Rob72
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Posts
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Posts posted by Rob72
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44/40 cold blue is the best rub-on quickie.
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I believe some 3 gunners have 60K + through their guns, so...FWIW.
My only concerns would be wear in the receiver (steel on alloy) and possibly wear on threads in the tail. I had a quote for $50 to do Type III hardcoat anodize on my receiver. Cheap investment...
Your barrel ring, just a stressed weld, bro', bad luck, but it happens.
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Ya know... if you Helicoilled the Benelli button, so that it was fully threaded, it would not be at all hard to mill a rib, instead of a neck, on the back of the bolt-on part, and a mating groove in the stock button.
No rotation. Should not be more than $25-30 more...just a wild hair.
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I like PGs, & here's "the Tip": you use the PG to pull the stock into your shoulder. Manymanymany people treat it like a big pistol with some funky appendage flailing against their chests. This beats you up. Try that hold if you must, but for comfort and speed:
1) Short LOP- 12" generally the max
2) Squared stance, with non-dom leg slightly forward. Lean into the gun.(Your instructor may have alternative advice- follow instructions, see how it feels.)
3) PULL that PG. Pretend that stock & PG are what you hold onto to be whisked to safety at 60 MPH.
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Thank you, that answers a great deal.
I'll be blunt: pumps are generally poor-shooter-stoopid-proof. This is the same reason that 90-odd percent of police departments carried revos until the early '90s. Revos have/had significant failures also, but they were familiar... I also agree- it is the shooter, not the tool. Just like auto shottys, auto-pistols do not tolerate poor technique or light loads well.
I think we may have become lost in the auto-pump angle, but in reference to lighting, Awuerbuck, Givens, et al, are strongly in favor of appropriately used lighting. I'm not sure if Todd308 is the Todd I'm familiar with, but in either case, he summarized "current philosophy and usage":
Light: this is a must have for a defensive shotgun, besides being able to ID targets in the dark you gain the ability to stun/blind while you ID them. You want the smallest unit you can get, it's less weight and less likely to get caught on stuff. I personally like the surefire X300 style lights, compact and light. You also want a pressure switch somewhere you don't have to mess with it. It doesn't have to be super bright, anything over 100 lumens will do the job, too bright especially in closed areas with white walls and all you do is blind yourself. -
I'm a newbie here but I must chime in to say that m4p226n set the tone with his first post in this thread. I know this will likely fall on deaf ears but perhaps a less abrasive response would have lessened the oneupmanship and saved some allot of typing.
Just two cents from a casual observer.
I know, but sometimes you just have to kick that slinky over the next step.
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Is that so? Please post your authoritative source on 'current shotgun philosophy and practice'. Thank you.We certainly disagree on this.
Tom Givens and Louis Awerbuck, for startsies. But it sounds like you wouldn't be interested in much they might say. Se la vi.
Vocalizing ignorance makes you look foolish...or trolling.
Anyone on Enos' Forum running a pump in competition? Nope. Unless its pump-gun limited. But what would they know about GM class?
I do apologize, you neglected my question- from whom are you receiving instruction?
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This bizarre comment pegs out the BS meter and seriously misleads the OP.
Let me add some common sense here: if you're worried about a grab and go, you simply stick a bandoleer full of shells next to wherever you keep your gun, and take the extra .000001 second that it would require to move your hand the extra inch to pick up the bandoleer in the same motion that you pick up the shotgun.
EDIT TO ADD: Please consider the following:
1) Remember that everything you add to the gun (sidesaddles, lights, optics, etc) adds weight and added weight can affect function. The number one requirement in a weapon is that it works, and if it has 10 pounds of stuff sticking off it, it is more likely to fail.
2) If one is truly, genuinely concerned about grab/go situations, then one doesn't buy (A) one of the heaviest shotguns out there, and (B) a semiauto; one buys a simple, light, pump shotgun. If you 'won't have time to get your shoes' you won't have time to locate your rail grease and lube materials, right?
3) Remember that if you are going to put a light on your shotgun to identify your target, you will have to point your weapon at your target to do so; if you have children in your house, ask yourself if you want to violate Rule 2 before you put a light on a HD weapon.
And if you're worried about not having time for shoes, what are you going to do, run into the woods barefooted?
This is either a very odd joke, or one of the least informed comments that I've seen on the subject. If I told my instructors that, well...I'm sure it's a joke. Let's leave it at that.
Whom, exactly?
While I will agree on the lack of need for the uber-Ninja railedreddottedsidesadledcollapsingstocksinglpointslingXRail zombie gun, your thoughts on lighting are around 15 years behind current shotgun philosophy and practice.
Well maintained, "major maker" semis have no deficits in comparison to pumps, using defensive rounds, and at the entry level (i.e.,Moss 930) are arguably consistently more reliable than pumps (870 Express).
I have lived in places (Houston,TX; Wichita, KS) where a bandoleer hanging by the shotty was not out of place, but, as noted, a sidesaddle provides a single reload in a compact, handy package. And, in that context, and along with your thoughts on weight, I like the 3 GunGear product.
Of course, I'm also using the el-cheapo Stoeger M2000, which has a hard-point weight limit, unlike the auto-reg gas M4.
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As I recall, stock finish was plain ol' matte blue with possibly a hint of gray. Personally, I would run it uner a wire-wheel, or a 320-400 grit buffer pad. Glass bead, or 600-800 AlOx, blast for a more matte look. I like Mark Lee's "stove top" bluing(Midway) for a deep solid blue/black.
You could try adding a few drops of phosphate stripper (Home Depot) if you wanted to get a bit of gray. I personally have not done this, but there are several home-park recipes available on ar15.com.
