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remarkable

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Posts posted by remarkable

  1. You have a recoild spring that needs to be replaced. This is the most overlooked maintenance that must be done to keep your Benelli operating smoothly. Let me know if you need directions to complete this process. I will need to know what year your super 90 is. Replace the spring with a Wolffe 25% increase spring. There are several good posts on this website that I have documented Benelli recoil spring issues.

  2. The M1 Field and the Montefeltro have minor differences. The Montefeltro is in most forms wood stock. The Montefeltro is 3-4oz. lighter depending on barrel length and the drop at comb is 1 1/2 vs. 1 3/8". Your indicate you are going to use the gun for waterfowl hunting. I own each of these models, my suggestion would be a M1 camo 24". This model you could use for everything, ducks, turkey, upland game. The camo has a slight advantage over the synthetic because it offers a better level of protection against rusting. The Montefelro is very suspect to rubbing of the blueing in waterfowl hunting conditions. The 24" barrel swings extremely smooth and sets a nice balance on a M1 Field. The camo will cost you a few more dollars but the additional protection is worth it. I have a SBE, M1 Field and a Nova with camo and 24" barrels. The basic operating system is the same in both guns. Hope this helps!

  3. The Sure Cycle System looks like a great addition to a great gun. I view this product as a alternative to proper recoil spring maintenance. Experience with cause and effect cycling problems has me to come to the understanding, the majority of Benelli cycling problems relate to the recoil spring. I have 2 SBE's, 2 M1 Field's and a original H&K imported Montefeltro and regulary do extensive end of the year maintenance on 10 SBE's and 15 M1 Fields. The above statement "If it Ain't broke don't fix it" is great. Many Benelli's have performed well with the factory spring. My Montefeltro went 10 years without cleaning or spring replacement operating perfectly. I do however have 3 M1Fields all with similar serial numbers that began to fail after 1 year of heavy shooting. When the bolt does not close when chambering the second shell, this is when you want to replace your recoil spring. The spring at this point does not have enough force to rotate the bolt into the closed position. This will increase as outside temperature drops. To keep the recoil spring in good operating condition clean it ever year. Gun Scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush works great. Then lube the spring, to prevent corrosion with a synthetic lube. Synthetic will help with congeal at low temperatures. Finally, every gun I own and maintain now has Wolff 25% increase springs. I have found the Wolff spring to perform superior to the original. I do not shoot 7/8 oz. low base shells. Wolff offers a decrease spring as well for these shells. I have found great results with the Wolff hammer spring as well, it puts noticeable deeper dimples on the primer. Hope this helps!

  4. When you replaced your recoil spring, did you replace it with a Benelli recoil spring? My experience with Benelli spring has been poor. The Wolff 25% increase spring works far better than the original on every application I have used. M1, SBE, Montefeltro. Caution, I do not shoot 7/8 low base shells. Are your shells getting wet, (swelling)? Are you cleaning the recoil spring assembly yearly? Are you lubing the assembly properly?

     

    Patterning problems: are your sights original? If you installed a TRU Glow or similar bead on the gun, it will shoot low because the diameter of the sight is larger. The further you pattern the lower it will be. I tried this with a M1 field, it will not work. No one wants to compensate this by shooting at a different sight point. I am installing a ATN digital sight mount on a Aimpoint saddle mount for my M1 Turkey Gun.

     

    Hope something here will help!

  5. Good information above. Let's clear up a few things. The recoil spring should be cleaned every year. Gun Scrub & a 20 gauge wire brush thru the tube works great. Then lightly oil the spring, (to prevent corosion) with sythetic lube. This will assist with congeal at low temp. operations. Additionally the recoil spring should be cleaned when submerged. With heavy use the recoil spring should be replaced at first sign of the rotating bolt not closing on the follow up shot. My experience is the Wolff 25% increase spring works far better than the original, however I do not shoot low base 7/8oz. shot. The original Benelli Montefeltro imported by H&K did not even have a nut to unscrew the bolt assembly to get the rear spring out. I have replaced many recoil springs and found heat needs to be applied in half of the replacement I have done. A Bic type lighter for 45 seconds usually is all you need. Concluding the recoil spring is a vital part of your Benelli autoloading shotgun. It is also the most ignored component. Clean it, replace it when needed and your gun will perform without fault. I have shot one of the original Montefeltro's imported by H&K and 3 other Benelli's for years and they are without question the premier shotgun on the market!

  6. The Montefeltro is a nice gun. I have owned a Montefeltro, M1, SBE, and the Nova. I think you need to ask youself what are you going to use the gun for. If it is a hunting gun and you do not need 3 1/2" my preference is the M1 24" camo. The camo affords nice protection for the gun. The montefelro is a low rib, the M1 is a high rib. My SBE is the last of the low rib, they are now high rib. I would not get to caught up with this. I shoot all of these Benelli's the same. The Benelli you choose will be a great gun. The key to keeping your Benelli operating like new is the rear spring. Learn how to clean it and replace it. You will not here to much about this but this is often overlooked.

  7. Originally posted by tooTactical:

    What's the proper way to change the recoil spring in a M1S90? The plug in the recoil tube has flats on it and a 17mm deep socket fits on it but that thing just doesn't want to come out. Is it loctited in or something?

    You are fortunate to have a newer model with hex head. The older models such as the original Montefeltro imported by H&K did not. I have replaced several of these. More than half of the time you need to apply heat to the threading. This can be done with a bic type cig. lighter. This is all I ever needed. Heat the threading area, put receiver in a big vice, carefull not to crush it. Now use a closed end 17mm wrench and back out the bolt assemble. No need to reapply locktite because you should replace this spring every other year anyway and disassemble the spring for cleaning, yearly. I run a 20 gauge wire brush and Gun Scrub thru the tube and lightly lubricate with sythetic lubricant. Hope you are replacing the spring with a Wolff spring. Think about a new hammer spring while your at it.
  8. Originally posted by tooTactical:

    What's the proper way to change the recoil spring in a M1S90? The plug in the recoil tube has flats on it and a 17mm deep socket fits on it but that thing just doesn't want to come out. Is it loctited in or something?

  9. I am looking for advice on 2 componets for a new Nova turkey gun.

    1. I want to mount a ATN digital on this gun with a saddle mount. Which is better, B-Square or Aimtech. How can I get one in camo!

    2. Briley has a Hevi Shot Turkey extended camo black oxide .675. Has anybody shot this combination of chke and gun.

     

    Assistance would be very much appreciated.

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