ATGJDR

I found two more that might be great products. Disotec Extreme Friction Reduction http://www.bluewonder.us/DisotecXFR.html And CorrosionX for Guns. http://www.corrosionx.com/gun_use.html

Benelli USA Wrote me that they do not import the Oil From Italy and stated that any quality synthetic oil would be ok. What do people use on their R1. I have looked into a couple. I'm thinking about the Militec 1 but have read very good and potentialy very bad about it.

I Spoke to CS about this and they no nothing about it. I'm not sure they even read this forum. when you do it by feel do you take it down to contact and then another click. That seems to be about where it was new, for me. CS instisted that there would be no problem just aligning the dots. Thanks for mentioning. [ 04-30-2005, 05:09 AM: Message edited by: ATGJDR ]

"The barrels that we carry as an extra item are the following: .30-06 20" part # 81126 .30-06 22" part # 81127 .300 Win 20" part #81128 .300 Win 24" part #81129 These are MSRP $535.00 They have the corresponding bolt. The oil from Italy we do not import. You can use a light synthetic oil on your firearm. Thanks Customer Service" I gues the rest of the rifle isn't worth much based on the price of the barrel.

Ouch! I noticed after 40 rounds in mine that puting the red dots together didn't seem to be the same place it was when I first experimented with dissasembly. This is one of the questions I asked CS Via their contact engine and never got a response. Is this going to continue to loosen such that I may need to go two clicks beyond. I already cannot shoot mine very accurately. How do I know and is there any company acknowledgement of the issue. One click past red dot seems right at this pont but two might be as well

My wife is after me to go to bed so I will just quickly respond. I cannot slide the piston assembly over the "O" rings. They might be to big or something. I'm concerned about damaging them. Good Night and thanks for all your posts. ATGJDR

Browning is not the same company they used to be. I went with Bernelli, for a reason. My BAR used to jam on the second shot so faithfully I got rid of it.

Tucker I just took mine apart to verify that I wasn't completely baked. On #7 I didn't describe it correctly. I believe there is a cylinder with a gas port that is permanately attached to the barrel with the Barrel Lock Follower Assembly that must be screwed in to align the red dots. Once this is removed and the barrel taken from the receiver, there remains a piston assembly (303W) on mine this gets quite dirty inside after only 40 or so shots. To Get it apart I believe you either must remove the snap wring and or the "O"Rings (302W & 270W) One might also get it apart by removing (295W & 296Wand maybe even 298W) and sliding the assembly apart from the other end. Maybe this is what is more reasonable than trying to go over the "O"Rings. If you can tell what I'm talking about now maybe you can describe how you clean yours. It looks like a potential problem area. So far all I have done is clean what I can reach with a que tip and run some lubricant through it and wipe it up without dissassembling it.

Tucker301; Very nice Idea on the DiamondKote. #7 If my memory serves me correctly there is a lock ring that you need a tool for (that I don't have) dissasembling the piston for cleaning. It seems to me there was enough room to place a couple of tangs on the ring so that no tool would be required. Did I read you correctly you think that there is a SS/Synthetic Combo available?... Thanks for your post will look for the photoshop. & will very seriously consider the DiamondKote I need some answers from the people at MRARMS concerning tolerances etc. $200.00 dollars is very reasonable and if it can withstand what they say sounds better than SS. Is this the material used on the Glock or some other proprietary coteing. Thanks Again; ATGJDR

I think the wood looks very nice I just don't like the weathering of real wood. I have a Ruger Mark II with a laminate stock that is impervious to weather very nice with the stainless. Synthetic is not the only high tech option. But for Benelli the only way to go is with the Comfot Tech and in Synthetic. Black Or Camo.

I agree this borders on Pathetic. they put the darn accessories in the advertisment and them?... well you all know... (Trying to be nice.) on of the reasons I purchased mine was to be able to have one gun for a number of caliber. I would like the 308 & maybe even the 30-06.

I haven't had mine very long (30 days). I wanted it bad enough to spend the money even though it didn't have all weather charictoristics. so here goes. 1. Same gun only with Stainless components. 2. A BOSS Type Weighted muzzle break for 30-06 & up. 3. Comfort Tech stock. 4. Synthetic Cammo Stock and Forarm. 5. More readily available accessories. 6. Swing door for Magazine. 7. Easier dissasembly of the cylinder. Ie. No tool needed. 8. Standard during purchase custom fitting, with all the available optional shim and recoil pad lengths. 9. Adjustable trigger similar to Savage. This would be sweet. even if it cost 6-8 hundred more I would Trade mine for it.

Based on what I see at ( www.ramlinestocks.com ) Benelli is not even on their list. To bad it would be a perfect addition to mine also

Phenom 101 I'm impressed that you even tried adjusting for a closer tolerance in a gas operated rifle. I have Stoney Points OAL gauge ( for now only the streight one) but would never have tried to use one for a semi auto. I suppose as long as everything fits. And you can prove a few shots and then be consistent with the reloads there's no reason why one cannot. Your Jaming could have been slop in the bullet to neck tolerance. I read in Lee's manual that one should crimp the neck for semi autos due to the cycleing stress.

Thanks Tucker I was concerned about the type due to the manuals insistance that no other type of oil be used. I guess I was believing that it was some sort of specific weight or maybe a synthetic or something. I will check out phenom 101's posts Thanks.