thefish

Great answers, guys. Thanks. I'm going to try a pattern and see where it is most dense relative to the point of aim. Then, make an informed decision on shim choice. A related question, though...in truth, on this particular gun, when you replace shims and change the angle that the stock is relative to the receiver, you are not changing the "drop at comb" in the classical sense, are you? Anybody have any thoughts on why Benelli doesn't make all this a bit more clear? Have they published somewhere a guide on all this for the novitiate? Thanks again for all the help. TF

Thanks for your answer, it is truly appreciated. I'm still confused as to not how to do it, but why. If I switch from the existing "C" shim, which according to the manual is rated with a drop of 63.5mm to the "B" shim with a rated drop of 59mm, I am thus decreasing the drop, i.e., raising the height by 4.5mm. Since the effective height will be raised by that much, won't this force the point of impact to be even higher? It functions like the rear sights on a rifle, doesn't it? If you raise the rear sight, the bullet will strike at a higher point. Since it is already hitting too high (that is why I must lower the barrel to hit the clay), won't switching to a "B" shim make it even worse, or do I have it completely backwards? Definitely a confusing topic with poor documentation/explanation in the manual. Thanks again for your help.

I have a M1 Super 90 and I think it is the best gun in the Unverse. I use it for everything. Recently, I started using it for trap and am finding that it impacts low relative to where I aim. Thus to smack a clay, I have to raise the barrel and obscure the clay with the barrel to hit it. The problem doing this is obvious: once it disappears under the barrel, one cannot tell how far below the barrel the clay is. The gun still has the original shims. In the kit, I have an "A" and "B" shim. Which should I switch to? Do I need to also change to the corresponding plates? Thanks in advance, TF