truckcop
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Posts posted by truckcop
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Would this also help loading with gloves on? I always get the leather pinched . . .
Yep, most likely, depending on the type of gloves.
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Well, since FFT's website says they're in Pre-Order status, I doubt there's anyone who can vouch for them. I've got Tarans on all my M1/M2's now and they work great. Haven't had a feeding issue that could be traced back to them. It must be said, however, I never had a feeding issue with the OEM's. The primary reason for the original modifications that were made to OEM's was the thumb catching between the carrier and the receiver when loading old-school underneath. (that's just gauche today - if you're not doing the load-2 or load-4 or load-6 or whatever the latest high-speed technique is, you're just behind the times) The newfangled loading procedures, at least for competition, seems to have eliminated the need for that modification since the thumb isn't in the same position while loading shells. Anyway, I digress
. I still do it old-school, one at a time, underneath. If it was good enough for daddy it's still good enough for me. 
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Apparently you haven't seen the YouTube videos. A sampling:
This one and others have been out there for over a year.
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As to your feeding issue, in addition to the possibility of a recoil spring problem, there's a slim possibility that the magazine spring may be a bit weak or the magazine tube is in need of a cleaning. You indicate that it fires/extracts/ejects with no problem. Are your misfeeds on the last shell in the magazine? If so, the mag spring may not be pushing that last shell out of the magazine far enough to properly engage the mechanism that sets the feeding sequence in motion.
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what does the little spring buried in the receiver end of the barrel do?
That little spring is the ejector spring. The plate that covers that spring is the ejector. That won't have anything to do with the issue you're having.
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I like Shooters Choice Bore and Choke cleaner but there are lots of products out there. My guess is that what you're seeing isn't all lead fouling but plastic fouling from the wad/shot cup as well. That plastic is sometimes more difficult to remove than the lead.
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Anyways apparently Benelli did offer a wingless ghost ring at one time, I doubt it fits on any of their more recent guns though.
That sight was never a stand-alone sight. It was always paired with the protective wings. They were just a separate piece rather than an integral part of the base.
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Where did you get the bolt release button? Can you post a link?
I'm not him but that button looks like a Nordic. He says it's a factory button but it looks like the button on Benelli's M2 3-gun shotgun. Unless they've changed, they make the 3-gun mods after the gun is imported and the button came from Nordic. https://nordiccomp.com/categories/nc-speed-button-for-autoloading-shotguns/
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If it's factory camo then it is probably a M1/M2. Although anything's possible. If it's a Montefeltro the barrel nut screws onto a threaded stud at the end of the magazine tube rather than the tube itself. Other slight differences but that's probably the easiest to check. Other than the marking on the receiver that says Montefeltro.
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GG&G also makes one for the M1/M2/M3. That one should fit the SBE.
https://www.gggaz.com/benelli-tactical-charging-handle.html
Here's a thought. Give them a call.
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Be more specific about the problem. "Jam up" doesn't effectively describe the issue your gun is having.
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About halfway down the page under "Standard Features": http://www.benelliusa.com/legacy-sport-and-sport-ii-shotguns
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I'm a Brenneke fan, for whatever that's worth. Just buy 2 or 3 boxes a month. In no time you'll have a good stockpile. I dislike shooting slugs anyway so I fire off a few rounds a year just to make sure I remember how it kicks my ass. Buy a couple more boxes and I still have plenty for the coming of the Mongol Hordes. Or whatever.
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Are you sure the A, C & Z shims have the protrusions or do they have holes? If that's the case you may have a mix of different gun's shims. Did you buy it new or used?
The DX shim is for buttstock cast for a right-handed shooter. It goes up against the receiver first. The A, etc., are for adjusting the height of the stock relative to the receiver. You don't have to use those shims. The shims work in concert with the metal plate inside the buttstock. They are paired using the letters. You'll find an explanation of the different shims in the Owner's Manual. If you don't have an OM you can download one: http://www.benelliusa.com/sites/default/files/originals/product-manuals/sbe_ii.pdf
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As to finding barrels, good luck with that. They show up on GunBroker and Ebay occasionally (there's one there now). Finding them reasonably priced? Yeah, well. . . The one on Ebay right now has a decent price. Someone replaced the fixed sight with an adjustable sight.
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Yes it can be done. The barrel swap is no problem. The problem will arise with the forearm. An older M1 forearm will not fit a new M2 barrel without modification. The M2 barrel is different in two ways as it relates to the forearm. At the rear of the barrel just forward of the barrel extension (the part that goes inside the receiver) there's a larger reinforcement ring around the circumference of the barrel. Also, the lug of the barrel ring (the ring that goes around the end of the magazine tube) is longer than the M1 lug. You'll have to do one of two things. Either modify the existing forearm to accommodate the differences in the barrels, OR, replace the M1 forearm with the a M2 forearm. Modification is fairly simple. A dremel tool for the rear and a small drill and small/sharp chisel for the front will do it. Replacement can be problematic. There are at least three variations in the diameter of the magazine tube of older M1's. The M2 forearm will not fit on some of the older tubes. There used to be an older thread about the barrel swap here with pics and everything but apparently it's no longer in the archives as that old link goes nowhere. Here's a link to a discussion about the differences in forearms. http://forum.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/29184-Difference-between-early-and-later-m1-forends-Will-later-models-fir-HK-m1S90
If your M1 is one of the newer Benelli imports a M2 forearm may fit. If it's one of the older HK imports (receiver marked with Heckler & Koch, it may. I've got two that did and two that didn't, which required modification of the original forearm.
