nimslow
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Posts posted by nimslow
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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:
Maybe make contact with A&S and see if they’d be willing to swap it out?
You have probably seen way more of the A&S units than I have. Are the "Steps" in the front normal? Or should it be even?
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1 hour ago, Milspec said:
How old is that A&S housing? I'm just wondering if it's from recent production.
I got it direct from A&S in February or March this year, don't remember exactly when. In the picture above, you can see the marks where the front of the trigger contacted the front of the pocket in the trigger group. It is "stepped" with two ledges, both are deformed where the trigger hit them. There are no such marks on the factory trigger housing, that has had a couple of thousand rounds through it, with the exact trigger that broke.
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I got my new disconnector pin, and recoil spring yesterday. I could only measure the force to retract the bolt with a trigger pull gauge, but the old spring was about two pounds less force than the new one.
I put everything back together with the OEM trigger. After some experimentation with both trigger housings, I put everything back in the factory trigger housing. I'm leaning towards the trigger pocket in the A&S trigger housing not being long enough. The nose of the trigger contacts the front of the pocket in the A&S housing, before the back contacts the travel limit pin. It also looks like the front of the trigger has more room to travel down in the factory housing. When I get some time, I may open up the front of the A&S and see if that makes a difference.
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1 hour ago, Kevin0610 said:
Is the Asgard Defense rail/side saddle still available?
Everything has been sold.
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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:
Those gouges in the bottom of the A&S frame appear to align with where the trigger broke in half. So my guess is that is where those came from. Sheering that disconnector pin is insane. It's impossible to reassemle the trigger pack if that pin is slightly out of the trigger. The trigger won't seat into the trigger frame if it is poking out one side.
The amount of energy required to sheer that pin and to break that trigger like that would have to be immense. Even a weak trigger should not have allowed the disconnector to be sheered off like that.
I'd double check your new barrel to eye ball those gas ports to make sure they look similar to your 18.5" barrel. I'd feel out the action by racking the bolt to see if you have the proper amount of tension from the main spring. Look over the bolt carrier real well to make sure everything is moving properly. A failure of the trigger is one thing, but a secondary sheering event at the disconnector pin seems like it was being hit way too hard.
The rounds fired, did they feel odd at all?
The two rounds of Federal flite control buckshot that fired felt the same as always. Everything else looks and feels ok, as far as I can tell. Since I had to order another disconnector pin, I went ahead and got a new recoil spring.
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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:
Wow. Never seen that before. What's the face of the hammer look like? Any damage? Pistons look ok and freely move? Any signs of damage to the face of the bolt carrier where the pistons hit?
Do you still have your OEM trigger and disconnector to drop in?
The wear on the hammer face looks normal, the pistons look fine, and move freely. The bolt carrier face has the same marks it's always had from the pistons.
I'm scratching my head on this one. First look at the range, and because the disconnector was loose inside the action, I'd thought it failed at the disco pin hole. Once I got it out, this is what it looked like. The little circles above the trigger are whats left of the disconnector pin. The pin sheared, and each end was left in the holes in the trigger.
It seems the hammer hook hit the top of the trigger, and that caused the failure. I'm wondering if it's the A&S trigger guard. In the front of the trigger pocket, the A&S has two steps, and there are some drag or impact marks there. Using my MK1 MOD 0 eyeball, the FFT trigger looks slightly longer than the OEM one. So perhaps the nose of the trigger was binding enough to let the hammer hook make contact and fracture it. At least thats my best guess right now. Everything felt fine during function checks, and it looked to be working normally after I put it all together.
OEM on the left, A&S on the right.
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A correction to my original post. Upon further inspection, the trigger is actually broken just in front of the disconnector pin hole. So now I'm curious what happened to the disconnector pin.
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I finally got the chance to get to the range for the first time with my M4, after my Form 1 was approved, and I was able to install the 14" barrel. The only other changes I've made were the A&S trigger guard, and a set of wolf springs.
On the second shot, the gun locked up, and the trigger was dead. I had to pull the trigger group to get the action open.
My trigger broke at the disconnector pin hole, the disconnector pin is mia, but the springs and plunger were still in the bottom of the trigger group. I'm pretty sure the trigger and disconnector are FFT parts, from right after they started selling them years ago. The hammer is a geissele. It's run fine for years, up to today.
It looks like I'll have to go with a Briley, since FFT is OOS, and it sucks I cant buy just a U.S. made trigger, I have to buy all the trigger group parts together.
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I ordered a tube on Friday, fully expecting to wait a while. They called for payment yesterday, she said it should ship by Friday.
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Surefire M80 railed forend for the M4. Essentially like new. It's been on and off my gun a few times, but never fired on the gun. No box or documentation., included the original three ladder rail covers.
Discrete Paypal gift/friends and family, or USPS money order.
$350.00 shipped.
AVA light/sling mount. First model, with the pic rail section. Some finish wear under the ring, from where the light was mounted. Includes both size ring sections and all the original hardware. No package or documentation.
$250.00 shipped
Asgard defense (Side armor) top rail, with detachable six round side saddle.
