truckcop
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Posts posted by truckcop
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Just curious, not trying to incite a riot. I know all about their rifle triggers but this is a shotgun. What does does an aftermarket hammer do that the OEM doesn't.
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Be more specific. Is it ejecting spent rounds but not feeding new ones? Not ejecting/extracting? And so on. Lot's of stuff comes under the heading of "cycling problems". What is it doing exactly?
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The magazine tube isn't really "designed" to come out routinely. Extensions replace the cap, not the whole tube. The tube is usually secured with a form of Loctite unless yours has been out before and wasn't re-Loctited. It usually takes a heat gun to loosen the loctite before the tube will come out of the receiver. If yours was loctited and still came out, that cap is mighty stuck. I'd try a light penetrating oil, let it stand for a while, maybe a couple of days of oiling it. You don't want to be too agressive in clamping down on the tube because it's relatively thin and not nearly as strong as, say, the barrel. A rubber strap wrench around the tube next to the end cap and another one on the end cap might do it. You can still crush the tube with a strap wrench so you don't want to muscle it too much.
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Most states have a "use tax". Basically, you buy something from out of state to use in your state, a use tax is applied. With internet sales these days, states have been cracking down and trying to collect a tax that has always been difficult to enforce. Generally, it's up to the buyer to report it. Yeah, that's gonna happen. They figure they're loosing billions in revenue. That may be what you're dealing with, some variation of that.
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So why didn't you consider the M2 20 ga? That would have been my choice.
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With the little bit of shooting I've done so far to get it sighted in, not that I can tell. I hope to shoot in a 3-gun match this weekend. We'll see.
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Well, can you seen any places on the interior of the barrel that look like the chrome is flaking away? It may have just been bits of lead that had adhered to the interior that are coming out. Generally, powder residue isn't going to "cake" up just past the chamber. It's usually either lead or, more likely, plastic from the wads. If the lining of the barrel is nice and smooth and shiney all the way down, the barrel is probably GTG.
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You could always go with the Nordic release button but you would have to drill/tap it yourself. Not that difficult if you have the right tools.
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It's no more difficult than picking up the red dot on an Aimpoint T1 or similar optic. It's mounted low enough that when I mount the shotgun in my regular cheek weld position, the dot's right there on target. Ideally, I'd mount it out on the barrel. But the RMR dot gets bigger as you move it farther from your eye and doesn't allow as much precision for shooting slugs on farther targets.
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Final pics
And yes, I've blacked over the fiber optic portion of the sight. I've got RMR's mounted on other guns and found that in full sunlight the dot is just too bright. The judicious use of a permanent black Sharpy tones it down quite a bit. It's still opaque enough to pick up bright sunlight and doesn't lower it too much if it's cloudy.
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More pics
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Final mount with RMR installed. The rear of the receiver had plenty of material to tap into. The front, quite a bit less due to the configuration of the interior and exterior. There's only enough material to get a couple of threads to tap so I played it safe and used red loctite plus a bead of JB Weld underneath the rail section. I doubt it will come off short of smacking it with a sledge hammer.
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Decided to chance it and go ahead and drill/tap the M1 receiver for the rail section.
I had the Mesa Tactical rail that was designed for the M2 Tactical which is already d/t'd but could be installed on a M1 as well. After putting in on temporarily with the sight mounted, I found it to be just a tad too high so I went with a section of rail from YHM.
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I've never really found such materials to work very well, especially for spot-work. They either don't work at all or the color ends up not matching.
Forget about it. It's aluminum and it ain't gonna rust. Think of it as having character. It's a workhorse shotgun. Take it out and shoot it. If it's really that important, send it off to a professional refinisher like Ro-Bar and get the whole thing done in one of their super-duper finishes.
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New stuff. They call it "aluminum".
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I've got a short YHM rail (designed for free-float forends) coming. I have a Mesa Tactical rail designed for the M2 Tactical which already has the receiver drilled/tapped, but as I mentioned, it's a little higher than I would like. My older M1 isn't tapped. The primary concern I have is the receiver is designed for rifle sights and has a groove along the length of the top which takes away almost half of the material that you would tap into. It appears thicker near the rear and that's where I'm looking at tapping. I don't think there's enough material to adequately tap closer to the front of the receiver. It's still a work in progress and I haven't ultimately decided on how I'm going to proceed.