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If you compare Benelli's Italian and USA websites, the Italian Rafaello looks a lot like the USA's Ethos. The US site doesn't list a "Rafaello". Perhaps the same guns with different names for different markets. As to where they're made, Italy. Are they good? It's a Benelli.
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Go back to the 22 rifle. Had the same exact issues with my dad before he passed. He had always had a Browning Hi Power but that became untenable in terms of manipulation and accuracy. He decided he wanted a Glock but I discouraged it due to his dexterity problems. Went with a Ruger 10-22, 25 round magazine loaded with mini mags, one chambered. All he had to do to get it running was disengage the safety. He was happy as a clam. Still went shooting with me occasionally up to the time he no longer remembered who I was. I removed it from the house but he didn't remember having it anyway. Based on my dad, if yours has dexterity issues, a shotgun, whether pump or semi, has issues of their own with an older gentleman. Recoil, noise, manipulation, all will be problematic. The 22 was our answer anyway. Your mileage may vary. If you're dead set on a shotgun, how about a side-by-side in 20 gauge? In that flavor, the Stoeger Coach Gun is a favorite of mine. Their Condor Outback O/U looks interesting as well although I have no personal experience there. Joe Biden even approves. :-)
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Determine the size and Brownells may have what you need: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/small-hardware/metal-screws/plug-screw-kit-prod792.aspx
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Haven't seen one other than the Hi-Viz. I have one and it's pretty much ineffective. The "dot" is too small to really be seen out on the end of the barrel, regardless of the light level. Personally, if I didn't already have another maker's rail/side saddle on mine, I'd go with the ScalarWorks RMR rail. You have the advantages of a RDS and still have iron sight capability if something goes haywire with the RMR. IMO, it's the best sighting option out there for a defensive/combat shotgun. The RMR isn't sticking six inches above the receiver. It's a tough and very light sight, which is important since the M4 is a heavy sucker to begin with.
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Take a look at this thread. The differences are not only the barrel-ring lug but also in the diameter of the magazine tubes.
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Sounds like the well-known but problematic to fix "Benelli Click". It is not limited to the SBE but basically all the line since they use the same operating system. To check and see, take it out to the range. Before doing anything else, take note of the position of the extractor on the locking head relative to the ejection port. Make sure the locking head has fully rotated into its locked position. Then shoot it until you have that "misfire". Now, again without doing ANYTHING else, look at the position of the extractor on the locking head relative to the ejection port. If the extractor appears to be a bit lower in position than when you made sure the bolt was fully closed, the locking head has not fully rotated. Generally, the Benelli Click occurs when the locking head has not fully rotated into proper position. The bolt appears to be fully closed but the incomplete rotation of the locking head keeps the firing pin from fully striking the primer, hence the click. I've had it with clean guns, dirty guns, new guns and once in a while, one of my older ones. I've fixed the problem in various ways. I've swapped locking heads between a couple of guns and that fixed the problem. I put a different barrel on another one and that fixed it. I bought a used chrome-plated locking head to replace the blued one on another gun and it never did it again. I've got M1 20 gauge that does it occasionally. It will sometimes do it when I'm loading directly into the ejection port and dropping the bolt. I'll take a look and, sure enough, the locking head hasn't fully rotated. Checking it saved me from a couple of "clicks" on SD pheasants. I've never really figured out what the underlying problem is other than the proper interface between the locking head and the barrel extension is critical. Who knows? I've seen high-speed video of a Benelli action in operation and there appears to be a little bolt-bounce at the very end of the cycle. Possibly that bounce is pulling back on the locking head and causing it to rotate slightly back out of position. I liken this to electrical problems on old British cars and motorcycles. A ***** to get an ultimate handle on.
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A little bit of searching will find you here: http://www.avatactical.com/
They're popular with folks on this forum but may not be available at the moment. Check them out.
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No, the shorter barrel will have no effect on the effectiveness of the gun. As you read, shotgun barrel length is more of a personal preference in terms of how the gun handles and points. Personally, I prefer the shorter lengths. For my yearly visit to SD for pheasant hunting, my guns have 21 inch barrels. Kills them just fine. I shoot skeet and sporting clays on a weekly basis with those same guns.
FFT vs. TTI...extended shell carriers
in Benelli
Posted · Edited by truckcop
I've probably got at least 5 thousand rounds through my primary skeet gun, a M1, since installing my TTI carrier. Having just taken a look at it I find no discernible wear nor deformation. As I noted previously, there have been absolutely no feeding issues that could be traced back to the carrier. Regardless of how they form it, treat it, or bless it, it works and that's the bottom line. Based on other FFT products that I've used, I imagine that once their carrier starts shipping, theirs will work just as well.