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outershell

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About outershell

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  • Birthday 02/05/1920
  1. thanks. Thing is with that method the spring sticks out like 7 inches, and that's a real pain to compress. But if that's how it's done I guess ill figure it out.
  2. Sweet, I held the heat gun on high (1000 F) for fully 10 minutes and had a buddy act as a vise grip, and it came right off! Thanks a ton for your help guys. I have a few last things I'm wondering about though. Since a cleaning rod can only reach halfway down the tube (the rest is obstructed by a cylinder that the spring fits over), is it okay to just spray gun scrubber and/or break-free up it and let it dry on its own? Or should I just clean the inside as best I can with a cleaning rod? Also, and this may have been the main issue, when I unscrewed it the spring popped out, but the plunger didn't. So that leads me to believe it actually may have been in there incorrectly. Can you guys tell me which of these images is the correct way to reassemble it? Image 1 (which I think is probably right) Image 2 (which seems fishy)
  3. Actually, I considered this but figured-before I tried it-that simply replacing the spring with the Wolff one would be optimal. I also don't have those items-just Hoppe's lube and solvent-and will probably have to mail order them because the closest store that'd have them is like a 45 min drive. I think I'll order those anyway... thanks A blowtorch really isn't an option because I live in a tiny apartment without a garage or place I can use one safely-typical student situation. I don't even have anything I could safely clamp a vise to, so I'll have to get a buddy to hold it. I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks a bunch.
  4. You're correct except it's the M1 s90 tactical, and that second link is the guide I'm using. I'm trying to replace the recoil spring because it seems like that's what I've boiled its cycling problems down to. I got the damn thing used online (never again), and it's gritted up state leads me to believe the recoil spring is probably the stock original. Here's an image I just took. The left side of the tube is the part I've been heating and then torquing on; it's the part with the nut that I can't tell if it's part of the tube or if it should separate.
  5. well, i guess the only limit is that you can't shoot from the hip.
  6. yeah, I think my next autoloader Benelli is going to have to be a gas-operated M4 as soon as the price goes down. Recoil powered just seems limited...
  7. Thanks, the heat gun I have is 750/1000 as well, and I was actually using the low setting. I'll switch it to high and heat that thing for 10 minutes. I'm actually pretty good with mechanical stuff; I'm mechanical engineering student. So, I'm heating the end of the tube that is nearest where the butt would be-is this correct? That is the end that has the nut part. Should I be heating the end closer to the guns action? Thanks a bunch for your replies fellas.
  8. Ok, I held the heat gun on that thing for almost 5 minutes, and still no amount of my torquing could twist that nut. Just how easily does it turn after its been heated? Unfortunately, I'm starting to think I should take this one to a gunsmith. Bah
  9. Hi all. I got a used m1s90 that wont cycle, and after very thorough cleaning, more testing, and some research I determined the problem is probably that the recoil spring needs to be replaced or at least removed and cleaned. I got a new spring. Anyway, there's a guide floating around online on how to do this, but I'm having problems removing the nut for the recoil spring enclosure. Basically, I've got the stock off but can get no farther. I read that it has Loctite applied to it, so I've tried heating it up quite a bit with a lighter and tapping the nut with a hammer. It still is stuck and unfortunately the nut is getting pretty torn up. Do I need to just take this to a gunsmith? The ones around here charge $60/hour, and this is something I think I should be able to manage on my own really. Any tips?
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