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The Rattler

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About The Rattler

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/15/1947
  1. I ordered a Cylinder choke from Benelli a couple of years ago for my 2012-2013 Montefeltro 12 gauge. I failed to check the fit of the choke to my gun for about 1.5 - 2 years. Of course, it did not fit. I called Benelli customer support, confessed my tardiness in checking the fit, and was asked if the threads on my barrel were at the lower or upper part of the front of the barrel. I answered that the threads were at the lower part. The choke that I was provided has the threads at the top of the choke, and it doesn't fit. The Benelli rep. said I was given the wrong choke. He kindly said he would send me free of charge a choke that would fit. When the second choke arrived, I quickly checked it for fit. It fit just fine. Further, the threads were located about 1/4 of the length of the choke from the top. But then I looked on the side of the choke and noticed that it says: "Benelli By Trulock, SBE II/M2, IC .715." there are no notches in the top of the choke. What kind of choke is this? My gun is a Montefeltro. It is neither a SBE or M/2. Does "IC" stand for Improved Cylinder? Does .715 represent the constriction? I note that the first choke I was furnished says on it, "Benelli by Trulock, CYL .725." Is the second choke that I was furnished an Improved Cylinder instead of a Cylinder? Will a SBE/M2 choke work on my Montefeltro? What is the significance of the choke threads being at the top of the choke rather than about 1/4 for the length to the top (like the second choke the I was furnished? It seems like I recall the Benelli rep. saying something like my gun requiring a Crio choke, and the the first choke was not. If I remember correctly, what is a "Crio" choke vs a non Crio choke? I was once told that the interior of the barrel to my Montefeltro was not Crio. If that is correct, why is a Crio choke needed? My most important inquiry, however, is what kind of choke is the second one that Benelli furnished me? Thank you very much.
  2. Can anyone recommend a shotgun gunsmith in the Dallas Metroplex who works on Benellis? I live in Plano Texas, a suburb just north of Dallas, but I will travel anywhere near North Dallas for a quality shotgun gunsmith who knows Benellis. My regular gunsmith is quite capable, but he now delegates to less competent people to do his work. Thanks.
  3. I have not found videos or pictures on how to remove the magazine tube and assembly on my 4 year old Montefeltro for general cleaning. 1. How do you get inside of the tube? a. Is it through the tube end next to the receiver? 2. How do you remove the spring? a. The follower seems designed to plug up the tube end. How do you get it out? 3. Can anyone direct me to a video or pictures of this process? A step by step description with pics would be ideal. Older posts on this forum on this subject used to have pics, but they have since been removed. Also, I had my gun thoroughly broken down and cleaned 3 years ago. I do not believe the tube was easily turned then. I've heard that Benelli uses locktite to secure the tube to the receiver at the factory. After the gunsmith cleaning, the tube is loose to the touch, but I tighten it after every cleaning which is practically after every use. 4. Does the loose fitting mag. tube present safety concerns? If I remove the tube is it necessary for me to use locktite when reinstalling it? I imagine these questions seem elementary, but that is the stage where I am now. Thanks.
  4. I shoot trap with my 12 gauge Montefeltro. I use Federal Top Gun Target Load -- 2 3/4", 7 1/2 shot size, 1 1/8 oz, using a modified choke, and a full choke occasionally. Estate shells shoot to the left in patterning tests. Rio's did not, but seem to be "dirtier" to me. While I occasionally use other brands of shells, I haven't run patterning tests with them.
  5. What is the differences between the 3 types of wood stocks Benelli offers for sale on its website? They are as follows: 1. Executive Stock & Forend - $1,285 - Montefeltro & Legacy Models. 2. Regular Legacy Stock & Forend - $ 600. 3. Regular Montefeltro Stock & Forend - $370. Is one of the differences the type of walnut? If so, what are the 3 types & what makes one superior to the others? Or, are their other differences? Thanks.
  6. Thanks. That is much more like what I remember. Note, however, that Montefeltro is not listed as a model the item is for. Super 90 is what it is for. Is something for Super 90 appropriate for s Montefeltro?
  7. I somehow lost my grip cap on the bottom end of the pistol grip of my Montefeltro that I bought a little over 2 years ago. Since it leaves a hole uncovered and exposed, I think it prudent to replace the missing grip cap,I asked Benelli about replacing it and was referred to Brownells. I have 3 questions: 1. The only Benelli grip cap I found on Brownells website is for a Super 90. Will this fit my Montefeltro? The picture appears to have one long & one short "leg" on the sides & no screw hole in the middle. The bottom of my pistol grip has an indention for the cap and a hole in the middle as if it is to be attached by a screw. Could it be that this (Brownells grip cap) is for a synthetic buttstock? Mine is wooden. 2. Are there several models of Benellis that have the same basic design, & hence parts for one can be used on the others? If so, which group does Montefeltro fall into? 3. The grip cap on Brownells site seems rather pricey, $28.00. I saw an ultra light grip cap with one hole in the center on Numerich's site for $30.00. That seems to be a lot for a small & seemingly insignificant item. Is there an alternative that would not appear to to be an armature - like replacement that sticks out like a sore thumb? Thanks.
  8. The Rattler

