Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

truckcop

Members
  • Content Count

    817
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

truckcop last won the day on October 12

truckcop had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About truckcop

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/25/1952

Personal Information

  • Biography
    32 years LEO, retired '09. 20 years as state agency firearms instructor and armorer
  • Location
    N. FL
  • Interests
    Shooting - guns. Shooting - cameras.
  • Occupation
    Retired LEO
  • loginname
    truckcop
  • displayname
    truckcop

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. From the schematic, there's a retaining clip on the end holding everything together. I assume there's a groove in the end of the guide rod that the clip locks into. Look at it closely since the schematic doesn't really show what kind of clip it is. It might be a type of "C" clip that just pushes off, or it might be some sort of snap-ring that requires a special tool. Put the tail-end of the guide rod assembly down on a table and pull the spring downwards away from the retaining clip. That might give you a better look at what you're dealing with. Ian at Forgotten Weapons did a field
  2. Some of that depends on the specific model, but; Trigger: It's a shotgun, not a precision sniper firearm. Suggest you stick with the OEM parts. But that's just me. Choke: For a defensive SG, stick with Cylinder or Improved Cylinder. But that's just me. Red Dot Advantage: Both eyes open, focus on target, quicker shots on target. . Period. That's NOT just me. That's a RDS fact of life. There's a reason that competition shooters separate iron-sight classes from classes with RDS's. Other bolt-ons: Sky's the limit, along with your wallet contents. Knock yourself ou
  3. Your description needs a bit more as it is unclear what you mean by " . . . the shell stays in line with the chamber . . . " Is the spent casing being extracted from the chamber and not ejecting, or does the spent casing remain in the chamber? If it is being extracted from the chamber then there's possibly an issue with the ejector. If it stays in the chamber then the first thing to look at is the extractor. In addition, is it happening all the time or just once in a while?
  4. Suggest that you actually try it out with a number of different loads. Semi-auto shotguns are notoriously inconsistent in how they operate with different loads. I've had M2's that operate perfectly regardless of the load and M2's that were finicky. It's the same with patterning. Shoot your gun with a variety of loads including "low load" shells. If it works, carry on. If not, either change loads or fiddle with pieces-parts. No sense in spending money up front for additional pieces-parts if it will work without having to do that.
  5. Oh, for crying out loud! art950, you have responded to a post that is over 13 years old and the poster you responded to hasn't visited the site since one day after his post. The last post to this thread was 8 years ago. Are you familiar with the term "necropost"? "A necropost is a post on an "old, abandoned thread that has been considered 'dead' for a while...that no longer serves any purpose but is bumped back up to the top of the forums by someone posting in it." Necroposting is seen as a form of spam and clogs up the forums with old and unneeded topics." And now, you've ma
  6. If it's happening with the bolt locked back the rattle will be the inertia spring behind the locking head within the bolt body. When the bolt is in battery, the locking head is pushed back against the spring. When locked back, the inertia spring is free to move back and forth. Not sure what it would be if the bolt is forward.
  7. Go to Benelli first. Replacements on your own dime are not cheap.
  8. Yep, had a friend break two on his original SBE. Last replacement was the newer stamped steel riveted version. He hasn't broken it since. He was mostly shooting geese with 3 inch mags. My older M1's still have the cast version. So far, so good on them.
  9. Oh, the possibilities. (not enough info - happens all the time? once in a while? All ammo? Just one type? Evidence of firing pin strike on case? None such? Had the gun since new? Just picked it up at the pawn shop?) As a start: Ammo - if you're using one type of ammo, try others to see if results are same. If not, stick with the ammo that works. Dirty firing pin/channel - remove the bolt, disassemble, clean, reassemble. (no lube on firing pin) Worn/broken firing pin tip - replace firing pin Light hammer strikes - Dirty lower - clean the lower
  10. Assuming you're asking about the "item number", as Benelli calls it on their list of firearms models. I doubt you'll find anything on those 90's HK imports. Benelli USA probably doesn't have records of those guns. You might do an inquiry with Benelli Italy by the serial number. They may have what you're looking for. I've got a couple of old manuals from back then but they don't indicate "item numbers", only model designations, i.e., Super Black Eagle, M1 Super 90, etc. Just curious. Why?
  11. All semi-auto shotguns (yes, even Benelli) can be finicky about the ammo it likes. It's like Forrest Gump's mama said, " . . . you never know what you're gonna get." There are a plethora of threads here from folks who have issues with their Benelli (fill in the blank) not reliably cycling along with a plethora of different answers about what works and what doesn't. You will find that the Federal Grand is or isn't an okay decision when you actually take it out and shoot it. I've got M1/2's and 4's and each version has different loads they just don't like and sometimes it isn't consistent be
  12. "Disappointing that the article nor the display carton mention use of Federal’s Flitecontrol wad. That makes such a significant difference in pattern and shot consistency in my own testing. " According to another article it does not use the FliteControl wad. It uses their "Triple Plus Wad System".
  13. Benelli does have a history of changing things up like that and folks not realizing it until they try to fit something that don't really fit any more., i.e., mag tube threads, forearm design, barrel configurations, etc.
  14. If the barrel is cut off, that really sucks for the dealer. Someone like Briley might be able to make a custom length choke but that would probably cost as much as a used barrel.
  15. For that last check, close the bolt fully and run a dowel down the muzzle and check the barrel length. Is it whole number, i.e., 21", 26", etc., or is it 25 & 3/4, 27 & 7/8. Might give you a clue. I need to go to sleep now.
×
×
  • Create New...