The RMR tritium would probably be lost under the scenario you put forth. I have one on a rifle with a light and that's what I've found. It depends on what you're going to use it for. If it's home defense you're talking about, if I'm close enough to light up a BG with the light in a completely dark room, I'm probably close enough to light him up with a shot without finding the dot, if necessary. I'm planning on using this particular shotgun for 3-gun so that's not really an issue.
I've got other old M1's and they've got various devices hanging on them, i.e., side saddle, light. Function of those guns has never been an issue. I don't think just adding a RMR will have much of an effect on your gun's operation.
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Funny you should ask. I'm waiting for UPS to deliver a rail section to install on my M1 receiver. I have a RMR waiting to go on it. I have one rail section from another manufacturer but it's just a tad high. The lower rail should put the dot right where I need it and still have a good cheek-weld on the stock. We'll see how it works out. For me, the T-1 would be too high and I would have to raise my head off the stock too much. The Burris mount puts their sight in the right place vertically for me but like you, I would prefer a more forward placement. Plus, I prefer the dual illumination RMR's. No batteries.
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The M1 forend is slightly different. You'll either have to use a M2 forend or modify the M1's. The M2 barrel itself works just fine on a M1 receiver.
"Search" function can be your friend. Previous thread: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/23393-M1-and-M2-Barrels?highlight=m1+m2+barrel
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That's what mine looks like too but I've never taken the tube off the receiver so I'm not certain how it's put together. I have an older schematic that shows the tube as one piece. Who knows? If you're not having a problem with it feeding the last couple of shells out of the tube, I wouldn't worry about it. Mine's over 20 years old, gets shot regularly and have never had a problem feeding out of the magazine.
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OEM. Those first imports had the full-length mag tube.
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Not sure about the M4 but I have an older M1 entry gun that came from the factory with a +2 extension. The spring is a standard length spring exactly like the one that is in my field M1. I've never had a single problem with it feeding rounds properly. Perhaps the M4 +2 can use the standard M4 magazine spring as well. Just a thought.
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My first thoughts whenever a cold weather mis-fire occurs is to break down the gun and give the firing pin, spring, and bolt a good cleaning. Oil left in the firing pin channel will eventually evaporate to a grease like consistency. Add in cold temps and it's not hard to imagine the firing pin moving very sluggishly, if at all, at the hammer strike.
My guns are well oiled, but their firing pins are just about bone dry. A slight wipe with a small patch that has maybe two drops of oil is all that area receives.
Best of luck!
What he said.
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Basically, it has to do with how you mount the gun. Pay attention to your view down the top of the receiver/barrel when you mount it. If you see a whole bunch of receiver and barrel, then you will shoot high. It might just take raising the stock on your shoulder so you really only see the bead/front sight hovering right on top of the receiver. Changing the angle of the stock in relation to the receiver with the shims performs the same function. It lowers the bore in relation to how you have the stock mounted on your shoulder. Have someone who knows what they're doing look at how you're mounting the gun and they can provide some feedback on whether it's just a mounting issue or whether the stock angle needs to be adjusted. There are many other pieces of the puzzle that affect how the gun points. A stock that's too long can also affect how the gun points when you mount it.
Also. Get over yourself. You're complaining because someone out here didn't jump right on your problem. You provided precious little info on what kind of shooting you're doing, your experience, etc., other than the gun "shoots high". Whole books have been written on how to shoot a shotgun. Do a little google searching on the proper mounting of a shotgun. NSSF website has some videos on the subject. So do a lot of others.
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It doesn't hurt to have the spare parts available, just in case. After you get it cleaned up and it goes back to working just fine, no big deal. Just put the spares aside for that day when cleaning it just isn't enough.
I've never loctited the recoil tubes when re-installing them and have never had a problem there.
mag tube help please
in Benelli
Posted · Edited by truckcop
If it's an item regulated under ITAR, NOBODY in the US can ship it overseas without the proper export licensing, business or private.