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17Load

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Posts posted by 17Load

  1. I have don't any optics or lights on my M4, yet - but I can speak to the X400. I use one on my HK USPC 40 and I love it. It's well built, has the Surefire quality we are all accustomed to and has never given me a single doubt. When I am able to add to my optics and light to my M4, I will go with Surefire.... for sure. ;)

     

    As for the Optics, I'm thinking of the Leupold Delta Point in 3.5 MOA, myself.... but now I'll research the Trijicon RMR too. The Aimpoint T-1 was another I was considering earlier.

     

    Good luck, post a pic when you're done!

     

    Cheers,

    17Load

  2. Wow, StrangerDanger, you're the HEAT! :D

     

    I'm definitely going to have to read that 1-2 or 32 times before I attempt it! The last thing I want is to muck it up!!

     

    I appreciate your time and effort to add the diagram and directions - that's HUGE!!

     

    Cheers!!

  3. Interesting setup. Albeit heavy! I really do like the 14" barrel though...

    Screenshot2011-03-24at72054PM.png

     

     

    StrangerDanger, nice work of art! Can you help with a question, please. I also purchased the Dave's Metal Works Oversized Safety, doe this require a gunsmith to put it together? I was a little disappointed the DMW part arrived without any instructions. :confused:

     

    Will you please provide any inputs about this? Thanks in advance!!

     

    Cheers,

    17load

  4. :D

     

    SUCCESS!!

     

    The heat gun was the trick. It took 10+ minutes of applying heat (I think I was putting it too far out on the tube at first) before I was able to slowly start rotating the magazine tube. This was just me and hand/arm strength, I didn't have a vice available so maybe that would help it turn sooner - not sure but probably. I did use a piece of rubber for handling the tube as it does heat up pretty good. I cleaned up the remaining lock-tite with a wire brush and threaded on the new tube w/no issues. Also, without a vice, it's hard finding a place to hold the receiver/stock that isn't subject to hot metal or hot air. In hind sight, I should have worn a long leather glove - would have helped.

     

    I like the look of the one piece tube much better than the factory limiter piece that comes with it and more importantly, the extra capacity!

     

    Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply with suggestions and cautions - all of your advice was spot-on!

     

    Cheers!

  5. A post on another site says you take the trigger group out of the receiver and spin the stock off. I can't vouch for that since the M4 is obviously different from the M1. Here's the post:

     

    Benelli M4 stock and trigger group removal tips and tricks

     

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

    I've seen at least one incorrect guidance for how to remove the stock on a Benelli M4 11707 (pistol grip full polymer stock), and once I did it myself and put it back, I learned a trick which is very important if you want to get your trigger group back in!

     

    Sharing to help others avoid wasted time and frustration....

     

    Removing the Benelli M4 / USMC M1014 stock

     

    Friends, this was designed for the USMC for battle field use. No tools are required. IGNORE the advice to use a screwdriver on the buttplate... that's not the way to do it, unless you want to disassemble the stock itself for other reasons.

     

    Disassemble the weapon, removing the front nut, barrel, bolt group, and trigger group. Once this is done, you can simply UNSCREW the stock from the receiver. That's right: grab the stock with one hand, grab the receiver with the other, and twist away.

     

    The stock, through a clever internal screw arrangement, actually threads onto the recoil spring tube which is very tightly mounted to the receiver frame. All the stocks for the M4 / M1014 work this way: standard straight sporting stock, pistol grip full stock, and pistol grip skeletonized collapsible stocks. I think the collapsibles have a button you must keep depressed while trying to rotate them off.

     

    Lefty loosy, righty tighty, looking from the butt end; that is, counterclockwise to remove, clockwise to tighten. It is difficult to get started the way it's tightened on at the factory, so don't give up; just torque harder until you get it started.

     

    Replacing the stock and how you can make it impossible to replace your trigger group!

