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Everything posted by fishinhunt31

  1. Tried doing a search for those that have replaced the recoil spring in order to shoot reduced loads in a SBE. I purchased the spring through Brownells (Wolff) and am still getting the next round failing to cycle off the carrier. I'm shooting a 1 oz load, with E3 powder using a receipe for 1200 fps, measuring every 10 rounds or so on a scale to make sure the MEC 9000G is throwing consistant charges (isn't that an oxymoron--progressive throwing consistant charges LOL!) So, is my problem having to do with the spring--is it suggested that I run some really heavy, 3" or 3.5" loads through the gun? Is it suggested to "season" the spring with heavey loads? Or is it something to do with the carrier spring? I clean the tube, plunger and spring after every 250 rounds or so. 1 1/8 oz loads no problem, just the 1 oz. Gotta try to save some money with the way lead is skyrocketing. Thanks for the help.
  2. Thanks for all your help. I was invited along to a clays course three weeks ago, and being a bit compulsive, jumped head first into trying to find out all I could about it. Unfortunately, I also one of those that if there is a better mouse trap, I’ll start leaning towards it—but forums like this help me determine if it’s worth it. You folks have been a big help. Thanks again.
  3. I'm mainly looking at using them for clays, skeet and trap. I'm sure that the factory tubes will work well, I was just wondering if the extended tubes were a bit better in giving more consistant grouping. I know you can't have it all, but I wanted more consistancy with the same length of string. From what I've gathered, the Paternmaster or Rhino tubes gave a shorter string. Do you think that the extended tubes give consistancy and the same length of shot string?
  4. Thanks full-bore. Greatly appreciated.
  5. Sorry, I did do a search, but I was looking for someone who could give me feedback on the two chokes. I was under the impression that the braking system in these chokes helped to grab the wad a split second and help create a more uniform shot string. I now understand Paternmaster's use of the lugs. Would it be safe to say that the porting by other brands, if the lugs are not incorportated into the design, won't be of much benifit as it relates to a uniform shot string, and as far as you know is Paternmaster the only choke that has this feature, or are there others? I'm a firm believer of the traditional chokes having a "front loaded" shot string. While I'll admit I haven't patterned my current chokes, I'd like to get other's feedback on chokes that improve upon the shot string and overall patterning. Thanks in advance for the help.
  6. I'm debating on which type of aftermarket choke tube to purchase. I've got a SBE and I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with the Paternmaster, Comp-u-choke or Rhino chokes. In therory, the porting of the choke slows the wad from the rest of the shot string and I understand how that would help keep the patern tighter, longer. Anyone know how the shot string LENGTH was affected? Is it more uniform rather than the "front loading" the pictures depict in the catalog?--I've heard that the crio chokes may or may not perform like advertised, but wanted to get your opinon on them. I guess it's a horse apiece for either the Paternmaster vs the Comp becuase Paternmaster is twice the price, but half as many chokes as Comp so they seem to be even. Anyone be able to comment on performance? Thanks for the help.
  7. Benelli's CS will tell you to put some Gun Scruber into the "weep hole" near the end of the recoil tube and work the action to get all the rust and debris out. If you're like me and can't stand not getting at the spring and internal parts, put the receiver in a vise with a cloth around it to spare it from scratches, put the nut on the bolt at the end of the tube, get a second 8 mm, 1 pitch nut and with some heat--just enough that it's hot to the touch, back the bolt out--it's lock tited in. I cleaned the threads, the tube, etc and put antiseize on the threads and reassembled. Hope this helps.
  8. Thanks Tuck...I'm quickly discovering you da man on this forum.
  9. I was able to clean the spring and tube, but I'm the type that needs to get into every crack to make sure that it's clean. I was also told that a smith would be able to get the bolt off for about $20, but after finding out what it would take to get it off, was able to do so for the cost of an overpriced $.25 8 mm nut. I cleaned the tube, spring and plunger, oiled all parts, antisiezed the threads and replaced. I'm also the type that needs to know the original length and threads of the bolt, don't know why, it just buggs me not knowing. So, on to the next and final question.... Even after I got the gun to accept the reloaded target loads, I had a few 1 1/8 #8s not cycle. I have not tried a 1 oz load, but would like to. Knowing that I can take out the recoil spring whenever I need to to clean, I no longer think that's the problem, but a little more research is needed, who knows, maybe the spring needs to be replaced, but it didn't seem so. Looking at Brownells, the heavy recoil spring works for the SBE and M1. Anyone know if the lighter spring from the M1 will work in the SBE, even though Brownells doesn't list it as such? That was my original goal, to shoot lighter target loads, which I've been seeing is touch and go. I'm not worried about having to switch springs, because now it's not difficult, and when I'm target shooting, I'm a bit compulsive and shoot 200-300 at a session (I've got over 500 rounds in since I bought it back on the 6th). Anyone know if the lighter M1 recoil spring will work on the SBE?
  10. Took me a long time to get to this point....got a tip on a SBE selling for around 500 and I couldn't believe it when the wife said go for it....oh yeah, I wrote that one down to read later I was told that the gun didn't cycle reloads and that it shot high. I wasn't worried because I've heard on this forum how good CS is at Benelli. The recoil spring hadn't ever been cleaned, and this gun was supposedly purchased back in '97 or '98. The gun now cycles like a dream. I put some heat to the recoil tube near the base and was able to back the plug out and clean the tube and the spring, and lightly reoil. Now here is the question....the stock retaining bolt, that screws into the tube, was cut short so the previous owner could get a socket on it...apparently didn't have a 6" extention. How long is this bolt supposed to be? I was able to start a 8 mm nut in order to back the threads back off, but is that bolt a fine or course threaded 8mm? Anyone know? CS was not able to help. Now all I have to do is find out if shim A will solve the low POI and I'm good to go. Curious, when did they go with the raised rib, this barrel is almost like a Monte and don't know if it's the gun or me. Sorry for the long post...lots of great info here, thanks for the shortening the homework!
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