it working well. I have started to have the problem were when the bolt closes, it doesn't turn bolt and fully seat and leads to the Benelli click.
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Anyone know anything about this?
Is there a factory supported or recommended shell catcher for the Ethos?I use a rubber band for my supersport but I want something better and as far as I can tell the Ethos did not make any improvement in this area but I hope I am wrong.
Thanks.
DB
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Is there a factory supported or recommended shell catcher for the Ethos?
I use a rubber band for my supersport but I want something better and as far as I can tell the Ethos did not make any improvement in this area but I hope I am wrong.
Thanks.
DB
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Oldcrow,
I recently got a Supersport CT 12 Ga and started shooting trap. I was getting just over ½ so last week I patterned the gun. The pattern is right on target but for a “clay gun” I thought the aim point should be just under the target so you don’t cover the target up with the gun while you are tracking it. The guys at the club asked if I could raise the comb and I remember reading you can but I just checked and the raised comb is ~ $100 for a piece of foam/rubber or whatever it is. If your gun shoots like mine, you are probably hitting lower than the point of aim. I did shoot the patterning board 2x and the second shot I attempted to make a figure 8 with the sights where the top of the mid bead was touching the bottom of the front “sight” but the pattern was still about the same. I’m not used to making the figure 8 with the sights and I really had to force myself to align it that way so I’m not sure what I should do. I haven’t had a chance to shoot again after I patterned the gun to see if I could improve. I may find it easier to shoulder the gun with the raised comb or maybe I could try adjusting the stock with the included parts. Any recommendations?
performance shop SuperSport trigger question
in Benelli
Posted
Briley does the SuperSport triggers. Most other Benelli guns are done by Rob Roberts at 870-251-9955
Does anyone know what other guns would have the same trigger group as my SuperSport? I am still leaning toward getting a spare and having the spare modified.