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Everything posted by nimslow

  1. Since I only got two rounds out of it, It had to have occurred on the first, or second shot. I'm still thinking the front of the trigger didn't travel as far down as it should have, letting the hook on the hammer strike the trigger, breaking it and the disconnector pin.
  2. You have probably seen way more of the A&S units than I have. Are the "Steps" in the front normal? Or should it be even?
  3. I got it direct from A&S in February or March this year, don't remember exactly when. In the picture above, you can see the marks where the front of the trigger contacted the front of the pocket in the trigger group. It is "stepped" with two ledges, both are deformed where the trigger hit them. There are no such marks on the factory trigger housing, that has had a couple of thousand rounds through it, with the exact trigger that broke.
  4. I got my new disconnector pin, and recoil spring yesterday. I could only measure the force to retract the bolt with a trigger pull gauge, but the old spring was about two pounds less force than the new one. I put everything back together with the OEM trigger. After some experimentation with both trigger housings, I put everything back in the factory trigger housing. I'm leaning towards the trigger pocket in the A&S trigger housing not being long enough. The nose of the trigger contacts the front of the pocket in the A&S housing, before the back contacts the travel limit pin.
  5. The two rounds of Federal flite control buckshot that fired felt the same as always. Everything else looks and feels ok, as far as I can tell. Since I had to order another disconnector pin, I went ahead and got a new recoil spring.
  6. The wear on the hammer face looks normal, the pistons look fine, and move freely. The bolt carrier face has the same marks it's always had from the pistons. I'm scratching my head on this one. First look at the range, and because the disconnector was loose inside the action, I'd thought it failed at the disco pin hole. Once I got it out, this is what it looked like. The little circles above the trigger are whats left of the disconnector pin. The pin sheared, and each end was left in the holes in the trigger. It seems the hammer hook hit the top of the trigger, and that cau
  7. A correction to my original post. Upon further inspection, the trigger is actually broken just in front of the disconnector pin hole. So now I'm curious what happened to the disconnector pin.
  8. I finally got the chance to get to the range for the first time with my M4, after my Form 1 was approved, and I was able to install the 14" barrel. The only other changes I've made were the A&S trigger guard, and a set of wolf springs. On the second shot, the gun locked up, and the trigger was dead. I had to pull the trigger group to get the action open. My trigger broke at the disconnector pin hole, the disconnector pin is mia, but the springs and plunger were still in the bottom of the trigger group. I'm pretty sure the trigger and disconnector are FFT parts, from right afte
  9. I ordered a tube on Friday, fully expecting to wait a while. They called for payment yesterday, she said it should ship by Friday.
  10. Surefire M80 railed forend for the M4. Essentially like new. It's been on and off my gun a few times, but never fired on the gun. No box or documentation., included the original three ladder rail covers. Discrete Paypal gift/friends and family, or USPS money order. $350.00 shipped. AVA light/sling mount. First model, with the pic rail section. Some finish wear under the ring, from where the light was mounted. Includes both size ring sections and all the original hardware. No package or documentation. $250.00 shipped
  11. Did briley thread it for Benelli factory chokes? I talked to Rose action sports, and they can only thread Benelli barrels for Rem or Mossberg chokes.
  12. I've had my M4 for a long time, probably since 2010ish. I did all the 922r parts way back when, put a c stock on, and left it alone. I always said I'd do the form 1, and turn it into a SBS, but life and other projects kept taking priority. Right before the end of the year, I finally got around to filing the form 1, got it engraved, and when the stamp came back I picked up the entry barrel. I'm glad I did. It's like a different gun. Much handier with the short barrel. It's still a work in progress, but it's coming along nicely. I go back and forth, between the c stock, and t
  13. That's the only picture I have left in my photobucket, as it was several years ago. I can't measure it right now, but I think it's just shy of 13" LOP. I'm 5'8", so the shorter, the better usually works well for me. I do prefer it to the original LOP.
  14. I did this one a long time ago. Cut it with a miter saw using a blade for laminates, filled the top and bottom with marine tex, and used a limbsaver grind to fit recoil pad. Not hard at all, but be careful not to use too much epoxy, you can really add some weight to the stock, if you use too much. It's still going strong.
  15. The Speedfeed isn't cut, it's a "tactical" stock for the M1S90. I had to open up the inside, as the recoil spring tube on the M4 is bigger than the one on the M1. I used a cheap brake cylinder hone, wrapped in sand paper, and an electric drill. You have to use a metric bolt, and washers to mount it, since it's not set up for the M4 quick change. To cut the field stock, I used an electric miter saw, with a blade for laminates.
  16. I recent started playing with the M4 again. Installed a GG&G carrier release today, along with a sidearmor rail and side saddle (really liking that, but have to shoot it some to make final judgement). Still waiting for my FFT mag tube (would have gone with kip's tube, if I could have gotten one). Honestly, I never even noticed the gap between the trigger guard, and pistol grip, when I was shooting it. As of tonight, it's back in the field stock, but I'll be keeping the factory C Stock, just because. May look into a Urbano at some point.
  17. I did this one several years back. Filled the hollow part with marinetex. It still works great. I also messed around with this on my M4 for a while. It's not "quick change" like the factory stocks, but it was pretty comfortable. Still have it kicking around somewhere as well.
  18. nimslow

    m4 stock

    This is my other attempt at a short LOP M4 stock. Speedfeed stock for an M1 (less than $100). I had to open up the recoil tube channel inside the stock. I used a cheap Auto Zone brake cylinder hone, wrapped with 40 grit sandpaper, and my electric drill. It took some trial fitting to get it right, but it works ok. The big downside, is that you won't have the ability to remove the stock without tools. It's mounted with a metric bolt and washer ( I forget the exact size, and I had to trim the bolt).
  19. nimslow

    m4 stock

    Hoser, without the pad, It's 12", that gives a 13" LOP with the pad. I think I could go another 1/2" shorter if I wanted to. Aggie, when you cut off the back end of the stock, you remove the bosses the butt pad screws go into, so you have to put something there, for them to thread into. I've seen both pinned-in wood blocks, and the Marine-tex epoxy that I used. You put Marine-Tex epoxy (get it at any boat shop) in the top and bottom parts of the hollow stock (rough the stock up, so it has something to grab on to), sand flat, and then drill some pilot holes. Then screw the recoil
  20. nimslow

    m4 stock

    It's not that hard to do, I did mine. Cut the stock with a miter saw, using a blade for laminates, and filled the top and bottom with marine tex. I used a limbsaver grind to fit recoil pad.
  21. Yes, it can.. I did this with some marinetex, and a limbsaver.
  22. You are correct sir, it's a grape juice stain on my table, thanks to my son several years ago.
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