Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Alien Attack

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Alien Attack

  1. Can anyone recommend a good gunsmith that can reduce the trigger pull weight of my R1? Thanks
  2. You'll probably have to have the firearm sale transferred to NC. I just purchased an R1 from cabela's and they had to transfer the purchase which if I remember correctly cost ~$50.
  3. I've got a VXIII 4.5 - 14 x 40 mm and love it! It seems to be a perfect match for the R1, both aesthetically and operationally.
  4. Thanks for the link Tucker301. Butch-M, Thanks! I'll check into it. Maybe I just need to tighten it down more,although I was told not to tighten it down with anything other then my hand...
  5. Well I got my comfortech and wow was it worth it!!! At first I would have rather had the 22" barrel instead of the 24" barrel, but after shooting it at the range it has seemed to help my accuracy. I wouldn't think that 2 inches on a barrel could a/effect accuracy that much, but I had two groups @ 100yds that all 3 rounds were touching. As eluded to in my other post my digital is on the fritz otherwise I would post the pics. Luck? Maybe, but 2 different groups? The funny thing was the guys in the stalls (at the rifle range ) to the left and right saw my groups and wanted to know what kind of gunsmithing I had on my bolt to get those groups.... lol... I told them I had the bolt removed, added a rotating bolt head and had an argo system installed. You could tell by their perplexed look they had no idea what I was talking about or how the rifle could even function like that... It was a hot topic at the range once they found out it wasn't a bolt action... [ 11-23-2005, 07:47 PM: Message edited by: Alien Attack ]
  6. Does anyone else use these rings? http://www.leupold.com/products/mounts.htm ( The quick detachable rings ) It seems as though the cross slots on the base that comes with the R1 are slightly bigger then the cross slot bars on the rings. This leaves for a little play in the scope mounts. Even when the rings are tightened down as much as possible (via hand, no pliers are used) that the recoil of the 30-06 has already damaged one pair beyond use. I purchased a second pair and the same thing seems to be happening. I've pushed the rings as far forward as possible and then tightened down the ring so there is no play upon recoil. Unfortunately my digital camera went loony a few days ago or I'd show pics of the problem. Anyone else experiencing this?
  7. Sounds more like an advertisement for that website then anything... especially since this is an R1 forum...
  8. Well, cabela's said they'd give $700 for the R1. The new comfortech is $1200. That leaves ~$500 difference for me to make up. Not sure what the going price for a used R1 is right now.
  9. OHHH!!! Just went up there and held the comfortech R1 30-06.... IT'S MINE!!! I'm going to take the $500 loss, by trading in my current R1 and buying the comfortech... as soon as I do that Benelli will offer the upgrade... lol.
  10. I'll take one... if not I'll buy a new one with the stock on it.
  11. DreamHuntz, Ya, it is suppose to be a 2" high zero @100 yds. That way as Tucker301 said it would be dead on @200 yds. The first hunt I took this rifle on was a Wyoming antelope hunt. Even without the barrel cap tightened it still dropped the speed goat at 200 yds no problem. Those targets were shot using hearing protection , a shooting rest, and 150 grain Winchester Ballistic Silvertips. A friend that handloads says he could never get ballistic tips to preform very good and that I could probably get better performance out of 165 grain non-ballistic tip ammo. I'll be going to the range again soon and I'll be interested to see how some other loads preform. Yes, C is looking VERY deadly. That's a WHOLE lotta lead in a target. The next time I go to the range I might do the same thing with 9 or 12 rounds... just for the fun of it. The only thing I'll be looking to do now is either get the comfortech stock or a new R1 with the comfortech already on it.
  12. tucker301, I agree! Those groups are completely acceptable to me! I recently dumped a 14" pronghorn at 200 yds using it, so no problem at those ranges either. I'm using the new spring tension cap. garren, In those recent target pictures there really weren't any errors. I really only mentioned errors becuase of group D being a little sloppy compared to groups A & B. I still think I could tighten the groups if I wanted, but really don't need to put that much effort into it.
  13. See the test results after I tightened down the barrel cap all the way here: http://www.benelliusa.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi/topic/5/16.html?