    Misfires

    Forgive my lack of sophistication, but is the "receiver extension" area that is referenced mean the items behind the receiver itself that includes the recoil spring and its tube?
  9. The Rattler

    Misfires

    Truckcop & Benelligunny: I certainly appreciate the advice & time you devoted to helping me with this issue. Thanks a lot. This is an interesting problem. Any by other comments will also be appreciated.
  10. The Rattler

    Misfires

    Update: Since my last post, I thoroughly cleaned the Montefeltro, & I found an unusual amount of gunk around the locking head. After cleaning it off with CLP, I used MPro 7 gun lube around the locking head area and the area of the barrel into which it rotates & locks (is that called "forcing cone?"). However I tried not to over do the lube. I bought 3 boxes of Winchester AAs just like the shells in my original post (1 1/8 oz. loads, etc.). The intent was to avoid "dirty" firing shells. I fired them at the trap range and it "clicked" once in the same way as described in my original post. I tried to make sure the butt of the stock was well on my shoulder so that there would be enough resistance for the recoil spring to do its job. During my cleaning beforehand, I did not check the protrusion of the firing pin. Please explain how to do that. However, during the cleaning beforehand, I broke down the bolt & cleaned the channel used by the firing pin from the rear through the locking head using a small Q-tip. It was quite dirty. If someone explains how to check the protrusion of the firing pin, I will do that. Assuming that checks out, doesn't all of this suggest the need to replace the recoil spring.? If so, I notice that there are 3 types of springs: light loads, factory specs, & heavy loads. Bad knees make the likelihood of hunting remote. It appears that clays will be my hunted game. Which spring should I buy: the one for lighter loads or factory? All ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Edit: I presume that to check firing pin protrusion, you remove the pin securing the firing pin & spring, and find an object small enough to push the firing to see how far it provides. Query: to check for the burr on the barrel where the locking head enters the barrel, do you simply run your finger in that area to see if you feel a rough spot?
  11. The Rattler

    Misfires

    Thank you very much for this fine reply & the time it took to do it. Permit it me to ramble. I am just short of obsessive about keeping my gun clean. Except on rare occasions, I thoroughly clean my gun after each use. I even use Q-tips of varying sizes for nooks & crannies. While I could be wrong, I doubt uncleanliness of the gun is the cause of the problem. 350 rounds ago, my gunsmith performed a complete disassembly & lube. He said it included everything inside the buttstock. Lack of adequate lube there should not be the problem. Now that I think about it, however, this issue arose after that was done. Perhaps there was an an error in the reassembly, but I doubt it. I do not interfere with with the automatic closing of the bolt. I have been holding my butt higher than before to better align my eye with the end of the barrel. I certainly hope that's not the problem because it improves my performance. I use 1 ounce to 1 1/8 ounce loads with 1200 to 1290 fps. Mabey these are too light, but these are the loads I've always used. The recoil spring is a possibility, but one would think it would not wear out with 3,000 rounds. I will do the Google search that you suggest. Thanks again for the help.
  12. The Rattler

    Misfires

    My 2 year old Montefeltro has misfired a shell twice in the last 250 rounds. I have had duds before, but there is something very different about these last two times. On on both of these recent misfires, there was no dent, whatsoever, on the shells primers. There was no evidence indicating the firing pin touched the primer. An employee of the gun range said he has seen this before, & that it is caused by the bolt failing to go far enough for the firing pin to strike the primer. Does this sound plausible? If this is the cause of the misfire, how is the problem resolved? I shot around 3,000 with this gun. My gunsmith once said that the "spring" is the first thing to wear out on Benellis. Could that be the case here? If so, what "spring" was he referring to, the one in the bolt? Any ideas will be appreciated.
  13. As it turns out, the recoil pad is not attached by screws. Instead, it is attached by 2 long rubber sides on both sides of the pad that fit into slots on both of the sides. You pull it off. This is is contrary to the information & diagram on page 110 of the owners manual regarding wood stocks. A few pages later is the explanation & diagram for recoil pads for synthetic stocks. That also represents the pad for the pad on my Montefeltro wood stock. In other words the recoil pad for both wooden and synthetic stocks are the same. Have others found instances where the owners manual had incorrect information?
  14. I have a Montefeltro with a wooden buttstock purchased in May of 2013. To improve the fit of the shotgun for me, I had my gunsmith trim or cut down the comb of the buttstock. I intend to refinish it myself. My problem is how to remove the Recoil Pad. Page 110 of the owners' manual indicates that there is a butt plate or recoil pad that is attached by screws for the wood stocks. I am unable, however, to locate holes on my recoil pad for such screws. Information from another shotgun forum indicates that later model Montefeltros have a recoil pad that "snaps" on and off. On the other hand, some of their posters indicate that their pads use screws, but they may be owners of older Montefeltros. I came to the Benelli Forum to find the best expertise for this question. Can anyone help?
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