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csvt99

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About csvt99

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/19/1983

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  • Location
    Lancaster, PA
  • Interests
    Hunting, cars, music, outdoors, family
  • Occupation
    Environmental Scientist
  • loginname
    csvt99
  • displayname
    csvt99
  1. I cleaned the bolt with the exception of the extractor. Based on your diagram it is the spring the red arrow is pointing to in my photo, so that should be normal. I will try cleaning the extractor which should help. If I pull back, let go, and the bolt doesn't shut the whole way, it is the extractor that is catching. I can push all I want on the bolt and it goes nowhere, but if I take my finger and slide the extractor from bottom to top, then it slides into place. Any tips on removing the extractor arm for cleaning? Do I just need a small punch to remove piece 035A per your diagra
  2. Here is the picture [ATTACH=CONFIG]631[/ATTACH]
  3. I replaced the spring and it helped but did not solve the problem. When I pull the bolt back 1/2" and let go it still doesn't shut the whole way. It seems to be the extractor that is the hang up. Does the brass ring (or whatever it is) in the picture belong? I had to pull back on the bolt a bit for the pic. Also the new spring is squeaky. I oiled it and that helped but it still makes noise. Will this go away over time?
  4. The spring is ordered. Assuming this solves the problem, thanks so much for your help. Without it I probably would have spent frustrating hours at the dealer or on the phone with Benelli getting no where!
  5. This is unfortunate. I will order the spring and see what happens. I'm really surprised Benelli would produce something with a flaw like this. I love the feel of the gun, and just as I've finally molded to it (after a couple of seasons) now I have this issue. Hopefully the spring fixes the problem; if not I will be paranoid about checking that stupid bolt. I'm going to check my friends' berettas and brownings to see if they have similar issues. This is not good for a gun that cost $$$
  6. A week ago I shot at a very nice and large long beard at about 8 yards, only to hear a "click". I threw another one in but by that time he was already out of site. I was upset about it so I settled for a jake on the last morning (still fortunate for that opportunity though). I determined it was due to the bolt on my SBEII and not the bullet. If I pull the bolt back about half an inch and let it go, it doesn't close completely, it still needs about an 1/8 of a turn. The only way to get it to go is to pull it back further and slam it. On the way in the woods in the morning somehow I must ha
  7. Got the new choke, and it seems to be shooting better. I only had a chance to shoot twice- once at 40 yards and once at 20. At 40 yards the pattern was shooting a tad to the right but nothing that would concern me considering it is a shotgun. My results were far better than the Pure Gold that was shooting significantly to the right. I'll be taking it out this weekend and hopefully I'll be able to let ya know how it does!
  8. I agree with your reasoning 100%. However, if I do not buy the XRs and just shoot the lead I have this year, that is one more hunting trip I can take. (It costs about $40 for gas for round trip to my cabin). I have two turkeys at 40 yards plus with 3" 6s in factory full and extra full, so to me the extra trip is more worth it. If I run out of lead or have $$ next year or sometime in the future, then I will probably give it a try.
  9. I am right eye dominant. The first time I shot it did hit my jaw pretty hard. Rest of the shots were ok though, I think i just hand my face pressed down on the stock too much.
  10. And the benefit to striping the wad is.... more consistant pattern?
  11. Thanks for the advice, I love the idea Nitro has with the #4,5,and 7 or whatever they use. If I ever try something other than lead I will try either that or the Winchester XRs
  12. I thought all of the ported chokes are designed to strip the wad. The Jelly Head claims the porting is supposed to vent the gases and prevent from "blowing through the shot" behind the shot. Isn't this what strips the wad? I feel my main problem is that I've actually done too much research. On this forum, I read that .660 JH or Rhino is the way to go. On others I read that Pure Gold is the way to go, and other claim the JH may not be safe with Heavy Shot. I am not a gunsmith, so its hard for me to tell good information from bad or more likely "arbitrary". Unfortunately, this is oft
  13. You are saying that is the correct set up for a right hand gun, so I should check and make sure mine is the same? Also, pure gold claims their tubes are good for heavy shot. Although I did find it interesting that some places online listed it as lead only. Cabelas says all Pure Gold chokes are Heavy Shot compatibale. Like I said, I don't know who to believe.
  14. Yes I am right handed and right eye dominant, although I shoot with both eyes open (not sure if that makes a difference). I'll check which shim is in there as soon as I can, since you never know like you said. Afterall, the gun did come with a completely unmarked choke tube
  15. The reason I was asking is for safety issues. Pure gold claims you shouldn't shoot heavy shot out of any choke tighter than .670, as a result of extensive testing they've done. Would this apply to the XRs as well? I would be a bit hesitant to shoot HS out of the .660 jelly head for this reason. At this point I don't know who/what to believe, but I do know its not worth risking it for safety.
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