forzArmata
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Posts
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Posts posted by forzArmata
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He said "from what I understand" which to me means he is implying he doesn't have one but has heard possitve things about it.
Lol yes he did. I'm fumbling here watching The Sopranos...
On the same note, what is the diameter of the Carrier Comp handle?
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Sell it to me? If not then I don't care to hear about how happy you are that you have one (and I don't)
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Incredible.
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Got it. That's probably best.
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That's great, thanks SD.
I have an idea...I could get my gunsmith to bevel that entire edge and re-black it so it looks mint. Better to take care of it now than later when it's all mashed.
Thoughts?
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Completely normal. If it was black, I'd say hit it with Alumablack once in a while if it bugs you. After 13k rounds, mine is almost beveled.
Could you post a quick pic?
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Wtf is going on here? It seems that my aluminum receiver is mashing under the force of the shells being ejected(?), from the looks of things. My Benelli is new with under 200 rounds through it. The bolt is cycling as smooth as silk, and there is no evidence of rubbing in any way.
Here's a pic - you can see the aluminum folding over in the direction the shells get ejected. It's fairly minor now, but I can catch the lip easily with my fingernail. And if it's this mashed already, I hate to see it after 1000+ rounds.
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But do you have a Carrier Comp one to sell me?
I have two FFT 3/4" titanium ones too, but I want to try the CC handle to compare.
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If anyone has a new one of these, I'm willing to compensate you for it (as in I'll pay you MORE that what you paid)
Thanks!
Image borrowed from KB Fab on here:
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Yes, they are the factory supplied Z70 rail covers. I like how they dip in the middle - they mate well with the centre cutouts on the side rails (bottom rail on M80 forend is the solid style ladder).
They fit the best on the hand as they keep a low profile, on an already semi-fat forend. I tried KAC stippled rail covers, but they made it WAY too fat, and I have fairly large hands.
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4+1 for mine too with ALL 2.75" shells no matter what brand. The best I could do is get the 5th shell almost in, with maybe 1/2" until it clicked in the tube. Slugs were worse.
Carrier Comp fixed my problem thankfully!
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ForzArmata:
I take it you're right handed? How do you engage the activation switch on the X300 in that position?
I am right-handed, and toggle it with my left index finger. Works like a charm. Given that the rocker switch works in three different ways, it's easily activated when pressed or "rocked" (pulled like a trigger toward the forend, as in my below pic)
It's not as clean as a pressure switch, but keeps the gun ultra clean and makes the light easily transferrable between my weapons.
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Yes, mine too has ample clearance. I'm baffled. I'll try to run my M4 down to my smith tomorrow, and will report back after.
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Unfortunately I didn't notice those marks prior to shooting it the first time. I'll bring it to my personal smith as he is just down the road, and see what he thinks. It seems strange, and like you said, probably something that happened at the factory.
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SD,
Definitely nothing rubbing.
You mentioned "happened during assembly" - those gouge marks are pretty deep, indicating that they probably occurred while the gun was in operation.
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Is there any evidence of the link coming in contact with the front edge of the tube. Is the plunger all there? It's a concave piece of metal, like a tiny dish. Look at the back of the trigger mechanism while it's out. Any evidence of metal on metal contact where it shouldn't be?
Everything looks good, from what I can see. I took out the trigger and took the barrel off, and cycled the bold back a bunch and it is super smooth. The link sits perfectly in that dish and enters the recoil tube without any rubbing. In fact, I can see the rub marks on the link and they don't seem to come even close to any metal parts in there. Strange.
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My bad...edited again. It's an M4.
I'll check now.
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I would inspect the recoil tube and see if anything is amiss there for those other two areas.
Edited to say "recoil link." Thanks!
How do I take apart the recoil tube?
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And the third:
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Andy idea why my M4 has damage do the bolt assembly recoil link after firing only maybe 200 rounds max since purchased brand new?
There is damage in three different locations, here is the first two:
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3/4" FFT titanium on my M4. Love it. I bought two FFT ti knobs so I can replace them as they wear, and a 1/2" FFT titanium as a third backup, but am sticking with the 3/4" as it is much nicer on my hand.
On a similar note, the GG&G Tactical Bolt Release Pad is a MUCH better mod to do, if you had to chose just one over the other...
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Forget the factory X300/X300 Ultra mounts, they suck. Well, they don't suck if you are throwing it on your Glock, but they suck for rails like the SureFire M80 and other picatinny rails that are on AR handguards, etc.
If you plan on using your X300 on picatinny rail setups, I strongly recommend either the LaRue LT-619 mount, or the American Defense AD-170-S mounted onto the LT-619 base. By using the American Defense QD mount, you will save your rail if you running an M80 or any other picatinny rail with the cutout bars. If you have the solid bars then LaRue is a good choice (LaRue mounts use the smaller recoil lug and it mashes the rails with the cutouts, but is fine with solid-bar picatinny rails). Just for reference, the factory picatinny rail which comes on the M4's receiver is the cut-out style, as is the SureFire M80 side rails - the M80 bottom rail is solid. They must have done this to save weight.
LaRue: http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-qd-mount-surefire-x200x300-lights
ADM: http://www.americandefensemanufacturing.com/view/product/105/
I have both the X300 Ultra with the LaRue mount and the ADM mount. I use the ADM on my Benelli for the above reasons.
On the other hand, if you want to run an optic like the Aimpoint Micro T-1, you are best off buying the Carrier Comp rail and using a LaRue LT661. This is what I use on my setup:
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Does anybody have a Carrier Comp or Freedom Fighter Tactical FULL-LENGTH mag tube (with spring) kicking around or a slightly used one (in excellent condition) that they would be willing to sell me? I like the titanium version, but am open to the others metals too. As long as the finish matches the OEM Benelli finish then I’m good.
I am easy on the asking price as they are hard to find up here…
M4 ejection port/action metal mashed from spent shells
in Benelli
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Yes, but what's your point? The hammer is one thing, the finished aluminum receiver is another.
Thank you for your insight. I believe you are missing my point here.. so let me make it clear one more time.
My BRAND NEW Benelli M4 with UNDER 200 shells through it is DAMAGED. Like I said, I can understand wear and tear after a thousand or more rounds, but to have noticeable damage like that after realistically 150+ rounds is just odd. That's my issue. Wear is not a problem as I use my gear and run it hard. I do have a problem however with a $2100 CAD shotgun that is damaged from spent shells (plastic and brass) after one or two shooting sessions.