kilyung
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Posts
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Posts posted by kilyung
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I had to “tune” my shell catch to get it to where it was smooth.
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A vise will make your life easier. As for heat, I used a MAPP torch but don’t apply the heat directly to the receiver (you will melt it). Rather, apply the heat indirectly onto the steel recoil tube near the retaining nut.
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Got mine installed in 30 min… a lot faster when you don’t have to deal with the factory loctite. Tip: lock your stock onto tube position #1 when threading the tube into the receiver. Keep turning until the stock won’t clear the receiver. Back off the tube until the stock is oriented correctly. That’s the final tube installation depth.
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It’ll be nice to spend some modding time with my M4… other than practicing with it I haven’t had a chance to work on it lately. Great opportunity for a detailed breakdown/cleaning.
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I’m ready… take my money already!
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Can’t wait to try one!
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Is the stock new?
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Primary:
Benelli M4 Entry
FN SCAR 17S 13” SBR
Glock 19XBackup:
Benelli M4
DDM4 V7 Pro
Sig P226 -
Make sure to do a sear check.
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Not an owner and the description says “Made in the USA” but it’s described as “discreet”. Not sure I’d agree with that. However looks perfectly usable as a range bag.
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I agree that there are quite a lot of 1301t in classes. It was less punishing than the m4. I have more appreciation for field stocks as reloading with a pistol grip is slower (for me). I’m going to try my next class with a field stock m4 for comparison. Imho both are excellent shotguns with a reliability edge to the m4.
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Unfortunately many of the parts are ITAR restricted so IWC won’t sell directly outside the US.
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Congrats! The easiest 922r path is a US made trigger group. That’s the hammer, trigger, and disconnector. Those 3 parts will allow you to install the extended mag tube. You can go FFT but I much prefer Briley for the money as you get an “improved” trigger for about the same money. Just send Briley the entire trigger group and they’ll install it for you.
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Thanks. I highly recommend installing the Beretta 1301 pro lifter. The difference is it keeps the lifter up and out of the way. Makes reloading super easy.
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10 hours ago, nyc71 said:
Which barrel clamp is that? Beautiful setup.
It’s a MOA Precision clamp. I don’t need a QD or Pic rail on my clamp so wanted a minimal one that doesn’t touch the barrel.
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I enjoyed Mike’s review of both M4 and 1301. With Limbsaver pads on both, recoil isn’t bad on either. I love both of mine.
Wonder why there’s so much shotgun love lately.
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“weighed my unloaded M4 at exactly 8.5lbs. Not bad”
Note where I said the weight wasn’t bad? I’m no stranger to humping 13lb+ firearms. I frequently carry a scoped SCAR 20S. No harm in seeing how lean I can take my M4. Besides it’s a fun exercise. Sounds like 8lbs might be the practical threshold. -
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More of a thought exercise but curious what others have tried to lighten their M4. I weighed my unloaded M4 at exactly 8.5lbs. Not bad but wondering if I can get it to my similarly equipped 1301T (6lbs 15oz). Probably not as the barrel is most of the weight difference.
M1014
Ti 7-rnd mag tube
NC +2 mag extension
MOA Precision sling mount
IWC scout mount w Modlite 18350 + click cap
stippled handguard
A&S trigger housing w FFT trigger group
Scalarworks SRO + JW BROS
IWC rear sling mount
6-pos recoil tube
Limbsaver padTo reduce weight but keep functionality comparable: swap SRO/BROS for RMR, A&S for stock or aluminium housing, swap out IWC/Modlite mount for GG&G pic w/ pistol weapon light, remove IWC rear sling mount. I’m thinking I can get down to 7.5lbs. Is anyone close with similar functionality?
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Get custom silicone plugs. I’ve had a set for years and they give me 37dB sound isolation. At $100, great when you don’t need to worry about hearing others. Because they’re molded to your ear, there’s no pressure. I also have a set of Harris F-12 HPI (26dB)… cost as much as a kitted M4 but I won’t compromise on my hearing. I really want a set of 20s for BT but at 2x the cost of a M4, but same 26dB as my F-12, not worth it. Plugs are nice because they never interfere with cheek weld. I use IEMs to listen to music so love IEs.
There are times where headsets are more convenient and cheek weld is more like chin weld so I use Ops Core AMP. The NFMI plugs are awesome with the AMPs.
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Depends on the stock.
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You’re more likely to occlude the SRO than break the BROS which would render it equally useless. I have this setup on my M4 and it’s nice but has never been dropped. Now my rifle, which also has the same setup, has been tossed around plenty with no ill effects. So yes, it seems to be as tough as an RMR but with better FOV.
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33 minutes ago, Unobtanium said:
Change to a Tactician style cap.
This is compatible with the 300 and 600 body scout lights?
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If you don’t want to drill it yourself, the Franchi Affinity 3 carrier latch is drilled and tapped to accept screw in bolt release buttons. It is compatible with the M2 carrier latch (and the M4) so you don’t have to drill it. Not sure if the TT screw is the same thread pattern as the Franchi’s but you could always just use the correct screw. I know they’re compatible because I installed my M2 GG&G carrier latch onto my Franchi (Franchi carrier latch went onto M4 with Toni button).
Franchi carrier latch (threaded version):
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/50696
YT video showing compatibility of Franchi Affinity and Benelli M2 carrier latches (@23min):
Disappointed with new M2 (customized) shell loading, what gives?
in Benelli
Posted · Edited by kilyung
Some deepen the cuts on the sides of the catch to improve its flexibility but I’ve heard catches fail if too much is removed. I prefer to bend the catch so you have the least amount of contact securely retaining the shells then grind/shape/polish the edge of the catch so it more evenly contacts the shells. It’s a LOT of trial and error (I’d recommend having another catch on hand or working very incrementally)… the first time I tuned a catch, I test slammed the stock on the ground and all the shells backed out of the tube - kinda funny in retrospect. Took it apart, lessened the bend, retested, and got it to where I could not induce a catch failure but it was smooth to load and unload. I’ve done this for my M4, M2, Beretta and Franchi. No issues to date.