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truckcop

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Everything posted by truckcop

  1. Aftermarket stuff. Stick with OEM.
  2. As to the hammer travel, with the trigger group out of the receiver, that's normal forward travel. With the trigger group removed, DO NOT pull the trigger and let the hammer go forward on its own. Like the AR15 lower with the upper receiver removed, you could cause some damage. Heating the receiver to remove the tube is highly unlikely to have damaged it.
  3. Had one back in the day. Useless appendage. Save your money. Or use it to buy more ammo.
  4. Only patterning it off your own shoulder will answer your question. Armchair answers? Not so much.
  5. I've hade a couple of the GGG's installed for at least 10 years now, if not more. I don't remember even getting a spring from GGG back then. As I recall, I used the OEM.
  6. truckcop

    M2

    If it's a "custom" gun, there's no telling what you'll get. If the trigger group has been futzed with, try replacing the springs with OEM and see if they will do better. If a lighter recoil spring was installed to be more "reliable" with lighter ammo, try switching back to OEM on that as well. On several occasions I watched Tom Knapp shoot extremely fast splits (no I didn't have a timer but I know what I saw) with his bone-stock M1's and M2's. Ten hand-thrown clays requires a fast action. Among other things. Just curious: What are you shooting that calls for less than .2 splits with a shotgun?
  7. Yes, they were offered in wood-furniture hunting guns although the 21" versions were probably less common than the longer ones.
  8. Just me, but I prefer the Nordic Components button which is round. I've got the GGG on a couple but due to the rectangular shape it's vulnerable to getting hit on an angle that can loosen the stud attached to the release bar since it's only a press-fit. I don't see the Nordic button on their website any more but they appear to be available on ebay and other sites.
  9. Since the barrel you have and the barrel you want are designed for different receivers I doubt you'll have much luck coming up with someone to trade with. Your best bet is to sell the GR barrel and try to buy the one you want. I've actually had a bit of luck in past years buying a couple of M1/M2 barrels at reasonable (relatively) cost off GunBroker but that's hit-or-miss. The next best thing would be to sell your GR M2 and buy a standard field M2. Good luck.
  10. Setting aside the Covid/BidenCrap inflated prices, that's a "want-to-sell-it" price rather than a "look-what-I-have" price. Entirely reasonable.
  11. Is there not a choke in the barrel you can compare others to? From Briley's website, a comparison of Benelli chokes: https://www.briley.com/c-262-12-gauge.aspx
  12. Nope, you'll just have to live with it until you get a new stock. I tried all sorts of "remedies". Nothing helped.
  13. I shot a bunch of it back in the day. As I recall it worked quite well in my M1's and I seem to remember it was very clean ammo. I tried to buy more but it had disappeared. I think I have one unfired shell on a shelf somewhere.
  14. Appears to be just a marketing thing. Both have identical specs/performance based on their respective spec charts. One is marketed as a hunting round, the other as a "tactical" law enforcement round. If one works but the other is available I'd buy it.
  15. It's a later model SBE. (There was no "SBE 1" - the originals were SBE, followed by SBE II and SBE 3) The trigger guard is rounded, not squared off in front like the SBE II and the forearm is the original fat version rather than the slimmer version of the II. It's a later model because it has the stamped/riveted steel link attached to the bolt rather than the original cast version which were subject to breakage. I replaced two of the originals on colleagues' guns after they broke hunting geese in Canada shooting tons of 3.5 inch goose loads.
  16. What gun/stock are you trying to install it on? They're not all the same. I've installed one on a M1 but that was easy peasy.
  17. If you can find one, recommend that you go with OEM. I had issues with proper fit of a Sure Cycle several years back. Issues may have been resolved by now but I've never had issues with OEM extensions.
  18. Yes, it will work. Just about anything coming out of a 12 gauge at door-bustin' distances will work on bustin' doors. Frangible is preferable. Raiding some crack houses are we?
  19. Primary difference would be that the M2 receiver is one-piece, all aluminum while the SBE has a two-piece receiver with a steel upper that's part of the barrel assembly and an aluminum lower portion. SBE would therefore be heavier than the M2. Inertia firing system is pretty much the same in each. The SBE has always been considered a heavier-duty type gun able to take more use with heavier loads vs the M's. I've got both (12 ga.) and functionally there's not much difference. The lighter M2 has a bit more felt recoil than the heavier SBE but in actual use in the field I never notice it.
  20. Contact Benelli customer service. They may be able to provide (sell) the fine-thread part. Or, contact Midwest. They may have the correct part. And for future reference, a pipe wrench isn't a proper gunsmithing tool. Just sayin'. ?
  21. M2 barrel will fit the M1. There will be some necessary modifications to the M1 forearm for it to fit. Finding a barrel will be your main impediment. They'll occasionally show up on ebay or gunbroker. Shoot clays with the barrel you have. I shoot skeet, sporting clays, and pheasants with 19 and 21 inch barrels.
  22. If you can find one, the OEM extensions are preferable. Next on my list would be Nordic Components extension. If you're flush with cash, go whole-hog and go with a monotube replacement (full length tube, not an extension) by Roth Performance, formerly X-Rail by RCI.
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