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nimslow

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nimslow last won the day on June 7

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About nimslow

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  • Birthday 06/14/1967

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  1. Since I only got two rounds out of it, It had to have occurred on the first, or second shot. I'm still thinking the front of the trigger didn't travel as far down as it should have, letting the hook on the hammer strike the trigger, breaking it and the disconnector pin.
  2. You have probably seen way more of the A&S units than I have. Are the "Steps" in the front normal? Or should it be even?
  3. I got it direct from A&S in February or March this year, don't remember exactly when. In the picture above, you can see the marks where the front of the trigger contacted the front of the pocket in the trigger group. It is "stepped" with two ledges, both are deformed where the trigger hit them. There are no such marks on the factory trigger housing, that has had a couple of thousand rounds through it, with the exact trigger that broke.
  4. I got my new disconnector pin, and recoil spring yesterday. I could only measure the force to retract the bolt with a trigger pull gauge, but the old spring was about two pounds less force than the new one. I put everything back together with the OEM trigger. After some experimentation with both trigger housings, I put everything back in the factory trigger housing. I'm leaning towards the trigger pocket in the A&S trigger housing not being long enough. The nose of the trigger contacts the front of the pocket in the A&S housing, before the back contacts the travel limit pin. It also looks like the front of the trigger has more room to travel down in the factory housing. When I get some time, I may open up the front of the A&S and see if that makes a difference.
  5. The two rounds of Federal flite control buckshot that fired felt the same as always. Everything else looks and feels ok, as far as I can tell. Since I had to order another disconnector pin, I went ahead and got a new recoil spring.
  6. The wear on the hammer face looks normal, the pistons look fine, and move freely. The bolt carrier face has the same marks it's always had from the pistons. I'm scratching my head on this one. First look at the range, and because the disconnector was loose inside the action, I'd thought it failed at the disco pin hole. Once I got it out, this is what it looked like. The little circles above the trigger are whats left of the disconnector pin. The pin sheared, and each end was left in the holes in the trigger. It seems the hammer hook hit the top of the trigger, and that caused the failure. I'm wondering if it's the A&S trigger guard. In the front of the trigger pocket, the A&S has two steps, and there are some drag or impact marks there. Using my MK1 MOD 0 eyeball, the FFT trigger looks slightly longer than the OEM one. So perhaps the nose of the trigger was binding enough to let the hammer hook make contact and fracture it. At least thats my best guess right now. Everything felt fine during function checks, and it looked to be working normally after I put it all together. OEM on the left, A&S on the right.
  7. A correction to my original post. Upon further inspection, the trigger is actually broken just in front of the disconnector pin hole. So now I'm curious what happened to the disconnector pin.
  8. I finally got the chance to get to the range for the first time with my M4, after my Form 1 was approved, and I was able to install the 14" barrel. The only other changes I've made were the A&S trigger guard, and a set of wolf springs. On the second shot, the gun locked up, and the trigger was dead. I had to pull the trigger group to get the action open. My trigger broke at the disconnector pin hole, the disconnector pin is mia, but the springs and plunger were still in the bottom of the trigger group. I'm pretty sure the trigger and disconnector are FFT parts, from right after they started selling them years ago. The hammer is a geissele. It's run fine for years, up to today. It looks like I'll have to go with a Briley, since FFT is OOS, and it sucks I cant buy just a U.S. made trigger, I have to buy all the trigger group parts together.
  9. I ordered a tube on Friday, fully expecting to wait a while. They called for payment yesterday, she said it should ship by Friday.
  10. Surefire M80 railed forend for the M4. Essentially like new. It's been on and off my gun a few times, but never fired on the gun. No box or documentation., included the original three ladder rail covers. Discrete Paypal gift/friends and family, or USPS money order. $350.00 shipped. AVA light/sling mount. First model, with the pic rail section. Some finish wear under the ring, from where the light was mounted. Includes both size ring sections and all the original hardware. No package or documentation. $250.00 shipped Asgard defense (Side armor) top rail, with detachable six round side saddle. $150.00 shipped.
  11. Did briley thread it for Benelli factory chokes? I talked to Rose action sports, and they can only thread Benelli barrels for Rem or Mossberg chokes.
  12. I've had my M4 for a long time, probably since 2010ish. I did all the 922r parts way back when, put a c stock on, and left it alone. I always said I'd do the form 1, and turn it into a SBS, but life and other projects kept taking priority. Right before the end of the year, I finally got around to filing the form 1, got it engraved, and when the stamp came back I picked up the entry barrel. I'm glad I did. It's like a different gun. Much handier with the short barrel. It's still a work in progress, but it's coming along nicely. I go back and forth, between the c stock, and the field stock I shortened. I still need to add an IWC QD swivel mount to the field stock, Probably ditch the Surefire rail, do the A&S trigger guard and LFT lifter. I'll put a mod light on there eventually, and have the barrel threaded for chokes.
  13. That's the only picture I have left in my photobucket, as it was several years ago. I can't measure it right now, but I think it's just shy of 13" LOP. I'm 5'8", so the shorter, the better usually works well for me. I do prefer it to the original LOP.
  14. I did this one a long time ago. Cut it with a miter saw using a blade for laminates, filled the top and bottom with marine tex, and used a limbsaver grind to fit recoil pad. Not hard at all, but be careful not to use too much epoxy, you can really add some weight to the stock, if you use too much. It's still going strong.
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