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Jeff in CO

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Jeff in CO last won the day on March 1

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  1. Jimbo, Thanks for the info on the choke. I think it was the Benelli rep at that was working with my agency that had stated that, but I have never seen it in writing. I guess the choke still has me baffled as to why they have always included the modified. When shooting buckshot with the FliteControl wad or Hornady's version, it opens up the patterns with mine. We had anyone going through the transition course switch it out with the cylinder choke just to tighten up those patterns. You're probably right about the lower round count. We ran the M4 transition course (from the 870) ov
  2. The M4 is similar to an AR: heavy lube the bolt assembly, and moderately lube the trigger assembly. Don't do the pistons or the cylinders. Don't dump lube down the firing pin. If you are ever shooting and start experiencing problems, spray some CLP into the bolt through the ejection port. You can do this with an AR as well. I typically always have BreakFree CLP in my range bag for this very purpose.
  3. "High brass" these days is a little bit of a misnomer. There are plenty of high velocity and magnum rounds that use low brass, and vice versa. As for the M4, I've had one for years and even used it on patrol. When I first got it, there would be an occasional misfeed with low recoil buckshot (in the 1,100 FPS range). After a few hundred rounds, I have since never experienced those issues. The rounds I use consistently for tactical work (and defense) are the Federal LE132 00 (9-pellet low recoil, 1,145 FPS with FliteControl) and the Federal LEB127 LRS (low recoil TruBall slug; 1,300 FPS).
  4. PROBLEM SOLVED!!! 😀 Schutzhund, Thanks for the reply! You would know better than I would. I was quickly perusing the M3 manual and probably missed it. As far as I know, it is the same stock system, but I cannot remove mine like they show with the M3 (from the top as that extra "U"-shaped cutout is not on my grip). I think part of my problem is the factory had the retaining nut torqued down so much, it was going to be impossible to move it with something like the bolt. I went ahead and purchased the "Vmotor Chrome Vanadium Adjustable C Spanner Hook Wrench Tool - 3/4-2
  5. What's the RTV mod? I have the Hayle rail on mine and like it but also really hate those stupid screws for field stripping it. Was looking at the new Truckee from Mesa Tactical (8-½" version), but I like the contour of the Hayle better since my Surefire pressure pad is high on the rail for my thumb. Attached is mine (for the record, it does have the benelliparts.net 922r trigger, hammer, & disconnector, plus of course the Hayle rail - it is an original LE model that I used on patrol, but I figured as soon as I swapped the stock, I should do the compliance parts as well).
  6. Schutzhund, Thanks for the reply! I looked at the M3 instructions to see what you were talking about, and the M3 doesn't require that nut to be loosened to remove the trigger group. On the M3, there is an additional U-shaped notch (on top) where you insert the bolt handle to remove the stock (see attached photos from Benelli's website). That's not the part I'm talking about. I'm talking about that locking nut that is only accessible from the sides. The holes are only about ¼" deep, and I did try a screwdriver (partially bent it) and it won't budge. I also tried the charging handle bo
  7. Hi, I'm shamefully new to the Benelli forums. After owning various Benelli's and even using an M4 on patrol, I just never signed up here. Anyway, I recently purchased a new SuperNova Tactical LE model (20159) which utilizes the telescoping stock. The manual states for Trigger Assembly Group removal (Page 59 in the 01/2017 version): "When the pistol grip or telescopic stock is installed on the shotgun the stock must be loosened before the trigger guard assembly can be removed from the receiver. To do this partially unscrew the pistol grip stock retaining nut or the telescopic grip
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