DuckGoosePhesantDoveNdQuai

Ejection port? That is on the left as well; hence you could probably slide a right-hand bolt in the left-hand model, but wouldn't be able to insert the bolt puller and might have a few problems with spent shell ejection. However, if you change the barrel, the stock, then the bolt, then yes, in theory you could change the left-hand to a right-hand. Just curious, do the shims in the SBE allow adjustment for left-hand cast?

What chokes come with that? Case? Sling? Does it have shims for left-hand cast? Why are you selling it? What condition is it in?

OK, first I'll admit this is purly Operator Error. I "switched modes" from duck hunting (there were none flying) to go walk a field for pheasant. When reloading with pheasant shells I just opend the bolt by hand, dropped in a shell and let it slide closed. It didn't make that final "rotation" at the end, so five minutes later when the rooster flushed three feet in front of my nose, no boom! Be honest -- anyone else lost a bird to this problem? I've seen it documented on an OLN program once too. Same issue. Bolt not fully closed. Rare duck got away. I think it was Todd Helton hunting on Chesapeak Bay.

Does the M4 come with the adjustment shims for cast on? If so, I'd take the time to put them in for left hand cast ("on"). I know the Beretta guns have the shims for this adjustment, but my Benelli M1 Field only had drop adjustment. I found some other shims that I had to drill out a bit to get to fit around the M1 spring tube that goes down into the stock. It made a difference for me. Perhaps you are used to shooting right hand cast guns left-handed, but that is difficult at best. If your sight line is not right down the rib, well you'll be off. Your eye is the rear sight after all. Unless you've shot enough to shoot from the hip of course!

I have an M1 Super 90 in left hand camo. It now cycles all loads well. At first it had trouble with some "low recoil" loads. They even state that in the manual. The trick is to shoot some heavy loads through it to help break it in. Also, I found that the "Recoil Reducer" they sell for it adds weight. I took that out once I got used to the kick. I think that helps to not have it in for light loads. That attaches on the inside of the stock. Take off the pad to see if there is one. I've also had that gun completly apart since I went swimming with it after falling through the ice on the South Platte. As I put it back together I cleaned every piece of course. I used some Rem Dry Lube on all the moving parts. That stuff works great becuse it reduces friction, yet isn't wet; therefore, doesn't attact dirt. I found out Gunk makes a dry lube as well that costs less. So, try shooting a box of turkey or goose loads through it, and clean all the oil off and use dry lube. Tell me if it won't cycle low dram loads after that.