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Lord, no! That's the old M1 style, Williams (Sights), IIRC. Screws work loose, something like 4 different screws to set the base and sight assembly. Cutting edge around '88-'89.
LPA is probably the most available & easiest to use. I like MMC, but understand they are having troubles delivering (again). You could get creative and M4gerize it- put a section of rail on the receiver and use a low mount BUIS and an XS banded front.
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Same as any pump:
Firing pin & spring
Extractor & spring
Ejector & spring
Hammer & spring
A whole new trigger group, if you run it hard.
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IIRC, it is a 13" LOP. Cut down is not hard: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24972
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My post # 66 http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24972
I like the Vangs. It does require some detailing, but is well worth the effort. if your finger is inside the trigger guard, the safety is Off.
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I'm thinking about porting to help reduce muzzle climb on 2nd shots. I just can't get around the concept that if the forcing cone work is more beneficial and only costs $55, why don't I already have it from the factory on a $1200 gun?
"Because you are a knuckle-dragging American who shoots his guns too much. If the chokes do not help you, it is help you do not need...," to paraphrase what was said to a friend, over the phone, with similar questions.
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How well are the Stoegers built and is it worth just getting a Benelli.
Thanks
IMHO, it is not "worth" getting the Benelli. Benelli barrels are extremely thin. You do tend to take extra care of the $1000 shotgun, so as not to drop it on the muzzle...but it does happen. Bennis have the same problems as Stoegers, but perhaps not quite so many.
I've had sveral Beretta inertia guns(Benelli M1, M3 & a 1201FP); I now have 2 of the Stoegers.
I like the Stoegers, and inertials in general. If she's petite and/or not an avid shooter, the gas-gun would probably be a better choice, though I like the Mossber 930s more than the Remingtons.
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Ace or autoparts are far cheaper and faster options than factory.
They are rubber rings, so when cleaning your weapon, be careful about getting synthetic oils on it, or TCE or similar agents. If you use a shot of silicone lube spray, or a dab of silicone lube (plumbing section in the hardware store) before re-assembly, it will last much longer.
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Ace Hardware is the best bet.
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Just my opinion but the elastic shellholder is lame. It seems obvious to me that I would not want elasticity in something like that, I would want rock solid so my shell is where it should be and comes out easily each and every time without any stubbornness. I want to be able to load shells into the holder easily with one hand and not need the other hand to HELP the thing in there. The weight savings are there but not enough to sacrifice the rigidity and consistency. Depends on what you want to do, again the M4 is different than the guns this was originally designed for, but your statement does address one of the common conflicts of current EBR/EBS owners.
Railage and uberclamps are great (properly made ones, that is) but they not infrequently have the effect of turning the weapon into a area-dispersal, crew-served affair, pushing 15-20# in weight. This is true of ARs, HKs/CETMEs, AKs, the whole gamut. Not everyone puts a VFG, light/laser, strobe, IR lamp, IR designator and cherry picker on the front- but many do.
For a "social shotty"(civilian), rigidity is not a concern, in context, and 3 GunGear is at the top of the pile for the nylon carriers. Consistency is certainly not a problem; if it were, they would not be popular with the group that buys the majority of produced units. If I were harumping the hills of Afghanistan, and the shell carrier also provided some crush-protection for my receiver, maybe...
Sidearmor makes a fine product, by all reports and appearance- I haven't handled one. OTOH, I'm not interested in "heavy" weapons, anymore. A good portion of 3 gun competition holsters, carriers, etc., are "to the game," but the shell carrier is not. The Sidearmor product would not suit my needs at all (not an M4 owner), but that doesn't make it "lame."
Sophistication implies the ability to evaluate validity using concrete parameters within varying perceptual frameworks.
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3gungear's rig is hardly junk:rolleyes:; its also weight savings you need on the M1/M2 platform. With the M4, its completely your preference.
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The easiest fix (for you) would be to remove the front bead, and replace it with a higher post. Benelli/Beretta engineers also feel that Americans, "shoot your guns too much...":rolleyes:
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Parts will be hard to come by. Numrich Gunparts, Midway USA and brownells are the usual suspects. Depending on the part you want/need, you may be able to use something from the Beretta 1200/1201, AL390, maybe a 391.
Failing that, you can call these guys, and see if they have something they'll sell:
http://www.triangleshootingsports.com/
or these guys:
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http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=916/schematicsdetail/M4
Trigger group parts: 3-6, 8. 10, 12
Bolt group: 27, 28, 30-32, 35-37
Receiver: 73-75, 82-86
Gas system: 95, if you really feel the need. Again, barring a statistical parts breakage, if you shoot this out, you're due for a new gun anyway.
Rather an expensive package, but one I try to put together for my toys(not an M4 owner), as a smith is either unavailable or too expensive when I need them.
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and what about the M4
Same parts, dude. In theory, you might want an extra piston, but if you shoot enough to stress fracture that, your receiver will probably be out of spec as well.
For the extremely anal, hammers, disconnectors and trigger dogs break as well (the FCG). You could purchase those as well, but that may be excessive unless you're 3 gunning, or planning for The Bad Day.
Shooting light loads.
in Benelli
Posted
Which is telling you nothing at all. Benelli guns seem to be highly variable in delivered spring weight. Some guns run anything, some balk with less than 2 3/4" 00 in the first 200 rounds.
To answer the question: yes, the lighter spring will most likely help you.
In addition, when you remove the plunger tube, go ahead and polish and chamfer the edges of the plunger itself, and polish the inside of the tube. This would not be a bad time to coat them with a teflon finish (Brownells +/- $26/can) or see about having it done by a local shop. Many automotive/engine shops are offering PTFE coatings.