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tlingitndn

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Posts posted by tlingitndn

  1. I've said this many times on this and other sites, but I'll repeat it again.

     

    NEVER order a gun without a clear and concise understanding of a guaranteed ship date from the dealer.

    By understanding, I mean that if the gun isn't in by xx-xxxx, then the deposit is refunded in full or a new date is negotiated.

    Dealers have zero control over what's shipped when.

     

    The best way to buy a new gun is to find a dealer who has it in stock and either go get or buy it online.

     

    And last, but certainly not least, yes, Italians only work when they want to. :p

    Amen to this tucker.
  2. I just bought a slightly used SuperNova yesterday. It looks brand new. I brought it home, stripped it down, and cleaned it. I didn't get an owners manual with it. So I followed the one online. I removed the magazine cap and saw where one corner was slightly pushed in . Is this the way it comes from the factory? I couldn't get the retainer out. I didn't want to break it. What tool do I need to get the spring retainer cap out?

     

    Thanks!!

    Yes, pictures man pictures.

  3. Hi, I don't really know which benelli to get, here is what I want, cost isn't a huge issue:

     

    -Autoloader, 12ga

    -Recoil reduction

    -Be able to shoot 2-3/4 through 3-1/2

    -Barrels interchangeable from rifled slug to choked smoothbore

    -"classic" shaped stock (as opposed to pistol grip)

     

    Those are my only requirements..suggestions? I can't seem to navigate the site very well on my computer :(

     

    How accurate are benellis slug barrels?

     

    Any info would be great, thanks

     

    Matt

    It is a pain and cost a fortune to get other barrels. Nothing wrong with SBEII and slugs.
  4. I was just reading the Benelli sports journal about gun fitmenta dn it says that ALL SuperNovas come with all three of the gel pads for the stock. Is this true?
    I dod not get all 3. Buttpad it came with works fine.
  5. Back when I got mine I bought everything except sabot rounds. All were fun. Local skeet, trap and rifle range had requirements that they only allow certain types of ammo check with them first. If shooting on your own land then its all good.

  6. Why do so many people say that benellis have too much recoil for a sporting gun when benelli claims that they are the softest kicking guns on the market?

    I would say more than likely they do not own a Benelli or they have not really shot one.

  7. 12 and 9 years old. What is the stature? If they are still on the small side I would think a 12 gauge is a little big and go with a Youth Nova 20 gauge. If they can handle the 12 gauge and length and weight then both of your choices would be great. Just as a little special item on the shotguns tray and get the same make and model and see if the vendor can get back to back serial numbers. Sometimes it is hard with little retailers but with big sportsmans warehouse types stores it is easier.

  8. I took a look in mine and the same thing is happening too. I am not to worried about it though. This is the receiver and the barrel slips into it and the chamber is in the barrel not the receiver. I am assuming this is from the pressure and stress that shooting a shell causes. If it does bother you I would have gunsmith redo the finish or try spray coating that you can spray and bake on a new coating. Check out the link.

    www.sportsmansguide.com and use item number HX8A-96464

  9. As Banjo said, it is the forcing cone.

     

    What is a forcing cone, you ask?

     

    The forcing cone is where the inside diameter of the barrel transitions from the chamber diameter, which for a 12 gauge barrel is about 0.800 inches, to the bore diameter, which for a 12 gauge barrel is about 0.729 inches (nominally, unless your gun is back-bored in which case it'll be slightly bigger.)

     

    This cone starts approximately at the end of the chamber (so for a gun with a 3" chamber, the cone would start at about 3 inches from the breech end of the barrel.)

     

    This is also why you should never use longer shells than what your gun is made for. If, for example, you put a 3 inch shell in a chamber made for 2-3/4 inch shells only, it will still fit, but as you fire the gun and the shell's crimp opens, the forcing cone doesn't allow it to get all the way open, which can cause high pressures in the chamber, which the gun is not made for.

     

    Why does your barrel have this change in diameter from the chamber to the barrel?

     

    The chamber has to be a large enough diameter to accept the shell, which is substantially larger in diameter than the wad/shot cup, which is what comes out of the shell and heads on down the barrel and out the muzzle when the gun is fired.

     

    The forcing cone is somewhat of a carry-over from the days of paper or cardboard wads, when a very tight seal was needed to minimize blow-by of the gases from the burning powder. Modern wads do a much better job of sealing the barrel than the old cardboard wads did.

     

    If your barrel were the chamber diameter (0.800 inches) for its full length, it would still work, and probably just fine, since modern wads are soft plastic and are "cupped" at the end, and will spread out or "obturate" to seal even a very large diameter barrel.

     

    But most manufacturers still make barrels with the old nominal 0.729 diameter, which is why most barrels will have a forcing cone.

     

    Good question.

    Great reply. I asked this previously and did not get good answers. I thought no one really know what it was. But now I know.
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