worn part

[bluedavis]

I was cleaning my SBE the other day and notice that the bolt locking head pin has an unusual wear pattern on the flat spot that faces rearward (see pic). The gun is only a couple years old and I don't shoot all that much. Has anyone else notice this? I'm wondering if this is a symptom of a bigger problem and might be related to the repeated jams that I have experienced.

[mudhen]

Same wear pattern as all of my Benelli locking head pins.

 

But, a few years ago I sent an SBE back for some work and Benelli replaced my locking head pin with a "revised" one.

 

You can buy a new pin for $12 at Brownells, but I doubt it is causing your jams.

 

I have lots of funny wear marks that don't seem to cause any trouble.

 

I would contact Benelli with this question.

 

mudhen - CA

[bluedavis]

 

 

[ 09-04-2004, 10:29 PM: Message edited by: Montefeltro ]

[bluedavis]

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll have to explore some other reasons for the jamming. Does anyone have an idea what causes a gun to jam? The spent cartridges end up sticking out of the receiver sideways, with the bolt closed on top of them.

[M1014]

consult your manual,sounds like your ejector system needs oiling ,maybe loose ejector base plate,spring wore out ,ejector pin busted etc,this info is based on the m1 super90 & M1014 Benelli models, good luck M1014

[bluedavis]

Hmmm.....not likely anything is worn, because the gun isn't that well-used. The problem has been intermittent, on some days it works fine and on some days I want to throw it. I've been careful to oil the recoil tube and also the area where the bolt slides in the receiver, but haven't paid particular attention to the ejector plate. That might explain the 'hit and miss' nature of my cycling problem. Now I just have to wait until my next venture out.

 

Thanks for the idea.

[Drundel]

called stove piping. some benellis are famous for this with cheap oil. i would strip it down and clean everything and then LIGHTLY oil it with something like miltec-1 or fp-10.

 

i work with a guy whose M1 works the best when its almost dry and some i know swim theirs in CLP so...

 

but first i'd try my first suggestion.

[bluedavis]

Thanks. Stove piping - now I know what to call it.

 

I've been using Break Free LP - something that was given to me by the dealer when I started having problems. I've tried the extremes of dry to swimming in oil.

 

What do you think are the critical oil points? Certainly the grooves where the bolt slides, and maybe the ejector plate. Anything else?

[Drundel]

Any place there is metal to metal sliding action, i put a light coat of grease there, then I wipe down most of the inside of the gun with a cleaning patch with oil on it. so far so good.