$150.00 shipped.
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1 hour ago, jimbo45 said:
Sexy with the shorter barrel. I had my 14" threaded by briley. Check out the hayl rail if you opt for something other than the surefire forend.
Did briley thread it for Benelli factory chokes? I talked to Rose action sports, and they can only thread Benelli barrels for Rem or Mossberg chokes.
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I've had my M4 for a long time, probably since 2010ish. I did all the 922r parts way back when, put a c stock on, and left it alone. I always said I'd do the form 1, and turn it into a SBS, but life and other projects kept taking priority.
Right before the end of the year, I finally got around to filing the form 1, got it engraved, and when the stamp came back I picked up the entry barrel.
I'm glad I did. It's like a different gun. Much handier with the short barrel.
It's still a work in progress, but it's coming along nicely. I go back and forth, between the c stock, and the field stock I shortened. I still need to add an IWC QD swivel mount to the field stock, Probably ditch the Surefire rail, do the A&S trigger guard and LFT lifter. I'll put a mod light on there eventually, and have the barrel threaded for chokes.
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nimslow, do you have any additional photos of your work? How much did you take off? Was it worth the effort? I don't feel like I need a lot of trimming, but I think I'll be more comfortable.
That's the only picture I have left in my photobucket, as it was several years ago. I can't measure it right now, but I think it's just shy of 13" LOP. I'm 5'8", so the shorter, the better usually works well for me. I do prefer it to the original LOP.
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I'm thinking about buying another field stock to mess around with shorting the LOP. Anyone had luck with this?
I did this one a long time ago. Cut it with a miter saw using a blade for laminates, filled the top and bottom with marine tex, and used a limbsaver grind to fit recoil pad. Not hard at all, but be careful not to use too much epoxy, you can really add some weight to the stock, if you use too much. It's still going strong.
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Very Nice!
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Excellent work nimslow; the stocks are very cleanly cut. I am going to buy some marinetex and give it a try. What type of saw did you use for cutting?
The Speedfeed isn't cut, it's a "tactical" stock for the M1S90. I had to open up the inside, as the recoil spring tube on the M4 is bigger than the one on the M1. I used a cheap brake cylinder hone, wrapped in sand paper, and an electric drill. You have to use a metric bolt, and washers to mount it, since it's not set up for the M4 quick change.
To cut the field stock, I used an electric miter saw, with a blade for laminates.
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Long time return eh?
Pretty cool projects! How do you like that trigger void?
I recent started playing with the M4 again. Installed a GG&G carrier release today, along with a sidearmor rail and side saddle (really liking that, but have to shoot it some to make final judgement). Still waiting for my FFT mag tube (would have gone with kip's tube, if I could have gotten one).
Honestly, I never even noticed the gap between the trigger guard, and pistol grip, when I was shooting it. As of tonight, it's back in the field stock, but I'll be keeping the factory C Stock, just because. May look into a Urbano at some point.
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It would be nice if Benelli would start offering a field stock with a shorter length of pull; until then, I will stick with the C-stock on the ,a little to short, middle setting. Does anyone have any experience with Modifying the LOP on Benelli Stocks? I have always heard the shortening the LOP effects the set comb level of the stock?
I did this one several years back. Filled the hollow part with marinetex. It still works great.
I also messed around with this on my M4 for a while. It's not "quick change" like the factory stocks, but it was pretty comfortable. Still have it kicking around somewhere as well.
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This is my other attempt at a short LOP M4 stock. Speedfeed stock for an M1 (less than $100). I had to open up the recoil tube channel inside the stock. I used a cheap Auto Zone brake cylinder hone, wrapped with 40 grit sandpaper, and my electric drill. It took some trial fitting to get it right, but it works ok.
The big downside, is that you won't have the ability to remove the stock without tools. It's mounted with a metric bolt and washer ( I forget the exact size, and I had to trim the bolt).
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Hoser, without the pad, It's 12", that gives a 13" LOP with the pad. I think I could go another 1/2" shorter if I wanted to.
Aggie, when you cut off the back end of the stock, you remove the bosses the butt pad screws go into, so you have to put something there, for them to thread into. I've seen both pinned-in wood blocks, and the Marine-tex epoxy that I used.
You put Marine-Tex epoxy (get it at any boat shop) in the top and bottom parts of the hollow stock (rough the stock up, so it has something to grab on to), sand flat, and then drill some pilot holes. Then screw the recoil pad screws into the epoxy. Go easy though, It can make the stock pretty heavy, don't use more than you need.
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Yes, it can..
I did this with some marinetex, and a limbsaver.
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HK's with the LEM trigger work well for me.
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No, it's just the stain/sap/whatever on the pine board. Jeez
You are correct sir, it's a grape juice stain on my table, thanks to my son several years ago.
Killed my M4 today.
in Benelli
Posted
Since I only got two rounds out of it, It had to have occurred on the first, or second shot. I'm still thinking the front of the trigger didn't travel as far down as it should have, letting the hook on the hammer strike the trigger, breaking it and the disconnector pin.