  14. Well here are the results... it's obvious that the "tightness" that the barrel cap is screwed down to affects the accuracy: Group A: The first three shots, barrel cool time was ~30 seconds in between. Group B: Waited until the barrel was cool again. The second three shots, barrel cool time was ~30 seconds in between. Group C: In a hunting situation, you might not have 30 seconds to let the barrel cool, so I fired off 3 shots, with a wait time ~ 5 - 8 seconds (just enough for target aquisition and fire). Then Immediately reloaded and fired 3 more shots with the same time delay. Group D: Barrel allowed to cool, and three more shots where taken. This was one of those where every shot I took, I could feel wasn't correct right when I shot it. Conclusion: MAKE SURE YOUR BARREL CAP IS TIGHTENED ALL THE WAY (That reads: Tighten until it turns NO MORE). NOTE: I'm sure the error in all of the groups (that is they're not 1/2 to 3/4") was because of me, and not the rifle. However, these were what I call acceptable. [ 10-14-2005, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: Alien Attack ]
  15. How much should the cap be tightened? I took apart my R1 today to find the cap. I have found the cap and also found that it can be tightened to varying degrees. At what point should you stop tightening the cap? I don't see any reference marks and I have a spring, so I'm assuming (you know what that means) that I have the new version. EDIT: I see in the instructions it says that the locking cap should be tighened so that the cap is fully agains the cylinder guide pin. Well, when I first took mine apart, mine was not fully against the cylinder guide pin. As a matter of fact it had quite a bit of tightening down to get there (That reads: It was pretty loose). Apparently the gunstore that put this together didn't read the manual or it worked itself loose. This might account for the accuracy problem as that seems to secure the barrel to the rest of the firearm. Hence the name "barrel locking cap". Then again I thought the spring was suppose to keep it tight regardless of whether or not the barrel cap was completely tightened down or not. Anyway, with that I'm eager to see if anything has changed the accuracy... as luck would have it the range is closed tomorrow. I'll update you all when I get a chance to fire it. [ 10-12-2005, 09:59 PM: Message edited by: Alien Attack ]
  16. I'm still doing research, but what's the final word on the locking cap affecting accuracy? I see the post about it, but there didn't seem to be any final word. After initial shooting, my forearm was loose, so I tightened down the locking cap as much as possible... it seems feasible that this could affect accuracy. I'm pretty sure that I have the new locking system as I bought my gun in august of this year. Any thoughts on this? [ 10-12-2005, 08:47 PM: Message edited by: Alien Attack ]
  17. Any new information on this topic? I have a 30-06 R1 and after approx. 100 rounds, the smallest group I've gotten was ~1" (with a friends handloaded ammo). This only happened once. The rest of the groups where between 3" - 4" with 4" being the norm. I've tested 4 different ammo manufacturers and I can't remember how many different bullet weights. The barrel was broken in properly, and I've had 3 different people (with known ability to shoot small groups with other firearms) shoot the firearm with the same result as me. I know it's not my shooting as I've obtained acceptable accuracy with the many other rifles I own. Now I understand that the R1 is not suppose to shoot VERY small groups, but the above is completely unacceptable, especially when others that have this rifle are shooting very acceptable groups (1" or less). What seems wierd about this issue is there seems to be only 2 results from this rifle in terms of accuracy. Result 1: You obtain great groups and have no problems with the rifle's accuracy. Result 2: You cannot seem to get the rifle to preform to acceptable accuracy standards. These results make me think that maybe there is something (maybe a small unknown manufacturing difference) that is causing some rifles to be accurate and others not. I have a SBE II and now an R1. With the exception of the accuracy issue (unfortunately a big issue for me) I love the R1 and wish to keep it. At this point though unless I can figure out what's going wrong I believe my only option is to sell it and obtain a different rifle. One other thing I've noticed is that the spent cartradges seem to have a small dent in the neck of the case. It seems as though the case is being dented in the extraction process some where. This might not have anything to do with accuracy (or maybe it does) but something to think about. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. [ 10-12-2005, 10:45 AM: Message edited by: Alien Attack ]
×
×
  • Create New...