     

    The tolerances on the M4 are very tight and precise. When you screw on the stock, get it to the right "tightness", and then be certain that the cavity in the pistol grip which accomodates the trigger group is in perfect alignment with the corresponding area on the receiver!

     

    I neglected to pay close enough attention my first time out, and I was just a tiny, tad off. I could NOT for the life of me get that trigger group posterior "nub" or "tang" to seat in its little pocket in the receiver frame. The pistol grip rubber was interfering! Once I tweaked my positioning of the stock by giving it a little adjusting twise (a very small amount of change), voila, it dropped right back into place, no problem.

     

    I guess we should expect this from a gun made to such close, precise tolerances.

     

    Hope this helps someone out there.

    Givin' back.

    Cheers!

    Be safe!

     

     

    Just wanted to say "thank you" for detailing the removal and installation of the stock. It's much appreciated! I'm a new Benelli owner and I don't want to muck things up. These forums are very helpful!

     

    Cheers!

  6. I bought one of Kip's (carrierComp) titanium tubes. It came with very clear and exact directions which were easy to follow. In a nut shell: strip the gun down. Cut a length (4-6 inches) of bicycle inner tubing (it's cheap and works awesomely as a gripping aid). Slide the inner tubing onto the old mag tube. Apply heat with a heat gun to the front of the receiver where the mag tube is inserted into. Apply even heat to all sides ... keep the heat gun moving. After a while, the factory locktite will turn back to liquid and the mag tube can be unscrewed. You don't want to overheat it, but you also don't want to under heat it before you start unscrewing it. Just keeping trying to unscrew it occasionally. It shouldn't take much force. I was able to unscrew the mag tube on my own without any additional help from another person, but the bike inner tubing really helped getting a grip on the old tube. Once you've removed the tube, clean up the receiver threads, apply new locktite to the new tube, screw back in. Easy.

     

     

    Thank you USCM - my tube didn't come with any instructions at all (but I also didn't realize there would be factory set lock-tite on it either). Nothing's ever easy anymore! Anyway, thanks for the tire tube suggestion - I'm going to try it out. I appreciate your time and help!!

  7. I just did my second one last Saturday. The first one years ago (before full-length tubes were even commercially available) I used a small torch, this time I used a heat gun. I had a friend apply heat right at the base of the magazine tube, and after it started getting good and hot, I began applying twisting pressure to the magazine tube. It unscrewed some, then got tight again. More heat loosened it up again, and we were able to unscrew it off that time.

     

    Yes, the rear handguard retainer plate is held in place behind the collar on the magazine tube, so it won't come off until the tube is removed.

     

     

    Thanks M4Madness! I was thinking small propane torch but am going to go with a heat gun now. Also, thanks for confirming about the handguard retainer plate not being the issue - I didn't think so, but wasn't 100% sure.

     

    Cheers!

  8. I think I've found my answers by reading SOCOMguy's thread on his full length tubes. And why didn't I read this before!!! Ugh!

     

    If anyone wants to volunteer any help, that would be great - going to try SOCOMguy's method.

  9. My tube came today and it looks great. I am going to try and get it installed tomorrow and will post the results. Just a little concerned on getting the factory one off. I don't have a heat gun to help get it removed.

     

    Hello, without a heat gun, what method did you use to remove the original magazine tube?

     

    Thanks for any help you can offer!

  10. I've just purchased a 7-round, single piece magazine tube from Dave's Metal Works (they call it their 2 Round Replacement Tube). I'm having issues unscrewing the original magazine tube from the receiver and I don't want to botch it up. Has anyone removed their magazine tube and if so, what method did you use? Was there a serious amount of force/torque needed to begin unscrewing the magazine tube?

     

    My M4 is stripped down to just having the magazine tube remaining against the receiver (plus the Forearm Retaining Band). It appears the retaining band is held in place by the magazine tube, so I don't believe the retaining band is keeping the magazine tube from turning.

     

    Any help would be awesome!!

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