babob

I ordered mine from Amazon. Red fiber optic is very little compared to a lot of other gun sights. I talked to Scott Warren a while back about making one for Benelli SGs and he was not interested. Said that there was already enough FO sights for shotguns on the market, to which I replied, there's not that many for Benelli M4s. The sight also sets VERY high in the front base. When I went to sight it in for slugs @ 50 yards, I had to raise the rear ghost ring ~ 40 clicks! The only time you'll notice the FO dot is when you're really taking the time to aim at say a slug target. Also, it sets so high in the base that it is actually a little higher than the ears on the front sight which concerned me about a possible snagging problem. I do plan to leave it on for at least the rest of this summers shooting events, but I have very seriously considered putting the stock sight back on.

I just sprayed some penetrating oil on where the threads meet the receiver, put it in the safe over the weekend, and on Mon. with very little force, the factory tube came right out. I too was ready to hit Harbor Freight for the heat gun, but ended up not needing to.

Anyone here ever tried one of these before? I'm using a Aimpoint M3 red dot for my AR and my G34 has a FO red front sight, so I thought why not for my M4. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this Hi-Viz sight. http://www.hivizsights.com/M12010-Benelli-Tactical-Shotgun-Front-Sight-P183C2.aspx

It is hollow.

Actually it's not. I took my M4 apart on Sat. and sprayed a little penetrating oil, to be more precise I used "Duralube" spray can oil, stood the receiver upright and sprayed some where the factory tube meets the receiver so that of course the oil would work it's way into the threads. I let it set the rest of the weekend in the safe with full intentions of going to get a heat gun today to remove the factory tube. Before setting out on my quest to the land of Harbor Freight...I decided to try taking the tube off just using gloves and putting it between my legs and guess what.... it broke loose with just a little pressure. The oil did it's job and I saved a few bucks (at least until I need a heat gun in the future). I cleaned all the old loctite out, put a little drop of blue loctite on the new tube and installed it. Hat's off the KIP and his Ti tubes. This sucker looks great and I can't wait to get to the range!

Damn I never thought of that. I bet Harbor Freight has a cheap one. ETA: YEP! http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

I still have not had the chance to hit the range with mine yet. It's been sitting in the safe for about a week now so I got it out last night to see if the trigger group was easier to take out and put back in and I can tell you that it was really easy to do this time. Seems that it molds a little to the rear tab on the trigger group once it has set a while. I'm kinda wishing that I would have gotten the limbsaver one now. But the new LOP fits and feels great. Much easier transistions too. Hopefully after tomorrow I'll get to put on my Carrier Comp tube and like I said before, "922r can SUCKIT!"

You guys are killing me! I got mine in the mail yesterday but the wifey grabbed it and wrapped it up before I could open the tube to see it. I've read that you need a heat gun to remove the factory tube. Is it necessary or has anyone had any luck via other methods?

I assume that you had to remove the trigger group to be able to then remove the stock? The problem I had was that I installed the Urbino stock with the trigger group out. Then I tried to re-install the trigger group and it would not fit. Mitch from Mesa Tact. then replied to install the trigger group first and then install the Urbino...which worked. I left the gun alone (other than taking pics for you guys) for about a day and then tried to remove the trigger group and re-install it without removing the stock.....and it worked just as another poster said...with a little rearward pressure...the receiver pin aligned just fine. I plan to check removing the trigger group and re-installing again without removing the stock, but I'm sure it will be fine. Then hopefully...I'll get to go shoot it!

Couple more...

Will do as soon as I can later tonight. I'll put it in this post.

There is a very small movement of the pad. Nothing that would affect your aim or anything like that. The pad clicks in via two tab. One on top and one on the bottom. The notches in the stock where the tabs go are a little bit larger than the tabs on the pad, so there is just a small amount of play.

Does it feel solid? It's as tight as a stock could be. I love the new LOP! I can't wait to try it out at the range. Maybe tomorrow, if the thermom. gets above 20 deg.!

Hold up there fellas! As Mitch stated, the tolerances are "tight". On the initial install, I could not get the trigger group to align with the pin. It would insert fine but was a good 1/4" from the pin. After following Mitch's instructions...I installed the trigger group first and then the stock and that worked fine. Of course I read the concerns about not being able to field strip due to this issue, so naturally I had to see if it was possible after the gun was put back together. I was able to remove the trigger group just fine. On the re-install I noticed that it did not align just perfect but a little pressure on the trigger guard pushing the group to the rear, aligned the holes just fine. The stock must have given shape to the rear tab on the trigger housing once you have it installed from Mitchs' instructions. I believe that when you tighten the stock screw inside the stock during the install, it forces the stock to mold a little around the rear tab on the trigger housing. So, can you still field strip it...YES. Is it going to be a little tight...YES.